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Will this work? I am willing to give it shot while learning the steps for the miniDSP way.
It's a good plan. The only caveat would be the actual (symmetrical) placement. While that would allow automatic time-alignment, it's likely not the best position for either one or even both subs in your room. If you don't have REW/UMIK-1, I'd at least suggest a sub crawl to check those positions, if possible, to make sure you're not getting totally donked.
 

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It's a good plan. The only caveat would be the actual (symmetrical) placement. While that would allow automatic time-alignment, it's likely not the best position for either one or even both subs in your room. If you don't have REW/UMIK-1, I'd at least suggest a sub crawl to check those positions, if possible, to make sure you're not getting totally donked.
I do have UMIK + REW w/ the ASIO4ALL driver and the very basic knowledge to measure transfer functions at the new locations. You are probably right, I expect at least one of these 2 new locations to have another big SPL suck-out zone somewhere in the 30-80Hz range but I already have this now in the current mid-wall placement (which also suffers from 3.5 feet of uncorrected misalignment).

The question I found asking myself is this: what is the "minimum" number of steps and the "simplest" path to getting good bass in a room with 2 really good subs and a budget AVR? And can such a process be described unambiguously in 1 simple paragraph? The answer could certainly be a flat "no" ... about to find out.
 

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The question I found asking myself is this: what is the "minimum" number of steps and the "simplest" path to getting good bass in a room with 2 really good subs and a budget AVR? And can such a process be described unambiguously in 1 simple paragraph? The answer could certainly be a flat "no" ... about to find out.
Best of luck to you! It's very easy to get bogged down in the details here, but what really matters is how it sounds to you. You'll know when you've hit on something great/good/decent.

And with two capable FV18s, even if placement and dial-in are non-ideal, they should still deliver in spades.
 

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I do have UMIK + REW w/ the ASIO4ALL driver and the very basic knowledge to measure transfer functions at the new locations. You are probably right, I expect at least one of these 2 new locations to have another big SPL suck-out zone somewhere in the 30-80Hz range but I already have this now in the current mid-wall placement (which also suffers from 3.5 feet of uncorrected misalignment).

The question I found asking myself is this: what is the "minimum" number of steps and the "simplest" path to getting good bass in a room with 2 really good subs and a budget AVR? And can such a process be described unambiguously in 1 simple paragraph? The answer could certainly be a flat "no" ... about to find out.
If they both have the same nulls, then they will worsen in severity. Try experimenting with moving one sub and a time a few inches off the wall, rotating, and other small adjustments. I found pulling one sub forward just 6" help pull up a dip in sub 1, when other small adjustments magnified the null. But my room is far from sq, YMMV.

You might as well just get a miniDSP. It's a pittance compared to the cost of the subs.
 
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I am using an Onkyo TX-NR3009 which happens to have dual-sub XT32 calibration capability. In theory I should not need to be meshing with the miniDSP but it should help later integrate a total of 4 subs in this room.

The 12:00 o'clock volume setting produced -8.5 dB of AVR trim in the 2 FV18s. I did not increase the gain further after the first calibration.

Here is a plot from REW with the 2 FV18s at the centers of the side-walls. Note the room is square 20x20 and the listening area is closer to the right sub by 3.5 feet. Lotsa of work to do here as I don't understand the giant suck out on the left side (gray curve). The red curve is both subs running together (no EQ and with no time alignment) but with the right sub using up its one PEQ at 30 Hz. My placement experiments are still pending.

Thanks for the feedback though guys, I will be moving slowly for sure given the learning curve with the miniDSP.

View attachment 3120591
Might try moving one or both subs. Also, I wonder if one is out of phase with the other.....its strange(IMO) that you aren't getting +6dB down low as they should be mutually coupled and sum constructively in the lower frequencies.

Also, although it can add to the complication of testing an measuring, sometimes turning one sub up slightly may cause a drastic improvement in response. In my room, turning one sub up about 2 dB compared to the other fills a big nasty dip, adding 6+ dB in that region.
 
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I do have UMIK + REW w/ the ASIO4ALL driver and the very basic knowledge to measure transfer functions at the new locations. You are probably right, I expect at least one of these 2 new locations to have another big SPL suck-out zone somewhere in the 30-80Hz range but I already have this now in the current mid-wall placement (which also suffers from 3.5 feet of uncorrected misalignment).

The question I found asking myself is this: what is the "minimum" number of steps and the "simplest" path to getting good bass in a room with 2 really good subs and a budget AVR? And can such a process be described unambiguously in 1 simple paragraph? The answer could certainly be a flat "no" ... about to find out.
Hi,

The simplest way, is to start with some good basics. This thread is full of useful information's;
Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences | AVS Forum

While the whole Guide is only on the first two posts of the electronic version, in reality is very long due to a lot of details. I printed a paper version and is over 200 pages long:eek:

That said, at the beginning a smaller version, can be found by reading the 22 Cliff notes that sum up the whole Guide. If you have a printer, those Cliff Notes will be 5 pages long on paper. And reading slowly at your leisure, will give a good base to start with. Since myself, I find a paper version easier to read and not miss some small details that can be important. From there you can always click on a certain Section, to learn more if desire.

Darth
 

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Hey guys. I've got 2 X PSA S3600i. I was looking at grabbing another couple of subs to fill in the room modes. Ideally I'd just grab another set of 3600 but they are completely sold out here in Australia.

My only other options to buy within Australia that I have found, without going DIY, is either a Rythmik G25HP ($4.3k) or F18 ($3k).

Ideally id go to the dual opposed option as Id like to use them as side tables for my seats. I use the s3600i as my speaker stands, about 3 meters away.

What are people's thoughts on these subs. How would the G25HP compare to the S3600i?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Since the FV15HP is very old, are there any plans for a successor coming out in the near future, i.e. 6 months?

Is it worth choosing an F18 over a FV15HP if the use is a mix of 50% gaming 25% music and 25% movies + tv shows?
 

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Since the FV15HP is very old, are there any plans for a successor coming out in the near future, i.e. 6 months?

Is it worth choosing an F18 over a FV15HP if the use is a mix of 50% gaming 25% music and 25% movies + tv shows?
If that’s your viewing/listening preferences, I’d just go with the FV18. I just purchased one to replace my SVS PB12 Plus, and even with a very minimal setup (planning to do full calibration today), it absolutely destroys what I was used to. We’ve watched Godzilla (2014)...INSANE!! Kong: Skull Island....INSANE! Started watching Godzilla: King of Monsters, but it was getting late so we decided to shut it down and continue later, but what we saw of it...ridiculously INSANE!!!!!! Or as I like to call it in these extreme moments...”Recockulous” **.

Needless to say, it’s insane.




** This term is copyrighted, so any use of it will cost you an adult beverage of some kind.
 
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Does anyone here own F18s? Just wanted to get your experience and if you compared them against any other ID options before committing. Thanks!
 

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Does anyone here own F18s? Just wanted to get your experience and if you compared them against any other ID options before committing. Thanks!
Ummmm...you just made Post# 48,270, so I'm pretty sure someone might own 1 or 2.





I'm just bustin' your balls, man. Welcome to the thread! :)
 
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Does anyone here own F18s? Just wanted to get your experience and if you compared them against any other ID options before committing. Thanks!
I have two F18-SEs. I didn’t do any kind of direct listening comparisons with other subs. I came close to getting two SVS SB16s, but my room is pretty large and I felt the Rythmiks would be a better fit. I have no regrets. They’re a high quality product, built like little tanks, and the gloss black looks very nice if you’re into that sort of thing. I was kinda torn on whether to get gloss black, but I’m glad I did.
 

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Does anyone here own F18s? Just wanted to get your experience and if you compared them against any other ID options before committing. Thanks!
@blSwagger ;has a pair


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Hi guys, my receiver is a Yam Aventage RX-A3080 with 2 subwoofer outs, separate, distance settings, levels and separate PEQ for each sub out currently running 2 Rythmik subs. I want to add 2 more subs for a total of 4. I will use a y splitter to add sub 1 and 2 (sub out 1) and another y splitter for sub 3 and aub 4 (sub out 2). Since sub 1 and 2 are in the front and sub 3 & 4 will be located in the back of the room, how will YPAO handle distance settings, levels etc when it runs the calibration? One website mentioned entering the average distance of front sub to back sub manually. How can this be correct? I do not want to use Minidsp. Thanks for any tips.
 
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