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Hey guys!

I checked the audio output settings and the hdmi audio was set to Auto - so I switched it to Bitstream. I thought for sure I already had it on Bitstream but maybe one of the Oppo updates switched it back? After switching to Bitstream I still had the issue... The AVR does report what its receiving, in this case DTS Stereo (L&R) for the Avatar bluray set. My AVR is very old, 2008 I think? Im also using newer Mediabridge Flex Series HDMI Cables, ill try to swap it out to see if thats the cause as well. Anyone have a recommendation for really good hdmi cables thats 2.1 ready in case I have to buy new ones? :D
There are cables that claim to be HDMI 2.1 ready, but testing equipment for the new standards just became available, so be suspicious of claims of full HDMI 2.1 bandwidth support (48 Gbps). That said, HDFury, which has a ton of experience dealing with HDMI cable issues recommends Kabeldirect, Blue Jeans, and their own cables.
 

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Hey guys!

I checked the audio output settings and the hdmi audio was set to Auto - so I switched it to Bitstream. I thought for sure I already had it on Bitstream but maybe one of the Oppo updates switched it back? After switching to Bitstream I still had the issue... The AVR does report what its receiving, in this case DTS Stereo (L&R) for the Avatar bluray set. My AVR is very old, 2008 I think? Im also using newer Mediabridge Flex Series HDMI Cables, ill try to swap it out to see if thats the cause as well. Anyone have a recommendation for really good hdmi cables thats 2.1 ready in case I have to buy new ones? :D

Check to see if Monoprice has them.



I use these and haven't had a problem, although not sure if 2.1. Cheap enough if you need cables now to trouble-shoot.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24187
 

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I'm curious what will come after 'Ultra' when we eventually get to HDMI 2.2 (or whatever comes after 2.1). :D
This is a great idea for a new speaker and interconnect cable company.
FTL cables that allow electricity to operate completely unrestricted with new Faster Than Light technology :p

- Rich
 

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when you say about computer/video generated lettering exhibiting jaggies, is that things like subtitles, would this include movie credits or are they part of the movie content?
Really I mean anything where the lettering wasn't scanned from film. Usually movie credits for movies on film are scanned from film. Sometimes though they are recreated by computer/video. A good example are the credits in the original Star Trek series with the updated special effects. The opening credits have been recreated, and the end credits for some episodes are scanned from the original film, while others have been recreated digitally and recomposited with the scenes they're overlaid on.

As for you mentioning getting the full chroma bandwidth, I'm a little lost here, is that to do with the 4:2:2/4:4:4 chroma stuff, if so from what I understand it gives better colour if 203 is set to custom/auto so that its doing the upscaling.

I would need to check again but I think I did notice slightly muted/flat colour when set to source direct, I think I will change back to custom and let the 203 do the upscaling.
This is more about how high the resolution of the color detail is, and probably wouldn't be noticed as overall muted/flat color. It would more be noticeable if a fabric or something else being displayed had a very finely alternating color scheme. Something finely alternating between red and cyan, magenta and green, etc. If it is very finely spaced on the screen (alternating every 2 pixels, 1080p pixels), it would appear duller with the LG doing the upscaling than the 203. If it's coarse enough that it was only alternating color every 4 pixels, there shouldn't be much noticeable difference.
 
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Really I mean anything where the lettering wasn't scanned from film. Usually movie credits for movies on film are scanned from film. Sometimes though they are recreated by computer/video. A good example are the credits in the original Star Trek series with the updated special effects. The opening credits have been recreated, and the end credits for some episodes are scanned from the original film, while others have been recreated digitally and recomposited with the scenes they're overlaid on.

This is more about how high the resolution of the color detail is, and probably wouldn't be noticed as overall muted/flat color. It would more be noticeable if a fabric or something else being displayed had a very finely alternating color scheme. Something finely alternating between red and cyan, magenta and green, etc. If it is very finely spaced on the screen (alternating every 2 pixels, 1080p pixels), it would appear duller with the LG doing the upscaling than the 203. If it's coarse enough that it was only alternating color every 4 pixels, there shouldn't be much noticeable difference.
Thank you, I switched back to Custom/UHD auto and watched Jojo Rabbit yesterday afternoon and it looked stunning, in fact it was one of the best blurays I have seen for picture quality. Going to to try and stop tinkering with the settings from now on:)
 

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Here is one thing I have noticed with my LG E6 and any devices that upscale to 4K. I will use my OPPO 203 as an example. If I set the OPPO 203 to Source Direct, and display a brightness pluge pattern, the correct brightness is 51, no matter if the sharpness is at 0 or 50. Now, if I set the OPPO to Auto or Custom, with a sharpness of 0, 51 remains correct. If I raise sharpness above 15, I have to raise brightness to 52, otherwise I crush the blacks. This occurs on my Panny 9000, my Oppo 103D forced to 4K output, and any other device like the ATV4K. For some reason, sharpness above 15 does affect the black level on the tv when a device other than my tv is doing the upscaling. At sharpness of zero, bars 17 and 18 flash with no issue. Raise sharpness to 15, both 17 and 18 disappear, but reappear when I raise it to 52. I then display a 0% black slide, at sharpness of 15, brightness 52, the screen remains perfectly black. Lower sharpness to 0, but leave brightness at 52, the screen glows and perfect blacks are gone.
 

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Does anyone have any suggested Resolution settings for Oppo along with a C9 OLED? I am very new to OLEDs and its motion settings are driving me a bit crazy on SDR and HDR10 content; on DV TruMotion to 0 and 10 User settings is alright for now. On oppo itself, I do not like Auto, Direct or 60p, I love everything set to 24p as each frame is held in its entirety and on my old Samsung it was wonderful. On OLED not so much because per rtings "Due to the nearly instantaneous response time, 24p motion can appear to stutter, as each frame is held static onscreen for nearly the entire time. This can be especially noticeable in slow panning shots when watching movies." So I actually like this exact 24p look, it looks amazing on Samsung LCD, but not so much on the C9 and gets a Stutter rating of 5.0 out of 10. Regardless of the rating, its very annoying to experience while watching anything really at this point and so wondering if ppl are using some other combination to remedy this motion issue on OLEDs. PS, I hate SOE with a passion so Clear or Smooth on the tv are not an option.
 

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If I raise sharpness above 15, I have to raise brightness to 52, otherwise I crush the blacks.
I've found no reason to set sharpness higher than 10 on my LG C9, so that hasn't been an issue for me.
 

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^ I've found no reason to set sharpness higher than 10 on my LG C9, so that hasn't been an issue for me.
Neither do I, but why sharpness above 15 affects brightness when the player upscales to 4K vs the tv doing it, is what is baffling. Sharpness should have no effect on brightness, yet it does. That's why I leave the 203 at Source Direct. The player upscaling is messing up something.
 

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Does anyone have any suggested Resolution settings for Oppo along with a C9 OLED? I am very new to OLEDs and its motion settings are driving me a bit crazy on SDR and HDR10 content; on DV TruMotion to 0 and 10 User settings is alright for now. On oppo itself, I do not like Auto, Direct or 60p, I love everything set to 24p as each frame is held in its entirety and on my old Samsung it was wonderful. PS, I hate SOE with a passion so Clear or Smooth on the tv are not an option.
On the C9 you must have "Real Cinema" turned "On" to allow true 24p cadence (with the exception of Game picture modes, where the Real Cinema setting will be greyed out). "Real Cinema" ALSO attempts to restore 24p cadence when it detects 24fps contained within 60fps video. I have "Real Cinema" On and "Tru Motion" completely OFF for SDR, HDR, and DV. 60p setting on the Oppo will disable 24p output, but otherwise Auto and Direct should allow 24p if the source is 24p.
 

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On the C9 you must have "Real Cinema" turned "On" to allow true 24p cadence (with the exception of Game picture modes, where the Real Cinema setting will be greyed out). "Real Cinema" ALSO attempts to restore 24p cadence when it detects 24fps contained within 60fps video. I have "Real Cinema" On and "Tru Motion" completely OFF for SDR, HDR, and DV. 60p setting on the Oppo will disable 24p output, but otherwise Auto and Direct should allow 24p if the source is 24p.
I have tried Real Cinema and its just not cutting it with panning motions. I think this is a De-Judder problem and rting says "The LG C9 is able to remove judder from all sources. To do so, simply enable the Real Cinema setting from the 'Picture Mode Settings' menu. Note that with OLED Motion enabled, there will always be 24p judder, even with Real Cinema enabled." So apparently, even with Real Cinema, 24p is not affected much or helped much. Do you think it might just getting with time and breakin in the panel? Again its my first OLED so don't know if that'd be the case.

On a side note, if Real Cinema is ON, TruMotion is automatically greyed out anyways, you cant turn it ON even if one wanted to.
 

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Note that with OLED Motion enabled, there will always be 24p judder, even with Real Cinema enabled.
That's why I don't enable OLED Motion.
 

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I have tried Real Cinema and its just not cutting it with panning motions. I think this is a De-Judder problem and rting says "The LG C9 is able to remove judder from all sources. To do so, simply enable the Real Cinema setting from the 'Picture Mode Settings' menu. Note that with OLED Motion enabled, there will always be 24p judder, even with Real Cinema enabled." So apparently, even with Real Cinema, 24p is not affected much or helped much. Do you think it might just getting with time and breakin in the panel? Again its my first OLED so don't know if that'd be the case.

On a side note, if Real Cinema is ON, TruMotion is automatically greyed out anyways, you cant turn it ON even if one wanted to.
Turn off both RC and TM. See if you prefer that.
 

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I have quite a few dvda and sacd discs. I presently have the oppo via hdmi and also the 7.1 analog connects. Only using the hdmi and it sounds fine. My present reciever marantz sr7012 doesnt allow switching on the fly to 7.1 connects via remote.My previous marantz sr8002 did. I could switch back and forth. Which was nice.
So dont know if you have the switching options so you can compare..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can switch between analogue and digital inputs easily on your Marantz AV using the Marantz AVR app!
Reading your post I got curious about using the analogue outputs on my oppo 203. I use HDMI for surround sound formats and analogue for stereo, which sound noticeably better than stereo through HDMI. If oppo 203 has a better DAC than my Marantz SR6011, I guess It’ll be the same with surround, at least for multichannel SACDs. I’ll have to find out! ;)
 

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Neither do I, but why sharpness above 15 affects brightness when the player upscales to 4K vs the tv doing it, is what is baffling. Sharpness should have no effect on brightness, yet it does. That's why I leave the 203 at Source Direct. The player upscaling is messing up something.
Personally I don't see the point of any media playback device including a 'sharpness' feature, as all it ever appears to do is increase the brightness at one side of a pixel (horizontally, vertically or both). In my opinion it's a pointless, unnecessary feature that only creates confusion!
 

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You can switch between analogue and digital inputs easily on your Marantz AV using the Marantz AVR app!
Reading your post I got curious about using the analogue outputs on my oppo 203. I use HDMI for surround sound formats and analogue for stereo, which sound noticeably better than stereo through HDMI. If oppo 203 has a better DAC than my Marantz SR6011, I guess It’ll be the same with surround, at least for multichannel SACDs. I’ll have to find out! ;)

I have the app so ill take a look to see if i find the input.. thx


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I recently purchased a used 203. I really like the player but I have noticed a couple of things that seem a little unusual. Neither of these things are an issue really, just a bit out of the norm from my previous experience. The 203 replaced an Oppo 105 so I am intimately familiar with the menu structure and set up procedure for Oppo players. Also have a friend with a 83SE which I performed the set up for. I connected the 203 with the same Wireworld HDMI cable into the same HDMI input on my Arcam AVR 600. No additional adjustments should have been necessary for my AVR. Since this is an identical digital connection all the level and output settings on my AVR should have provided identical or at least very similar output levels. This was not the case however. On all discs the subwoofer level is much higher with the 203. I didn't measure how much higher, but I would say at least 10db. Not only that, the overall output level of the 203 is much higher than my 105 at the same volume setting. Is this normal for the 203? I have checked, re-checked and checked again all of the settings on the 203, but as I said this is a digital connection and all the processing is being done in the Arcam AVR. I even reconnected my 105 and yep all the levels are much lower. If this is normal for the 203, why? Was this a conscious choice by Oppo's design team, or is it due to some specific components within the player? Like I said not really a big deal, I just went into the AVR's set up and lowered the sub level and I guess theoretically the higher overall output level could possibly increase the available dynamic range, but every other disc player I have ever owned without exception has required more volume to attain the same db level as my broadcast signal. The 203 is the opposite of this, no pun intended.
 
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