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They'll send you instructions. It's easy. Only 10 screws and some slide on connectors. No special tools.
It just takes a lot of careful prying to get the amp to come loose from the sub box because it's in there tight (which you want it to be tight) and there's a gasket too.
I agree 100%, Brian send very detail instruction's. Down to the torque setting if using a drill, like I had too for changing the amp on of my FV18.
And on the FV18 (nice and heavy), the woofer also need to be remove before changing the amps. And using two proper size Allen key. With the short end in two opposite hole and using the long end as the handle, made it a walk in the park.

I'll take a lot at. Hopefully I have everything I need and won't have an issue taking the amp out.

Hi,

You should have no problem at all, and if having problem lifting-it. If so use a couple proper size Allen key, as I did on the above quote for my FV18 woofer. If you don't have any, it would be a small investment for not damaging the cabinet by using a small flat screwdriver.

If torqueing the screws back on by hand, the trick is to stop when they feel thigh and not overdoing it. And another thing is with 10 screws, you work at opposite patterns like so;
-first one, top left corner
-second one, bottom right corner
-third one, top right corner
-fourth one, bottom left corner...

Something like this;
1, 7, 3
9, 5
6, 10
4, 8, 2

Darth
 

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THE 50HZ/24 SETTING FOR LINE-IN
Having to re-calibrate my system, I checked the low pass settings with REW and found that even setting the crossover to 25Hz with the low pass setting set to 50Hz/24, the actual 24 dB rolloff happens only around 47 Hz. Setting the low pass to AVR/12 rolloff still happens around 47Hz. Raising the crossover point to 50 Hz, provides a 4 dB increase in output between 25 and 50Hz with rolloff just beyond 50Hz.
I thought that I would be getting the 24dB rolloff at the crossover point. Why was the low pass designed this way?
 

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Thanks for sending in the amps. The caps used in these HX405 amps are either CDM (US) or Panasonic. The connection of one of the cap is not per manufacturer's recommendation. We need to correct that to ensure long term reliability on the power supply circuit. For HX405 amp models (LVX12/FVX15/FVX12), if the fuse ever got blown, please contact us directly and not swap in another fuse. This way we know how to help customer. This only applies to HX405 amp, not any other amps from us. We actually did a complete review on all of our amps and confirm all other amps are per manufacturer's recommendation.
I continue to be impressed by your customer service and the extremely ethical way you run your business. I’ll continue to recommend your products not only based on their quality and the sound quality that comes from them, but for the quality of the team who makes and supports them. Many companies could learn a thing or two from you guys.
 

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EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR LVX12, FVX12 AND FVX15 AMPS RECALL:

We wanted to inform that all amps that has been recalled will have an extended warranty of 2 years if your product is still under warranty or out of warranty. Meaning from 3 years warranty on the amp, now you get 5 years warranty on the amp since day of purchase. If your subwoofer is out of warranty and you send your amp back for repair due the recall, you will get 2 years of warranty on the repaired amp which will start since the day you get your amp back from repair due the recall. Note that this policy ONLY applies to those who send their amps back for repair due the recall.
 

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EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR LVX12, FVX12 AND FVX15 AMPS RECALL:

We wanted to inform that all amps that has been recalled will have an extended warranty of 2 years if your product is still under warranty or out of warranty. Meaning from 3 years warranty on the amp, now you get 5 years warranty on the amp since day of purchase. If your subwoofer is out of warranty and you send your amp back for repair due the recall, you will get 2 years of warranty on the repaired amp which will start since the day you get your amp back from repair due the recall. Note that this policy ONLY applies to those who send their amps back for repair due the recall.
Wow, what a deal. Thank you!
 

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Well here goes nothin... order placed for my first (of most likely two) FV18 paper cone subs for our 8500^3 ft basement (on a slab of course). My only concern is that it might be TOO much output coming from my ancient HSU VTF 😁
We’ll see how it goes!

P.S. - Y’all are the best and the worst at the same time 🤣

Tim
quick follow up - in such a large room (8500^3) on a slab, is it a waste to expect low end benefits from the FV18vs FV15HP? Plan is to go dual assuming everything goes well. Thanks for any thoughts. Just dotting i’s and crossing t’s on this decision.
 

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quick follow up - in such a large room (8500^3) on a slab, is it a waste to expect low end benefits from the FV18vs FV15HP? Plan is to go dual assuming everything goes well. Thanks for any thoughts. Just dotting i’s and crossing t’s on this decision.
Not sure exactly what you're asking based on how you worded the question. Both will have very similar sound and extension but the FV18 will just have more of it. I would recommend the 18's for that space if the budget allows.
 

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Not sure exactly what you're asking based on how you worded the question. Both will have very similar sound and extension but the FV18 will just have more of it. I would recommend the 18's for that space if the budget allows.
Good point Soul - I wasn’t specific enough. Should’ve said sub-20hz benefits in such a large area on a slab. If sub 20hz would get absorbed/overwhelmed by the area and concrete, I could just focus on FV15HP. But if there would be benefit to having the 18s I can stick with that.
 

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I posted here a little less than a year ago when I got two FV18's to pair with my Acoustic elegance 15" PR subs. I have been using the 4 with Audyssey most of the year. I have high damping, one port plugged, 12 hz extension and rumble filters on the FV18's.

With the weather getting colder and limited social options, I decided to get a Umik and Minidsp for myself for Christmas and download REW. After a few fits and starts I got everything going, and have been tweaking over the last week. I have to say I'm amazed with REW and what it does and I've barely scratched the surface.

My sub placement options are limited but did some experimentation and ended up with the FV18's in the front corners, one AE in the rear right corner and the other is firing directly into the couch about a foot from my left elbow. That was the orientation where it measured best in that location. The AE subs drop off a lot below 25 hz which is placement related. The back of the room is bad for that.

I've attached some graphs (subs only) which show where I'm at. I started with physical measurements for delays and tweaked them both by ear and using the alignment tool. Summing is pretty good throughout with no cancellations below 30 hz which is great considering different subs are being used. The two graphs were done at different points in time and are similar but I made a couple of small tweaks in between.
Screenshot 2021-01-10 182106.png
Screenshot 2021-01-10 190351.png


Screenshot 2021-01-10 190709.png



I did a bit of EQ to reduce the 30hz hump but I wasn't too aggressive with it. The 60-90 hz valley was a tough one, plus I had to give up a bit there to fix a larger issue in a secondary seat. The first hint of compression shows up at 87 hz. The response is much more level with the main speakers added.

My first impressions for music was generally positive, the only thing I noticed initially was the lower bass was a little boomy and the sound shifted from the front to the rear. I eq'd the near sub down at 46 hz, and raised the gain 1.5 DB on the FV18's which helped that. On my suspended floor the lower end output is scary. I'm sure I'll be tweaking this further but I'll be running like this for the time being. It sounds quite good now.
 

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Not sure exactly what you're asking based on how you worded the question. Both will have very similar sound and extension but the FV18 will just have more of it. I would recommend the 18's for that space if the budget allows.
+1

This is a very big room, trying to reach some TR or not to fill-it.

quick follow up - in such a large room (8500^3) on a slab, is it a waste to expect low end benefits from the FV18vs FV15HP? Plan is to go dual assuming everything goes well. Thanks for any thoughts. Just dotting i’s and crossing t’s on this decision.
Due to your very large room, I would also suggest to get dual FV18 instead of the FV15. And will get some low ends benefits, for having different tuning options. And the extra SPL available from the FV18, compare to the FV15.

Darth
 

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Yeah, you won't get the rumble that some others report. Many recommend putting your seats on a riser platform which should help a lot.
If going this route consider your SPL needs. Since you won't get there with subs alone, and the FV15HP pair will be capable of 113 dB @ 20 Hz, they could be enough if you don't need reference level or beyond. Reference level for LFE is 115 dB. But the price gap between them is rather small making the 18's a good deal, especially if you want to boost them further.
 

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To those who have removed their amp to send in for servicing, perhaps you can help me. I cannot seem to loosen the metal joints attached to the voice coil and the sensing coil. Per Brian, I raised the plastic covering, am using pliers on the metal joint itself and moving it left, right, up and down but they aren't coming undone.
Are they attached with nuts? What am I missing? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
 

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I like big cones and I cannot lie !
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To those who have removed their amp to send in for servicing, perhaps you can help me. I cannot seem to loosen the metal joints attached to the voice coil and the sensing coil. Per Brian, I raised the plastic covering, am using pliers on the metal joint itself and moving it left, right, up and down but they aren't coming undone.
Are they attached with nuts? What am I missing? Thank you in advance for your assistance.

I havent been inside but are you talking about the connectuons to teh speaker? Spade connectors?
 

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I havent been inside but are you talking about the connectuons to teh speaker? Spade connectors?
3077484

Yes. They're quite challenging to remove for me, especially as there is a large magnet just above them. I acknowledge I'm a novice at speaker disassembly so it's entirely possible I'm just doing it wrong.
 

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Wait, before we do that, can you take a pic of the wires. IE a side pic?


Lefty Loosey. Gently try turning the red and black knobs counterclockwise.
 

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View attachment 3077484
Yes. They're quite challenging to remove for me, especially as there is a large magnet just above them. I acknowledge I'm a novice at speaker disassembly so it's entirely possible I'm just doing it wrong.
I had to send back an amp from one of my L22s a year ago or so. I got the spades off one woofer pretty easily, the other I just couldn't get a decent perch on to remove. After discussing with Brian via email, I wound up taking the woofer out and then removing. MUCH easier.
 

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I removed and sent my FVX15 amp in on Friday. Do I ever miss it! I have the Revel F228Bes up front, and the F426Be for the center, so these aren't your everyday speakers. My entertainment room sounds dead without it! Can not wait to get it back.
 
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