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You need to take some in-room pics and use them. Like me! ;)

Man it's really killing me not ordering a second FV18. I know I don't need it, the output I have right now is more than I can use. But I really do want a companion for this little guy. I have a baby coming in like 10 days so while I know I should focus on that, I feel like the window is closing for a while on a second one.
 

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Any recommendations for good quality XLR to RCA for run of 35-40 feet.
BJC LC1 for the entire run, with the shortest RCA to XLR adapter from Monoprice. I used those with my pro audio amp and they worked really well......my 97dB sensitive pro audio subs were dead silent.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4775

Whatever you do, don't get the cheap "premium" Monoprice cables. And I wouldn't use Monoprice for the whole run but rather the BJC as they are much better quality and will help keep noise/hum out of your subs.
 

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You need to take some in-room pics and use them. Like me! ;)

Man it's really killing me not ordering a second FV18. I know I don't need it, the output I have right now is more than I can use. But I really do want a companion for this little guy. I have a baby coming in like 10 days so while I know I should focus on that, I feel like the window is closing for a while on a second one.
Congrats! Is it your first? If so, buy it now as your life is about to get turned upside down for a while. :).

Then if you add to the clan it gets to be even more hectic. Lol. My 4 and 7 year olds keep us VERY busy.
 

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Congrats! Is it your first? If so, buy it now as your life is about to get turned upside down for a while. :).
"Just when I thought I was out...They pull me back in!"

Thanks. I have a 15 year old. She's awesome. But I got divorced and remarried to a woman 10 years younger and she wanted a child. So, here we are. Doing it all over again in my 40s. Thankfully this child will grow up in a world where a Rythmik FV18PC subwoofer exists in her life from the start.
 

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Any recommendations for good quality XLR to RCA for run of 35-40 feet.
This looks like a really good find if the available lengths work. Quality and price both seem really good.
 

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This looks like a really good find if the available lengths work. Quality and price both seem really good.
I was thinking the same. High quality cable and connectors for not much money. If I didn’t already have BJ LC1 I’d pick these up.

Edit: I might pick some up just to try for the heck of it.
 

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BJC LC1 for the entire run, with the shortest RCA to XLR adapter from Monoprice. I used those with my pro audio amp and they worked really well......my 97dB sensitive pro audio subs were dead silent.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=4775

Whatever you do, don't get the cheap "premium" Monoprice cables. And I wouldn't use Monoprice for the whole run but rather the BJC as they are much better quality and will help keep noise/hum out of your subs.
Just to add, I use the Bluerigger RCA cables from Amazon, in lengths up to 35 feet. I can't explain if there are any technical differences, but my Rythmiks were always quiet. 0 issues. That may speak to either the quality of the cable or the quality of Rythmik amps, or both.
 

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Looking for some advice on smoothing out some nulls at my MLP (first image). The nulls exist all along the couch but seem to move a little in frequency, with one being between 45-50hz and the other ~60hz. I can't really move the subs unfortunately, but if it might help I could flip them to lay on their opposite side (they're laying horizontally atm) I could do that. They're also currently hooked into the LFE port, so I was considering switching to the LINE-IN and messing with the phase to see if it helped at all.





I also shoved one of my old SVS PC-2000s behind my couch (it fits in very well next to the sofa table) and hooked up the wireless signal that goes to my Dayton amp that feeds the buttkicker on the couch. When I did that the nulls were completely eliminated. Would it be worth investing in a 2x4 HD and trying to integrate them? The signal it gets right now is just a copy of one of the subwoofers that gets split off from the AVR.

 

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I would take 2 FV18-PC over a single FV25. While output might be similar, the dual sub option will give you a much flatter frequency response.
To be fair, that's could give a flatter response. It all depends upon the room, placement and tuning. Have a deficit with any one of those and the response at the listening position(s) will likely not benefit.
 
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Looking for some advice on smoothing out some nulls at my MLP (first image). The nulls exist all along the couch but seem to move a little in frequency, with one being between 45-50hz and the other ~60hz. I can't really move the subs unfortunately, but if it might help I could flip them to lay on their opposite side (they're laying horizontally atm) I could do that. They're also currently hooked into the LFE port, so I was considering switching to the LINE-IN and messing with the phase to see if it helped at all.



I also shoved one of my old SVS PC-2000s behind my couch (it fits in very well next to the sofa table) and hooked up the wireless signal that goes to my Dayton amp that feeds the buttkicker on the couch. When I did that the nulls were completely eliminated. Would it be worth investing in a 2x4 HD and trying to integrate them? The signal it gets right now is just a copy of one of the subwoofers that gets split off from the AVR.

What you've discovered is that a sub at the rear of the room will fill in those nulls and complement your front sub's efforts - which is exactly why I set subs up that way. I think it's worth going down that path, but always listen to ensure it sounds good. I got a great measurement with a sub right behind my seat, but I didn't like the way it sounded.
 

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This looks like a really good find if the available lengths work. Quality and price both seem really good.
I made my own RCA to XLR adapters with Amphenol RCAs, Mogami 2964 Coaxial Cable and Neutrik XLRs.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1033734-REG/amphenol_acpr_blk_rca_plug_diecast_shell_flex_colored.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/421357-REG/Neutrik_NC3MX_B_NC3MXB_3_Pin_XLR_Connector.html

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/GoldXLRMRCA06--mogami-gold-xlrm-rca-06

You get 8 adapters out of 1 x 6' Mogami Gold XLRM to RCAM cable.

Total for 8 adapters is $98 ($12.25 each)
 

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What you've discovered is that a sub at the rear of the room will fill in those nulls and complement your front sub's efforts - which is exactly why I set subs up that way. I think it's worth going down that path, but always listen to ensure it sounds good. I got a great measurement with a sub right behind my seat, but I didn't like the way it sounded.
Well that's all I needed as an excuse to get a 2x4HD to play with, and to keep my old subs around. I'll have to look for some guides on how to do that properly. What did you not like about the way subs behind the MLP sounded? My current one is off to the right of the couch (facing forwards on the couch) about 2 inches behind it. If the directionality is an issue I still have my other sub I could put to flank either side of the couch. Then again this may all be overkill of overkill...
 

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Well that's all I needed as an excuse to get a 2x4HD to play with, and to keep my old subs around. I'll have to look for some guides on how to do that properly. What did you not like about the way subs behind the MLP sounded? My current one is off to the right of the couch (facing forwards on the couch) about 2 inches behind it. If the directionality is an issue I still have my other sub I could put to flank either side of the couch. Then again this may all be overkill of overkill...
The sub right behind my seat told me it was there at all times. Against the back wall it was transparent and became part of the room. It will have an easier time with the boundary gain against the wall, too. Out into the room, a sub has to work harder.

Sorry if I missed it, but what AVR?
 
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how does the newer FVX15 with 4" ports compare to the older FV15HP on data-bass?

I thought I read somewhere recently it wasn't much of an output change as much as to lower the chuffing in ULF. I'm probably wrong about that, though. I also thought it was merely a 4" flare and not a full change to the entire lengths of the port.
 
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how does the newer FVX15 with 4" ports compare to the older FV15HP on data-bass?
According to what I understand, the new port caps didn't necessarily change max output, but did reduce audible chuffing by reducing port turbulence. In other words, chuffing occurs at about 1.5db higher SPL than with the old port caps.

Also, the Rythmik website lists the FV15HP as having a 3 db advantage over the FVX15 at 20hz. I know the HP version has 200 more watts, but I'm not sure if there are other differences that affect performance.
 
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Any recommendations for good quality XLR to RCA for run of 35-40 feet.
Hi,

While many gave you some good recommendation, and do use myself 4 XLR to RCA cables from my AVP to my second Amp for the Atmos duty speakers.
They are short (3ft), and would had use RCA if it was not of a hiss problem. From my Marantz AVP, when using the RCA outputs. That could be either a bad component on my AVP, or since I was using XLR connections for all my other connections on my system.

The purpose of XLR cables. Is to be able to produce a clean signal, for a long distance without degradation in the signal and minimum ground noise. Having an XLR to RCA cable, for a long run defeat that purpose. While both XLR and RCA, can be shield. The XLR is a balance cable, and the RCA is unbalance;
https://www.techwalla.com/articles/what-is-an-xlr-cable

While it can be done, having an XLR to RCA still give an unbalance connection. But sometime due a hiss problem from the source like mine, or ease of connection. It is the only solution we have. Since you have such a long run, perhaps using good quality subs RCA cable/s from BJC;
https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/subwoofer/index.htm
Is your best option, and can recommend the proper cable/s for you. Since they also have excellent quality and good Customer Service.


Darth
 

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The sub right behind my seat told me it was there at all times. Against the back wall it was transparent and became part of the room. It will have an easier time with the boundary gain against the wall, too. Out into the room, a sub has to work harder.

Sorry if I missed it, but what AVR?
Ya, I can see that being obnoxious. If I use it, my port(s) will be facing semi-at the wall behind the couch. I'm using a Denon X3600H. Those measurements that I provided were after Audyssey was run for the two subs.
 
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