Don’t do it. That’s a fraction adjustment of more than 1000 fraction within the less than 2 centimeters. It would be pure luck to get it right, and even luckier to keep it right.Here is what it looks like on the inside: https://imgur.com/a/BMeQKfx
As you said, the LCDs are glued on to the prism assembly with some hard glue, the white thing you can see in the pictures used to hold the board from the black plastic support. I guess it would be reasonable to find a way to force it in/out a few microns to adjust for my error, if only I had a way to correct for it in real time. Eyeballing a fix, mounting it back and repeating 20 times is unreasonable, especially because I have no idea how many times the axis are inverted inside that optical system, so it would be a guessing game, really. As I write it I'm tempted to do it, I don't know...
I doubt they are depending on that to achieve panel alignment.I do wonder however how much of this problem is due to china optimising manufacturing times not letting the glue cure before taking it off the test/alignment rig.
You can fix everything, including this one. Read through a Google translator or any other.Yeah I'm all but certain you are right and it's unfixable.
Dims a lot over the first ~100 hrs [which is why it is best to not do any super serious, time consumming calibration until after that] and then gently dims very slowly after that.I have to replace my lamp too, getting the warning message. Does the lamp dim over time, or does it just stop working?
I have to admit I've done this at times too, however be advised this is risky. The warning to replace the bulb is not just because the bulb's brightness is reduced but also because its likelihood of exploding has significantly grown at this point. There are some minimal protections in place to prevent shattered glass splinters from splattering onto the LCD panels but it is not a 100% bullet-proof thing. The circulating air system (fan cooling) can carry glass "dust" to places where it harms your projected image.If it's not noticeable I'll run the present lamp until it dies,
Thanks for the idea, I cycled through and was already on Dynamic. I did notice significant difference in bright levels while cycling, and Dynamic was the brightest, but it is still dimmer than it used to be.^Color wheels are in single chip technology pjs such as most DLP pjs. The Panasonic is an LCD technology, three actually (red, green and blue) so there is no rotating color wheel.
The 8000 does however have a non-rotating color correction filter when used in some modes. If you listen closely you can actually hear the servo motor moving it into and out of position depending on the picture mode you select. It increases color accuracy at the expense of a small loss in light output, i.e. dimmer. Only some picture modes use the color filter but if added brightness is your priority try the modes called "Normal" and especially "dynamic" for the greatest brightness.