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8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Official owners thread for the LG CineBeam HU810PW/AU810PB, MSRP's of $2,999 and $3,999.

Note: Having owned this PJ for almost a year I would have to say think long and hard before purchasing.

LG simply doesn't support this product and has not released a firmware update of any kind since launch. Customer support for issues is terrible.

HDR and Tone Mapping are not working properly with HDR being way too dark making many scenes unwatchable. LG doesn't care. The PJ also can't properly do 24p causing judder which you may or may not be susceptible to. Likely also an easy fix via firmware.

Out of the box this beamer is so blue it is ridiculous, in any mode, and not fixable without calibration of white points. Believe the native white point is closer to D93k than D65k.

SDR can be really, really good in this PJ once calibrated but it is not for the faint of heart. But once calibrated SDR looks phenomenal.

HDR can be made to be pretty decent using Calman Autocal, though for this PJ Portrait barely supports it and good luck getting answers to questions on it. Plus to get it decent you effectively have to stop using DTM which was a huge selling point of this PJ and works really well to not clip/crush highlights, but crushed shadow detail severely as a result. Pretty easy to fix by LG by incorporating a slider that adjusts the low end of the EOTF curve, but again LG has no interest in supporting this PJ.

Now, if you have a MadVR setup, a meter, and Calman for Home LG, this PJ can shine. Or, if you don't care about reference and just that your picture "pops" or don't really care about HDR, this PJ may also be fine for you.


HDFury thread Dedicated to this LG: LGHU/AU810P and HDFURY for Dolby Vision LLDV

Calman for Home LG dedicated thread for this PJ: LG Projector HU810/AU810 Calibration discussion (Calman...

@Mark Henninger overview of the HU810PW

LG is on a roll when it comes to releasing new 4K DLP laser projectors. The company has announced the CineBeam HU810P, which will be exhibited virtually at IFA 2020. This projector is aimed at the home entertainment market and LG states it will include an Iris mode that has presents for Bright Room Mode and Dark Room Mode with automatic room brightness detection. The company says this projector can even hold its own in a dedicated home theater.

View attachment 3089474

The light source is a dual laser design (R/B) with a 20,000 hour rated lifespan. This LG is spec'd at 2700 ANSI lumens and Dynamic Contast and Dynamic Tone Mapping are on the feature list. One interesting capability is Auto Calibration II software, which LG says gives "results that were previously only possible with professional picture calibration".

An important capability for a home theater projector is lens shift and zoom, which allow you to match the projector image to the screen without scaling and digital keystone. The HU810 has a 1.6X zoom lens that offers vertical +/- 55%, horizontal +/- 22% shift.

This projector supports WiSA for reliable low-latency uncompressed surround-sound. It also has smart features built-in so it can stream on its own.

“Our new CineBeam projector performs equally well with bright or dark scenes, elevating picture quality and enhancing the viewing experience to a whole new level,” said Jang Ik-hwan, senior vice president and head of the IT business unit of LG Electronics Business Solutions Company. “There is currently no other product like it on the market today, a demonstration of how LG continues to deliver innovation that improve lives.”

Key Specifications

Projection SystemDLP
Native Resolution4K UHD (3,840 x 2,160)
HDRHDR10, HLG, Dynamic Tone Mapping
Light Source TypeDual Laser (R/B)
Light Source Life Time (High Brightness)20,000 hours
Brightness2,700 ANSI Lumens
Contrast Ratio (Full On / Full Off)1,000,000:1
Noise (Typical)(High / Mid / Low) 30 / 28 / 26 dB
Lens ShiftVertical + - 55%, Horizontal + - 22%
Zoomx 1.6
Screen Size40-300 inches
Throw Ratio1.3 - 2.08
Speaker Output5W + 5W Stereo
WiSA ReadyYes
Dolby ATMOS CompatibleYes
Net Size (W x D x H)337 x 410 x 145mm
HDMI1 HDMI 2.1 / 2 HDMI 2.0
USB Type-A2 USB 2.0
PlatformwebOS 5.0

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The CineBeam AU810PB model comes in black instead of white, and adds, as per Projector Central:

Of the two, only the AU810PB comes WiSA ready; as with compatible LG TVs, plugging in a third-party WiSA transmitter to one of the projector's USB ports allows it to throw up to 5.1-channel audio wirelessly via the high-resolution WiSA standard to compatible powered speakers. It also adds an auto-calibration function compatible with some versions of the popular Calman calibration software from Portrait Displays, similar to what's offered on LG's better panel televisions. Beyond this, the AU810PB comes with some extra control options: an RS-232C port, a 12V trigger jack, and IP control via its wired RJ45 network connection. It also boasts a two-year parts/labor warranty vs. the one-year warranty offered on the HU810PW. We've tagged our review under the HU810PW banner on the thinking that most readers are interested in this lower-priced model, but you can assume my comments apply to both models except where noted.
Current Reveiws:

AVS - Mark Henninger:

Projector Central:

Projector Reviews:


Note, CNET's black level/contrast claims seems to be an average of the unit and no where near indicative of this units capabilities, see comment in this review:


Do you have any thoughts on the recently released cnet review? Author stated contrast is quite bad and image looks washed out compared to even the UHD30, not a projector known for contrast.

Well depends on what mode you are using the projector in. Cinema calibrated or bright? The thing you have to keep in mind is that this projector does not have 1 contrast setting (unlike all other projectors). Each iris level has a different contrast setting. Usually higher iris = lower contrast.

CNET author is using bright mode for their contrast measurement and analysis - which isn't really fair. Note their measurement for blacks is 0.418. If you look at our table, this roughly corresponds to our measurement of 0.370 on bright mode and a contrast of 554.
Post calibration and in cinema mode contrast increases to 3450 which is excellent for a 150 inch image. The reason why they have a worse black level in the same bright mode is because they used a 102 inch screen (while we used a 150 inch) which will once again make the blacks worse (since this is a 2700 lumen projector and the closer and smaller the screen, the brighter the light leakage). The nits of this projector can easily support a screen of up to 300 inch - at which point blacks should be amazing.

Secondly, the CNET author is also mistaken in the "Black Level" setting. For some reason LG has named that inaccurately and it actually corresponds to HDMI Full Range or Limited Range (0-255 or 16-235) and has nothing to do with brightness/contrast. It should always be set to AUTO. LOW if you are using YCBCR or Limited RGB and HIGH if you are using Full Range / Studio RGB. If you accidentally set the wrong setting thinking this is about brightness/contrasts as the LG description says - your blacks will either get completely crushed (lowering contrast) or get washed out (lowering contrast).

All that said, the projector does not have the best black levels in a DLP (which would be the HT5550) because of the lack of a dynamic iris. Even the BenQ HT 3550 has better blacks due to the presence of a dynamic iris. But LG does have the most color lumens and the brightest picture with great calibrated contrast and that is just as important a metric as black levels.

TLDR: It beats the UHD30 in calibrated mode quite easily but it does not beat the Sony VPL-VW350ES. If you want great black levels, do not get this, get the HT 5550 (in the same price range). If you want a TV-like picture with the best highlight performance that will blow you away - then feel free to get this. You can also fix the black light bleed using a dark or negative gain fabric without compromising the highlight performance.
Tear Down:

Sound and Vision

Video Reviews:

Chris Majestic (compares it at a high level to his Epson UB5050)
PJ Central
Ekki Schmitt [select english translation]

and his 1.5 hour seminar on the LG


8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Pro's of this unit:

  • Rated for 2,700 ANSI lumens, gets plenty bright!
  • Adjustable/mechanical Iris, so can also get fairly black with pretty good contrast
  • DTM/HDR, Frame-by-frame dynamic tone-mapping
  • Laser lamp life of 20,000 hours
  • Dual-laser configuration with red and blue lasers plus a phosphor wheel
  • DCI P3 up to 97%
  • Does not need/use a color filter
  • HDMI 2.1 for eARC (limited to 24 Gbps, supports uncompressed 4K/60 up to 12-bit color depth)
  • Supports Filmmaker Mode (recognize the flag in compatible content that tells the projector to turn off frame interpolation and other default processing)
  • Full off to on in about 12-13 seconds

Cons/Known weaknesses/issues with unit:

Pre-Calibration Greyscale tracks horribly:

If you look at the S&V test bench results, you'll notice just how blue of a tint this PJ seems to come with from the factory. Mine (and others) is even worse. Setting the Iris below 5 while it improves "blacks", causes blue to shoot through the roof even more.

Further, calibrating it out isn't that simple as 2-pt does a good job at IRIS around 7 to 10, but struggles as the Iris dips below that. Believe you need Autocal (and hope it actually works in your case ... mine and others is no longer working) to rewrite the LUT.

Manual Focus and Lens shift levers:
- Unit comes with manual focus and manual lens shift levers, so no lens memory, and it can be a pain to focus the unit properly on your own without some sort of inexpensive spotting scope device such as this (props to @DunMunro)

Vertical Lens Shift:
Manufacture claims of +/- 60% vertical shift may be a bit stretched. Here is my unit mounted upside down ~6" from the ceiling, and the max up and down shifts I originally managed.

Downward (well upward I guess since I have the unit upside down):


As opposed to the max adjustment upward.


In the above photos, the unit was mounted 6" from the top of the ceiling, lens was 15 feet away from the wall, and the image itself started 14" down from the top of the ceiling.

Thanks to user @dkwong for this method of awkwardly adjusting the lens mechanism to get more vertical shift:

Let me try to recap what I did to fix my vertical lens shift range into more succinct steps:

1. Set the horizontal lens shift as close to center as you can.
2. Turn the vertical lens shift dial up and down a few times while watching the lens to get a feel for how the lens assembly moves. It moves, but not a whole lot.
3. Turn the vertical lens shift dial all the way up until it clicks. Maybe make a note of where the projected image right now is on the screen to compare with later.
4. While lightly pushing up on the lens assembly (where the red arrow points below), turn the vertical lens shift dial up again and let it click a few times. You don't need to push very hard, just enough to get it to move slightly back into position when the dial clicks.
5. That's it. Hopefully this will have given you more vertical lens shift range than where it was at step 3.

View attachment 3126408
After adjusting in the manner above, I managed to pull the image down about 8 more inches:

Light Leakage when mounted on a ceiling and 3D lens cover fix:
As noticed by the PJ Central review and many users, when mounted on a ceiling the unit has some light leakage which is pretty annoying for a unit of this cost. Here it is on my ceiling:


This can be easily fixed applying some sort of tape on the unit, albeit this looks a bit ghetto:


Or big shout out to @robnota who created a 3D lens that can be printed on a 3D printer for cheap (I found a local guy on Kijiji who charged me CAD$3, others have used etsy):

Here is mine:


End result:


Light White Border around image:
Per @DunMunro
I don't fully understand why the light border is present (it might have to do with heat dissipation) , but it exists on all the .47in DLP DMDs. You can purchase rolls of black masking material to absorb the light projected past your screen.
Actually you calculate pixels per inch by dividing displayed screen width by displayed pixels or 105/1920. Then multiply the result by 20 to get the light border width. 105/1920 = 0546875 x (20) = 1.09375in.
Laser Speckle/Tested screens:
Many have noticed laser speckle on this unit, which isn't uncommon as I understand it of these 0.47 based laser units, but seems pretty prevalent with the LG.

A couple users in particular had tested across multiple screen fabrics, when I locate those I can add to this section. For the most part, high gain silver screens, high contrast screens, ALR screens can be fairly bad, while white screens with 1.1/1.0 gains are decent.

Known Screens that cause lots of speckle to avoid:
EluneVision Aurora ALR (terrible)
EluneVision Normal Gain 1.0 non-ALR/CLR
Elite Cinema Grey 3D/5D (terrible)
Silver Ticket High Contrast Grey(pretty much all ST's except for the ones noted below)
Seymour AV Matinee Black Wide

Screens that do a good job suppressing Speckle:
DA-Lite DA-Snap 0.9 Pro HD grey screen (almost impercetible)
Qualgear 0.9 Grey Screen, shows a bit of speckle
Qualgear Acoustic
Silver Ticket Grey Screen 1.0 gain black backed, shows a bit of speckle
Silver Ticket WVS Acoustic, zero speckle
Silver Ticket Matte white (almost imperceptible)

Got some more screen samples to test out. Ordered the 5 pack from Silverticket and put them up side by side from the acoustic woven, to matte white, matte grey, silver and high contrast.

I can confirm there is ZERO sparkle on the acoustic woven material and I do not notice the contours of the fabric unless I get really close to the screen.

So for those that are looking for an AT Screen, this may be a great option. XY Screens also offers a similar fabric to Silverticket (maybe the same) called Soundmax 4 which is 4K rated

The matte white has very minimal and the matte grey just slightly, but both would be pretty hard to notice unless close and looking for it

The silver and the high contrast both showed the sparkle very noticeably.

So the dilemma is either live with my ALR screen and get good blacks and better lights on viewing but live with the sparkle

Or go with with woven acoustic and get zero sparkle (or matte white with little , but washed out colors with ambient light

Or go the spandex route, or grey matte and get a compromise between the two

Or spend $$$$ to get a Darkstar 9, DNP Supernova 08-85 or Da-Lite Parallax Pure 0.8 and get the best of both worlds

I'll keep testing things out as the search for the PERFECT screen (for me) is a fun task and hoping to help those here as well
12ft from screen and it's noticeable, just was tough to see it from a camera pov.

I did some minor experimentation last night and took my Cinegrey 3d sample and put a couple small coats of white spray paint on it.

To my pleasant surprise the sparkling was reduced dramatically.

My next step will test out how the Silver Fire paint mix does with the projector. Will test out v3-v5 versions for best ambient light control

I did a silver fire light fusion screen years ago which gave great results, so I may take the plunge and do a paint job over my xyscreen if I'm happy with the Silverfire results.


Silver Ticket Screen test by @Anf774 :

Alright, so I finally got the sample pack from Silver Ticket. This contains: Gray (my original screen that was sparkly), Silver, High Contrast, WAB ( acoustic screen) and White. I pined all materials against my white wall and tested them out. When projecting a static red image, the Gray: showed sparkles, the Silver: even more sparkles, the High Contrast: Most sparkles (worst), The WAB: no sparkles and White: some sparkles but around 50- 70% better then the gray, silver, high contrast. Then I put up a white image (using the web browser and going to Google.com) on the projector and ran the projector cursor(cursor is red) through all the materials and found the same to be true. I tried my best to capture on video, though it's hard to do and you will have to take my own perception of what I observed. I did pull in a friend to confirm what my eyes were seeing.

In order of the best (lowest amount of sparkle) to the worst ( highest amount of sparkles)
1: WAB (best, could not see sparkles)
2: White (really good, though some sparkle)
3: Gray (Sparkles visible)
4: Silver (Sparkles badly visible)
5: High Contrast (worst, the most sparkles)

Projector: LG AU810PB
Distance from projector to screen/wall ( 9 feet)
Zoom: as wide as possible to obtain around 100 inches

Conclusion: If you order a screen from Silver Ticket for this projector: I would recommend the WAB material for the least amount of sparkles and the White material as it does a good job at reducing the sparkles. I would definitely stay away from the Gray, Silver, High Contrast.

I was not able to test there ambient light rejection materials.

I hope this helps anyone that was in my position as the sparkles were driving me crazy. Thanks everyone for supporting on this forum. Hope you enjoy your projectors!!

Red cursor test

Red cursor test (zoomed in)

View attachment 3118487

View attachment 3118488

View attachment 3118489

View attachment 3118490
Audio lag over Bluetooth and onboard apps:
I think I've found an issue that we might want to put in the second post. Using the built-in apps and a bluetooth connection for audio results in audio lag. I tested both the onboard YouTube and Disney+ apps. When connected over bluetooth, there is an obvious audio lag, even with the AV Sync Adjustment maxed out. Using the onboard speaker results in no lag. However, when I use the same apps on my Roku Premiere connected to HDMI 1, there is no audio lag using either the bluetooth connection or the onboard speaker. It looks like this issue is limited to just the onboard apps and bluetooth audio.
Lack of native 24fps support:
I've noticed a few posts here discussing odd motion with this projector and I've nailed down the problem. Unfortunately, it appears that 24p sources are output at 60hz through forced 3:2 pulldown. RTings has a great test video to check for this:

To check, you play the test video back with 24hz output set. Then you take a photo with a 1 second long exposure with the video running. If the video is correctly played back at an interval of 24fps, it should look like this (my JVC DLA-NX9):

View attachment 3112372

And if 3:2 pulldown is used (LG AU810P):

View attachment 3112374

I'm going to email my contact at LG and see if they can issue some sort of firmware update to fix this. If this is being branded as a home theater projector and cannot do 24p motion correctly, that's a big problem. I'm constantly seeing judder issues and they can be a bit distracting.
Oh, also there is no 3D on this unit. Not a weakness or con per se, but just something to be aware of.

Internal Apps Issues
Netflix is finally available in the LG store for those that use the smart tv features.

Internal apps appear to be less focused:

Pulled up some 4K test patterns on YouTube and I can definitely tell a difference. The first one is from the onboard app and the second one is from my Roku.


8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Some user comparisons:

I have both projectors in two different theater room setups. You’ll be happy with either. 5050 is more polished with better build quality. LG is brighter with somewhat better HDR handling. Not as polished a package. Candidly, the laser is nice but lamps really aren’t that big a deal.

Were it me and I was deciding for that room, it would come down to my screen size. Anything over 135” with an AT screen I would go with the LG for brightness. 135” or lower is a pick your favor. My 5050 is used with a 150” SeymourAV AT screen. It looks good, but I run it on bright mode with Iris fully open and can’t use the color filter. Extra brightness headroom at that size would be a plus (again though you won’t go wrong either way).
Just to nit pick, it’s not native 4K. Shows all 8.3mil pixels but it can’t be called native.

I own a 5050 but if I was picking a projector for a non treated room I’d pick the HU810P and a grey or ALR screen and call it a day.
There’s been some in depth comparisons of the HT5550 and 5050 so that’s well known at this point. The 5050 vs LG seem pretty straight forward based on early reviews of the LG. The LG has great color without a filter, as bright, has DTM, and of course the laser. The Epson has better black levels and low level contrast, 3D and way better flexibility due to its motorized lens. We need more direct comparisons but I’d be surprised if much changes. Net net, Epson has better black levels and the LG has better HDR with DTM. Projector Central essentially does a comparison of these two in their review of the LG: LG CineBeam HU810PW Laser Projector Review

I think the HT5550 has really lost any reason to buy it other than possibly it’s a bit cheaper. I just don’t see a reason to buy it over the LG or Epson. Maybe someone else has a reason
There was a great post early on in the big Mark preview thread about the pro's and con's of this unit, I will post a link to it here if I find it.

8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
User suggested settings for non calibrated projectors:

March 12 2022:

Here is my new settings for those who want to eliminate the weird color problem.
I would start with iris settings from 6 to 4 depending on your environment.
Gamma 2.4 as it deepens the picture contrast and black level. Then make your contrast and brightness adjustments.
Now I use cinema, Filmmaker and expert dark room for my settings.
Color I adjust accordingly not to exceed 70.
Now let's tackle that white balance settings.
These settings will be for both high and low in the 2 point adjustment.
Red -20
Green -20
Blue -50
Now go to color management and adjust the color blue down to - 20 for the first option then for lumance take it to -15.
This should get you in a very good place as far as color and contrast.
Hope this helps.

8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)

Suggested settings:

The LG HU810PW and AU810PB are not factory calibrated and the image will have a strong green cast that will need to be calibrated away before the projector can be used. That said, calibrating away the green cast for close-to-perfect calibration is trivial and does not require any advanced tools. In our testing, setting the color temperature to warm and setting green high and low points in the white balance setting (Expert Dark Mode) to -27 got rid of the green cast. Our preferred settings were using an iris value of 5, contrast at 100, color at 80, sharpness 0, tint 0, brightness 50, all image corrections and noise reductions OFF, adaptive contrast set to high, dynamic contrast off, color gamut auto and an input source of YCBCR 4:2:2 at 12 bit (+ gamma correction against a reference scale).

For deepest blacks (at the cost of reduced highlight performance), you can retain the settings above but change the iris value to 0. Similarly for TV-like viewing, you can change gamma to 1.9 (from 2.2), iris value to 9, dynamic contrast to high.
Note: Personally I didn't notice a strong green tinge, and others reported the same, so not sure I would bother with the -27 on green unless your unit has this.
How to focus the unit
TL;DR summary: very slightly out of focus, also check projector alignment

The 1080p image squares are 40 pixels and the 4k image squares are 80 pixels. All lines are 1 pixel thick in both. I'm not sure what the LG photo viewer does to the image, but I set sharpness to 0, turn off Super Resolution, etc.

Your smear looks 0.75-1 pixel--no gap between the green line and main line. You might tweak focus a little better with a 2nd person looking close at the left side. It takes a very tiny adjustment at that point.

Make sure the alignment is perfect. The lines at all 4 edges should be parallel to the screen border. If the top/bottom lines are angled (trapezoid), rotate the projector right/left until those lines are parallel then use horizontal shift to center the image. If the far left/right lines are angled (trapezoid), tilt the projector up/down until those lines are parallel then use vertical shift to center the image.
Dot pattern files for focusing located here:
Pattern Files

Put a printed "Eye" chart on the screen (e.g., the ones with the letters), got up on a ladder and focused the scope onto the smallest letters of the eye chart until it was crystal clear.

Then put up a 100% white field, and used the mechanical control while viewing through the scope until I could see the individual pixels "within" the white field. Might even want to use look at the white paper you printed the eye chart on, in case your screen has any texture to it which may make the pixels less visible. E.g. See pixels here.


Thanks @DunMunro for the scope suggestion!

HDFury Vertex2 Discussion/Setup
@pbc This 'how-to' is worth a sticky at the beginning of the thread - thanks to all the groundbreaking work @wmccann has done. This 'hack' is typically done by the high-end Sony and JVC projector folks and there is a dedicated thread on the topic. The HDFury DV exploit is more advanced that just an EDID change as I think they do some DV/HDR header manipulation as well.

Here is my attempt at adding some value to the how-to guide:

1) Hack the settings to turn on Auto Cal
2) spend $145 for Calman
3) spend $260 for a X-rite i1 Pro meter
4) Calibrate your screen and remember to record High and low Nits levels
5) purchase a HDFury Diva/Virtex2/Maestro and follow the Vollans guide for HDFury settings for DV
For more background reading on HDFury, what devices send LLDV and videos on how it can help LLDV to HDR
6) Purchase an optical HDMI cable (if over 2M) as the amount of data increases dramatically!
Dolby Vision requires a full 18Gbps bandwidth. Best to use a Certified Premium or Ultra cable to be sure.
7) configure the EDID to match your projector settings
8) Enjoy Dolby Vision quality on a non Dolby Visio set

Hope this helps folks with more specifics.
Pretty sure you need a Shield Pro from 2019 to output LLDV. There are a few other devices that do it as well as per the HDfury site:

List of sources capable of LLDV output for any DV content:
– Sony Players (UBP-X700, UBP-X800/M2, UBP-X1100ES …)
– Apple TV 4K
– Shield Pro
– Xbox One X/S
– Panasonic UB820/UB9000
– Oppo 203/205
– Fire Stick/Fire Cube (Netflix/ATV App)
– Chromecast (Netflix)

List of sources capable of LLDV output for DV, HDR10 and SDR content:
– Oppo203/205
– Apple TV 4K
– Sony UBP-X700, UBP-X800/M2
Vollan's Guide:

I used to use the low max luminance with hdfury like you get from your projector but then I saw this guide while reading about possible new projectors for me like this LG or the new 3 laser sammie lsp9t. It works so well now especially for viewing the dark scenes. It also looks really really good at mapping the super bright highlights like in the meg scene that is mentioned.


8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BTW, I posted in this forum (> $3,000) as that was where Mark's original preview was posted. Even though it likely belongs in the < $3k forum? Hard to say as the PJ has both a $2,999 MSRP and the higher MSRP for the non consumer targeted unit.

If so, maybe a mod can move the thread.

8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I believe BBSpills did most of the material testing for the screens and a lot of his posts in that thread dealt with which did best with the red sparkles.
Thanks... Added.

439 Posts
Yeah, wish you had posted it in the other forum for the rest of us :D Thanks for this, though. At least, I won't have to see Mark's article every time I turn the page. 20 years at AVS but have never seen such a terrible UX decision. Wish it could be turned off!

8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, wish you had posted it in the other forum for the rest of us :D Thanks for this, though. At least, I won't have to see Mark's article every time I turn the page. 20 years at AVS but have never seen such a terrible UX decision. Wish it could be turned off!
The under $3k forum you mean? I can ask a mod to move this if folks feel it is better suited there.

8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thankfully Mike Lang moved it. Makes more sense to be in this forum given street prices of the consumer unit.

19 Posts
edit: I realized I could have worded this better and not so combative so I apologize.

Thanks for this! Can we please keep all of the daily updates on shipping statuses out of this thread? If you have something relevant to the projector by all means post, but it makes it tough to find things when there is so much fluff.

8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think you should also add how it handles 24p. Not well. It fails all tests. Along with high sync delays. I had some that exceeded 150ms
Thanks, just seeing that now, obviously an issue. Wonder if it can be fixed via firmware. I can contact LG as well, but I'm sure they'd ask to see actual content with judder. Is this something that can only be shown with a 24p bluray?

8,272 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Curious about the 1.5" light border around the image. If the screen is say a couple of inches away from the wall, does that "reduce" the amount of border seen on the wall behind the screen?

Just deciding what screen to buy, and originally wanted a borderless screen. But since that's not an option, wondering if a 0.5 - 1" border like on some of the nano edge screens would still work since the screen is mounted slightly away from the wall and maybe that depth from the wall eats up some of the projected light border?

264 Posts
Thanks, just seeing that now, obviously an issue. Wonder if it can be fixed via firmware. I can contact LG as well, but I'm sure they'd ask to see actual content with judder. Is this something that can only be shown with a 24p bluray?
I think they can fix both issues with firmware. I used the Spears and Munsil UHD calibration disc to see the problem. The big question is will they fix it.
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