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We're back up and running!

Thank you @enricoclaudio & @Rythmik for all of your help with getting this repaired. Y'all rock!! \m/ (>_<) \m/
 

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I normally watch movies between -20 and -17, but I had to turn Godzilla vs. Kong up to -12 to have decent volume and even then I didn't think it was very loud.
Most of the GvK streaming reviews are saying the vocal track and bass are weak and to hold out for the blu-ray release or see it in a theater.
 

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That beast cannot be plugged. It would shoot the plug out and through your nearest wall. :ROFLMAO:

I believe Rythmik once allowed @serith to try plugging a single port on his 3 FV25HPs...but he had tons of headroom to play with so there was little risk.
My Fv25 came with a Port-plug. As it was shipped directly from china, they may have included a plug. I don't use them though. But I did not get the Furniture moving pads with the sub .
Check out the video below of the subwoofer.
FV25hp with Silver cone
 

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Center port plugged (it was already plugged when the sub arrived), set for 2-port mode, 12 Hz extension filter, and low damping, with the Rumble Filter off.
Thanks, I set everything as above going through LFE from the AVR ... the only change is that I set damping to “high” because “music”.

I started trying to integrate them last night with starting positions in the middle of the left and right walls. Measured the transfer functions at the MLP from each sub using REW and found good response of the sub placed on the right mid-wall but horrible response from the sub on the left mid-wall. Giant suck-out between 30 and 70 Hertz on the left side! Tonight when I get home I will try to move the left mid-wall to either the back left corner or front left corner and see if the suck-out zone diminishes and will post measurements. So much for Floyd O’Toole’s ideal placement guidelines. Of course my room is square with MLP shifter to the right size which could be the reason for this.

A couple more questions,

(1) the soft port plugs on these subs are stuffed really deep inside the center holes ... do I need to pull them out and reposition them flush with the front face of the subs?

(2) I plan to plug in the miniDSP box between the AVR and the subs tonight. At this time I have set the volume to 12:00 on both subs but I am wondering if I should raise it to 3:00pm given the attenuation filters will remove a fair amount of SPL after EQ. If anybody has setup 2 of these beasts with miniDSP, let me know how you initially set the volumes on these subs.

After finding a good spot for the 2nd FV18 and aligning with the miniDSP I plan to integrate them with my old dual Epic Legends (each of which has 2 opposing 12-inch woofers, sealed designs) for an eventual 4-sub set up. If I can’t integrate them all harmoniously, the two Legends will have to go for pennies on the dollar.

Finally, and even though my integration work has just begun, I want to give a big THANK YOU to Rythmik customer service. Thrilled at the speed and smoothness of this transaction.
 

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After finding a good spot for the 2nd FV18 and aligning with the miniDSP I plan to integrate them with my old dual epic legends (each of which has 2 opposing 12-inch woofers, sealed designs) for an eventual 4-sub set up. If I can’t integrate them all harmoniously, the two Legends will have to go for pennies on the dollar.
Since you already have REW and know how to use it, how do those epic legends play with each other now? If you measure their combined response using acoustic reference timing and you measure your sub locations with acoustic reference timing, REW will simulate the combined response for you. You can also adjust the delay on the sub/subs in REW to see what delays are going to work best for integrating with the mains using the time alignment feature in REW.
 
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(1) the soft port plugs on these subs are stuffed really deep inside the center holes ... do I need to pull them out and reposition them flush with the front face of the subs?

(2) I plan to plug in the miniDSP box between the AVR and the subs tonight. At this time I have set the volume to 12:00 on both subs but I am wondering if I should raise it to 3:00pm given the attenuation filters will remove a fair amount of SPL after EQ. If anybody has setup 2 of these beasts with miniDSP, let me know how you initially set the volumes on these subs.
1 - no need - they are inserted firmly by Rythmik, so trust they know what they're doing. Tighter/deeper seal = good.
2 - I have only a single FV18 in > 4300 cubic feet, so my gain knob is at about 3 o'clock and I had to use a y-splitter to get a good negative trim (-11 dB) out of my Onkyo AVR. If you're using Enrico's setup method, you'll be running room correction last, so you can just wait and see what sort of levels your AVR trims. Ideally you'll be around -5 to -12 dB. With duals, I'm assuming you won't need your gain knob as high as mine, depending on room size, of course.
Starting at 12 o'clock is a good general practice.
 

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(2) I plan to plug in the miniDSP box between the AVR and the subs tonight. At this time I have set the volume to 12:00 on both subs but I am wondering if I should raise it to 3:00pm given the attenuation filters will remove a fair amount of SPL after EQ. If anybody has setup 2 of these beasts with miniDSP, let me know how you initially set the volumes on these subs.
What AVR are you using?

Before doing any REW/miniDSP work, did you run room correction to determine the sub levels and distance to arrive at the noon setting?

If so, what trim level did the noon setting produce on your AVR? You'll want to keep running the initial phase of room correction only to get the sub trim near its max negative setting. For Denon/Marantz that would be -11.0 or so. For Yamaha -9.0. Then you can start your miniDSP work. When that is completed, then you can run a final full Audyssey correction.

In my case, I had to be about 5 clicks past noon to initially achieve -11.0 sub trim in my room. Your results will likely differ. After miniDSP EQ was applied and rerunning full Audyssey, I had to bump up the sub volume knob another 3 clicks to get back to -11.0. Then I bump up 6.0db to land on a final setting -5.0 for most listening adjusted up/down for source material.

Then measure and compare with Audyssey on and off. With my older version of Audyssey I prefer it off, mostly due to the effect it has on the high end. But you can see what it did to my response under 30htz below. You can also try running full Audyssey first, then showing the Audyssey response to the miniDSP. I've had good results that way in the past at the suggestion of @Soulburner. Also, in this case, Audyssey seemed to nail the sub distance for timing. REW's calculation was not good this time arround. YMMV.

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Thanks, I set everything as above going through LFE from the AVR ... the only change is that I set damping to “high” because “music”.

I started trying to integrate them last night with starting positions in the middle of the left and right walls. Measured the transfer functions at the MLP from each sub using REW and found good response of the sub placed on the right mid-wall but horrible response from the sub on the left mid-wall. Giant suck-out between 30 and 70 Hertz on the left side! Tonight when I get home I will try to move the left mid-wall to either the back left corner or front left corner and see if the suck-out zone diminishes and will post measurements. So much for Floyd O’Toole’s ideal placement guidelines. Of course my room is square with MLP shifter to the right size which could be the reason for this.

A couple more questions,

(1) the soft port plugs on these subs are stuffed really deep inside the center holes ... do I need to pull them out and reposition them flush with the front face of the subs?

(2) I plan to plug in the miniDSP box between the AVR and the subs tonight. At this time I have set the volume to 12:00 on both subs but I am wondering if I should raise it to 3:00pm given the attenuation filters will remove a fair amount of SPL after EQ. If anybody has setup 2 of these beasts with miniDSP, let me know how you initially set the volumes on these subs.

After finding a good spot for the 2nd FV18 and aligning with the miniDSP I plan to integrate them with my old dual Epic Legends (each of which has 2 opposing 12-inch woofers, sealed designs) for an eventual 4-sub set up. If I can’t integrate them all harmoniously, the two Legends will have to go for pennies on the dollar.

Finally, and even though my integration work has just begun, I want to give a big THANK YOU to Rythmik customer service. Thrilled at the speed and smoothness of this transaction.
1.- Gain match the FV18s following @AustinJerry miniDSP 2x4 guide

2.- Time align the FV18s in the miniDSP 2x4 HD following the same miniDSP 2x4 guide by AustinJerry.

3.- Make REW filters following AustinJerry Getting Started With REW Guide

4.- If you have a Mac, check the REW for macOS Guide from my signature for a proper REW setup on Mac.

5.- Make sure you set all the PEQ/Filters in the Output PEQs so you get the Input PEQs free for BEQ.

6.- Use all the filters you need to flatten the response or to create a house curve. Try to not boost more than 10dB at any certain frequency.

7.- Finally run your receiver REQ (Audyssey, Dirac, ARC, etc)

Also check the Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers Guide from my signature for some important tips.
 

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1.- Gain match the FV18s following @AustinJerry miniDSP 2x4 guide

2.- Time align the FV18s in the miniDSP 2x4 HD following the same miniDSP 2x4 guide by AustinJerry.

3.- Make REW filters following AustinJerry Getting Started With REW Guide

4.- If you have a Mac, check the REW for macOS Guide from my signature for a proper REW setup on Mac.

5.- Make sure you set all the PEQ/Filters in the Output PEQs so you get the Input PEQs free for BEQ.

6.- Use all the filters you need to flatten the response or to create a house curve. Try to not boost more than 10dB at any certain frequency.

7.- Finally run your receiver REQ (Audyssey, Dirac, ARC, etc)

Also check the Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers Guide from my signature for some important tips.
This post should be saved.
 
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I've tried!

Of course, there are folks on here who espouse running room correction earlier in the sequence. Ultimately the order is up to the end user, but I like Enrico's method of leaving room correction last as it simplifies things on the back end and some AVRs (like mine) don't do such a great job with it.
 

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What AVR are you using?
I am using an Onkyo TX-NR3009 which happens to have dual-sub XT32 calibration capability. In theory I should not need to be meshing with the miniDSP but it should help later integrate a total of 4 subs in this room.

The 12:00 o'clock volume setting produced -8.5 dB of AVR trim in the 2 FV18s. I did not increase the gain further after the first calibration.

Here is a plot from REW with the 2 FV18s at the centers of the side-walls. Note the room is square 20x20 and the listening area is closer to the right sub by 3.5 feet. Lotsa of work to do here as I don't understand the giant suck out on the left side (gray curve). The red curve is both subs running together (no EQ and with no time alignment) but with the right sub using up its one PEQ at 30 Hz. My placement experiments are still pending.

Thanks for the feedback though guys, I will be moving slowly for sure given the learning curve with the miniDSP.

3120591
 

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This spot for sale or rent.
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I am using an Onkyo TX-NR3009 which happens to have dual-sub XT32 calibration capability. In theory I should not need to be meshing with the miniDSP but it should help later integrate a total of 4 subs in this room.
Nevermind. Apparently, I was wrong.
 

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The 3009 does not has SubEQ HT. However, the 2 sub outs are fully independent. I used to own a 809 with XT32 and no SubEQ HT.
 

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1.- Gain match the FV18s following @AustinJerry miniDSP 2x4 guide

2.- Time align the FV18s in the miniDSP 2x4 HD following the same miniDSP 2x4 guide by AustinJerry.

3.- Make REW filters following AustinJerry Getting Started With REW Guide

4.- If you have a Mac, check the REW for macOS Guide from my signature for a proper REW setup on Mac.

5.- Make sure you set all the PEQ/Filters in the Output PEQs so you get the Input PEQs free for BEQ.

6.- Use all the filters you need to flatten the response or to create a house curve. Try to not boost more than 10dB at any certain frequency.

7.- Finally run your receiver REQ (Audyssey, Dirac, ARC, etc)

Also check the Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers Guide from my signature for some important tips.
@enricoclaudio at what point do you introduce any PEQ from the amps on the subs? Before, or after the miniDSP?
 

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@enricoclaudio at what point do you introduce any PEQ from the amps on the subs? Before, or after the miniDSP?
I have a grandson who love to mess with my subwoofers knobs so I do not use my subwoofers PEQs for that matter. It's easier to keep everything under control in one device that is hidden from other people and that only me can access. But if you need to use the subwoofers PEQ, then do it after you have used all the miniDSP PEQs. That way you know if you turn the subwoofer PEQ OFF, you would have a decent EQ already.
 

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The 3009 does not has SubEQ HT. However, the 2 sub outs are fully independent. I used to own a 809 with XT32 and no SubEQ HT.
Geez, I did not know that, thanks Enrico. Since you mentioned it I googled it and saw that Onkyo started putting subEQ HT on the very next version of their AVRs (the 3010, etc) than the one I bought. So I stand corrected, my AVR does NOT independently align and level match the 2 subs. Should have waited 3 months to buy I guess but couldn’t pass up the bargain offered at the time on “yesterday‘s technology“. Now I feel like kicking this thing.

I guess one approach to getting around this limitation for a 2-sub setup (without the miniDSP) is to place the 2 FV18’s symmetrically and equidistant from the MLP. Let’s say I place each of them right next to each main. This would ensure exact time alignment (can be easily checked by running Audyssey and checking the sub distance setting in the results). Since they are identical subs they should also be gain matched automatically because their gain knobs on their amps are both at 12:00 o’clock (Or at the same level). Then give XT32 a shot at doing the EQ properly. Then check trim and if not at -11dB increase the 2 volume knobs in the back of the FV18s equally and rerun XT32 till -11 appears in the results. After that happens, boost both subwoofer trims in the AVR by +6dB (to a trim level of -5dB) and reset the cross-overs for all speakers to 80Hz. Done.

Will this work? I am willing to give it shot while learning the steps for the miniDSP way.

[PS: I will disable the subwoofer‘s single PEQ band per your suggestion]
 
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