[BDP24]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24632395


What is the difference(if any) between the F15HP and the E15HP. How do they compare to the FV15HP?


I have the LV12R right now and am very happy with it, would either of those be significantly better?


Thank you.


Also, would setting the distance of the sub in AVR help with the null at my MLP?

The two V models are vented, all the others are sealed. The F15HP and E15HP share the same amp and driver, but the F has slightly more output (0.5dB) because of it's slightly larger enclosure. The FV15HP also has the same amp and driver, and because of it's vented enclosure has more output around it's tuning frequency (16hz?) than the sealed models (except maybe the F25). Below that frequency, it's output drops off more rapidly than do the sealed subs (6dB and12dB/octave respectively, I believe). So at very low frequencies the sealed models end up having higher output than the vented. But that is so low in frequency, and our ears are so low in sensitivity down there, that you probably won't hear that difference. The real value of vented subs is in large rooms, where sealed subs don't benefit from the room gain that small rooms provide them. In large rooms (larger than somewhere around 4,000 ft3 or so), employing sealed subs requires you to have more of them to get the same output as vented subs. What is the volume of your room? That's the first consideration in choosing between subs. Vented and sealed are two different animals! Feel free to correct me, more technically informed readers!

 

[bear123]


You need more sealed subs to get the same output as ported subs regardless of room size.  Ported subs get the same benefit from room gain as sealed subs do, so they keep their output advantage around tune.

 

[mijotter]

So am I to understand that my LV12R will be better than an F15HP or XS30 because it's a small room and ported?

 

[bear123]


No, because you are adding a lot more excursion and power going to either of those subs.  If you went to a F12 you would lose output for movies.  Going to much larger drivers with more excursion and power, sealed subs can equal or best a ported subs output around tune.

 

[JT78681]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24633271


So am I to understand that my LV12R will be better than an F15HP or XS30 because it's a small room and ported?

Is it possible for you to squeeze another LV12R in that room somewhere? The money you are going to spend on an F15HP you could put towards a second LV12R and I'm sure that would satisfy your craving for bass and smooth out the response in the entire room. I had dual LV12R's and they sounded fantastic. Another member on here lived close to me and I heard his LV12R's in a room bigger than mine, but sealed and it was impressive.

 

[mijotter]

"Also, would setting the distance of the sub in AVR help with the null at my MLP?"

 

[bearchan]

Jim Wilson's review of the Salk/Rythmik 15 With Dual 15" Passive Radiators .

 

[Iain-]



Quote:
Originally Posted by bearchan  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24634488


Jim Wilson's review of the Salk/Rythmik 15 With Dual 15" Passive Radiators .

That's amazing.


I didn't think a passive radiator was possible with drivers intended for sealed enclosure.


Am I missing something here?

 

[DonH50]

Could have used the drivers used in the vented enclosures... Could ping Jim or Brian.

 

[Iain-]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain-  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24634606

Quote:
Originally Posted by bearchan  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24634488


Jim Wilson's review of the Salk/Rythmik 15 With Dual 15" Passive Radiators .

That's amazing.


I didn't think a passive radiator was possible with drivers intended for sealed enclosure.


Am I missing something here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonH50  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24634680


Could have used the drivers used in the vented enclosures... Could ping Jim or Brian.

DS1510 then, rather than DS1500 I reckon. Makes sense.

 

[nathan_h]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24634357


"Also, would setting the distance of the sub in AVR help with the null at my MLP?"

No. Moving the sub or the listening position is the only feasible way to deal with a null. And remember, just because you solve one null doesn't mean you didn't introduce another, at a different frequency.


This is the challenge, and the reason people recommend the subwoofer crawl and using measuring equipment.


I'm working through this in a more general sense right now, since my plan was to have a sub at 1/4 the front wall and 3/4 the front wall -- but my modeling says this won't actually get me great even response across my main row (I used REW to model it), and my screen wall has supports that get in the way of this placement too (these F15HP are big).


My try 1/3 and 2/3 the front wall and see if that works better than the modeling suggests it will.

 

[purplerain]

I will NEVER buy another Rythmik again. I mean NEVER EVER, cause I would never need another!!!


I watched my first blu-ray (Hellboy II) just now and all I can say is WOW. It is to powerful for me, but I will forever keep it.


Cant believe the amount of bass and smoothness. Masterpiece, the FV15HP-SE

 

[Iain-]



Quote:
Originally Posted by purplerain  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15180#post_24634929


I will NEVER buy another Rythmik again. I mean NEVER EVER, cause I would never need another!!!


I watched my first blu-ray (Hellboy II) just now and all I can say is WOW. It is to powerful for me, but I will forever keep it.


Cant believe the amount of bass and smoothness. Masterpiece, the FV15HP-SE

Yet you probably will purchase an F12SE or F15HP-SE for your music room in future.

Glad you like it; beauties aren't they?

 

[DonH50]

A second to smooth out room response? For greater output when you go to a larger room?


Never is a long time...

 

[brazosdog02]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15060#post_24598549


What is the LPF filter frequency you have selected for LFE channel? The common setting is 120hz/180hz. Try set it to 120hz. You mentioned the noise is lower when you switch from LFE input to LINE-in. The only difference between these two inputs is LINE-IN has lower upper end extension. So in that sense, the noise is indeed in the source. So it does sound like the filter in SUB out of your AVR is not set up properly.


Jason, I also sent you a Discman containing pure sine tones and you can use them as the source to your sub and test out if we can reproduce the noise. You should receive it Wed.


-

I have tried the discman as per the instructions, but Im not able to reproduce the sound. I may have not turned it up loud enough but frankly, Im afraid to at 20hz. LOL. I havnt had a good chance to really play with this system much any more. Im starting to suspect there is no issue. :/ The noise must be LFE related from teh AVR and just 'what it does' when turned up loud or close to reference level...not sure.

 

[CheYC]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/14970#post_24586942


That is really odd. It should never give you noise at the level. Do you use select HD-audio? I suspect it is the HD audio overload. Otherwise, the amplifier can be the problem. I can send you a DIscman (instead of using the source which may have the same problem) to test the max output of your sub at 20hz.

Just wondering if you were still willing to send the discman, I sent a PM about a week ago. Thanks!

 

[purplerain]



Quote:
Originally Posted by purplerain  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15180#post_24634929


I will NEVER buy another Rythmik again. I mean NEVER EVER, cause I would never need another!!!


I watched my first blu-ray (Hellboy II) just now and all I can say is WOW. It is to powerful for me, but I will forever keep it.


Cant believe the amount of bass and smoothness. Masterpiece, the FV15HP-SE

My tv viewing and music listening, audyssey was set to -7.5 on my avr. I raised it to -3. I did not know there was another sub setting for audyssey when I clicked over to my blu-ray player. During the movie I checked the sub level and it was -7.5 on the avr. If I ever raised that to -3 my house would fall apart...lol. In all honesty, it is overkill. I had a few over while the movie was playing and they were stunned in more ways then one. Cant wait till i watch Cloverfield blu-ray. People have no clue what they are missing. Some could care less, but not us!

 

[mijotter]

Going to measure my LV12R with an SPL meter I bought. What volume should I set the receiver to? Whatever I listen to normally?

 

[coli]



Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24632395


What is the difference(if any) between the F15HP and the E15HP. How do they compare to the FV15HP?


I have the LV12R right now and am very happy with it, would either of those be significantly better?


Thank you.


Also, would setting the distance of the sub in AVR help with the null at my MLP?

Distance setting helps with nulls due to/at the cross-over point only.

 

[steveting99]



Quote:
Originally Posted by bearchan  /t/1214550/official-rythmik-audio-subwoofer-thread/15150#post_24634488


Jim Wilson's review of the Salk/Rythmik 15 With Dual 15" Passive Radiators .

Those passive radiators on the side sure looks interesting and would like to know the output of this unit? Is it more than the F25/FV15HP? If so, by how much? Being a new design, the rattling sound of the passive radiators for ultra low frequencies (below 20Hz) seems to be the weak point. Enabling the rumble filter seems to cure this.


I'm thinking that for a large room (>5,000 ft3) a pair of these would be a good option. Price seems reasonable at $,1895 per unit considering the component costs of about $1,000 according to Jim's write-up (excluding the woodwork and finishing).


So who's interested in getting a pair for their mansion home theater?