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Hello all, I'm close to pulling the trigger on the 60" KS8000 and have been skimming through this thread, doing searches, etc. Have a few questions if anyone can clarify:

1) I would be connecting a Directv DVR, gaming PC, and PS4 to the OCB with audio running over optical to my AVR for dolby digital.

I also have a blu ray player (not investing in a 4k player just yet) which I was planning to connect via hdmi to the AVR for the HD audio, then running an hdmi cable from the AVR to the OCB. So basically for all sources except blu ray, I would select 'TV' on the receiver (the optical in), and 'BD' when watching blu ray. First question is this:

For the blu ray player, is it ok to go hdmi to the AVR, then hdmi from the AVR to the OCB in this setup for the blu? Or is it better to get an HDMI splitter, where the blu ray player can connect to the OCB for the picture, and simultaneously to the AVR for the sound? Is is 6 one way, half-dozen the other? Any method really better than the other here?

2) I notice rtings settings have auto motion set to "off". I would likely do the same as I don't like the SOE. When set to off, how's the blur especially on a 720p or 1080i source such as Directv? I'm coming from a 2008 Sony 1080p model where I never really notice any blur or judder. I understand Sony tends to do a bit better in this regard, but the Sony x850 seems to get lower marks in all other respects (save for viewing angle) than the ks8000. Would the Sony x930D be comparable enough to consider it instead?

3) Somewhat related to #2 above, is blur or judder potentially more noticeable on 4ks in general? Or does increased resolution not really factor into that?

Thanks!
 

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For the most part mine is pretty much the default with some minor tweaks. Backlight at 6, Brightness at 44 and Dynamic Contrast to Medium. Looking at what you posted, that's the only difference in our Movie Mode settings. I wouldn't mess with any of the other stuff. You usually cause more harm than good. Just find something that works for you.



Think of it like a computer or any other smart device. Sometimes you have to reboot or force quit something to get everything back to scratch. At least that's what I tell myself when I have to remove the battery case from the remote or sign back into YouTube :rolleyes:
Definitely. Complex or poorly designed software has a much easier time starting over then trying to figure out where it's at.
 

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Hello all, I'm close to pulling the trigger on the 60" KS8000 and have been skimming through this thread, doing searches, etc. Have a few questions if anyone can clarify:

1) I would be connecting a Directv DVR, gaming PC, and PS4 to the OCB with audio running over optical to my AVR for dolby digital.

I also have a blu ray player (not investing in a 4k player just yet) which I was planning to connect via hdmi to the AVR for the HD audio, then running an hdmi cable from the AVR to the OCB. So basically for all sources except blu ray, I would select 'TV' on the receiver (the optical in), and 'BD' when watching blu ray. First question is this:

For the blu ray player, is it ok to go hdmi to the AVR, then hdmi from the AVR to the OCB in this setup for the blu? Or is it better to get an HDMI splitter, where the blu ray player can connect to the OCB for the picture, and simultaneously to the AVR for the sound? Is is 6 one way, half-dozen the other? Any method really better than the other here?

2) I notice rtings settings have auto motion set to "off". I would likely do the same as I don't like the SOE. When set to off, how's the blur especially on a 720p or 1080i source such as Directv? I'm coming from a 2008 Sony 1080p model where I never really notice any blur or judder. I understand Sony tends to do a bit better in this regard, but the Sony x850 seems to get lower marks in all other respects (save for viewing angle) than the ks8000. Would the Sony x930D be comparable enough to consider it instead?

3) Somewhat related to #2 above, is blur or judder potentially more noticeable on 4ks in general? Or does increased resolution not really factor into that?

Thanks!
I suggest you read the first post and the excellent PDF file that has been put together. Read that and come back with anything it doesn't answer. Also look back a few pages as often your query will have already been asked and answered. Lastly use the search function 'Search this Thread' button, top right, it's useful as well. Good luck!
 

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The Tv can take Atmos/TrueHD videos and decode them down to dolby digital 5.1 via my Plex app.. if that was the case they'd just say it supports atmos. If you're going to advertise something you do it to it's max potential. DD+ is the theoretical max for HDMI ARC 2.0a, which is why it supports that via the hardware.

I called them via the phone and they confirmed it should work but a bug, of course they were useless and wouldn't submit the bug to their support and told me to update to the latest firmware first and call them back. Which I will do.

Has anyone on here actually tried calling their support and complaining about this issue? Or have you just decided for yourselves DD+ over ARC won't work and so be it?

Note I use a AVR, and it's probably why I care. Someone with a sound bar wouldn't care about this feature or potential sound loss.
You're wasting your time, but if it's how you wish to spend some of your free time, more power to ya. Your 200 signatures(if you get them), will mean and do absolutely nothing. You could have over a thousand and Samsung will not care.

Good luck with your complaint.
 

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Hello all, I'm close to pulling the trigger on the 60" KS8000 and have been skimming through this thread, doing searches, etc. Have a few questions if anyone can clarify:

1) I would be connecting a Directv DVR, gaming PC, and PS4 to the OCB with audio running over optical to my AVR for dolby digital.

I also have a blu ray player (not investing in a 4k player just yet) which I was planning to connect via hdmi to the AVR for the HD audio, then running an hdmi cable from the AVR to the OCB. So basically for all sources except blu ray, I would select 'TV' on the receiver (the optical in), and 'BD' when watching blu ray. First question is this:

For the blu ray player, is it ok to go hdmi to the AVR, then hdmi from the AVR to the OCB in this setup for the blu? Or is it better to get an HDMI splitter, where the blu ray player can connect to the OCB for the picture, and simultaneously to the AVR for the sound? Is is 6 one way, half-dozen the other? Any method really better than the other here?

2) I notice rtings settings have auto motion set to "off". I would likely do the same as I don't like the SOE. When set to off, how's the blur especially on a 720p or 1080i source such as Directv? I'm coming from a 2008 Sony 1080p model where I never really notice any blur or judder. I understand Sony tends to do a bit better in this regard, but the Sony x850 seems to get lower marks in all other respects (save for viewing angle) than the ks8000. Would the Sony x930D be comparable enough to consider it instead?

3) Somewhat related to #2 above, is blur or judder potentially more noticeable on 4ks in general? Or does increased resolution not really factor into that?

Thanks!
I suggest you read the first post and the excellent PDF file that has been put together. Read that and come back with anything it doesn't answer. Also look back a few pages as often your query will have already been asked and answered. Lastly use the search function 'Search this Thread' button, top right, it's useful as well. Good luck!
And to add to what @blenky suggested, when you read the first post you'll notice the mods have stated this is not a "help me choose" thread.

Good luck with your decision.
 

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Looks like Samsung was BSing last year if this is true. According to John Archer on Twitter,



I can't post links, but his Twitter handleis BigJohnnyArcher.
It's samsung's bs codeword for, We can do it, but we'd rather you buy our current year model TV instead. So we'll pretend it's a hardware issue.
 

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Yes I have. Nothing.

Do I have to have it unplugged for a certain amount of time?
Try Universal Remote Setup on each device. Also, try editing the specific device by holding down the cursor button on it.

Make sure you're on the latest firmware.

Mine had some issues a few months back and has settled down to perfection!
 

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Nevertheless, this TV doesn't support the theoretical max. It's been discussed many times before on this thread.

I'm aware of your discussions. Discussions are just that. I figure if they advertise the feature, I'm going all the way to the top with my support requests and attempt to get it added with DD+ support through HDMI plus. What they did with VUDU is took their DD+ 5.1 and downgraded it to DD 5.1. I'm guessing that was their workaround, which isn't cool. Well worse comes to worse my request was submitted to the firmware guys to look at after a second call. Let's see what comes of it.
 

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Since I'm having problems with ARC and the way my KS8000 and my Sony AVR work together (basically each seems to fiddle with the other in ways that are massively annoying, changing sources when they shouldn't), I'm thinking of deactivating ARC functionality and using a coaxial or optical cable for any sound that goes through the TV first. Primarily this means Netflix and YouTube.

As I originally switched to ARC because I read that there were cases where coaxial/optical cable could only deliver stereo sound in the highest quality (IIRC that was the case with PS4 and PCM), I wanted to ask: will my TV send a high-quality 5.1 signal to the AVR when I play Netflix or YouTube material?
 

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I'm aware of your discussions.
Ok that's cool - you kept posting as if you weren't! :)

Well worse comes to worse my request was submitted to the firmware guys to look at after a second call. Let's see what comes of it.
Indeed.

One thing that's certainly not fixed in the 1165.1 firmware is the "overlapping text in the web browser control" bug. The YouTube app uses this webbrowser control so it is most commonly visible when using the YouTube app, although it's the underlying system at fault not the YouTube app. It's happening pretty aggressively every day for me now, and the "hold down return button" method of quitting the app no longer works, either :mad:
 

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Since I'm having problems with ARC and the way my KS8000 and my Sony AVR work together (basically each seems to fiddle with the other in ways that are massively annoying, changing sources when they shouldn't), I'm thinking of deactivating ARC functionality and using a coaxial or optical cable for any sound that goes through the TV first. Primarily this means Netflix and YouTube.

As I originally switched to ARC because I read that there were cases where coaxial/optical cable could only deliver stereo sound in the highest quality (IIRC that was the case with PS4 and PCM), I wanted to ask: will my TV send a high-quality 5.1 signal to the AVR when I play Netflix or YouTube material?
The TV sends the same signal that it sends over ARC via Optical. There is no difference.
 

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Since I'm having problems with ARC and the way my KS8000 and my Sony AVR work together (basically each seems to fiddle with the other in ways that are massively annoying, changing sources when they shouldn't), I'm thinking of deactivating ARC functionality and using a coaxial or optical cable for any sound that goes through the TV first. Primarily this means Netflix and YouTube.

As I originally switched to ARC because I read that there were cases where coaxial/optical cable could only deliver stereo sound in the highest quality (IIRC that was the case with PS4 and PCM), I wanted to ask: will my TV send a high-quality 5.1 signal to the AVR when I play Netflix or YouTube material?
YouTube has always been, and continues to be, 2.0 stereo-only on all platforms.

As for the others - high-quality: nope. None of the HD lossless audio formats are possible with ARC.

All that this TV can do with ARC is send 1990's DVD-quality, lossy compressed, DD5.1 or DTS5.1 ie exactly the same as can be sent down an S/PDIF connection.

Some TVs can also send lossy DD+, but not this one [currently - see above posts]. ARC has extremely limited bandwidth; it is hijacking spare pins to cram the signal down the cable.
 

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It's samsung's bs codeword for, We can do it, but we'd rather you buy our current year model TV instead. So we'll pretend it's a hardware issue.
Ha, but they can't pretend that - they demonstrated it in public last year running on last year's models :D There's a video here: http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1463138030

At the time, they were boasting they could do it easily. Very unlikely they'd do such a huge U-turn so IMHO I expect John Archer has been misinformed. We'll have to wait to find out obviously.
 

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YouTube has always been, and continues to be, 2.0 stereo-only on all platforms.

As for the others - high-quality: nope. None of the HD lossless audio formats are possible with ARC.

All that this TV can do with ARC is send 1990's DVD-quality, lossy compressed, DD5.1 or DTS5.1 ie exactly the same as can be sent down an S/PDIF connection.

Some TVs can also send lossy DD+, but not this one [currently - see above posts]. ARC has extremely limited bandwidth; it is hijacking spare pins to cram the signal down the cable.
Thanks. In that case, do I understand correctly that I get the same audio whether I use ARC or digital/optical cable (which would also mean I could switch off Anynet+ and no longer be bothered by its annoyances), and for better audio I need to plug the sources directly into the AVR? This would also mean that I'd only use the TV's Netflix and YouTube app for HDR source material, since it seems that the PS4 Pro's apps don't do HDR yet.
 

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Since I'm having problems with ARC and the way my KS8000 and my Sony AVR work together (basically each seems to fiddle with the other in ways that are massively annoying, changing sources when they shouldn't), I'm thinking of deactivating ARC functionality and using a coaxial or optical cable for any sound that goes through the TV first. Primarily this means Netflix and YouTube.

As I originally switched to ARC because I read that there were cases where coaxial/optical cable could only deliver stereo sound in the highest quality (IIRC that was the case with PS4 and PCM), I wanted to ask: will my TV send a high-quality 5.1 signal to the AVR when I play Netflix or YouTube material?
Yes you will get a high quality 5.1 signal from the optical output on the one connect box and none of the problems with Arc. Just turn off Anynet on the TV and whatever it is called on your AVR. and they should stop fooling around with each other. That is my setup and it works just fine with none of the problems people are reporting with ARC and handshaking on this forum.
 

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Thanks. In that case, do I understand correctly that I get the same audio whether I use ARC or digital/optical cable (which would also mean I could switch off Anynet+ and no longer be bothered by its annoyances), and for better audio I need to plug the sources directly into the AVR? This would also mean that I'd only use the TV's Netflix and YouTube app for HDR source material, since it seems that the PS4 Pro's apps don't do HDR yet.
You're welcome and yes, that's my understanding. ARC when it works well has a small advantage of auto-selecting the TV input on the AVR, other than that you may as well use optical.

I've also in the past used my Samsung 4K BD player for HDR content from Amazon, to allow for better audio quality (going down the HDMI cable in the normal direction) - the Samsung 4K BD player outputted DD+ 5.1 to the AVR. No idea what the audio bitrate was, and the Amazon app just says "5.1" as if that's supposed to be enough information :rolleyes: . If I use the TV's Amazon app instead, it's much faster to navigate - actually useable! - but it's only DD5.1 . It may be the exact same audio packaged up in a DD container instead of a DD+container; and/or it may use more audio bandwidth for the DD one due to less compression - we can't know. Without bitrates or a way of accurately comparing the two streams.... :(
 

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Ha, but they can't pretend that - they demonstrated it in public last year running on last year's models :D There's a video here: http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1463138030

At the time, they were boasting they could do it easily. Very unlikely they'd do such a huge U-turn so IMHO I expect John Archer has been misinformed. We'll have to wait to find out obviously.
Since Samsung doesn't tell us what is included in the firmwares, and since there is no Dynamic HDR test material that I know of, how do we know we don't already have Dynamic HDR capabilities? Seems like people are already calling Samsung out for bailing on their promise of adding it. We don't even have Dynamic HDR material available, so even if we don't have it, what's the rush? Samsung has a history of supporting their TVs well past the time when the next models come out, so I'm not too concerned personally.
 
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