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I am still waiting for my xRite in order to determine the peak nits of my VW760. It seems that the shipment is delayed quite a bit.

This brings me to a bit more theoretical, more general question:

Let's assume, a given projector has 100 Nits peak brightness (the "true" value). What would be the overall effect of a wrongly set peak nits value within the Envy?
For the assumed 100 Nits projector, what would be the effect, if in the Envy I would wrongly set (because of not knowing it better) the value to e.g. 130 Nits or to 70Nits?

What are the effects of over- or underestimation of the projectors peak nits level?

:unsure:
 

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JVC RS4500 | ST130 G4 135" | MRX 720 | MC303 MC152 | 6.1.4: B&W 802D3, 805D3, 702S2 | 4x15 IB Subs
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I am still waiting for my xRite in order to determine the peak nits of my VW760. It seems that the shipment is delayed quite a bit.

This brings me to a bit more theoretical, more general question:

Let's assume, a given projector has 100 Nits peak brightness (the "true" value). What would be the overall effect of a wrongly set peak nits value within the Envy?
For the assumed 100 Nits projector, what would be the effect, if in the Envy I would wrongly set (because of not knowing it better) the value to e.g. 130 Nits or to 70Nits?

What are the effects of over- or underestimation of the projectors peak nits level?

:unsure:
If you set the ENVY to 130 nits and the display is only 100 nits, the image will be a bit too dark. If you set to 70 and it's 100 nits it will be a bit too light. There is headroom to be in error on this. It's not super critical. Feel free to adjust it to taste, IMO.
 
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... does dialing in a value that is higher than the real value support the HDR effect?
Entering a higher value will lower the tone map target of the general image and give more headroom to HDR highlights - if that's what you mean.
 

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Yes, that is what I mean.

So if my projector is able to do 100 Nits and I set the Envy to 120 Nits, then I will get a slightly darker image in the mid tones but a bit more punch in the highlights.

Thank you!
 

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Yes, that is what I mean.

So if my projector is able to do 100 Nits and I set the Envy to 120 Nits, then I will get a slightly darker image in the mid tones but a bit more punch in the highlights.

Thank you!
Give it a try and see for yourself. Although, I suspect 100 --> 120 nits is possibly not enough to make much difference. You can try more aggressive numbers and see.
 

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Hi,
I’m interested in purchasing the MadVR Envy.
my System is today a Sony VPL VW 870, a Lumagen radiance pro and an Oppo 203. Does the MadVR really above the Lumagen in term of video treatment and HDR ? I have an hesitation between the pro and extrem versions. What will be the future development included only in the extrem ?
 

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Hi,
I’m interested in purchasing the MadVR Envy.
my System is today a Sony VPL VW 870, a Lumagen radiance pro and an Oppo 203. Does the MadVR really above the Lumagen in term of video treatment and HDR ? I have an hesitation between the pro and extrem versions. What will be the future development included only in the extrem ?
Different people prefer one or the other. I have an Envy and love it, but if you’re happy with the Lumagen, I’d stick with it.
 

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Is there a trick to the geometry correction? I’m having to do it for every movie I watch. Seems it won’t save the setting and I have to repeat the effort every time. Any help would be appreciated. When I make the adjustment to the base setting it jumps to temp after I’ve saved the settings.
 

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Is there a trick to the geometry correction? I’m having to do it for every movie I watch. Seems it won’t save the setting and I have to repeat the effort every time. Any help would be appreciated. When I make the adjustment to the base setting it jumps to temp after I’ve saved the settings.
I'm not sure where things are going awry, but you either need to have Base settings selected at the bottom, or hit the Green Button to save it to the Base after making the adjustments, with "On" selected for Geometry Correction.

If you could show with photos, or describe step-by-step what you're doing, hopefully we can figure out what's going on. I configured it once, assigned it to Base, and that was it. So something isn't registering properly.
 

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Different people prefer one or the other. I have an Envy and love it, but if you’re happy with the Lumagen, I’d stick with it.
I understand but we want always to improve our imagé quality. What are the main differences between an envy and Lumagen in image ?
 

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Sony vw760es-madvr envy pro-oppo203-nvidia shield-trinnov altitude 16-mk sound s300 Atmos 7.2.4
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hi I noticed that envy has set me 200nits, after the calibration I had set the measurement value which was 82! now even if I select it it does not save it and always restores 200?
 

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hi I noticed that envy has set me 200nits, after the calibration I had set the measurement value which was 82! now even if I select it it does not save it and always restores 200?
When you save it, are you saving it to the "Base" settings, rather than the "Active" settings? I'm guessing that's what's going on. You need to change the bottom bar to show "Base", and then any changes you make in that menu are assigned as the Base or default value.

Or if it's in the "Active" mode, you can change the Nit setting, and then hit I think the Green button to assign it to the Base value. The context sensitive help menu should give you the instructions.
 

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ok thanks!
When you save it, are you saving it to the "Base" settings, rather than the "Active" settings? I'm guessing that's what's going on. You need to change the bottom bar to show "Base", and then any changes you make in that menu are assigned as the Base or default value.

Or if it's in the "Active" mode, you can change the Nit setting, and then hit I think the Green button to assign it to the Base value. The context sensitive help menu should give you the instructions.
 

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I am noticing some lip sync issues with some of Envy’s later FWs, where I need to set my MX170 to 110ms (using Nvidia Shield Pro). Sometimes it needs additional ms tweaking. So the Envy auto- lip sync detection is not dead on as usual. Anyone else noticing this?
I'm a bit surprised to hear that. Older Envy firmware builds tried to achieve perfect lipsync, but didn't actually verify if that was achieved, which could in some situations cause problems. Newer Envy firmware builds now ask the OS / Nvidia driver when exactly each rendered video frame is output, and if that doesn't match what Envy wanted, a correction is applied. So in theory newer firmware builds should be dead on, while older builds might not always have been.

Can you reproduce this? Does it occur randomly or reliably? With all source devices or only some? With all frame rates or only some? And most importantly: You don't have this issue without the Envy?

I do have occasional lipsync issues, which seem to vary from source to source. Unfortunately my Monoprice HTP-1 pre/pro does not currently have auto lipsync (which is a feature I miss with the Envy in the chain). I have reached out to Monoprice a couple times about this being implemented via a future firmware update, but I have never heard anything back.
Not having Auto-Lipsync is a bit sad, but as long as your AVR can handle the required delay value, it shouldn't matter all too much. Envy has a constant video delay, which doesn't vary with movie resolution or framerate. So you should only have to setup lipsync once and you should be good for all content types.

I had to comment how much I appreciate the geometry correction just added. I have a Sony 885 with the Panamorph DCR lens and am at the minimum throw 1.4 distance. I get some barrel distortion and it’s always bothered me. I can say for the first time it’s gone and I just love it. Previously I had to zoom the image to match the top and bottom of the screen and use the projector’s masking to cut off the sides of the image or use the Envy’s same masking. This just seemed to magnify the barrel distortion and always annoyed me. The process was very simple and for the first time I have no image overspill and crisp edges! Not sure just how many people are annoyed by this, but for me it’s almost worth the cost of the entire unit for just this feature.
Very happy to hear that!! :D To be honest, the original purpose of gemeotry correction was to help owners of curved screens. But I'm glad that it's also helpful for users of anamorphic lenses! Maybe we should talk to Panamorph for combined promotion or something...

On a slightly less positive note I am resorting to rack mounting my Extreme. Right now it’s on the shelf out of my rack since it takes a 5U spot. The fan noise is starting to become annoying especially after I just calibrated my Trinnov and I’m listening to more music. I frequently don’t have the projector on with music, but occasionally for concert music I do. Just wish the Envy was smaller and less noisy. Not a big deal, but I have to move my 2 power conditioners/surge protectors out of the rack to make room for the Envy and reposition them with a non-rack mount option. By placing the Envy in the rack it will cut the fan noise to almost none. Just not excited spending the day moving the power cords around in the rack. The rack fans already blow, but I’m used to that white noise. Either way I’m super happy with it.
I'm sorry to hear about the noise. Smaller and completely silent would be great, of course, but there's a cost to using a very high powered GPU like the Nvidia 3080. We do plan to have more options to let you choose how much power to spend. Right now the Envy is happy to drive the 3080 as hard as it can, even if the image quality benefit is only marginal. In a future firmware you'll be able to configure Envy to have it only drive the 3080 hard if it really brings a noticeably image quality benefit. That should help keep noise down in most situations. We may also find cooling/noise improvements to be made available together with the first (optional) hardware upgrade, but we'll have to wait and see on that. In the long run we hope that as Nvidia switches to better/smaller process nodes, we will be able to offer a performance while reducing noise even further at the same time, but it's probably at least 1.5 years until Nvidia switches to a smaller process node.

Now waiting for NLS and 3D....:)
I have to prioritize HLG right now, due to the upcoming soccer European Championship, but 3D and NLS are coming soon after.

Is there a trick to the geometry correction? I’m having to do it for every movie I watch. Seems it won’t save the setting and I have to repeat the effort every time. Any help would be appreciated. When I make the adjustment to the base setting it jumps to temp after I’ve saved the settings.
hi I noticed that envy has set me 200nits, after the calibration I had set the measurement value which was 82! now even if I select it it does not save it and always restores 200?
As DLCPhoto already hinted, the Envy menu concept works in such a way that all your changes are by default only temporary at first (you should see a bright orange "TEMP" marker in the menu). You need to save them to make the changes permanent. Which you can do with the green circle key on your remote control.

The purpose of this menu concept is that you can play around with the settings to try various things, without having to worry that you're screwing up your "good" config. And only once you're happy with the changes you've made, you save them to become permanent. Furthermore, this concept allows you to change settings specifically for the currently running movie (e.g. increase sharpening or noise reduction, if you feel it necessary) and those changes will automatically reset at the end of the movie. So again, you can change settings without having to worry about messing anything up, and without having to remember undoing any of your changes.
 

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Not having Auto-Lipsync is a bit sad
It's not >that< uncommon (unfortunately?)... I >think< all the MDS HDMI board based systems are missing it, which probably means Monoprice HTP1, Trinnov, Datasat, probably a few others...
 

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As DLCPhoto already hinted, the Envy menu concept works in such a way that all your changes are by default only temporary at first (you should see a bright orange "TEMP" marker in the menu). You need to save them to make the changes permanent. Which you can do with the green circle key on your remote control.

The purpose of this menu concept is that you can play around with the settings to try various things, without having to worry that you're screwing up your "good" config. And only once you're happy with the changes you've made, you save them to become permanent. Furthermore, this concept allows you to change settings specifically for the currently running movie (e.g. increase sharpening or noise reduction, if you feel it necessary) and those changes will automatically reset at the end of the movie. So again, you can change settings without having to worry about messing anything up, and without having to remember undoing any of your changes.
So I finally figured this out. I went to the base setting and made all the geometric adjustments. Seems pretty obvious to me that adjustments in the base setting should not need to be re-saved. Isn’t that what the active menu is for? Anyway, after making the adjustments in the base setting area I needed to save the adjustments a second time. Not entirely intuitive, but after several missed attempts I got there.

Last thing the 4 colored buttons on the bottom of the remote are terrible. I can’t see them in the dark. They are all the same shape. Using colors isn’t effective. Make the red a triangle, the green a circle, the blue a diamond and the yellow a square. Even just the shapes of the colors on the buttons. Even better the shape of the buttons themselves.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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It's not >that< uncommon (unfortunately?)... I >think< all the MDS HDMI board based systems are missing it, which probably means Monoprice HTP1, Trinnov, Datasat, probably a few others...
I would think that the HDMI boards support reporting the EDID block of the display to the AVR's main processor? If so, that should at least make the EDID version of Auto-Lipsync easily possible to be implemented.

So I finally figured this out. I went to the base setting and made all the geometric adjustments. Seems pretty obvious to me that adjustments in the base setting should not need to be re-saved. Isn’t that what the active menu is for? Anyway, after making the adjustments in the base setting area I needed to save the adjustments a second time. Not entirely intuitive, but after several missed attempts I got there.
That is not as intended, of course. I'll fix this for a future build. Probably not in the very next one, though.

Last thing the 4 colored buttons on the bottom of the remote are terrible. I can’t see them in the dark. They are all the same shape. Using colors isn’t effective. Make the red a triangle, the green a circle, the blue a diamond and the yellow a square. Even just the shapes of the colors on the buttons. Even better the shape of the buttons themselves.
The colors are sorted logically. RGB (Red, Green, Blue) come first. Then Yellow last, because Yellow is not in RGB. Hope that helps to remember very easily? We will consider alternative approaches for a future remote control model.
 

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I would think that the HDMI boards support reporting the EDID block of the display to the AVR's main processor? If so, that should at least make the EDID version of Auto-Lipsync easily possible to be implemented.
I don't think there is anything particularly difficult about it, it is just conspicuously absent as a feature on many of the high end processors in the market as of today that are used with these kind of product, with no indication it will appear...

I've seen the usefulness of it questioned as implemented in the simplest case as I think it is a single delay for all refresh rates, which is obviously a bit dumb.
 
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