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No the actual plugs, I was thinking once you put them in you could try screwing them tight. Usually they loosen by unscrewing them. Not the wires, the posts themselves. Push them in and try screwing them tight and then put your banana plugs in.
 

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No the actual plugs, I was thinking once you put them in you could try screwing them tight. Usually they loosen by unscrewing them. Not the wires, the posts themselves. Push them in and try screwing them tight and then put your banana plugs in.
See the picture that he uploaded before. Notice how almost all the metal parts that should be in contact with the output circuitry inside the AVR are now pulled out. The things to screw into are now also disconnected altogether.
Just pushing them in would at best produce unsatisfactory contact with the AVR's output circuitry. I suggest to have the unit repaired. The posts can easily be replaced by a qualified person.
 

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Do you guys have any recommendations for a media rack?

I have my SR7011, PS4, Cable box, Oppo, and the power surge unit. It would need to look nice and blend in with furniture if possible :)
 

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As Jeff suggests ... if the AVR is plugged into a line conditioner or power strip ... remove it from the chain and plug the AVR directly into the wall outlet instead.



Otherwise, as I suggested, try moving the wires if there is a power line crossing the speaker wires.


So I left it sitting out in the open (on my coffee table) totally unplugged all night to see if maybe it was just getting overheated? The next morning I tried the plug straight into the wall with no hum!!! Then I added each component and soon had everything connected and no hum. I even tried plugging it back into a power strip and two days now with zero hum. Maybe it just got overheated?


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So I left it sitting out in the open (on my coffee table) totally unplugged all night to see if maybe it was just getting overheated? The next morning I tried the plug straight into the wall with no hum!!! Then I added each component and soon had everything connected and no hum. I even tried plugging it back into a power strip and two days now with zero hum. Maybe it just got overheated?


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Possibly. You may want to consider adding an AC Infinity Aircom fan (eg. T8) --> https://www.acinfinity.com/component-fan-systems/aircom-t8-receiver-and-av-component-cooling-blower-system-rear-exhaust-17/
 

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See the picture that he uploaded before. Notice how almost all the metal parts that should be in contact with the output circuitry inside the AVR are now pulled out. The things to screw into are now also disconnected altogether.
Just pushing them in would at best produce unsatisfactory contact with the AVR's output circuitry. I suggest to have the unit repaired. The posts can easily be replaced by a qualified person.
Indeed the binding posts have been pulled out; however, they are designed to be "unscrewed" (by hand) to remove them so if Cyral is unable to screw them back in, then yes, repair would be required to replace them.
 

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Marantz SR7011 to inuke nu4-6000

Hello,

I am looking to connect my Marantz SR7011 to two inuke nu4-6000 amplifiers in order to drive my ground layer speakers plus one voice of god. I was wondering if anybody has tried it in the forum. What is the voltage of the pre-outs? Will a simple RCA to XLR cable, from the Marantz SR7011 to the inuke inputs, be enough for each of the channels?

Thank you in advance.
 

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Indeed the binding posts have been pulled out; however, they are designed to be "unscrewed" (by hand) to remove them so if Cyral is unable to screw them back in, then yes, repair would be required to replace them.
With due respect to all concerned, I would like to clarify what may not be obvious to some. The construction appears very flimsy.

What has been pulled out include not only the "male" part to screw in but also the "female" part to screw into. Both the "male" and "female" parts have been pulled out, still screwed together.

The important "female" parts that should be permanently connected to the outputs of the AVR have also been pulled out. These cannot be simply screwed back in. They are supposed to be constructed robustly so that they cannot be pulled out in the first place,
 

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Guys if I'm running the SR7011 only using the pre-outs (5.1) for now, should I have my receiver set to the highest mode of ECO? I'm using literally none of the built in amplification yet this thing could fry an egg after twenty minutes. I would try ECO but I don't want to limit the receiver whatsoever, especially when watching movies and it's roaring. Sorry if this has been asked before...
 

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Guys if I'm running the SR7011 only using the pre-outs (5.1) for now, should I have my receiver set to the highest mode of ECO? I'm using literally none of the built in amplification yet this thing could fry an egg after twenty minutes. I would try ECO but I don't want to limit the receiver whatsoever, especially when watching movies and it's roaring. Sorry if this has been asked before...
The circuitry for the pre-outs is supplied with regulated -+7volts so is not affected by the setting of the ECO mode.

Affected by the ECO mode are only the power amplifiers that drive the speakers. Setting the AVR to eco mode may reduce the amount of heat generated by these amplifiers at their qiescent, unused, state.
 

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Guys if I'm running the SR7011 only using the pre-outs (5.1) for now, should I have my receiver set to the highest mode of ECO? I'm using literally none of the built in amplification yet this thing could fry an egg after twenty minutes. I would try ECO but I don't want to limit the receiver whatsoever, especially when watching movies and it's roaring. Sorry if this has been asked before...
Where is the receiver located? How much clearance does it have? It needs a *lot* of space around it if you're depending on air convection to cool it. Do not use it in an enclosed "entertainment unit" without installing fans.

Double check that Zones 2 and 3 are shut off. It's easy to turn them on accidentally and not notice the dashes in the upper right of the porthole which show that they're on.

Much of the heat is generated by the HDMI and video circuitry. The ECO setting only affects the amplifiers, but it can't hurt to turn it on.

Many people have installed external fans to make sure their D&M receivers stay cool.
 

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Thanks guys. I have about 5" of clearance above it and more than enough on each side plus it's very open in the back and front. I'm waiting for one of those IoT power relay strips so that I can have the 12v trigger fire up the anti-mode 8033 and a few fans. I was just hoping that the ECO mode would turn off the amps but not degrade the pre-out quality. I could only imagine how hot this thing would get actually driving speakers.
 

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Thanks guys. I have about 5" of clearance above it and more than enough on each side plus it's very open in the back and front. I'm waiting for one of those IoT power relay strips so that I can have the 12v trigger fire up the anti-mode 8033 and a few fans. I was just hoping that the ECO mode would turn off the amps but not degrade the pre-out quality. I could only imagine how hot this thing would get actually driving speakers.
Not much hotter actually as the majority of the heat is generated from the video card .. not the amps.
 

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ah well, I'll leave ECO off and just rig up the fans and roast a few sausages from time to time. I had a Pio Elite for 10 years and I swear it never got near 25% as hot as this thing and I haven't even lit it up yet with a heavy movie soundtrack.
 

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PCM, Bitstream Inputs and Output Sound Setting

Ok i am new to the forum just getting my 2016 Marantz 7011. Sound on this is amazing by the way and has come as advertised. I am trying to understand the "Auto" sound feature which seems like the way to go in system set up. Basically, my limited understanding of how Marantz sets this up is if we select a specific sound mode manually it will use the DTS/DOLBY recreation of 5.1(Etc) output. But if we choose "Auto" however the media was coded is how it will play. For example I am watching Jurassic Park which was coded in DTS Master Audio. So Marantz sets sound to DTS.

So my question is based on this above understanding why is my input source of PCM being outputted by the SR7011 as stereo... here is the specifics to what is happening :

1. The input signal from my Samsung was set to PCM as the Blu-Ray player said this is the full use of all sounds in 1 file and your AVR will decode accordingly. Under this output setting for my Blu Ray Player the SR7011 receives the Input in Stereo and plays the sound as "Stereo". If i change the output setting on my Blu Ray player to "Bitstream Re-encoded DTS" then the SR7011 receives the Input Signal as "DTS" and Sound as "DTS + Neural:X". If PCM is supposedly a better incoming stream then why is the SR7011 not taking that information and putting it as the proper output? (I hope this made sense as I am doing the best i can with my limited understanding and the terminology)

2. Is the Auto feature working correctly? Am i missing something here?
 

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Ok i am new to the forum just getting my 2016 Marantz 7011. Sound on this is amazing by the way and has come as advertised. I am trying to understand the "Auto" sound feature which seems like the way to go in system set up. Basically, my limited understanding of how Marantz sets this up is if we select a specific sound mode manually it will use the DTS/DOLBY recreation of 5.1(Etc) output. But if we choose "Auto" however the media was coded is how it will play. For example I am watching Jurassic Park which was coded in DTS Master Audio. So Marantz sets sound to DTS.

So my question is based on this above understanding why is my input source of PCM being outputted by the SR7011 as stereo... here is the specifics to what is happening :

1. The input signal from my Samsung was set to PCM as the Blu-Ray player said this is the full use of all sounds in 1 file and your AVR will decode accordingly. Under this output setting for my Blu Ray Player the SR7011 receives the Input in Stereo and plays the sound as "Stereo". If i change the output setting on my Blu Ray player to "Bitstream Re-encoded DTS" then the SR7011 receives the Input Signal as "DTS" and Sound as "DTS + Neural:X". If PCM is supposedly a better incoming stream then why is the SR7011 not taking that information and putting it as the proper output? (I hope this made sense as I am doing the best i can with my limited understanding and the terminology)

2. Is the Auto feature working correctly? Am i missing something here?
It's not a better input stream, rather it has simply been unzipped instead of the AVR doing it. Better to just select the sound mode you want to use by selecting either MOVIE or MUSIC.
 

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Hello everyone. I purchased a refurb 6011 from accessories4less.com and when I took it out of the box, the front panel wouldn’t stay closed and would fall back open. I contacted Marantz and they said it wasn’t fully refurbished and to send it back. So I sent it back to exchange it for another one. Well, lo and behold, the replacement has the same problem. My question is has anyone ever had or heard of this problem with marantz receivers? I assume it’s a magnet that keeps it closed but I can’t feel any magnetic pulling when pushing the front panel up. What are the odds that two receivers in a row would have the same problem?

Thanks for your time and attention.
 

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Ok i am new to the forum just getting my 2016 Marantz 7011. Sound on this is amazing by the way and has come as advertised. I am trying to understand the "Auto" sound feature which seems like the way to go in system set up. Basically, my limited understanding of how Marantz sets this up is if we select a specific sound mode manually it will use the DTS/DOLBY recreation of 5.1(Etc) output. But if we choose "Auto" however the media was coded is how it will play. For example I am watching Jurassic Park which was coded in DTS Master Audio. So Marantz sets sound to DTS.

So my question is based on this above understanding why is my input source of PCM being outputted by the SR7011 as stereo... here is the specifics to what is happening :

1. The input signal from my Samsung was set to PCM as the Blu-Ray player said this is the full use of all sounds in 1 file and your AVR will decode accordingly. Under this output setting for my Blu Ray Player the SR7011 receives the Input in Stereo and plays the sound as "Stereo". If i change the output setting on my Blu Ray player to "Bitstream Re-encoded DTS" then the SR7011 receives the Input Signal as "DTS" and Sound as "DTS + Neural:X". If PCM is supposedly a better incoming stream then why is the SR7011 not taking that information and putting it as the proper output? (I hope this made sense as I am doing the best i can with my limited understanding and the terminology)

2. Is the Auto feature working correctly? Am i missing something here?
I think it is, and yes, I think you are missing something.

Regardless of the format of the data communications between the two, the role of the receiver is to interpret what it receives from the output of the source, your BD player.
If the BD player sends music/sound data in 2-channel PCM format, then that's what your Receiver receives and interprets. Similarly, if your BD player sends the music data in DTS format, then that's what the receiver interprets. The Receiver does not have a choice in that matter. Your receiver does not yet say to your BD "Noooo, I want it in PCM" instead. (Although it could happen if both the manufaturers agree to put the ability to negotiate the format as "custom handshake" into their products :p).

Also, regardless of the format, all digital data communicated between the receiver and the BD player are composed of "bits" (ones and zeroes) arranged in agreed formats. PCM is a simple format of arranging the "bits" to encode the music, DTS is simply another. But what is common in all of these encoding formats and decoding algorithms is that "they all work with bitstreams (groups of bits)" that are simply arranged differently and in novel ways that may even qualify for $$ patents for purposes of functionality, ie, for things like compression, number of discreet channels, and various other descriptive meta-data encoded as streams/group of "bits" to describe your music.

PCM is not necessarily a better incoming stream. It was the simpliest to decode and perhaps to work with electronically and arithmetically. I haven't checked but I think it makes sense to convert all signals to PCM inside the receiver before any digital signal processing "DSP" like bass-management, etc, is done.

So, configure your BD to convert then output the sound in multi-channel PCM, if you think it can do that better than your receiver can.
 
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