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I’m just curious if there are any former PSA owners that crossed over to Rythmik that could share their experience.
I auditioned the V1512 for maybe six weeks. It didn't perform in my room how I had hoped. I previously had an eD A5-350 which had a 500 watt amp and 15" driver and port tune at 20Hz and it honestly outperformed the V1512. I didn't feel I gained much output. It did sound fantastic. But dropped hard below 20Hz.

I didn't think the V1812 was going to give me what I wanted and I frankly didn't like the slot port. I couldn't or wouldn't afford to go up to PSA's bigger subs. I would probably just go to JTR anyway at that point. This was before the new TV18 and TV15 models were announced.

So I ended up where I should have started to begin with, Rythmik FV18. It's a beast. It's awesome. I couldn't be happier with the overall output, clarity, and sound for HT and music. I have a link in my signature with a more thorough impressions thread.
 

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Sweet response, man. I bet that sounds amazing. I know what it's like because I managed to get flat with my F12s (5 dB increments):

View attachment 2733374

Hopefully my speakers benefit in the 100-300 Hz range when my bass traps get here. Small rooms make a mess of that range.
Yeah it does. My first pic is with 5db increments. For some reason REW flips to 10db when I snap a pic
 

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Hey all! I’m a current owner of a PSA V3600I and am eyeing the Rythmik FV25HP. I’m just curious if there are any former PSA owners that crossed over to Rythmik that could share their experience. Based on the data, it appears the FV25HP would match the output of my PSA, but give me better low end performance.
You think correct. The ULF will not even be close
 

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This is an interesting discussion. I did not consider the SBIR of the ports as well, which makes sense they would have that, but would be tuned to a specific frequency range, unlike the driver. I guess the downside could be the wavelength that correlates to 1/2 the port distance to the floor could be cancelled - is that a concern? It may not be because the distance is still relatively short and thus would correspond to much higher frequencies, above the low port tuning of these subs. Is tactile response reduced? Possibly...



In most cases it's best to get the driver close to the floor and/or walls for the smoothest response. Maybe if laying on its side and operating with a port plugged, experimenting with plugging the bottom or top port produces a different effect.
On the contrary, when subs are tested it happens in an open area. With the walls the Bass Response does increase but the bass may become boomy and muddy. While it's desirable to have room modes helping a low level sub (something with a - 3db at 30Hz) i dont really see anyone here needing them. Fact of the matter is, my subs produce an almost 20db gain peaking at about 25hz and I hated it. Filtered most of the things through minidsp and now I'm happier.

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Words I thought I'd never, ever hear on AVS from anyone, ever (other than myself! :eek:). Good for you. Patience is a virtue.
Well, just noticed CMX-6 came back in stock. I don't need the extra plugs, but for $40 bucks more, happy to give up a little virtue. :D
 

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Well, just noticed CMX-6 came back in stock. I don't need the extra plugs, but for $40 bucks more, happy to give up a little virtue. :D
The CMX-6 doesn’t have DC Offset eliminator filter.
 
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On the contrary, when subs are tested it happens in an open area. With the walls the Bass Response does increase but the bass may become boomy and muddy. While it's desirable to have room modes helping a low level sub (something with a - 3db at 30Hz) i dont really see anyone here needing them. Fact of the matter is, my subs produce an almost 20db gain peaking at about 25hz and I hated it. Filtered most of the things through minidsp and now I'm happier.
The key is getting them into the right location along the wall. Center is best to avoid peaks. The response I posted above was with center of wall placement, front and back.

If you put a sub any distance from a wall in a home interior, you will get SBIR at lower frequencies. Putting it against the wall pushes the cancellation frequencies up so high they are out of band.
 

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Professional drivers vs non-professional drivers

I got a few questions from chucks0, maybe bear123 and others will be interested and therefore I think it is best I post here. I will post them in a mini series.

When I look at the drivers that Josh has tested on his databass site, I notice a trend: there is a competition of force-factor (which is BL^2/Re). I want to warn that those drivers are not suitable for low tune subwoofers. Some 15 years ago Steve C. has advocated LLT (large Low Tune) ported subs. His conclusion at that time is the drivers suitable for such alignment need to have higher Qts. If the Q value is too low, it actually constricts the SPL output at low frequencies bands. In fact, it can be explained in mathematics in terms of force factor, or specially BL value. Steve C. commented the impact is via Qts value, but in fact it is via BL value. LLT need a driver with moderate BL value, lower output from such driver in a ported subwoofers can be made up in enclosure size and large enclosures accommodate larger ports, so there is no catch. That is the physical part of the vented sub design. Now servo comes into picture. Servo can make the BL value of the drivers to "appear" (in what we call equivalent circuit) to be a much higher BL value driver. So why do we want that? Because high BL value actually sound "faster" by having better cone control (if the drivers do not suffer from other problem such as low Vas). In short, servo enable a sound quality that matches the high BL drivers, but without the shortcoming of max SPL loss from high BL value drivers. Of course the other advantage of servo is it has the most consistent frequency response across the bass frequency band. Josh publish the "compression" plots. He uses 90db as baseline and plot the variation of frequency response at each 5db increment. Then he also does this "repeat" to show after the most intense playback (in his test), if the first 90db frequency plot can be replicated in his 2nd sweep. If not, that means the sub has one form of memory effect (there are others), meaning the frequency response at current moment depends on what one has played some few seconds ago. That is not good, isn't it? In each one of the subs we submitted for test, the compression is zero except in frequency bands where amp running out of juice or at around port tuning where port compression can play a factor. Memory effect is one issue plaguing transducer. So thermal is one form of memory effect. Another memory effect is spider/surround hysteresis. It is there. How do we demonstrate that? Use a marker on the voice coil. Then one can observe the following: first pull the cone up and then release, then observe the rest position using the marker; second, push the cone down and then release. One will notice the resting positions in these two cases are different. It is not huge, in the range of 0.5-1 mm. But such hysteresis manifests itself at say midbass where it does not take large cone excursion to get high SPL, it will become very audible, in the form of muddy bass sound. Again servo can help reduce the effect of such hysteresis by reducing the distortion/memory effect caused by this hysteresis. A low Vas driver has a stiffer spider/surround which in turn requires a larger correction force.

[EDIT] The discussion of the above Qts or Q in terms of how they impact low end output is actually via the BL value. I have corrected accordingly.
 

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You are in Houston, right? If yes, you can demo my FV25HP. Pretty sure you can also demo @imureh pair of FV18s paper cone. That would give an idea of what you can expect in your room.
Yep, I’m 30 miles east of downtown. I’m pretty sure the F25HP is the way to go. I’ve liked my PSA and was pretty set on replacing it with the V3612, which also has 2) 18” drivers like my V3600I, but I’m not sure if it will have the extension In looking for.
 

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Yep, I’m 30 miles east of downtown. I’m pretty sure the F25HP is the way to go. I’ve liked my PSA and was pretty set on replacing it with the V3612, which also has 2) 18” drivers like my V3600I, but I’m not sure if it will have the extension In looking for.
Looks like we are in opposite sides of Greater Houston. I'm 30 miles west of downtown (Katy). Same as @imureh but I guess we can schedule a demo/visit when this COVID-19 madness gets to a safer point for human interaction ;)
 

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The CMX-6 doesn’t have DC Offset eliminator filter.
Yep... go with the CMX-2 and just use a high quality PDU along with it if you need more outlets. You can also make your own PDU that will likely be better than most anything you can buy. Pangea Audio has some nice quality PDU's but no on/off switch. I made my own because I wanted to be able to switch everything off.
 

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Looks like we are in opposite sides of Greater Houston. I'm 30 miles west of downtown (Katy). Same as @imureh but I guess we can schedule a demo/visit when this COVID-19 madness gets to a safer point for human interaction ;)

I'm 20 miles north (Spring area) - single E15. Happy to demo in the future, as well.
 
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Looks like we are in opposite sides of Greater Houston. I'm 30 miles west of downtown (Katy). Same as @imureh but I guess we can schedule a demo/visit when this COVID-19 madness gets to a safer point for human interaction ;)

So a three hour drive before the madness?


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Hi,

While Amazon do sell some, the OP want a 40fts length that I did not see been available.
Another advantage of ordering directly from BJC, you do have few options for the cable and connecter.
And can order the exact length you need, for not having to deal an extra length that is not needed:)


Darth

My F18s were delivered on Wednesday, May 13th. I ordered my BJC RCA cables on Friday the 8th and they were delivered on the 12th. I paid $5 for two-day shipping.


I might order a longer power cord in case I need to pull the right sub out without unplugging it (it is barely long enough with the sub in place). Would an inexpensive 8' cord from Monoprice be okay?
 

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I now have a FV15HP on the way. Thanks to Enrico, chucks0, bear, Imureh, and others who answered my questions about Rythmik subs. I am also happy to support a company run by a fellow Ph.D. in EE.

I am still in the process of selling my existing 15" subwoofer, so I will have a perfect opportunity for a sighted A/B comparison. I already have an idea of what I expect the outcome to be, but I will go in with an open mind as much as possible. I really hope the FV15HP will provide the extension that I am currently missing in essentially the same footprint as my existing sub.
 

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My F18s were delivered on Wednesday, May 13th. I ordered my BJC RCA cables on Friday the 8th and they were delivered on the 12th. I paid $5 for two-day shipping.


I might order a longer power cord in case I need to pull the right sub out without unplugging it (it is barely long enough with the sub in place). Would an inexpensive 8' cord from Monoprice be okay?

How long is the power cord? I am hoping at least 6'.
 

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I now have a FV15HP on the way. Thanks to Enrico, chucks0, bear, Imureh, and others who answered my questions about Rythmik subs. I am also happy to support a company run by a fellow Ph.D. in EE.

I am still in the process of selling my existing 15" subwoofer, so I will have a perfect opportunity for a sighted A/B comparison. I already have an idea of what I expect the outcome to be, but I will go in with an open mind as much as possible. I really hope the FV15HP will provide the extension that I am currently missing in essentially the same footprint as my existing sub.
I am certain it will - there are none better on the market anywhere near the size and price point.
 

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