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504 is 10% THD 6ohms 503 is 0.9% thd 6ohms,
Which the receiver runs at, 6ohms or 4ohms.
Pioneer is listing conflicting information on their website. Is it a typo? If you look at the top of each product page, power specs are the same:






In the respective owner manuals, the specs are the same as well.

LX503:


LX504:
 

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I apologize in advance if this has been addressed, but I couldn't find it. My question is in regards to eARC. I own the 503 and will be receiving a LG OLED C9 here in a couple days. I've heard conflicting reports about the eARC working/not working for this pair. Does anybody have this receiver/tv combo and can confirm any issues with it? I have a big time lip synch issue with my C6 and I'm hoping eARC fixes it. Thanks for info
I have the LG 65C9 and I cannot get eARC to work. ARC works not not eARC.
I have an LG65C9 and a Pioneer VSX-LX503 and eARC works. I suspect Gary's problem comes from his computer's particular video card. I don't ever connect a computer so I can't really comment.

I will say that I have had some syncing issues with the my Sony UBP-X800m2. When the blu-ray player is connected directly to the LG, it works and I can get TrueHD over eARC. When the blu-ray player is connected to the Pioneer, sometimes the LG will report no picture while the Pioneer plays the audio. I bought a Dr. HDMI 4K and it fixes the issue. Every now and then I get no picture, but a quick power cycling of the Dr. HDMI always fixes it. I suspect this is from some EDID compatibility problem between the Sony and Pioneer.
 

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Getting my new 503 up and running today. I have 9 Klipsch speakers. I also have a second amp, an Emotiva XPA 5.

My plan is to drive my front and side speakers (2 RF 7's, a huge Klispch center speaker and RF 82's on the side) using the Emotiva amp (200 watts per channel). My rear stage is made up of 2 RF 82's and RF 62's.

My rear stage will be driven by the Pioneer 503.


Does this seem right? Are there any reasons to instead have the 503 powering my front stage, and the Emotiva amp powering my rear stage? I could also have my Emotive powering my sides and rear.


Thanks
 

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Is anyone using "Works with Sonos" and a Sonos Connect? I am trying to diagnose a behavior on my VSX-933 which is same as LX103 and thus should have same exact Works with Sonos functionality.

I have the feature working in general except for volume behavior. When the receiver Sonos setup is set to "Last" for volume, it uses the last volume setting that the receiver was on from prior input use, but you cannot change the volume on the receiver whatsoever. What is interesting is that I could do this on initial testing with the older firmware the receiver shipped with. I then upgraded to newest 1040-8000-1050-0010 and it didn't work.

Also when the Connect is set to "pass-through" you can't control the receiver volume in the Sonos app, which is supposed to be what this does, as a feature of "Works with Sonos". There isn't anything I can find online that is 100% conclusive on if this should work though.

Do you have same or different behavior?
 

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Apple TV os 12.4 is out.... installing now... I’ll tell y’all if it breaks atmos lol.

I’m running all 48gb 8k hdmi 2.1 cables so that’s never an issue with me.
 

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Hi Guys.
I'm considering purchasing a refurb 503 from A4L next week if the repairs on my Marantz 6012 are going to cost more than the price of the 503.
I've researched the 503 quite a bit here and on other sites and it appears to be a very good 9.2(11.2) receiver for the money. I am running 7.2.4 atmos.
My only concern is the limit on crossover settings to 80hz on all 'small' set speaker channels. My 6012 allowed for individual crossover settings on all channels. I currently have my 4 atmos ceiling speakers (speakercraft AIM LCR5's) all set at 110hz cross over. My question is, would I really notice any difference if those speakers were crossed over at 80hz vs 110hz?
My side and rear surrounds are Klipsch Ultra 2's so they are already crossed at 80Hz as are my DIY HTM12's.
Thanks for the advice.
 

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Good evening everyone, I have a setup question that I thought I would ask after scratching my head and re-reading the manual on my setup.

I have the 503 and currently, have it set up as a 5.1.2 using the Height 1 (terminals - per page 48 of the user manual) for my speakers (for Atmos) that are ceiling mounted.

Never thought about this till recently, and noticed that my DTS-MA 7.1 was only playing out of my 5.1 system, no sound from the Height which I believe is how it works when configured per page 48 as the speakers are set to Height and not Surround Back.

Do I have any options to have my ceiling speakers work in a 5.1.2 and 7.1 setup (other than buying 2 more speakers) - I would really like to have the receiver output 5.1.2 as configured but when atmos is not available to take advantage of the 2 speakers as the "Surround Back" in a 7.1 mix.

Thanks for any advice.
My understanding is if you have the speakers configured under the dolby enabled settings, they will only have audio routed to them when it is processing the proper encoded audio type. From the manual "By installing such
height speakers, when the input format is Dolby Atmos, you can select the Dolby
Atmos listening mode which realizes the most up-to-date 3D sound including
overhead sound."

Also check page 122 of the manual which details conditions on what you can and can not designate the use of those speakers\combinations for. Also page 13 "Do you enjoy sound with Dolby Atmos?" that has links to which page may fit your desired setup.
 

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I currently have a Yamaha 1050 AVR Aventage which I had professionally calibrated a few years back. Overall, the receiver is a great performer, aside from two complaints.

One is the absence of Dolby Vision. The only way around this is to run separate HDMI cables for both audio and video from my BD player. This works fine for Dolby Vision, but causes lip sync issues, primarily while using the build-in BD player apps. The logical step would be to simply just upgrade my receiver. And while I could just buy a newer Aventage, it lacks a simple but crucial feature that I’ve always preferred and that’s the ability to turn off the front display.

Since I primarily watch in a dark room, I don’t like the bright front display of the Yamaha being on all the time. While you can dim it down, you can’t turn it off. Years ago, I had a Sony AVR and the front display would turn on whenever something happened for about five seconds and then would turn off (and stay off) until another command was made. I’ve never quite understood why Yamaha lacks this feature.

Is it available on the Pioneer Elites?
 

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Is it available on the Pioneer Elites?
You can turn the display off even on non-Elite Pioneer receivers, so I'm sure the Elite ones support this as well, but you should probably download and check the owner's manual of a particular Elite receiver you're looking to purchase.

If you're asking about the LX503 specifically, then yes, it allows you to turn the display off. There is an "FL off" indicator that will light up in its place.
 

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Greetings,


I just purchased the Pioneer 503 and am wondering if it can truly power 9 speakers (my subs are powered separately). I have done the math, but speaker matching is not an exact science and the variables used to calculate are suspect.


The speakers are Klipsch reference, known for their high sensitivity. I have the RF 7's up front with a huge Klipsch center channel. I have 2 rf 82' (each side) and 2 in the back. I also have 2 smaller Klipsch speakers in back.

That is a total of 9 speakers. However, I have serious doubts that my receiver (the 503) cannot power 9 speakers adequately so I also have an additional amp (emotive).

I had my front stage (2 sides and 3 front speakers) wired to my emotive amp. However, I was thinking of powering my front stage (5 large speakers) with my new Pioneer 503, and the back 4 speakers would be powered by my emotive amp.

Any helpful advice will be greatly appreciated.
It should have plenty of power to drive all 9 speakers on its own, especially since those are 8ohm high sensitivity speakers. The LX503 puts out up to 120W/Ch, and can output up to 90W/Ch into all 9 simultaneously based on testing. That should reach deafeningly loud levels with your speakers based on SPL calculations.

The Emotiva may have a better amp so it might still be worth using, but the LX503 has plenty of power to drive your speakers so it certainly isn't required.
 

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Good evening everyone, I have a setup question that I thought I would ask after scratching my head and re-reading the manual on my setup.

I have the 503 and currently, have it set up as a 5.1.2 using the Height 1 (terminals - per page 48 of the user manual) for my speakers (for Atmos) that are ceiling mounted.

Never thought about this till recently, and noticed that my DTS-MA 7.1 was only playing out of my 5.1 system, no sound from the Height which I believe is how it works when configured per page 48 as the speakers are set to Height and not Surround Back.

Do I have any options to have my ceiling speakers work in a 5.1.2 and 7.1 setup (other than buying 2 more speakers) - I would really like to have the receiver output 5.1.2 as configured but when atmos is not available to take advantage of the 2 speakers as the "Surround Back" in a 7.1 mix.

Thanks for any advice.
Sorry you didn't get an answer sooner, but I think what you want is to use one of the "upmixer" surround sound modes, which are Dolby Surround (DSur) or DTS Neural:X. These modes will take whatever the input signal is and up-mix it to match the speakers that you have installed. It won't necessarily send the "surround back" signal to them, but it will send sound that it thinks is appropriate for your speaker placement (which may include some of that surround back signal). Just press the surround button on your remote to toggle through the different settings until you get to one of those two.

If you really want to force it to play the "surround back" channels out of the ceiling speakers you'd have to change the "speaker setup" in settings to 7.1 each time and then back to 5.1.2 for Atmos stuff, but I think using the upmixer modes would be a better and easier solution than toggling that setting based on content.
 
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Hi Guys.
I'm considering purchasing a refurb 503 from A4L next week if the repairs on my Marantz 6012 are going to cost more than the price of the 503.
I've researched the 503 quite a bit here and on other sites and it appears to be a very good 9.2(11.2) receiver for the money. I am running 7.2.4 atmos.
My only concern is the limit on crossover settings to 80hz on all 'small' set speaker channels. My 6012 allowed for individual crossover settings on all channels. I currently have my 4 atmos ceiling speakers (speakercraft AIM LCR5's) all set at 110hz cross over. My question is, would I really notice any difference if those speakers were crossed over at 80hz vs 110hz?
My side and rear surrounds are Klipsch Ultra 2's so they are already crossed at 80Hz as are my DIY HTM12's.
Thanks for the advice.
did you buy your sr6012 new? If so it should still be under warranty as it has a 3 year mfrs warranty. If you bought a refurb then maybe it has expired since that is only 1 year.

The limitation of the crossover settings is one reason why I never purchased the LX503.
 

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Hi Guys.
I'm considering purchasing a refurb 503 from A4L next week if the repairs on my Marantz 6012 are going to cost more than the price of the 503.
I've researched the 503 quite a bit here and on other sites and it appears to be a very good 9.2(11.2) receiver for the money. I am running 7.2.4 atmos.
My only concern is the limit on crossover settings to 80hz on all 'small' set speaker channels. My 6012 allowed for individual crossover settings on all channels. I currently have my 4 atmos ceiling speakers (speakercraft AIM LCR5's) all set at 110hz cross over. My question is, would I really notice any difference if those speakers were crossed over at 80hz vs 110hz?
My side and rear surrounds are Klipsch Ultra 2's so they are already crossed at 80Hz as are my DIY HTM12's.
Thanks for the advice.
I also was worried about the crossover settings and e-mailed Pioneer about it and this was their response:

As long as you have the SPEAKER CONFIGURATION set to an ATMOS configuration (3.1.2, 4.1.2, 5.1.2, etc.) and have set the HEIGHT SPEAKERS to DOLBY (F) or (B), you will not have any issues. The CROSSOVER settings is for the MAIN zone speakers (not the Dolby ATMOS Enabled speakers). The system will be aware of the configuration and only send the Dolby content to the Dolby Enabled Speakers (this typically has no bass tones within it) so you will not have to worry about damaging your receiver or speakers.
Anyway, I'd still like to have independent crossover settings but it shouldn't be an issue with the Atmos (supposedly). FWIW I have mine crossed at 80Hz and haven't had any problems with my Atmos speakers.
 

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Getting my new 503 up and running today. I have 9 Klipsch speakers. I also have a second amp, an Emotiva XPA 5.

My plan is to drive my front and side speakers (2 RF 7's, a huge Klispch center speaker and RF 82's on the side) using the Emotiva amp (200 watts per channel). My rear stage is made up of 2 RF 82's and RF 62's.

My rear stage will be driven by the Pioneer 503.


Does this seem right? Are there any reasons to instead have the 503 powering my front stage, and the Emotiva amp powering my rear stage? I could also have my Emotive powering my sides and rear.


Thanks
As I mentioned in my previous reply the external amp is probably not needed, but since you have it I think using it for the front channels makes the most sense as it is sounds like a more capable amp than what is inside the LX503 so you might as well use it on your primary speakers.
 

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Video drop out

Hi,

Just finished setting up my system for Atmos 5.1.4. Generally, I'm pleased, but I have the video drop out problem some have mentioned. More so with some inputs (e.g. Roku Ultra) than others (rare on TV).

Just wondering, from those who also reported similar problems--and lots of solutions were offered (from new HDMI cables to secret codes to "standard" vs "enhanced")--what worked for you? Has anybody eliminated their video drop out problem? Anybody actually have to return their receiver? (I am in the processing of buying new, most up-to-date, certified HDMI cables, but many have said that replacing cables alone did not help.)

BTW, any new solutions welcome. Thanks!
 

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Hi,

Just finished setting up my system for Atmos 5.1.4. Generally, I'm pleased, but I have the video drop out problem some have mentioned. More so with some inputs (e.g. Roku Ultra) than others (rare on TV).

Just wondering, from those who also reported similar problems--and lots of solutions were offered (from new HDMI cables to secret codes to "standard" vs "enhanced")--what worked for you? Has anybody eliminated their video drop out problem? Anybody actually have to return their receiver? (I am in the processing of buying new, most up-to-date, certified HDMI cables, but many have said that replacing cables alone did not help.)

BTW, any new solutions welcome. Thanks!
I tried a couple of different premium certified cables and went as short as 3 feet and could not get rid of the issue running in enhanced mode (10 bit). I went back to standard mode (8 bit) and I don't have any black screens. I contacted Pioneer but they are broken record "it's the cable" which is BS. And I still cannot get my AT&T STB to work through the LX503 and that same STB works fine on my prior Pioneer receiver. Pioneer support told me it's AT&T issue yet would not answer why it works with their older receivers. They just don't want to admit anything is broke with the 503.
 

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I tried a couple of different premium certified cables and went as short as 3 feet and could not get rid of the issue running in enhanced mode (10 bit). I went back to standard mode (8 bit) and I don't have any black screens. I contacted Pioneer but they are broken record "it's the cable" which is BS. And I still cannot get my AT&T STB to work through the LX503 and that same STB works fine on my prior Pioneer receiver. Pioneer support told me it's AT&T issue yet would not answer why it works with their older receivers. They just don't want to admit anything is broke with the 503.
Thanks, Gary. So you did the "standard mode" thing, which you describe in an earlier email, and that did remove the video dropouts for you?
 

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Thanks, Gary. So you did the "standard mode" thing, which you describe in an earlier email, and that did remove the video dropouts for you?
I have zero black screens in standard mode. I can achieve this with a non-certified many year old HDMI cable. FYI if you start getting green screens you have to power cycle the receiver - unplug it, wait a minute and plug it back into the AC outlet.
 

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I've only ever had blackouts using a long thin active cable (older Monoprice ultra slim) that doesn't officially support 4K 4:4:4 60Hz. When I change my output to 8-bit 420 on my computer the blackouts stop or if I switch to a certified premium cable (Monoprice or BJC) I can use 4K 4:4:4 or RGB without any blackouts. Not saying it's cables for everyone but sometimes it is the cables, which is why support wants to blame them first.
 
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