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Do we know what will replace the 8000 and when it will be released?
 

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From what I hear from the guys at the Panasonic warranty shop, there won't be a replacement for the 8000.
 

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ChannelMaster DVR+ Crashes When Connected to PT-AE8000

My ChannelMaster DVR+ will either not turn on or if forced to reboot will lock up with a magenta screen if connected to my PT-AE8000. I had no problems when connected to my previous PT-AE4000. I returned the unit to ChannelMaster which found nothing wrong. After I isolated the problem to being the DVR, ChannelMaster indicated that it was a problem with HTCP and implied they will not be fixing this. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this?

I also posted in the DVR+ owners thread several days ago, but no response.
Is yours connected directly to the projector? I am using a dvr+ as well and have not had any issues. Mine is going through my receiver first though...
 

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My ChannelMaster DVR+ will either not turn on or if forced to reboot will lock up with a magenta screen if connected to my PT-AE8000. . . .
Is yours connected directly to the projector? I am using a dvr+ as well and have not had any issues. Mine is going through my receiver first though...
It's passing through my Yamaha receiver, which worked with my PT-AE4000. I'll try connecting it directly.
 

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I think Panasonic is getting out of the HT PJ business.
Oh noes. They are my go to brand! I have had them for over a decade.
 

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Excessive blooming will most likely be a result of too high of a contrast setting, not the brightness.
 

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Hi all,

I've had the pj for approx. 2 weeks now. I'm pretty darn happy with it so far. During the calibration process, specifically contrast adjustment, I noticed a pinkish hue along the lower quarter of the screen. The pj is ceiling mounted to an elevation of approx. 7' 4" from the floor. I'm projecting onto a 92" 1.0 gain screen, 14 feet away. The center of the screen is 4' 4" from the floor. Horizontally, the pj is located within a couple of inches from center. I've noticed this in all picture modes. Disabling the dynamic iris makes the problem less noticeable.

On a second note; I've had to use the HDMI 2 input, as the pj would connect then disconnect repeatedly when using HDMI 1 input. I do have occasional disconnect problems with HDMI 2 input, but 2 seems to be a better choice. My cable length is approx. 50 feet long, and I suspect that might be the issue. I will try adding a HDMI signal booster.

I haven't found anything in the user manual, regarding which HDMI input to use for 3D viewing. Am I to assume that all three HDMI inputs will accept a 3D signal? As of this time I don't have the ability to view any 3D material, but soon I hope to.
 

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I think in my case it is a malfunction, as I've brought both contrast & brightness to lowest level in all modes with no improvement. Think I will have to see if I can exchange it for a new one.
 

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The picture on my Panasonic has been cutting to black for a few months now. Tried many different types of HDMI, different power on cycles ect. Could it be an issue with the projector itself?
 

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The picture on my Panasonic has been cutting to black for a few months now. Tried many different types of HDMI, different power on cycles ect. Could it be an issue with the projector itself?
Pretty sure I turned off "Deep Color" in the menu and the issue went away.
 

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...I noticed a pinkish hue
.
I actually have almost the exact same screen setup as you which I am sure has nothing to do with the fact that I have a slight pink tint at the top right corner and lower left. Much less than 1/4 of the height and quite slight especially with my settings the way I like them. I am not thrilled over this fact but I wont send the pj back over this. As for 3D over HDMI, I see no reason to think it matters but I am using HDMI 1 on mine. I have a 30' redmere cable and I am not fully sure about it yet. It seems fine from an HTPC and from a Sony BD player (what I use for 3D) but it may or may not go black with my Kdlinks HD720 while showing a menu every once in a while. It may also be normal on the KD since I have never hooked it up anywhere else.
Sorry to not be more help.

BTW: the 3D control emitters even set at the lowest power setting almost kill the IR from my other remotes. The one for the pj and for the players and my LED lighting all need to be aimed very well to get over that blast of IR from the pj. If I was going to be serious about 3D I would use an external emitter placed in front of the viewers.

Andy
 

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BTW: the 3D control emitters even set at the lowest power setting almost kill the IR from my other remotes. The one for the pj and for the players and my LED lighting all need to be aimed very well to get over that blast of IR from the pj. If I was going to be serious about 3D I would use an external emitter placed in front of the viewers.

Andy
Great justification for getting a robust control system like URC, particularly if it does wired and RF control behind the scenes. (wink)
 

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Great justification for getting a robust control system like URC, particularly if it does wired and RF control behind the scenes. (wink)
Totally! But seeing as I am an old fart who needs glasses to see things close but not to see a big screen 12 feet away I will no longer want to use a normal hand size remote for this task. I've had 3 Harmonys starting with the very first through the years.

OTOH my old Asus Transformer Ultimate tablet works very well as a remote for PowerDVD which I likely wont use anymore. URC! What a great job for that old tablet which was never good at anything before now. So if I go back to URC I expect it will be android tablet based but to be honest I need to finish a new ceiling and some wall painting and a few LED light panels first and also decide whether to change my media player (the KDlinks) and THEN I can address the URC.
 

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p78 or so of the 8000's manual describes how the HDMI input can be switched between "normal" and "expand". I believe expand means deep color.


I don't own an 8000, yet, but I looked it up.
 

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