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I use cinema 2, and did the same adjusted settings according to a sound and vision review recommendation.

Mines got ascott 3300hrs, still pretty bright on the original globe after 5 years. Thou the last few months, I've noticed a focus issue, i can't seem to get the pana ae8000u focus right. Also finding lately that the lens memory is not keeping the correct output when it's in 16:9, but correct when zooming for scope.

Is there a focus tool other than the std focus screen with the cross lines?

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Here is what it looks like on the inside: https://imgur.com/a/BMeQKfx

As you said, the LCDs are glued on to the prism assembly with some hard glue, the white thing you can see in the pictures used to hold the board from the black plastic support. I guess it would be reasonable to find a way to force it in/out a few microns to adjust for my error, if only I had a way to correct for it in real time. Eyeballing a fix, mounting it back and repeating 20 times is unreasonable, especially because I have no idea how many times the axis are inverted inside that optical system, so it would be a guessing game, really. As I write it I'm tempted to do it, I don't know...

I do wonder however how much of this problem is due to china optimising manufacturing times not letting the glue cure before taking it off the test/alignment rig.
 

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Here is what it looks like on the inside: https://imgur.com/a/BMeQKfx



As you said, the LCDs are glued on to the prism assembly with some hard glue, the white thing you can see in the pictures used to hold the board from the black plastic support. I guess it would be reasonable to find a way to force it in/out a few microns to adjust for my error, if only I had a way to correct for it in real time. Eyeballing a fix, mounting it back and repeating 20 times is unreasonable, especially because I have no idea how many times the axis are inverted inside that optical system, so it would be a guessing game, really. As I write it I'm tempted to do it, I don't know...
Don’t do it. That’s a fraction adjustment of more than 1000 fraction within the less than 2 centimeters. It would be pure luck to get it right, and even luckier to keep it right.



I do wonder however how much of this problem is due to china optimising manufacturing times not letting the glue cure before taking it off the test/alignment rig.
I doubt they are depending on that to achieve panel alignment.






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I have to replace my lamp too, getting the warning message. Does the lamp dim over time, or does it just stop working? I tried to look up the platinum lamp mentioned but they don't have any it seems. I did see bh has the red lamp.

For most of the time I've had the projector, I've used the normal setting, sometimes cinema 2. A couple months ago I discovered on youtube an official HOW-TO on this particular projector, and now I feel like I have a new projector.


What really changed it was doing the advanced gamma setting for waveform monitor using the graphs in the projector. The video shows an adjustment that wasn't really showing the same on mine, But I lined up the lines pretty close, and suddenly my black levels were really black, and colors popping. Go to the picture menu, then advanced, the 15 point adjustment and do each color line, move the points over the line shown, and at least for me upgraded the picture and made the projector seem like a new projector. It's not as popping as my lg oled tv, but it remarkably comes close, and my screen is 150 inches diagonal. I chose one of the other rarely used presets to adjust so I wouldn't mess up anything major. I highly recommend watching the four part videos.

I didn't realize what the lens memory was for, but that is super awesome. I have an outdoor screen and it takes a bit of time to readjust focus, zoom etc, and now I can pick the projector up from my living room, take it to my spot outside, turn it on and push memory load and all the work is done, then I take it back and load the living room lens memory. Now when my son wants to watch and outdoor movie it's a yes, rather than an oh well, it's already late...

has anyone "upgraded" to a new projector from this one? My picture is awesome but was wondering how newer projectors are on the quality side.
 

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I have to replace my lamp too, getting the warning message. Does the lamp dim over time, or does it just stop working?
Dims a lot over the first ~100 hrs [which is why it is best to not do any super serious, time consumming calibration until after that] and then gently dims very slowly after that.
 

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So, now that I'm getting the replace lamp warning, does that mean my projector should be substantially dimmer from when it was brand new? Just trying to figure out what the difference is that I can expect when I put in the new bulb. If it's not noticeable I'll run the present lamp until it dies, or if it's much dimmer now and I can't tell because it's happened over time, then I'll replace the lamp sooner than later and not wait until it dies. It still has a good picture, but it would be nice to have it a bit brighter.
 

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If it's not noticeable I'll run the present lamp until it dies,
I have to admit I've done this at times too, however be advised this is risky. The warning to replace the bulb is not just because the bulb's brightness is reduced but also because its likelihood of exploding has significantly grown at this point. There are some minimal protections in place to prevent shattered glass splinters from splattering onto the LCD panels but it is not a 100% bullet-proof thing. The circulating air system (fan cooling) can carry glass "dust" to places where it harms your projected image.
 

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Ah! Thanks for the heads up. I noticed online that the air filter should be replaced at the same time. My old one dry rotted and I put some speaker grill cover in it's place to filter it somewhat, but I think the legit new lamps come with the air filter replacement. Would you suggest buying directly from Panasonic, or from bh photo? I want to get the actual lamp that came with my projector. Thanks for explaining earlier in this thread that "OEM" is not used in describing the legit original Panasonic lamps.

I'll get a new lamp pronto, I had an sharp xv-z2000 that had popped on a relatively new but third market lamp and besides scaring my silly, made a mess inside the projector and it took time to clean it out.
 

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oh, wanted to mention, also earlier in this thread you had a link to a video you made on adjusting the waveform but the link wasn't working anymore.
 

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Thanks. I have attempted to fix it. Does this now work?

 

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B&H have always treated me well and the one time I had a shipping problem [UPS issue, not theirs] they seemed to bend over backwards putting a trace on it ASAP so I like their customer service.

Last time I looked into it, and things may change over time, Provantage and AGI [Audio General Inc.?] are/were also legit, warranty covered, real deal Panny bulb dealers.
 
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Thanks!

That link works, great video, I'm going to calibrate tonight. I downloaded some test movies to use as I don't have HBO.

I wound up ordering the red rich lamp, I hope that's the right one, from bh photo.

This is a wonderful projector, but I'm curious if a newer one has a better image, or better enough to warrant the cost of a new projector. I have a 150 inch screen, and sit right in front of the projector at it's minimum throw distance for the screen size. The difference between my old sharp projector and this one is night and day.
 

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I've owned mine for five years now, and I noticed the picture getting a lot dimmer lately. I used to be able to watch it in regular daylight, with house lights on, no problem. Now I need to turn off lights and close curtains.

I already replaced the bulb, with the legit part, not a second hand knock off, and I switched back and forth from eco to regular. There was no difference, so it shouldn't have been the bulb. I had resigned myself to just deal with it, five years is a nice long time I suppose, but my girlfriend mentioned she went through the same issue with her projector (entirely different make and model), and it ended up being the color wheel.

I don't remember seeing anything like that when I changed the bulb, and I did some googling and can't even confirm if my projector has a color wheel.

Any suggestions? I haven't noticed any other issues.
 

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^Color wheels are in single chip technology pjs such as most DLP pjs. The Panasonic is an LCD technology, three actually (red, green and blue) so there is no rotating color wheel.

The 8000 does however have a non-rotating color correction filter when used in some modes. If you listen closely you can actually hear the servo motor moving it into and out of position depending on the picture mode you select. It increases color accuracy at the expense of a small loss in light output, i.e. dimmer. Only some picture modes use the color filter but if added brightness is your priority try the modes called "Normal" and especially "dynamic" for the greatest brightness.
 

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^Color wheels are in single chip technology pjs such as most DLP pjs. The Panasonic is an LCD technology, three actually (red, green and blue) so there is no rotating color wheel.

The 8000 does however have a non-rotating color correction filter when used in some modes. If you listen closely you can actually hear the servo motor moving it into and out of position depending on the picture mode you select. It increases color accuracy at the expense of a small loss in light output, i.e. dimmer. Only some picture modes use the color filter but if added brightness is your priority try the modes called "Normal" and especially "dynamic" for the greatest brightness.
Thanks for the idea, I cycled through and was already on Dynamic. I did notice significant difference in bright levels while cycling, and Dynamic was the brightest, but it is still dimmer than it used to be.
 

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I’ve had this projector since 2015 and it’s always had this. I’ve never noticed it unless it’s on the blue screen when no source output is detected.

It’s predominantly on the left of the screen but a tiny bit on the right hand corner as wel




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