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Yes it does!
Try Uninstalling the dolby app and reinstalling it after doing a hard reset on the console. I was able to correct the issue by doing this and using the dolby app to setup the home theater output again. Check the official xbox one threadon this forum for more info. Good luck.

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Yes, I don't like voices coming out of subs so I switched to 110. Got rid of voices but still has a little midrange coming in. It would be great if Nak could drop even more so you only have lows coming out of subs.
That drives me nuts, too. I've never heard a system throw general sound out of the subs, rather the subs are strictly for lows... just like the surrounds are for surround effects. I guess I'm spoiled with my [former] dedicated theatre system with a sweet PSA sub, but since I built a new house, I dropped a little extra coin on the Nakamichi 7.2.4 to supplement my needs for a couple years. I honestly just wanted to find a nice soundbar that I could connect my PSA sub to, but I couldn't find squat... guessing they don't exist or are unicorns.
 

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Appreciate the share

Yes, I don't like voices coming out of subs so I switched to 110. Got rid of voices but still has a little midrange coming in. It would be great if Nak could drop even more so you only have lows coming out of subs.
I thought I heard that a few times. But yes, I don't either! Glad to know 110 can do that. Thanks.
 

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Just curious if anyone has first hand experience with these Nakamichi vs the Sony htz9f system? I’m mostly torn between these two systems. If I went nakamichi I could only do the one with the single bass speaker as I don’t have room for two. I have a Sony tv and I thought it might be nice to keep everything Sony, but it’s not an absolute must if the performance is a lot better on the Nakamichi. The plus for the Sony is the bass speaker can be kept up front where the Nakamichi you have to plug the rear surrounds into the bass speaker so id have to keep the bass speaker in the rear of my room, which is not ideal based on space and layout. Appreciate any input
 

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Try Uninstalling the dolby app and reinstalling it after doing a hard reset on the console. I was able to correct the issue by doing this and using the dolby app to setup the home theater output again. Check the official xbox one threadon this forum for more info. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Nope...didn't work. Uninstalled>cleared cache>reinstalled. Only 5.1 and others work - just not Ultra/Atmos. Getting aggravated. Wondering if I upgraded to HDMI 2.1 for higher gigabit throughput would help.
 

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Try Uninstalling the dolby app and reinstalling it after doing a hard reset on the console. I was able to correct the issue by doing this and using the dolby app to setup the home theater output again. Check the official xbox one threadon this forum for more info. Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Nope...didn't work. Uninstalled>cleared cache>reinstalled. Only 5.1 and others work - just not Ultra/Atmos. Getting aggravated. Wondering if I upgraded to HDMI 2.1 for higher gigabit throughput would help.
I’ve been going round and round with this since late November. First few days of owning the 7.2, Atmos worked fine on Xbox apps. Since the late Nov Xbox update, Atmos only works on disks. Seems like it’s a recurring issue that every time Dolby Access or Xbox updates Atmos breaks. Annoying.
 

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I cant get Atmos when hooking up my xbox 1x into my LGC9 than out to Arc on my 9.2 shockwafe.It just passes dolby audio. I think i remember reading somewhere that the shockwafe cant pass through atmos via arc?. It works fine when connecting the xbox to the soundbar acorse. I just like having the tv automatically switch to the 'Game' Picture Mode when ran through the TV and i assumed it could pass Atmos since the LG supports Atmos.
 

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DRC function & Subwoofer cross frequency

What does the DRC function actually sound and could someone share in depth details on the subwoofer cross frequency setting?
 

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I know I’ve asked this before but haven’t really got any response. I had vizio bar before and adjusting the volume on the channels (center, rear, etc) from 1-10 was like night and day. I could tell a big volume difference. 1 being nearly shut off. On this bar I can’t seem to tell a difference between 1 and 10 on the individual channels. Is there a big difference between 1 and 10? I feel like my bar is defective and I have a protection plan, but I need an answer. I’ve lived with it but it’s bothersome. When I press movie eq, there’s definitely a noticeable difference in channel volumes. Especially with center being too loud but I can’t adjust it lower. in me adjusting it I don’t notice anything, I put my ear to the speaker and can’t hear and difference in level. I might be hearing some very small volume level change or it’s me expecting a change. I really cannot tell it’s that small. Please help. Just a quick answer.
 

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I've noticed the same with my 9.2 system and the level adjustments. Lowering or raising the levels are (for the most part) small adjustments. Not a big issue for me other than my right rear speaker is way closer to my normal seating position than my left rear, and I can't lower the sound level from it as much as I would like.


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What does the DRC function actually sound and could someone share in depth details on the subwoofer cross frequency setting?
I've been experimenting with my 9.2 since getting 3 wks ago. Nak says they allow a little mid-range and "voices" to come through the subs to help fill the room with audio. I switched crossover to 110 setting and got rid of voices coming out of subs and it lowered the mid-range greatly improving the balance of high/lows in the room. That said, you will want the DRC set to "off" unless you're ok with a reduction in bass.

Nak promotes a 470W sub system, but I do not agree with that. My single 8" 180W sub can overpower both Nak's 10"s! I'm stunned they promote that much power because it's FAR from the truth. 470W should knock you off the couch!! I have to turn my master volume up to 35 and bass at 10 to get any kind of serious "punch." For what's available on the market, I can live with it for now.
 

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Nak 7.2.4. Sharp TV LC60LE632U.
TV and Nak connected ARC
Amazon cube and DirecTV connected to TV

When I turn the system on, the subs and soundbar work but no sound coming through two surrounds. I can select “D” on the remote and it fixes it (sounds best with the first of the three selections, i think “Dolby Surr...”. When I turn system off and back on, I have to press D again to make the surrounds work. All of my other settings are saved and do not change when powering off and on. Thoughts?

P.S. I’m also not completely convinced I’m getting true surround sound, but it sounds outstanding (after putting it in surround mode by pressing D).
 

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Thank you

I've been experimenting with my 9.2 since getting 3 wks ago. Nak says they allow a little mid-range and "voices" to come through the subs to help fill the room with audio. I switched crossover to 110 setting and got rid of voices coming out of subs and it lowered the mid-range greatly improving the balance of high/lows in the room. That said, you will want the DRC set to "off" unless you're ok with a reduction in bass.

Nak promotes a 470W sub system, but I do not agree with that. My single 8" 180W sub can overpower both Nak's 10"s! I'm stunned they promote that much power because it's FAR from the truth. 470W should knock you off the couch!! I have to turn my master volume up to 35 and bass at 10 to get any kind of serious "punch." For what's available on the market, I can live with it for now.
Thanks, I will make sure I'm on that setting. I have gotten the Naka 7.2.4s to sound pretty good, but it's all a bit iffy. If I sit near the subs I hear people's voices still, but as a vibrating muffle.

I just want these things to sound great since I passed on the Sammy Q90Rs and Naka never returned my return inquiry.

Off to try more settings.
 

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On and...

I also want to add that I wish Naka would do a movie mode for the menu led. Dimming it is not good enough, I wish it would just turn off.

And can anyone assist on how to get the soundbar to stick to an HDMI port without having to press it on the remote a million times to make sure it sticks, because although I think it's the Apple TV 4k not playing nice, it's annoying. Can it be CEC? Because I have that off.
 

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I also want to add that I wish Naka would do a movie mode for the menu led. Dimming it is not good enough, I wish it would just turn off.



And can anyone assist on how to get the soundbar to stick to an HDMI port without having to press it on the remote a million times to make sure it sticks, because although I think it's the Apple TV 4k not playing nice, it's annoying. Can it be CEC? Because I have that off.
Dim1 -dark
Dim2 -little dark
Dim3 -bright
Dim0 -bright and will be turned off in 5sec.

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Thanks, I will make sure I'm on that setting. I have gotten the Naka 7.2.4s to sound pretty good, but it's all a bit iffy. If I sit near the subs I hear people's voices still, but as a vibrating muffle.

I just want these things to sound great since I passed on the Sammy Q90Rs and Naka never returned my return inquiry.

Off to try more settings.
There are some tweeks you can do to make it great. Alberto is the customer service manager in Silicon Valley. He's pretty good at getting back to you from their support email.
 

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Dim1 -dark
Dim2 -little dark
Dim3 -bright
Dim0 -bright and will be turned off in 5sec.

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Thanks! I must have missed that or something because I just got it too dim to what I thought was the last level. Guess i'll have to do this tonight.
 

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I finally managed all the cables connected to my 86 inch tv.

I have apple tv, shield tv and my cable settop box and soundbar.

Cables were all over the places, it didnt look good.

So I bought a tv stand and soundbar bracket to solve all cable management.

As you can see in the picture, I hid all the cables behind tv and pillar of tv stand.

I am totally happy and my wife is even happier.


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