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And you are correct Sir:)

For the folks that do not know why, I don't use a miniDSP. Here's some of the reasons;
-I do not own a I-pad/tablet or even a smart phone, just a plain PC and a Flip Flop phone.
-Anything computer stuff related for program get me frustrated.
-Do not want to use any other cables, than my XLR for a balance signal.
-While there is one version of miniPSD, that can be use for a balance signal, it require to have some bare wires since it does not accept XLR connections;

The reason, I use the LFE input with my FV18's input. Than rely on my Audyssey XT-32 for calibration, and did added a 3dB boost at 60Hz with the PEQ, with the maximum bandwidth. And did work well for me, before with my previous Marantz AV7702mkII until it lost left front channel. While now, I got a new AV7705 and did a calibration last week. I am back to square one, for experimenting to use or not the PEQ.

Darth

I use LINE IN because it has less bandwidth than LFE IN so it has less background noise. Sometimes you can hear "male vocals" coming out of the subwoofer when using LFE IN. That does not happens when using LINE IN. Also, I get better integration with my mains when using LINE IN compared with LFE IN. I have my three subwoofer running through a miniDSP 2x4 HD, though. Regarding damping, that is mostly personal preference. I have always had and still have all my Rythmik subs in High Damping and lower Freq for everything.
On this point, for less background/hiss noise. It is the main reason, I do not want any other cables than my XLR ones from my previous post.

That said, good information's for majority of folks using RCA connections.

Darth
 

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I like big cones and I cannot lie !
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Super helpful. Thank you! I was planning on using high damping as well. And you’ve convinced me to use the Line In input.

Oh come on, there was no convincing. I bet you try both options before youre done just to see if we were right or not. There is no way in He11 you dont. You wont be able to resist. Im starting a "squares" betting chart. Ive got 10 bucks on 45 minutes. Thats how long after powering it up that you will have the LFE in ports stuffed full of cable. Place your bets. Ive got 10 on 45, and another 5 on 20 minutes. :whistle:

EDIT: I realize emotion is a tough thing to convey over text. Even with smileys and whistling dude. This is all in fun. I'm just poking @yourmando in the rib for fun. Darn forum has been slow the last day or 2. Ill run the squares bet though ;) We just cant tell @yourmando until they come back with the final elapsed time before they connected to the LFE in. I might slide my square a bit to add some unknown to the poster. Who's in?

EDIT II: Monopoly money of course. Interstate gambling is illegal in some states. :D
 

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I was outside this afternoon and decided to open the windows and turn up some music. The first song I put on was Old Town Road and the deep bass came through louder than expected. Then I put on Bass I Love You and holy $%@* my window flexed rapidly during the 17hz note!! Apparently I had raised the volume to -13db (my trim is set to +2db). I am grateful for the limiter and rumble filter. I should probably change the damping from low to medium, but I do like low damping for movies.
 

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I've also had lower male vocals coming from the subs when using higher crossovers, which causes a loss of clarity. I'm very critical when setting up my subs with music. As I explained, in the past I used the Line In input to roll off the subs faster and clean that up, but in a surround setup where your surround speakers are smaller than the fronts and will use a higher crossover, we have to use LFE In to avoid creating a hole where bass from the surrounds gets redirected to the subs, only to be filtered out at the subs. Therefore, recently my compromise was a 60 Hz crossover with LFE In (disables filtering at subwoofer level) from the front stage and then you can do whatever you want elsewhere, such as 80 or 100 Hz for the surrounds. And, after raising the sub trim levels, the crossover shifts upwards towards 70 Hz.

So:

Line In: all speakers should use the same crossover
LFE In: crossover setting can be variable by speaker
 

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Oh come on, there was no convincing. I bet you try both options before youre done just to see if we were right or not. There is no way in He11 you dont. You wont be able to resist. Im starting a "squares" betting chart. Ive got 10 bucks on 45 minutes. Thats how long after powering it up that you will have the LFE in ports stuffed full of cable. Place your bets. Ive got 10 on 45, and another 5 on 20 minutes. :whistle:

EDIT: I realize emotion is a tough thing to convey over text. Even with smileys and whistling dude. This is all in fun. I'm just poking @yourmando in the rib for fun. Darn forum has been slow the last day or 2. Ill run the squares bet though ;) We just cant tell @yourmando until they come back with the final elapsed time before they connected to the LFE in. I might slide my square a bit to add some unknown to the poster. Who's in?

EDIT II: Monopoly money of course. Interstate gambling is illegal in some states. :D
Ha, you’re right @Deaf-Forever. I probably will break down and try both inputs. I’m sure you win this one :p

If I’m not feeling too lazy, I’ll post some measurements of where I ended up with multi sub optimization
 

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I've also had lower male vocals coming from the subs when using higher crossovers, which causes a loss of clarity. I'm very critical when setting up my subs with music. As I explained, in the past I used the Line In input to roll off the subs faster and clean that up, but in a surround setup where your surround speakers are smaller than the fronts and will use a higher crossover, we have to use LFE In to avoid creating a hole where bass from the surrounds gets redirected to the subs, only to be filtered out at the subs. Therefore, recently my compromise was a 60 Hz crossover with LFE In (disables filtering at subwoofer level) from the front stage and then you can do whatever you want elsewhere, such as 80 or 100 Hz for the surrounds. And, after raising the sub trim levels, the crossover shifts upwards towards 70 Hz.

So:

Line In: all speakers should use the same crossover
LFE In: crossover setting can be variable by speaker
Great point about the possibility of having a “hole” in the bass if you need to crossover high for surrounds. If it’s too close to the max 120hz crossover in the sub eq, it won’t sum to flat.

This should be apparent in the measurements, so I’ll keep a lookout if there is a dip near there.

Crossover selection is always tricky, depending on speaker output, room modes, Schroeder, etc. My main towers go to 20hz, but I‘d want to cross over above where I have room mode issues in the 40 and 50hz range. Oddly, my surrounds measure pretty flat down to 40hz w/ no room mode issues. They are small but also pretty near field (I have yet to design front heights, which will be further away near the mains. I want to match the mains as close as I can).
 

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Great point about the possibility of having a “hole” in the bass if you need to crossover high for surrounds. If it’s too close to the max 120hz crossover in the sub eq, it won’t sum to flat.

This should be apparent in the measurements, so I’ll keep a lookout if there is a dip near there.
It should show up there. I guess I'm less critical of my surrounds and have never measured them. I'm kind of hesitant – to avoid more rabbit holes.
 

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I was outside this afternoon and decided to open the windows and turn up some music. The first song I put on was Old Town Road and the deep bass came through louder than expected. Then I put on Bass I Love You and holy $%@* my window flexed rapidly during the 17hz note!! Apparently I had raised the volume to -13db (my trim is set to +2db). I am grateful for the limiter and rumble filter. I should probably change the damping from low to medium, but I do like low damping for movies.
Try this one
 

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Just a follow up on my clunking noise on one of my two FV18 PC's, I stated previously that the clunking sound was gone after tinkering in the inside of the enclosure after removing the amp.
Unfortunately the clunking sound wasn't gone.
Brian from Rythmik offered to send me a new driver over to the Netherlands (great service!!), but he still wasn't convinced that it was the driver.

So with some instruction video's from Brian I removed the driver, had a good look inside the cabinet and couldn't see anything wrong.
I then placed everything back, loaded the BEQ profile for Tron Legacy and ran my "clunk" scene (the one with the laser teleporting) again, it got an extremely deep bass.

No clunking sound at all! nops nada nothing, I even went to -8 MV (bass 6db hot, rumble off, 12hz and mid damping). Still nothing, a super clean bass.
Really happy now and good that Brian was doubting it, if he would have send the new driver it probably also would have been fixed but it it would have been unnecessary to replace the driver.

I added some pics from the operation and I suspect that it was the 90 degree bent in the power cable that just touched the back of the driver when it was in high excursion.
So by moving the cables when putting the driver back, it probably did the job.

Now that I have the FV18 PC's for a few weeks I'm still surprised about the difference they make compared to my Arendal sub3's. I was a bit afraid that the Arendals would sound more tight but the FV18's sound amazing. The added dept is so cool and sometimes I rewind a scene to hear that deep, disturbing, powerful and clean bass again.
 

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Just a follow up on my clunking noise on one of my two FV18 PC's, I stated previously that the clunking sound was gone after tinkering in the inside of the enclosure after removing the amp.
Unfortunately the clunking sound wasn't gone.
Brian from Rythmik offered to send me a new driver over to the Netherlands (great service!!), but he still wasn't convinced that it was the driver.

So with some instruction video's from Brian I removed the driver, had a good look inside the cabinet and couldn't see anything wrong.
I then placed everything back, loaded the BEQ profile for Tron Legacy and ran my "clunk" scene (the one with the laser teleporting) again, it got an extremely deep bass.

No clunking sound at all! nops nada nothing, I even went to -8 MV (bass 6db hot, rumble off, 12hz and mid damping). Still nothing, a super clean bass.
Really happy now and good that Brian was doubting it, if he would have send the new driver it probably also would have been fixed but it it would have been unnecessary to replace the driver.

I added some pics from the operation and I suspect that it was the 90 degree bent in the power cable that just touched the back of the driver when it was in high excursion.
So by moving the cables when putting the driver back, it probably did the job.

Now that I have the FV18 PC's for a few weeks I'm still surprised about the difference they make compared to my Arendal sub3's. I was a bit afraid that the Arendals would sound more tight but the FV18's sound amazing. The added dept is so cool and sometimes I rewind a scene to hear that deep, disturbing, powerful and clean bass again.
Glad your problem got fix, and continue with your trouble shooting from your intuition. And not taking advantage of their great customer service, as I did myself with a DOA amp and also living outside the US.

Brian do send very details video, on how to swap driver/plate amp. All details are included, even the torque to use on the screws. Step by step instructions, that feel like a walk in the park:D

Darth
 

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Rythmik has a few 12" subs loaded in the clearance section for those interested.
Thanks for the alert...so tempting...but alas, I'm not ready to pull the trigger just yet. Still, a good $70 or $80 off the LVX and FVX, respectively.
 

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Hi all,

Posted a message a while ago asking about FV25HP and after talking with Enrico he convinced me to go with a pair of FV18. Got them back in July and set them up quickly. I'm more than impressed with them! I didn't get to use them much past few months due to some renovations going on. They certainly go lower than dual 18" sealed subs I had. I haven't had a chance to run rew (not familiar with it so obviously I'll have to read more) as well as dirac. Hoping to do these over the weekend. I feel FV18 subwoofer offers exceptional value. Of course, I wonder about FV25HP. My interior designer was a bit appalled by the large subwoofers in the family room - granted, I looked at couple ported subs and FV18 as well as FV25HP are on the smaller side at least that is what I think. When I have the basement finished, might be in a couple months, not quite sure yet I will move FV18s downstairs and buy a smaller ported subwoofer obviously from Rythmik for family room. Likely just single subwoofer. Bottom line is I'm very happy with my purchase.

Thanks to all for the advice. I wasn't sure if I should use LFE in or Line in. Presently, I believe I'm using LFE. Now, onto reading rew if anyone has a link to quick guide, it'd be appreciated.

Ethan
 

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Thanks to all for the advice. I wasn't sure if I should use LFE in or Line in. Presently, I believe I'm using LFE. Now, onto reading rew if anyone has a link to quick guide, it'd be appreciated.
I've been using REW YouTube tutorials (in addition to some reading). I'll recommend the following two videos - you'll want to perform the steps in video 8 first, then video 7, but video 7 gives a nice intro to REW.

 

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Hi all,

Posted a message a while ago asking about FV25HP and after talking with Enrico he convinced me to go with a pair of FV18. Got them back in July and set them up quickly. I'm more than impressed with them! I didn't get to use them much past few months due to some renovations going on. They certainly go lower than dual 18" sealed subs I had. I haven't had a chance to run rew (not familiar with it so obviously I'll have to read more) as well as dirac. Hoping to do these over the weekend. I feel FV18 subwoofer offers exceptional value. Of course, I wonder about FV25HP. My interior designer was a bit appalled by the large subwoofers in the family room - granted, I looked at couple ported subs and FV18 as well as FV25HP are on the smaller side at least that is what I think. When I have the basement finished, might be in a couple months, not quite sure yet I will move FV18s downstairs and buy a smaller ported subwoofer obviously from Rythmik for family room. Likely just single subwoofer. Bottom line is I'm very happy with my purchase.

Thanks to all for the advice. I wasn't sure if I should use LFE in or Line in. Presently, I believe I'm using LFE. Now, onto reading rew if anyone has a link to quick guide, it'd be appreciated.

Ethan
I tried line-in as & @enricoclaudio does, set to max crossover, PEQ off, etc

I ended up switching to LFE in because as @Soulburner said, I had trouble meeting my target curve around my crossover point. Even setting my crossover at 80hz using Dirac Live Bass Control, Dirac predicted I would have attenuation at 80hz and a little higher, because the 120hz line in crossover starts rolling off so it’s a few db down at 120hz as one would expect. I confirmed this with REW.

With LFE-in, I can sum to flat at 80hz and above crossover points.
 

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Ordered a L12 yesterday. Will there be shipment tracking provided? Also, new to Home Theater audio, do I need to buy any special cables or does it come included?
 
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