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Hi, thought I’d post in here to try to get some advice, My current setup is a pair of B&W 805 D3’s, an HTM2D3, Rotel RSP-1576MKII (Pre/Pro), Rotel RMB-1585 (Amp) and an SVS SB1000 (12 in.) sub. My room is relatively small, 10x11 with Bass traps in 3 of the four corners (one of them has a door hence the 3). My usage is probably 60% Music, 40% HT Movies.

I haven’t been too thrilled with the SVS SB1000 they recommended to me, I was told to try to get the largest woofer driver I could. I find it rattles a lot and the bass isn’t all that great, sometimes the bass from my 805 d3’s alone is better (Music). I had an SVS in the past which was pretty good but in a dedicated larger theater room. That being said, I’ve read Rel’s are exceptional subwoofers with the neutronik connection which I understand is primarily for music. I see the Rel T/5i is an 8” with 125W RMS And the T7/i is an 8” but with a passive 10” driver down Firing? At 200W RMS. I’m thinking for the size of my room I don’t really need a 12” driver but rather a better smaller driver? My budget is anywhere around 600-1,000ish At least that’s where I’d like to keep it. I could do dual T/5’s or one larger/better in the series.

Sorry if its TLDR, just looking for some sound advice here.
 

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Hi, thought I’d post in here to try to get some advice, My current setup is a pair of B&W 805 D3’s, an HTM2D3, Rotel RSP-1576MKII (Pre/Pro), Rotel RMB-1585 (Amp) and an SVS SB1000 (12 in.) sub. My room is relatively small, 10x11 with Bass traps in 3 of the four corners (one of them has a door hence the 3). My usage is probably 60% Music, 40% HT Movies.

I haven’t been too thrilled with the SVS SB1000 they recommended to me, I was told to try to get the largest woofer driver I could. I find it rattles a lot and the bass isn’t all that great, sometimes the bass from my 805 d3’s alone is better (Music). I had an SVS in the past which was pretty good but in a dedicated larger theater room. That being said, I’ve read Rel’s are exceptional subwoofers with the neutronik connection which I understand is primarily for music. I see the Rel T/5i is an 8” with 125W RMS And the T7/i is an 8” but with a passive 10” driver down Firing? At 200W RMS. I’m thinking for the size of my room I don’t really need a 12” driver but rather a better smaller driver? My budget is anywhere around 600-1,000ish At least that’s where I’d like to keep it. I could do dual T/5’s or one larger/better in the series.

Sorry if its TLDR, just looking for some sound advice here.
I have a single REL T5 paired with KEF LSX in a small study ... for my environment it is perfect... the 805's are much nicer speakers, and for the HT use, you could use more low end power... dual subs will always perform better... I'm swapping my single 15" 1500 watt monitor audio gold sub in the HT setup with dual REL T9's... I've ordered them a while ago, but they are not here yet, so I can't comment on how they perform in my room yet... but dual always better than single, specially for music ....

using the subwoofer pairing tool for the 805, REL recommends for a small room like yours dual S/512's.... or a single S/512 .... so a T/9i should be the smallest you probably should go, one below the 512.....

all that said, I'm pretty happy with the T5i and it blends amazingly well in my small setup ... I have the Tzero also... and it wasn't as good as the t5 for the LSX... it improves the sound for sure, but the t5 worked well blending in with the LSX ...
 

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LG OLED77CX, B&W 805 D3, HTM2D3, ARCAM AV40, PA720
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I got my two t5i’s and wow let me say, immediate difference in bass extension. i only have them maybe less than a quarter in volume and only via the high level speaker terminal. Question, if running Dirac live, will it see multriple subs to take measurement I know about BassControl but my pre-amp doesn’t support that yet. I guess I’m asking since the sub is only connected via the ugh level terminals how does Dirac see the subs,l
 

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What driver do REL use in the R-328 or what would be the best replacement?
 

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Order a S510 to go with my B&W 805s the other day..


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Naim provided an explanation that is reasonable and acceptable to me. They may design their amps to work differently, but they sound fantastic. Naim also recommends using their own speaker cable, which I do. It has the electrical characteristics to load the amp's speaker terminals correctly. Naim says by doing it that way, they can eliminate some output stage electronics that normally introduce noise (or something like that). I don't know nor understand all the details.


I'm pretty sure REL is aware of the Naim requirements.


I did initially connect the REL high level output to my Naim amp speaker terminals and as Naim claims, it did cause stability issues. Sometimes the sub would start pumping in a feedback loop. Part of that comes from my analog front end (which now has a low pass filter), but it happened with my digital front end too. Once I moved the connection to the speaker terminals (inconvenient) it worked better and I have had no issues. I switched to using the low level input for cable convenience.
I hope you have changed this since you posted your response. If you haven't you are missing half of your subwoofers capabilities. This sub is designed to be used in two applications; first is Home Theater which is connected through the RCA cable from the sub out on your pre amp. Secondly the Speakon cable is simply a voltage wire from your amps speaker bindings to the sub. Now. Here's the thing you want to make sure you do is to not use the crossovers on your pre amp or receiver and only set your crossovers on the subs. This leaves your mains full range with the boost of the sub to cover freqs the speaker can't manage. When in 2.1 or 2.2 and listening to music the .1 LFE isn't being utilized. When in HT the .1 is the contributor. Best of both worlds and if you haven't gotten this you're missing out.
 

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I have a similar situation with Naim amplification and REL Acoustic subwoofer. I have the Naim SuperNAIT 3 which I very much enjoy powering the Dyn Special 40’s.

I purchased a REL T7i and wanted to use the supplied high level cable. There are no speaker posts on the back of the Naim Integrated amp. I tried connecting the black/red/yellow wires to the speaker cables going in to the back of the amp - serious hum.

I wrote an email to REL, and received helpful and thorough responses. Unfortunately the #1 suggestion was the Blue Line cable that is especially helpful for Naim amps, but I didn’t want to spend another $450 after spending $900 on the sub.

So, I’m currently connecting the high level cable to the speaker wire terminals at the back of the Special 40’s, and the sub is operating just fine - no hum, no issues - and as far as I can figure - I’m still getting the benefit of the high level connection though it isn’t at the back of the amp. I may be wrong about that, but it appears to be working fine.


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I wrote an email to REL, and received helpful and thorough responses. Unfortunately the #1 suggestion was the Blue Line cable that is especially helpful for Naim amps, but I didn’t want to spend another $450 after spending $900 on the sub.
If REL can charge $450 for something that you can get for less than $50, we can at least think how much their subs are overpriced ;)
This is from UK, but you should be able to find something similar in the USA:
- REL / MJ Acoustics 3 Wire Sub Speaker Cable. Neutrik Speakon to Bare end. Subwoofer

You can even build it yourself, its just a simple Neutrik speakon connector and a cable :)
 

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If REL can charge $450 for something that you can get for less than $50, we can at least think how much their subs are overpriced ;)
This is from UK, but you should be able to find something similar in the USA:
- REL / MJ Acoustics 3 Wire Sub Speaker Cable. Neutrik Speakon to Bare end. Subwoofer

You can even build it yourself, its just a simple Neutrik speakon connector and a cable :)
Thanks for that - I’ll certainly have that as an option if I want to redo my set up. The cable that came with the REL is working fine with my set up as I have it wired currently. But you are correct - a few parts can be put together to recreate the supplied cable - a buddy sent me the wiring diagram, etc of the neutrik connector.


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I hope you have changed this since you posted your response. If you haven't you are missing half of your subwoofers capabilities. This sub is designed to be used in two applications; first is Home Theater which is connected through the RCA cable from the sub out on your pre amp. Secondly the Speakon cable is simply a voltage wire from your amps speaker bindings to the sub. Now. Here's the thing you want to make sure you do is to not use the crossovers on your pre amp or receiver and only set your crossovers on the subs. This leaves your mains full range with the boost of the sub to cover freqs the speaker can't manage. When in 2.1 or 2.2 and listening to music the .1 LFE isn't being utilized. When in HT the .1 is the contributor. Best of both worlds and if you haven't gotten this you're missing out.
I don't use my RELs for home theater at all. Only in my two channel Naim system. My two stereo pair REL R-328s are connected between the speaker terminals and the REL speakon (high level) connectors. I have a Naim 300DR amp and connecting the REL high level connectors to the Naim amp's terminals is not recommended, unless one uses the naim-specific version of the REL Blue cables. I don't have them and don't plan to get them either.
 

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Hi, I have a chance to buy two 1205 or one 1508, what would be better for a 50/50 music/movie set up, Also, Im guessing Rel is better than SVS as far as sound quality right? Thank you!! (My fronts are 803 diamonds, with rear and center also in the 800 series. I currently own a Supercube Reference from 2008)
 
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