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Two words 'Harmony Remote' done! ;):D
All we want to control is the volume even when not facing head on. How can an expensive Harmony deliver a readable IR signal to the Marantz from a "slight" angle where other remotes can't? Often, mainly when watching TV, the person sitting off to the side wants to control volume (like when loud commercials come on.) The Roku and Comcast X1 remotes are RF.
 

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One of my worst purchasing mistakes was buying the NR-1607 a few years ago. The sound quality is excellent. However I made a huge mistake by assuming a top brand piece of equipment would have long since been controlled w. an RF remote. But no - it is IR controlled. Not only does that inhibit product placement - but this piece of IR makes you be pretty much straight in front of the box.
It's been a few years - but I seem to recall you could buy some piece of equipment (not cheap) to somehow plug in somewhere on the unit to act as an IR antenna. Am I remembering correctly?
What we did, recently, as a make-shift fix was to set a small glass wrapped in aluminum foil just off to the side of the IR eye in front of the 1607 - which reflects the IR signal into the eye. UGLY but makes the remote functional if you are more than 40 degrees from straight on.


Thanks.
I can hit my NR-1607 from well more than 40 degrees. When i run audyessy I'm probably at a 70 degree or more angle to the left as i'm walking out of the room when i send the signal to start the sweeps. This is with the AVR's own remote as well as with two different harmony remotes I've used.
 

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I can hit my NR-1607 from well more than 40 degrees. When i run audyessy I'm probably at a 70 degree or more angle to the left as i'm walking out of the room when i send the signal to start the sweeps. This is with the AVR's own remote as well as with two different harmony remotes I've used.
Does Marantz still make IR driven equipment? If so doesn't that restrict the user where the equipment can even be placed? In any case IF there is some auxiliary device I can purchase to make the IR remote more useable?
 

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Does Marantz still make IR driven equipment? If so doesn't that restrict the user where the equipment can even be placed? In any case IF there is some auxiliary device I can purchase to make the IR remote more useable?
yes the Marantz's are all still IR driven as far as I know. Most people use extenders and/or harmony hubs if they need to place their equipment in a non direct line of sight area. You can more than likely plug something like this into the IR IN port on the back of the AVR. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXY07PH/ref=twister_B084KYCSCT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&coliid=I33V6F5Q9V00LA&colid=TZVKB1G9OUPS
 

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yes the Marantz's are all still IR driven as far as I know. Most people use extenders and/or harmony hubs if they need to place their equipment in a non direct line of sight area. You can more than likely plug something like this into the IR IN port on the back of the AVR. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXY07PH/ref=twister_B084KYCSCT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&coliid=I33V6F5Q9V00LA&colid=TZVKB1G9OUPS
THANKS!! It appears that for less than $7 I can overcome this Marantz deficiency! Using manual - found an IR-In Jack on bottom left (as viewed from back. On my way to Amazon! I assume I don't have to change any weird settings.
This inability to consistently use remote has been a big pain.
Did I say THANKS!!!??
 

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THANKS!! It appears that for less than $7 I can overcome this Marantz deficiency! Using manual - found an IR-In Jack on bottom left (as viewed from back. On my way to Amazon! I assume I don't have to change any weird settings.
This inability to consistently use remote has been a big pain.
Did I say THANKS!!!??
Why not just connect it to your network and use your phone/tablet as the remote?
 

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THANKS!! It appears that for less than $7 I can overcome this Marantz deficiency! Using manual - found an IR-In Jack on bottom left (as viewed from back. On my way to Amazon! I assume I don't have to change any weird settings.
This inability to consistently use remote has been a big pain.
Did I say THANKS!!!??
I noticed the narrow range too although I accidentally found out I can aim the remote upwards and bounce the signal off the ceiling and it works.
 

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Why not just connect it to your network and use your phone/tablet as the remote?
I for one am very glad Marantz still offers IR control and an IR remote.

The smartphone and app solution may work in the short term, but is very unlikely to work in the long-term. At some point, whether it's in 5, 10 or 15 years, support for the app will be dropped by Marantz, and it will no longer work with your current phone. This isn't just some random prediction. I have a 2011 model of Sharp smart TV that has tons of apps now unsupported and rendered useless, and only one that's left working, Vudu. The picture still looks great on it. I'm super glad it has IR.

Also, a phone battery tends to die a hell of a lot faster than that of an IR remote. Your $7 IR extension cable is likely still going to work in 15 years, unless the dog eats it.

If you own an AVR, it's highly likely you have devices attached to it that need controlling, also, besides the display. Some might not have any kind of networking, and thus no app available for them. Most devices support IR input and can be integrated in a single learning and/or programmable universal remote as well. Newer Bluetooth remotes are an obstacle to proper remote integration, IMO. Some devices will come with an IR receiver, but a Bluetooth remote. It's painful. IR receivers are usually found on almost all devices except streaming sticks. Even then, I added an IR receiver to my Fire stick 4K this weekend. It cost me $24, which is a lot for a $50 stick. I really hated the Fire stick remote with a passion, though. No more bending under the theater seats to retrieve it. It's impossible for my gigantic Sony RM-AV2500 to fall through the seats.
 

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I have 4 subs and Buttkickers, I have connected the 4 subs via a splitter (Sub1 & Sub2) via the LFE outputs, running simultaneously.

Questions:

1. How would you hook up the buttkicker, efficiently?

2. Right now I have it connected to Zone 2, does this affect the sound on the Main zone?

I was contemplating splitting the splitter again, your thoughts please?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
 

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I have 4 subs and Buttkickers, I have connected the 4 subs via a splitter (Sub1 & Sub2) via the LFE outputs, running simultaneously.

Questions:

1. How would you hook up the buttkicker, efficiently?

2. Right now I have it connected to Zone 2, does this affect the sound on the Main zone?

I was contemplating splitting the splitter again, your thoughts please?

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
You will need to split the splitters again and connect the buttkickers to those additional splitter connections.
 

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You will need to split the splitters again and connect the buttkickers to those additional splitter connections.
Bummer, that’s what I thought, thanks JD. Be safe and well.

Peace and blessings,

Azeke
 

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due to working from home these past few months been listening to music all day via my NR1607 and have a real minor inconvenience pop up it seems. I have an old cellphone with a bunch of mp3's on it attached via miniplug to RCA splitter going into the CD inputs and it sounds good enough/better than bluetooth for my needs. if I turn on the AVR and turn on the CD input with the TV off it plays fine as it should. However if I had the AVR on a different input with the TV on (say i was playing video games on Game) and switch it to CD and then turn the TV off as it's unnecessary the sound cuts out and the only way to get it back is to turn off and on the AVR (switching inputs back and forth doesn't seem to fix it). The CD input does not have a video input assigned if that helps in diagnosis.

Yesterday I got a regular chromecast (HDMI one not the chromecast audio) as i wanted to cast from my phone the same mp3's to get maybe a slightly better sound (I'm sure it's minimal) as well as not have to have the phone tethered by a cord so I can change songs from anywhere in the condo if I have the phone on me. The regular chromecast works great with the Poweramp app on the phone by the way for those looking to stream music from their phone/tablet. Same thing happens, if I turn the TV off while it's playing the sound cuts out as well and only comes back if i turn off and on the avr (or turn the TV back on). Is there a setting I need to turn on/off so it won't lose the sound when the TV goes off? ARC is turned on in the TV and AVR for those few times i use the TV's apps.
 

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Has anyone been able to get Atmos into their Marantz from a Windows 10 laptop? With the laptop plugged into the SR5011 front HDMI port, I tried to play the Atmos trailers and I could get 2ch audio when I set the PC output to Stereo but when I selected the Atmos sound output option, the Marantz had no sound and it said format unknown on the Info screen. I tried with VLC and Windows built-in video player. I installed the Atmos Windows app and selected the HT option.

Also, I found out the USB port on the SR5011 won't play MP4 videos.
 

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Has anyone been able to get Atmos into their Marantz from a Windows 10 laptop? With the laptop plugged into the SR5011 front HDMI port, I tried to play the Atmos trailers and I could get 2ch audio when I set the PC output to Stereo but when I selected the Atmos sound output option, the Marantz had no sound and it said format unknown on the Info screen. I tried with VLC and Windows built-in video player. I installed the Atmos Windows app and selected the HT option.

Also, I found out the USB port on the SR5011 won't play MP4 videos.

Have you tried JRiver Media Center ? This might work for you. Explore bitstreaming options there.
I can play Atmos just fine from Blu-ray discs on my Marantz SR-7011 using JRiver Media Center 25.
This is from an HTPC with nVidia GPU though, not a laptop.
 

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Is it worth it to purchase the auro-3d add on? I drive a 5.2.4 setup containing four Dolby Enabled speakers.
 

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Is it worth it to purchase the auro-3d add on? I drive a 5.2.4 setup containing four Dolby Enabled speakers.
I had held back on buying it since I thought the DTS and Dolby upmixers could handle things for me just fine, and in the case of movies and most TV that was true, but I found that combo lacking when I played music, I took a leap of faith and bought the Auro upgrade and was very happy with it's behavior on music, it's hit or miss for non-Atmos/Surround TV and movies.


So for me it was a good purchase and I'm running 5.1.4. I moved my Dolby enabled upfiring speakers into LFH and RFH configuration that both setups can use.
 

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I have regular downfiring speakers on ceiling. No other upmixer (except maybe multichannel stereo) is so enveloping for regular stereo music listening. Or .. cranck it up and listen to pure stereo! Started end 2016 with a refurbished 5010, had a 7010 for a month and then went for 7011. Wouldn't have done that without listening with Auro3D upmixer. Now I am at a 9.3.8 multiAvr setup (thinking about adding a BOSS platform somewhere under the seats!).
Have fun
Stay safe
Regards
Alessandro
 

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@jdsmoothie, is it true that the Marantz 7011 will receive the ALLM feature? Is it already compatible or will there be an update? In the PowerPoint presentation from Sound United the 7011 was mentioned to receive this feature.
 

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@jdsmoothie , is it true that the Marantz 7011 will receive the ALLM feature? Is it already compatible or will there be an update? In the PowerPoint presentation from Sound United the 7011 was mentioned to receive this feature.

According to this, it already received it almost two years ago :

https://marantz-uk.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/6725/~/auto-low-latency-mode
Not sure if that's accurate. I had never heard the acronym ALLM until today. Not sure how I could check on my SR7011 if it's actually there or not since it seems to be automatically applied.
 

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@jdsmoothie, is it true that the Marantz 7011 will receive the ALLM feature? Is it already compatible or will there be an update? In the PowerPoint presentation from Sound United the 7011 was mentioned to receive this feature.
As noted in post 15, it received it via firmware update 2 years ago.
 
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