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Strangeness when switching between MAIN and SUB outputs

I have a Samsung Q7F on the MAIN HDMI out and an Epson projector on the SUB out. After switching to SUB to watch a movie on the projector, I've noticed two strange behaviors:

1. The MAIN is set to use ARC+ and CEC, and even after switching to SUB, if I do anything on the 503, like changing volume, MAIN wakes up the TV. Then I turn off the TV and it puts the 503 to sleep and I have to start my Harmony activity over. The only way I have gotten around this is to just stop using CEC (by turning it off on the TV, a la disabling AnyNet+). Honestly, I don't care much about this issue anymore because I've stopped using the TV's streaming apps, sending them back through ARC to the 503. Instead, have begun using the Roku on the 503 which was originally meant for only projector. Now I use the Roku for both, with both the TV and projectors as dumb monitors. My blood pressure is much lower now, too. But, I do wish there had been a better solution than castrating ARC.

2. When I set the output to SUB and view through the projector, every time I change the volume and the OSD comes up, the picture goes black for a few seconds. This is not 100% of the time, but most of the time. In full disclosure, the video out to the projector from SUB is not a direct HDMI, it's HDMI over CAT6. It works quite well, but I figure I'd throw that in there incase anyone might recognize a know glitch for this amp and such a setup.

And thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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I have a Samsung Q7F on the MAIN HDMI out and an Epson projector on the SUB out. After switching to SUB to watch a movie on the projector, I've noticed two strange behaviors:

1. The MAIN is set to use ARC+ and CEC, and even after switching to SUB, if I do anything on the 503, like changing volume, MAIN wakes up the TV. Then I turn off the TV and it puts the 503 to sleep and I have to start my Harmony activity over. The only way I have gotten around this is to just stop using CEC (by turning it off on the TV, a la disabling AnyNet+). Honestly, I don't care much about this issue anymore because I've stopped using the TV's streaming apps, sending them back through ARC to the 503. Instead, have begun using the Roku on the 503 which was originally meant for only projector. Now I use the Roku for both, with both the TV and projectors as dumb monitors. My blood pressure is much lower now, too. But, I do wish there had been a better solution than castrating ARC.

2. When I set the output to SUB and view through the projector, every time I change the volume and the OSD comes up, the picture goes black for a few seconds. This is not 100% of the time, but most of the time. In full disclosure, the video out to the projector from SUB is not a direct HDMI, it's HDMI over CAT6. It works quite well, but I figure I'd throw that in there incase anyone might recognize a know glitch for this amp and such a setup.

And thoughts?

Thanks.

fiest question: ARC has always been a bit funny. seems more people have problems with it than not. combine that with CEC and your harmony activity (depending on order) wont switch/turn off devices in favor of other devices. i had this same issue and fixed it with turning off CEC on all devices so the harmony controls the devices. once i did that, everything worked perfect and still does. i too stopped using the TV native apps because my blood pressure was getting high having to deal with the sluggish UI and speed of my LG C8. i ended up getting a shield pro to let the 503 send everything out via hdmi. works much better now. i am not sure there is any way around the ARC issues right now. maybe the nee hdmi/eARC will fix it. for now, i think you did what most of us have done to work around the problem.

second question: i am not sure how hdmi over cat6 works. so i dont have an answer, but you may want to test it using a straight hdmi to see if you can replicate the problem to eliminate the CAT6

good luck.


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fiest question: [...] i am not sure there is any way around the ARC issues right now. maybe the nee hdmi/eARC will fix it. for now, i think you did what most of us have done to work around the problem.

second question: i am not sure how hdmi over cat6 works. so i dont have an answer, but you may want to test it using a straight hdmi to see if you can replicate the problem to eliminate the CAT6

good luck.
Thanks for the feedback. I have also thought of the test you recommend, using a direct cable. The projector is over 15 feet away :). I also just though of seeing if there's any way to fiddle with the CAT6 adapters or if just restarting works. If I get the chance, I'll report back.
 

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Multi-zone volume change?

The use case is that I have wired, multi-room audio through which I play music out Main (home theater, surround) speakers in the living room and then out Zone2 for the rest of the house at the same time. If I want to change the volume on my VSX-LX503 for this activity, I first go to main, change the volume to the desired level, take note of the number of times I hit + or -, then switch devices to Zone2 and repeat. It'd be great to just have one command to effect the volumes of both zones. Is there a way to do this with the 503? Whether using the knobs/buttons on the unit itself or the remote, it seems I cannot escape this annoyance.

Two thoughts:

1. Perhaps I'm doing the multi-room audio all wrong with this receiver? Is there some other way I should be wiring this up to gain the volume control ability I seek?

2. Make a macro with my remote such when when I hit the volume, or at least some other assigned button, it changes both volumes. Believe me, I've tried this with my Harmony Hub+950 and have not found a way to do it. I currently have an open support request with Harmony. It's funny, older remotes I've had (both Harmony and otherwise) had very flexible, directly button-assignable macros that made this sort of thing a breeze.

Further setup detail: I have a Sonance SS6VC going to the multi-room speakers which is fed by the amplified Zone2 out (that is, from powered banana jacks and not the pre-out RCA jacks). Soon, I will have a 2-chan amp to better support the Sonance and further safeguard the life of the 503. Either way, I do and will continue to set the Zone2 volume to be variable so that I can control it from the 503.

Thanks.
 

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The use case is that I have wired, multi-room audio through which I play music out Main (home theater, surround) speakers in the living room and then out Zone2 for the rest of the house at the same time....

2. Make a macro with my remote such when when I hit the volume, or at least some other assigned button, it changes both volumes. ...
OK, after weeks of fiddling, of course I only need to ask here to then figure out on my own how to wrangle the Harmony remote :) What we used to call a "macro" is now called a "sequence" with the Harmony hub+remote. Managing them is deeply buried within the Harmony phone app. It is, however, slow and you cannot hold down or repeated slap the volume buttons. I believe this is a "feature" of the remote, and not the Pioneer. You have to hit the volume button, wait for the macro to complete and change things by 0.5dB , hit it again, wait, etc. Somewhat better than nothing I suppose. As this is a Harmony configuration issue, which is larger than this Pioneer question, I won't post all the steps here.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I have also thought of the test you recommend, using a direct cable. The projector is over 15 feet away :). I also just though of seeing if there's any way to fiddle with the CAT6 adapters or if just restarting works. If I get the chance, I'll report back.

you can get a quality hdmi cable pretty cheap. probably wouldnt cost that much if you order it on line.

hit up the cables forum for recommendations. monoprice, bluejeans cable are just a few, but there are others.

that way if the cable isnt the issue, you’re not into it for much and can look towards other solutions.

easiest and cheapest test you probably should start with.

again...good luck!


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Thanks for the feedback. I have also thought of the test you recommend, using a direct cable. The projector is over 15 feet away :). I also just though of seeing if there's any way to fiddle with the CAT6 adapters or if just restarting works. If I get the chance, I'll report back.
For longer runs, use a Series 3 Active from Blue Jeans Cables. I use the 35' one with my Epson 5050, and it works flawlessly.

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No Sub Output when TV is the Source

I just recently have a problem where there is no subwoofer output from the receiver when the TV is the source. This worked fine until just recently. I have the TV hooked to the receiver through an optical connection. I select the TV as source when using apps on the TV.

I went back through the receiver initial setup and all works fine for other sources, but didn't solve the TV source problem. I went through the TV settings LG OLED TV and they are simple and nothing has changed from when this worked.

Do any of you have ideas on things to try?

Regards,
Dave
 

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I just recently have a problem where there is no subwoofer output from the receiver when the TV is the source. This worked fine until just recently. I have the TV hooked to the receiver through an optical connection. I select the TV as source when using apps on the TV.

I went back through the receiver initial setup and all works fine for other sources, but didn't solve the TV source problem. I went through the TV settings LG OLED TV and they are simple and nothing has changed from when this worked.

Do any of you have ideas on things to try?

Regards,
Dave

i would say it is your source if the sub and receiver work fine for other sources.

try reseating the optical cable into the tv and receiver. if that doesnt work i would try a different optical cable. if it still doesnt work i would try a different tv if you have that capability.


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I recently updated my VSX-LX503 to firmware 1071-0000-1060-0011, and now HDR isn't working with my Epson 5040ub, it worked before updating.

Just wondering if anyone else has seen this issue? I did check that the HDMI setting was on enhanced mode. The Epson 5040ub can only output HDR on certain refresh rates, etc. But it did work previously and now it doesn't.
 

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have you guys had any issues with ZONE 2 not working ? I've had my Receiver for 1 year and i finally wired everything for ZONE 2/3 out door speakers. NOW moving forward, i never tested out zone 2. Well , i tried working on it today and for whatever reason, zone2 will NOT WORK, i tried everything i could think of. Switched the wiring to zone 3 and BOOM it worked... what am i doing wrong?
 

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Should there be an icon that lights up on the front panel for Dolby TrueHD? When I play a Dolby TrueHD movie, just the regular Dolby icon lights up.

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Should there be an icon that lights up on the front panel for Dolby TrueHD? When I play a Dolby TrueHD movie, just the regular Dolby icon lights up.

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I don't think so, but you can always press the info button to see exactly which format you're getting.
 

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I don't think so, but you can always press the info button to see exactly which format you're getting.
Yes, I've done that. The input says "TrueHD/Atmos", but the output is just saying "Atmos". Shouldn't the output say "TrueHD/Atmos" too?

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If you mean the tiny format names on the display that light up, I suppose there's only so much space for them, so you only get "Atmos" and I think the Dolby symbol. It's fine.
 

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If you mean the tiny format names on the display that light up, I suppose there's only so much space for them, so you only get "Atmos" and I think the Dolby symbol. It's fine.
No, I mean when I press the info button. It only says Atmos, and not TrueHD/Atmos.

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Has anyone been able to get zone 2 working on this receiver? I have a set of outdoor speakers I would like to use with the unit. On my last pioneer receiver I would set to speaker B and it worked great. That options is now gone. One thing I can't determine is if the 503 requires an external amp for zone 2. I have my outdoor speakers in zone 2 speakers, but when I go to zone 2 and play a source it just comes out the mains. Any advice from anyone who has this working would be appreciated.
 

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No, I mean when I press the info button. It only says Atmos, and not TrueHD/Atmos.

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You should definitely see TrueHD when you press info, if that is in fact the format that's being decoded

I posted a photo, I hope it helps.
3036711
 

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A few months ago I posted about having problems using an HDMI (over CAT5/6) extender between the VSX-LX503 and my Epson Pro Cinema 4050. The issue was with the image blinking out on the projector when changing the volume on the receiver (and occasional, random moments.) After many hours of testing over these months, swapping out ethernet cables, HDMI cables, HDMI extenders, and even swapping out display devices, time on the phone with the projector manufacturer and HDMI extender manufacturers, I have concluded that the VSX-LX503 has some sort of issue with HDMI extenders. The only time time I get this screen blanking is when I use an HDMI extender, regardless of any cabling , display device or extender. The only constant is the receiver. With direct HDMI it's fine.

By the way, I'm pretty sure this started happening after the very last firmware update from mid-2019. I've tried to see if I can downgrade, but I upgraded over the net (in other words, I didn't do it through USB/download and so I do not have the firmware files). If you have any of the following firmware in files, please share:

[1060-8000-1050-0010] As of 4 Jul 2019
[1060-7000-1050-0010] As of 18 Apr 2019
[1050-6000-1040-0010] As of 18 Dec 2018

(Do you think this is legit? Firmware Pioneer VSX-LX303/LX503 1060-7000-1050-0010)

Anyhow, a few months and a few hundred dollars later, I'm out of ideas and feel thoroughly defeated. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly welcomed.

If anyone is using an HDMI extender with a Pioneer VSX-LX503 and it works flawlessly, please let me know what you're using.
 
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