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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnpapa /forum/post/20423451


just bought a lg 42 lk tv help did i make the right desions

Get a magnifying glass and check the pixel pattern (loupe test) and see if the pixels are chevron-shaped (
 

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UPDATE: The below calibration settings are no longer valid because it was calibrated with my inaccurate old Spyder2. I've since purchased a new X-Rite Eye-One Display LT, which has shown much more accurate result so far. Stay tuned and I'll have a the new calibrated settings posted soon.


I've recalibrated another TV, LG 32LD450, using the 75% saturation method and got great results.


See here for djams' suggestion
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post20447759


And here to see my result.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20453082



Purchased a 42LK450 a few days ago from Best Buy. It was the CUSY (S-IPS) model.


I just spent the last 4 hours calibrating this TV for near-perfect HDTV - REC 709 standard. I used a Spyder2 and Colorimetre HCFR software.


For those you who want to learn to do this yourself, this is the guide I used.
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457


I've attached my Colorimetre HCFR file for your reference.
Near-Perfect LG 42LK450 calibration settings and profile.chc.zip


My goal was to achieve the following

=======================

Accurate luminance curve

Accurate Color Gamut

Gamma: 2.2

Color Temp: 6500K

White Level: 125 cd/m2

1:1 Pixel Mapping


Here's how close I got after calibrating

========================

Very good luminance curve

Very good color gamut

Gamma: 2.16

Color Temp: 6500 +/- 150 from IRE 20 and up

White Level: 125.61 cd/m2

1:1 Pixel Mapping with Just Scan


Of course, none of this means anything unless I share with you the settings I used to achieve this. Before I do so, let me just tell you, movies look amazing after calibration.


*******************************************


Make: LG

Model: 42LK450

Product Code: 42LK450-UB.CUSY-LH

Panel Type: S-IPS


Settings

=======

Input Label: Use anything other than PC

- NOTE: Using PC as the input label locks out the Color Management System menu under expert controls, which we need to correct the color gamut.

- NOTE2: You can definitely still connect a PC via HDMI to this TV. Just don't use the "PC" input label if you care for these settings.


Picture

-----------

Aspect Ratio: Just Scan (NOTE: Just Scan achieves 1:1 pixel mapping. If you need other aspect ratio, feel free to do so, but my H and V Sharpness settings are for 1:1 Pixel Mapping)

Energy Saving: Off

Picture Mode: isf Expert 1 or 2

Backlight: 35

Contrast: 70

Brightness: 75

H Sharpness: 28 (NOTE: Only applicable if you use Just Scan aspect ratio)

V Sharpness: 53 (NOTE: Only applicable if you use Just Scan aspect ratio)

Color: 50

Tint: 0


Expert Controls

------------------------

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Noise Reduction: Off

Digital Noise Reduction: Off

Black Level: Low

Real Cinema: Off (60Hz)

Color Gamut: SMPTE

Edge Enhancer: Off

xvYCC: Auto

Expert Pattern: Off

Color Filter: Off

Color Temperature: Warm

Gamma: 2.4 (NOTE: LG's default 2.2 is off with other settings. I'm using 2.4 to compensate for those other settings. Final result is a gamma of 2.16)

Method: 2 Points

Pattern: Outer

Red Contrast: 2

Green Contrast: -1

Blue Contrast: 6

Red Brightness: 0

Green Brightness: 0

Blue Brightness: 3


Color Management System

------------------------------------------

Red Color: -9

Red Tint: 0

Green Color: -10

Green Tint: 0

Blue Color: 0

Blue Tint: 0

Yellow Color: -10

Yellow Tint: 0

Cyan Color: 0

Cyan Tint: 2

Magenta Color: 0

Magenta Tint: -1

 

Near-Perfect LG 42LK450 calibration settings and profile.chc.zip 2.0791015625k . file
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo /forum/post/20424859


Purchased a 42LK450 a few days ago from Best Buy. It was the CUSY (S-IPS) model.


I just spent the last 4 hours calibrating this TV for near-perfect HDTV - REC 709 standard. I used a Spyder2 and Colorimetre HCFR software.


For those you who want to learn to do this yourself, this is the guide I used.
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457


I've attached my Colorimetre HCFR file for your reference.
Near-Perfect LG 42LK450 calibration settings and profile.chc.zip


My goal was to achieve the following

=======================

Accurate luminance curve

Accurate Color Gamut

Gamma: 2.2

Color Temp: 6500K

White Level: 125 cd/m2

1:1 Pixel Mapping


Here's how close I got after calibrating

========================

Very good luminance curve

Very good color gamut

Gamma: 2.16

Color Temp: 6500 +/- 150 from IRE 20 and up

White Level: 125.61 cd/m2

1:1 Pixel Mapping with Just Scan


Of course, none of this means anything unless I share with you the settings I used to achieve this. Before I do so, let me just tell you, movies look amazing after calibration.


*******************************************


Make: LG

Model: 42LK450

Product Code: 42LK450-UB.CUSY-LH

Panel Type: S-IPS


Settings

=======

Input Label: Use anything other than PC

- NOTE: Using PC as the input label locks out the Color Management System menu under expert controls, which we need to correct the color gamut.

- NOTE2: You can definitely still connect a PC via HDMI to this TV. Just don't use the "PC" input label if you care for these settings.


Picture

-----------

Aspect Ratio: Just Scan (NOTE: Just Scan achieves 1:1 pixel mapping. If you need other aspect ratio, feel free to do so, but my H and V Sharpness settings are for 1:1 Pixel Mapping)

Energy Saving: Off

Picture Mode: isf Expert 1 or 2

Backlight: 35

Contrast: 70

Brightness: 75

H Sharpness: 28 (NOTE: Only applicable if you use Just Scan aspect ratio)

V Sharpness: 53 (NOTE: Only applicable if you use Just Scan aspect ratio)

Color: 50

Tint: 0


Expert Controls

------------------------

Dynamic Contrast: Off

Noise Reduction: Off

Digital Noise Reduction: Off

Black Level: Low

Real Cinema: Off (60Hz)

Color Gamut: SMPTE

Edge Enhancer: Off

xvYCC: Auto

Expert Pattern: Off

Color Filter: Off

Color Temperature: Warm

Gamma: 2.4 (NOTE: LG's default 2.2 is off with other settings. I'm using 2.4 to compensate for those other settings. Final result is a gamma of 2.16)

Method: 2 Points

Pattern: Outer

Red Contrast: 2

Green Contrast: -1

Blue Contrast: 6

Red Brightness: 0

Green Brightness: 0

Blue Brightness: 3


Color Management System

------------------------------------------

Red Color: -9

Red Tint: 0

Green Color: -10

Green Tint: 0

Blue Color: 0

Blue Tint: 0

Yellow Color: -10

Yellow Tint: 0

Cyan Color: 0

Cyan Tint: 2

Magenta Color: 0

Magenta Tint: -1


Interesting. It appears that LG has changed their product coding for the S-IPS panels because I noticed that there isn't a "W" in your product code. I'm assuming you verified the panel type with a magnifying lens. I'm surprised that your Contrast is so low but it appears that you calibrated with a different set of protocols that I used so that probably accounts for the differences. It's amazing how little the CMS changes right out of the box. It just shows how good these sets are. Good job.
 

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@kanedo


I've reviewed your calibration file and I've got some feedback / pointers for you. I own a 47LD520 and calibrate it with an i1display2 meter.


You should set brightness and contrast using the basic patterns on the AVS-HD disc. Brightness is too high and contrast is too low. This is causing you to get a contrast ratio of only 312:1 (see the grayscale measures tab). You should be seeing around ~800:1. It's also probably causing you to have to set 2.4 gamma on the TV to end up near 2.2 measured gamma. AVS-HD patterns are rec709, and you have HCFR set to rec709, so you should set the TV's color gamut to BT-709 instead of SMPTE. This could explain the high red and green deltaE's in the primaries and secondaries measurement tab. Finally, if you switch the TV to 10-point IRE, you will be able to set RGB balance at each IRE level. This really allows you to get the luminance and gamma curves flattened out (and color temp).


The settings available on these TV's are robust enough to get you from "near perfect" to perfect



Edit: Here is a post by Knd that describes how to use the 10-point IRE adjustments on these TV's. I was lost until I came across this. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post18831217 .


I've attached my .chc file for your reference. This is actually my night calibration - brain misfired when naming the file...

 

05-08-2011 DAYTIME CAL TUNEUP.zip 1.0810546875k . file
 

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djams;20426777 I've attached my .chc file for your reference. This is actually my night calibration - brain misfired when naming the file...[/QUOTE said:
djams, is this the same file that you posted sometime ago in our "home" group? I can't seem to be able to open this one (probably operator error). I've been using your daytime one with a few tweaks. My daytime room lighting is probably not as bright as yours so it looks fine day or night, especially with the ambient back light.
 

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Hey Otto - this is the calibration software file. To open it you need to install the (free) Colorimeter HCFR software. This software creates the charts and graphs I've posted in the "home thread".


Edit - I've suspected that a bias light would reduce eye strain in a darker environment, unfortunately this doesn't work in my entertainment center.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by djams /forum/post/20426982


Hey Otto - this is the calibration software file. To open it you need to install the (free) Colorimeter HCFR software. This software creates the charts and graphs I've posted in the "home thread".


Edit - I've suspected that a bias light would reduce eye strain in a darker environment, unfortunately this doesn't work in my entertainment center.

Gotcha. Did you ever post your evening cal in the home group? I am quite pleased with the calibration because it's nice to have just one that seems to work well for all of the inputs and lighting conditions. Yes, the ambient light works wonders. Too bad you can't incorporate that into your entertainment center
I still have plans for the "horsey test" and will post when I do.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot /forum/post/20426088


Interesting. It appears that LG has changed their product coding for the S-IPS panels because I noticed that there isn't a "W" in your product code. I'm assuming you verified the panel type with a magnifying lens. I'm surprised that your Contrast is so low but it appears that you calibrated with a different set of protocols that I used so that probably accounts for the differences. It's amazing how little the CMS changes right out of the box. It just shows how good these sets are. Good job.

Otto, this is indeed an IPS panel. On the back of the TV, you can see through the cracks and see LC-420WUE labeled on the panel.


Apparently, LG has changed their product coding for the LK series.
 

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@djams,


Wow, your profile looked great. I didn't know you can adjust each IRE level individually. I'll definitely give that a shot tonight.


By the way, is your i1 Display 2 consistent? My spyder2 is showing its age and I can't get it to produce a consistent reading every single time. Perhaps that could explain why my curves aren't as close as yours.


Also, could you briefly describe your calibration process? I'm really new at this and could use some pointers as to the tools and strategies for this.


Thanks.
 

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@djams


Could you shed some light on the input lag on your 120Hz 47LD520? Particularly, I'm interested in the input lag on both 60Hz and 120Hz. I was hoping that the input lag on the 120Hz mode is low enough for gaming.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo /forum/post/20427599


Otto, this is indeed an IPS panel. On the back of the TV, you can see through the cracks and see LC-420WUE labeled on the panel.


Apparently, LG has changed their product coding for the LK series.

That's great! I'm old school though so I'd still check out the pixel pattern. With all of the returns last year for the non-S-IPS panels that LG had, it's always best to be 100% sure. It's cheap and easy.


As far as calibrations go, I've found that you can get a really nice picture if you just do the basics and the CMS. However, if you can calibrate the IRE's

(100 - 0) it just gives the CMS a more balanced look. And on my 520, I've also found that using the HDMI input calibration translates well to the OTA-Cable input. That's important for me because I don't have cable or satellite and depend on OTA for my regular viewing (fortunately we get a ton of HD stations where I live). Oh, and let your tv warm up for about 10 minutes or so before calibrating. It sounds odd but a lot of us noticed that there seems to be a warm up period before you get optimal performance.


Happy calibrating and keep us informed on your progress
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot /forum/post/20427782


That's great! I'm old school though so I'd still check out the pixel pattern. With all of the returns last year for the non-S-IPS panels that LG had, it's always best to be 100% sure. It's cheap and easy.


As far as calibrations go, I've found that you can get a really nice picture if you just do the basics and the CMS. However, if you can calibrate the IRE's

(100 - 0) it just gives the CMS a more balanced look. And on my 520, I've also found that using the HDMI input calibration translates well to the OTA-Cable input. That's important for me because I don't have cable or satellite and depend on OTA for my regular viewing (fortunately we get a ton of HD stations where I live). Oh, and let your tv warm up for about 10 minutes or so before calibrating. It sounds odd but a lot of us noticed that there seems to be a warm up period before you get optimal performance.


Happy calibrating and keep us informed on your progress

@Otto


How's the input lag on your 520 for both 60Hz and 120Hz?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo
@Otto


How's the input lag on your 520 for both 60Hz and 120Hz?
I don't game on my 520 sorry
My son just hooks up his MacBookPro with a mini-HDMI cable and plays his games that way using the HDMI3 input and a modified Cinema User setting. No TruMotion. Looks fantastic to me and he hasn't complained at all about lag times. Text is clear as well.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo
@djams


Could you shed some light on the input lag on your 120Hz 47LD520? Particularly, I'm interested in the input lag on both 60Hz and 120Hz. I was hoping that the input lag on the 120Hz mode is low enough for gaming.
Otto asked that I pop in here and comment about your question. Actually, the 120HZ LG LCD panels are always running at 120HZ. Only the 450 and 350 series runs at 60HZ. Also, LCD panel latency is different than input lag such as you may be interested in for gaming. In the XXLD520 and XXLD550 series the INPUT lag was measured by some owners to be between the upper 40ms range to upper 60ms range. I guess someone with an XXLK450 or XXLK520 will need to run an inout lag test to see how they stack up.
 

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This thread got a lot better fast with all this new info



I haven't seen any "W" panels of the xxLK450 and it's been either "D" or "Y". Sadly, every 32 inch I've seen locally have the "D" product code, and so did my Amazon attempt. Plenty of "Y" panels for the 37 inch but that's too big for my desk



My input lag test for the 32LK450 "D" panel was 17-33 ms. My testing method isn't the most accurate (cheap digital camera shots of the TV in clone mode with a Samsung PX2370), but it was good enough for me.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antipodes /forum/post/20429294


This thread got a lot better fast with all this new info



I haven't seen any "W" panels of the xxLK450 and it's been either "D" or "Y". Sadly, every 32 inch I've seen locally have the "D" product code, and so did my Amazon attempt. Plenty of "Y" panels for the 37 inch but that's too big for my desk



My input lag test for the 32LK450 "D" panel was 17-33 ms. My testing method isn't the most accurate (cheap digital camera shots of the TV in clone mode with a Samsung PX2370), but it was good enough for me.

There is a wealth of information from the thread that Phase700B started on the LD series and we are more than happy to share it. It seems that the LK and LD are very similar so hopefully we'll be of some help.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo /forum/post/20427647


@djams,


Wow, your profile looked great. I didn't know you can adjust each IRE level individually. I'll definitely give that a shot tonight.


By the way, is your i1 Display 2 consistent? My spyder2 is showing its age and I can't get it to produce a consistent reading every single time. Perhaps that could explain why my curves aren't as close as yours.


Also, could you briefly describe your calibration process? I'm really new at this and could use some pointers as to the tools and strategies for this.


Thanks.

I am pretty satisfied with the repeatability of my i1Display2 meter. But this is the only meter I've ever had, so I've got nothing to compare it against. To me it performs as I would expect a low cost (relatively speaking) meter to perform.


My calibration process - I should start by saying that I'm very new to calibration as well, but here is a basic overview of how I go about it:


1) Picture reset on the preset you will be calibrating (very important).

2) Turn off all automatic picture enhancers (including motion enhancement)

3) Turn off overscan (or enable 1:1 pixel mapping)

4) Set brightness, contrast, main color/tint and sharpness using AVS-HD709 basic patterns. Our LG's have the built-in blue filter to use for setting the main color and tint controls
Be sure you have the patterns manual for the AVS disc - it does a great job explaining how to use the patterns.

5) Set peak light output. Display a 100% white field pattern from the AVS disc. Adjust backlight until you attain the desired level. The 125cd/m2 value you used is a very reasonable peak light output for a normal viewing environment. My night calibration is at 35ftL (~117cd/m2) and day calibration is 70 ftL (for a very bright room)

6) Calibrate white balance using the 10pt IRE adjustments, and the field grayscale patterns from the AVS disc. I would mention that while the "Calibration for Dummies" guide recommends no adjustment to green, I do not think this applies for our sets. On my set, the only way to attain the correct Y value is to adjust green. So I use the "adjust green as a last resort" approach.

7) Calibrate colors using CMS adjustments using 100% color field patterns from the AVS disc. If you have trouble with the primaries, post back and I can point you to a method to accomplish this using 75% saturations fields instead of 100% color.

8) Reality check the settings using reference material. I can highly recommend Phase700B's "Seabiscuit reference material guide" as one good source for this. You can find it in the XXLD520,XXLD550 owner's thread.
 
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