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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik /forum/post/17885643


The next reasonable size down for me is actually 8" with full servo control below 200hz. There are some good transducers out there (coaxial, ribbon, to name a few) that can benefit from this type of extended bass units.

Are you saying that a well designed 8" would be a better than a 10"
 

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On the F15 with the A300 amp, is it still a Direct Servo amp? Also, does the A300 say Direct Servo on the amp plate?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick240 /forum/post/17886200


Are you saying that a well designed 8" would be a better than a 10"

That is not what I meant. What I meant was if smaller enclosure is desirable, one may use a smaller enclosure with 12" driver and in terms of output, it would be similar to a well designed 10" in the same enclosure size. 10" driver has a smaller cone area and therefore can move the cone easier (air spring force is smaller). Since output is a product of cone area and excursion, the output comes out to be similar between 10" and 12". However, if the goal is to extend the upper end extension limit, 10" driver is only an incremental improvement over 12" and an 8" driver is more promising. Anyway, I understand the need for 10" drivers. I would


I am also looking for a good caned transducer solution for frequencies above 200hz. Let me know if anyone finds one. The three 8" drivers can be easily put into a 28" stand height enclosures and crossover at 200hz.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by monomer /forum/post/17885171


Because of the location of my subs, it would have been nice to have it on remote control though. Hey Brian, ever consider doing this?

Several customers asked. I have thought about that. It would be nice if we can have a display in the front plus a remote control. But I need help on that. Anyone good at writing PIC microcode shoots me an email.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik /forum/post/17889686


However, if the goal is to extend the upper end extension limit, 10" driver is only an incremental improvement over 12" and an 8" driver is more promising. Anyway, I understand the need for 10" drivers.

For me at least, the goal is best possible under 100Hz musical bass in the smallest possible enclosure; so if I understand than a 10" driver in a 12" cube (like the new Emotiva Ultra10) would likely be better than an 8" driver in the same size box. Would adding a 8" passive radiator (like the Mosscade Titan 5.5) make a big difference, or a second 8" driver (like the Aperion Bravus 8D)?


It is this truly small but musical sub area that I wondered if you had ever considered entering.


I understand that there is only so much time and energy, so a dual-15 would be a more natural extension of your products; just wondering (and continuing to enjoy my F12 in my other space)...
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik /forum/post/17889703


It would be nice if we can have a display in the front plus a remote control. But I need help on that. Anyone good at writing PIC microcode shoots me an email.

That would be sweet.


Brian, what about a 15" dual PR setup that would give that great
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by neekos /forum/post/17889524


Anyone own an F12 or F15 with the A300 amp ? If so, what are your impressions.


Thanks

I have the F12G (the GR research paper cone driver) with the A300 amp. My receiver has Audyssey MultEQ and I didn't have any major peaks or valleys that would require a secondary EQ, so I passed on the A370. The A300 has been great for me. I am thrilled with it. I purchased the configuration with the paper cone driver because I needed a slightly higher crossover point (I have smaller Energy mains). It blends seamlessly with no localization. Bass is very tight as you might expect and goes plenty low. I made the purchase based more on my musical preferences, but trust me it has plenty of SPL ability for home theater in my room (about 3500 cubic feet). Lots of impact but with superior sound quality. It truly is a wonderfully musical subwoofer. If you have a capable receiver and don't need the PEQ, I would opt for the A300 and save the money. I couldn't be happier with mine.
 

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brian


im looking/thinking of diff setups.. if i would start from 0/scratch id just go with 2x f15se in front left/right corners and it would be easier to stack 2x more f15se down the road but since i got d15se (18" by 18") how about stacking f12se (15-3/4" x 17") on top of d15se ? and that would be 2x d15se front left/right corners + f12se stacked on top of each d15se


would you recommend this combo/setup ?


i would rather stack f15se on top of d15se if measurements would fit
 

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Is anyone using multiple subs that they've connected using the balanced XLR inputs/outputs via the "Source In" and "Slave In" plate amp connections?


After reading Dr Floyd Toole's latest book I'm sold on the idea that 4 subs is the way to go for best small room bass. Given the length of cable runs it's likely XLR would be better than RCA and I'm planning on putting a professional studio analogue Parametric EQ upstream of the 4 subs to attenuate bass mode peaks with 5 seperate EQ's per channel.


My understanding is that in using the Source In/Slave In that the source's sub volume control also controls the slave's volume, which may not be a good idea if the two rear subs are closer to the listening position than the front 2 subs. . .


Finally, how does one set up 4 subs -> do you set up all 4 at the same volume relative to the listening chair and then match the main's volume dB to the sub's volume dB?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmst3 /forum/post/17895883


My kind of room!



Too much is never enough.

Is too much just right?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by monomer /forum/post/17885171


How many of you have played with the bass extension controls (amp tuning)? Or is everybody just stuck on 14Hz and Hi damping?


For my set up music sounds best there, however I find a bit more bass "kick" for movies with the damping on Low (however it feels just a little too flabby with music). What's been your experiences?

I've tried 14Hz with Hi, Med and Low damping. Didn't like "Low" due to being too flabby as you said. I'm running "Hi" for music and "Med" for movies.


I also tried 20Hz, but I felt that 14Hz gave me a marginally better feel.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinzoe /forum/post/17893856


My understanding is that in using the Source In/Slave In that the source's sub volume control also controls the slave's volume, which may not be a good idea if the two rear subs are closer to the listening position than the front 2 subs. . .

On the other hand, when the volume are set the same for all units, all subs will max out at the same point. Otherwise, you may have some units working harder than others and they becomes the bottleneck.


When using master/slave configuration, the slave unit follows the master except the phase control. That means each slave unit can have a different delay respect to master unit. Keep in mind we can only add delay on the plate amp and AVR can add and subtract a common delay to all units. There is a bit of planing here in terms of delay.
 

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OK right now I'm upgrading to an MFW-15 from a Bic H-100, would a rhythmic be the next logical step forward from the MFW-15? Considering I'm looking for detail and musicality?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclepauly /forum/post/17907895


OK right now I'm upgrading to an MFW-15 from a Bic H-100, would a rhythmic be the next logical step forward from the MFW-15? Considering I'm looking for detail and musicality?

Yes, absolutely. my 15 is a perfect match for my maggie 1.6..
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by monomer /forum/post/17885171


How many of you have played with the bass extension controls (amp tuning)? Or is everybody just stuck on 14Hz and Hi damping?


For my set up music sounds best there, however I find a bit more bass "kick" for movies with the damping on Low (however it feels just a little too flabby with music). What's been your experiences?

Because of the location of my subs, it would have been nice to have it on remote control though. Hey Brian, ever consider doing this?

For most music and all movies I leave mine set at 14Hz/High. On some poorly recorded (IMO) music, I'll flip the switch to either 20Hz or 28Hz, but in all cases I use high damping. Just love the tightness the high setting provides.
 
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