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So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
Correct. What you are seeing is close to the maximum rate that 100Mb tv connection can deliver. The point I was trying to make is that the TV is not throttling anything. If you have QoS on the router then the router can throttle and if your ISP has a problem with your data, it will also throttle. Internally home networks are subject to all types of congestion and interference and other bandwidth issues. It doesn't change the fact that wireless AC is many times faster than 100Mb connection, unless your router is located on the other side of the house and the neighbors are all using the same channels etc.
In my case wireless is faster than wired and both experience the same performance issues with certain apps so it's not a speed issue.
 

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Wireless is faster than ethernet? Since when and in what parallel universe? I have a Wireless AC router but the TV's wireless signal is wishy washy at best.
I have run so many tests of this and I find that under optimal conditions, wired and wireless connections support the same data rates. However, because of the variables inherent in wireless technology, I will always choose to use a wired connection - if available. Just MHO. :)
 

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Hello,
I think it was mentioned earlier but how do I know if my KS8000 is playing Ultra HD content? I am watching Breaking Bad (again!) but this time on Ultra HD using Netflix. I use Harmony remote and sound is connected through my Denon X2300 AVR through optical cable. I read about HDR+ in comments posted earlier and turned that setting on.

But the question still remains. I keep reading about an option where I can see the quality of the video but I can never get to it...

Thanks for your help.
 

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Sounds pretty awesome - did you purchase any kind of protection plan? im just worried about (potentially) getting a bad screen ie light bleed or something and have to go through a return process. Glad everything went well for you. The KS8000 is available for 24 month 0% financing so that's why I'm leaning toward amazon for my purchase.


No purchase protection plan. Samsung gives 1 year and my credit card gives an extra year. I have also heard that SquareTrade is a pain to deal with. All things considered, I concluded that the cost of an extended protection plan is less than probability of break in years 3-5 * cost of new TV - joy of getting a new TV early.

I think the chance of getting a dud would be the same at Amazon vs Best Buy, as both have large stock and turnover and have reputations to hold. My suggestion is to go with the company that is most convenient to you (some people prefer pickup/returning in store vs having someone deliver/pick it up), be mentally prepared that there is a (small) chance of getting a bad set, and don't be overly perfectionistic.
 

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Cannot compare ? For my OTA viewing, I can compare and have.

Spent three hours today on this KS800D and my two HU8550. Wrote down all the settings on the three sets. The KS800D now has 75% of the quality of the HU8550 55" and 65% of the quality of the 60: HU8550.

KS800D ISSUES
1. Sound not as good as the HU8550
2. Whites are not white
3. Motion vibration or stuttering, which is not present in the HU8550. Movement occurs in steps, and is not smooth like the HU8550
4. Artifacts in white letters (pix taken)
5. Blacks are not as black as the HU8550
6. Colors not as vibrant as HU8550, and rising the Color to 100 does not completely cure this. Flesh tones slightly orange.


QUESTIONS
1. How to make the blacks blacker?
2. How to make the whites whiter ?
3. How to reduce or eliminate white lettering artifacts?
4. How to reduce or eliminate video stuttering?



CURRENT SETTINGS KS800D

Movie
18
Bright 18-23
Contrast 100
Sharp 70
Col 58
Tint 48/52
DCV off
AMP off
SLED high
Film mode off
DC High
Col Tone Std

White Bal
2 pt.
R off -7
G off -6
B off -8
R gain -1
G gain -1
B gain -4

10 pt.
10% (RGB) -13 -14 -15
20% -11 -11 -13
30% 0 -1 -1
40% 3 3 10
50% -4 -3 -1
60% -8 -8 -9
70% -10 -9 -6
80% -12 -9 -7
90% -7 -6 -8
100% -1 -3 -8

Gamma 0
RGB off
Color Space Custom
Mag (RGB) 38 8 48
Cyan 20 46 55
Yellow 54 52 6
Blue 0 3 60
Green 22 55 6
Red 40 8 2

Sound Speaker, Std
Audio Dolby Dig (? should this be PCM?)
Delay 40
Auto vol off
Send feedback off
EcoSensor off
Energy Saving off
Auto power off

Software 1114 with no update available.
- Sharpness at 70 will definitely give you artifacts. Turn that down to 20 or less. 0 is the real picture unless you're in PC mode.
- Your TV is not bright because you set brightness so low. Default brightness is 45.
- Default Color setting is 50. You're going to get over saturation when you go higher than that.
- IMO Dynamic Contrast at high is way too saturated for SDR content. I have it Off for regular SDR content, and I only use it for HDR and HDR+.
- Did you calibrate your White Balance and Color Space settings yourself? What you have is way off from what I have (all of my White Balance settings are 0, and I have Color Space to Native for SDR content). I could see how that is totally messing with your "white is not white" if you don't have proper calibration gear.

What were your settings out of the box? If your White Balance and Color Space were already customized out of the box, it makes me think that you got a used and returned set. Those settings should not be customized fresh out of the box.
 

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- Sharpness at 70 will definitely give you artifacts. Turn that down to 20 or less. 0 is the real picture unless you're in PC mode.
- Your TV is not bright because you set brightness so low. Default brightness is 45.
- Default Color setting is 50. You're going to get over saturation when you go higher than that.
- IMO Dynamic Contrast at high is way too saturated for SDR content. I have it Off for regular SDR content, and I only use it for HDR and HDR+.
- Did you calibrate your White Balance and Color Space settings yourself? What you have is way off from what I have (all of my White Balance settings are 0, and I have Color Space to Native for SDR content). I could see how that is totally messing with your "white is not white" if you don't have proper calibration gear.

What were your settings out of the box? If your White Balance and Color Space were already customized out of the box, it makes me think that you got a used and returned set. Those settings should not be customized fresh out of the box.

These settings were virtually all from rtings.com .HERE: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000/settings

My HU8550 sharpnesses are at 80-85 and look fine.... no artifacts.

The brightness is at 45. Made a typo in that post. Sorry.

Thank you for your suggestions. Will try them.
 

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Hello,
I think it was mentioned earlier but how do I know if my KS8000 is playing Ultra HD content? I am watching Breaking Bad (again!) but this time on Ultra HD using Netflix. I use Harmony remote and sound is connected through my Denon X2300 AVR through optical cable. I read about HDR+ in comments posted earlier and turned that setting on.

But the question still remains. I keep reading about an option where I can see the quality of the video but I can never get to it...

Thanks for your help.
I have no idea how to do it on the Harmony remote, but on the regular remote, press "123", then select the info icon (the "i" with a circle). You should then see some text in the upper left corner. If the second line is "2160" then you are in UHD; if it says "1080" then you're just watching regular HD.
 

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I have no idea how to do it on the Harmony remote, but on the regular remote, press "123", then select the info icon (the "i" with a circle). You should then see some text in the upper left corner. If the second line is "2160" then you are in UHD; if it says "1080" then you're just watching regular HD.
thanks - exactly what I needed. Interestingly, that 'i' icon doesn't show up inside the Youtube screen. But when I am watching Breaking Bad on Netflix, it does show 2160...

Thanks again.
 

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thanks - exactly what I needed. Interestingly, that 'i' icon doesn't show up inside the Youtube screen. But when I am watching Breaking Bad on Netflix, it does show 2160...

Thanks again.
Yes, Youtube doesn't have the info button, but I've found that Youtube 4k videos (like the timescape ones) look a lot crisper than Netflix videos. I can immediately tell with the quality of the picture that it's 4k. If you haven't seen it yet, the Patagonia 8k video is stunning.
 

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For those of you using HDR+ for cable content don't you see a massive amount of blockiness in dark scenes? I've been having issues with blockiness since I got the TV but I've been trying to use HDR+ and it's WAY worse. It got me realizing contrast is causing the blockiness. Once I turned off dynamic contrast off and turned contrast down to 95 for movie mode it's significantly reduced. I'll deal with less pop. I'd rather have those damn artifacts gone.


Edit: Just wanted to add that I do not see the artifact issue on Blurays and other high quality content such as 4K streaming. I'll stick with HDR+ in those cases
 

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So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
How did you make the web page black mine is whits and wish it was revered like yours?
 

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- Sharpness at 70 will definitely give you artifacts. Turn that down to 20 or less. 0 is the real picture unless you're in PC mode.
- Your TV is not bright because you set brightness so low. Default brightness is 45.
- Default Color setting is 50. You're going to get over saturation when you go higher than that.
- IMO Dynamic Contrast at high is way too saturated for SDR content. I have it Off for regular SDR content, and I only use it for HDR and HDR+.
- Did you calibrate your White Balance and Color Space settings yourself? What you have is way off from what I have (all of my White Balance settings are 0, and I have Color Space to Native for SDR content). I could see how that is totally messing with your "white is not white" if you don't have proper calibration gear.

What were your settings out of the box? If your White Balance and Color Space were already customized out of the box, it makes me think that you got a used and returned set. Those settings should not be customized fresh out of the box.

Made all the changes you suggested, except left WB and CS alone. The picture is closer to the HU8550, but not enough. Blacks are still not black enough. Colors are not vibrant. Sharpness of 0 is just too blurry, and no where near the HU8550. 800D needs at least 50 on sharpness.

Set was definitely new, but I did not write down the defaults.

The poor tones are so obvious, don't need calibration gear. I adjusted both of my HU8550 sets without calibration gear, and they both are fine.

On the HU8550, the settings start with:

BL 16
Contrast 87
Bright 46
Sharp 82
Color 56
G43/R57
 

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Made all the changes you suggested, except left WB and CS alone. The picture is closer to the HU8550, but not enough. Blacks are still not black enough. Colors are not vibrant. Sharpness of 0 is just too blurry, and no where near the HU8550. 800D needs at least 50 on sharpness.



Set was definitely new, but I did not write down the defaults.



The poor tones are so obvious, don't need calibration gear. I adjusted both of my HU8550 sets without calibration gear, and they both are fine.



On the HU8550, the settings start with:



BL 16

Contrast 87

Bright 46

Sharp 82

Color 56

G43/R57


The KS8000 is supposed to be a lot better than TVs from 2 generations ago. Others here have compared the KS8000 with the HU8550 and have verified that they also think so. Ultimately, if you are still unhappy with your purchase after hours of tweaking, you should return it. We just have different opinions and experiences with our TVs.
 

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So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
Ok I got curious with all of this bandwidth testing, so I did my own at bandwidthplace.com I got 47/56 Mbps on the TV (wired) and 59/62 Mbps on my laptop (wireless). Looks like TV is slightly slower than laptop, but both are pretty close to my FIOS plan of 50/50 Mbps, so that's good enough for me!

On a side note, do you guys find that you need anything above 50/50 Mbps? Maybe I'm just cheap...
 

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No purchase protection plan. Samsung gives 1 year and my credit card gives an extra year. I have also heard that SquareTrade is a pain to deal with. All things considered, I concluded that the cost of an extended protection plan is less than probability of break in years 3-5 * cost of new TV - joy of getting a new TV early.

I think the chance of getting a dud would be the same at Amazon vs Best Buy, as both have large stock and turnover and have reputations to hold. My suggestion is to go with the company that is most convenient to you (some people prefer pickup/returning in store vs having someone deliver/pick it up), be mentally prepared that there is a (small) chance of getting a bad set, and don't be overly perfectionistic.

It's $80 for SquareTrade® protection plan (buy the plan at Costco - - - you need not buy the set at Costco), and they are highly rated. When a GPS went bad, it took five minutes on the phone and they sent a prepaid mailer. As soon as the package was sent from a UPS store, SquareTrade issued a PayPal credit for the purchase price minus sales tax.

Have other ST plans but haven't used them. They often have 10%-40% off coupon codes

The vast majority of panel failures are in the first year=, termed "infant mortality".
 

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So far, what I can conclude is that if your KS8500 is Ethernet hard-wired (like mine), the TV will not throttling the connection. Mine is getting the max for my Verizon FIOS plan (75/75mbps). See the attached results for bandwidthplace.com and the Netflix network check.


Wired connection can actually be faster than wireless since 1) it does not have the encryption overhead that a wireless connection does. For a wired network, it's straight data from the router to the TV. When a wireless network is involved, the router has to encrypt the packets first, sends to the TV, which then decrypt the packets before it is usable. 2) Additionally, all wireless devices shares the same Wi-Fi connection. For example, if you have 4 wireless devices connected to your (say 300mbps) Wireless router, it is split between all 4, so on average, you might end up with a 75mbps throughput per device. This is oversimplifying things since you also have to consider whether the other devices are idle or active....etc.
Ok I got curious with all of this bandwidth testing, so I did my own at bandwidthplace.com I got 47/56 Mbps on the TV (wired) and 59/62 Mbps on my laptop (wireless). Looks like TV is slightly slower than laptop, but both are pretty close to my FIOS plan of 50/50 Mbps, so that's good enough for me!

On a side note, do you guys find that you need anything above 50/50 Mbps? Maybe I'm just cheap...
For basic web surfing and streaming 50/50 is more than enough unless you have multiple users (3+) hogging the connection at one time. When you start downloading large files on a regular basis and hosting your own server 150/150 is nice to have.
 

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No purchase protection plan. Samsung gives 1 year and my credit card gives an extra year. I have also heard that SquareTrade is a pain to deal with. All things considered, I concluded that the cost of an extended protection plan is less than probability of break in years 3-5 * cost of new TV - joy of getting a new TV early.

I think the chance of getting a dud would be the same at Amazon vs Best Buy, as both have large stock and turnover and have reputations to hold. My suggestion is to go with the company that is most convenient to you (some people prefer pickup/returning in store vs having someone deliver/pick it up), be mentally prepared that there is a (small) chance of getting a bad set, and don't be overly perfectionistic.


If you use the Citibank VISA consumer credit card (Costco), it adds TWO YEARS to the manufacturer's warranty, whereas the Citibank Business VISA adds one year. The neat thing is that the no charge extension of one or two years is applied AFTER the manufacturer's warranty and AFTER any extended warranty. For Hisense that gets you 4 + 2 or at least six years. For the KS800D at Costco, that 2 years (manufacturer & Costco) + 3 years ST ($90) + 2 years Citibank for a total of SEVEN YEARS for the mere $90 extra.

The most a four or five year TV plan costs $90 (from Costco), more if you buy it from square trade.com .
 

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For those of you using HDR+ for cable content don't you see a massive amount of blockiness in dark scenes? I've been having issues with blockiness since I got the TV but I've been trying to use HDR+ and it's WAY worse. It got me realizing contrast is causing the blockiness. Once I turned off dynamic contrast off and turned contrast down to 95 for movie mode it's significantly reduced. I'll deal with less pop. I'd rather have those damn artifacts gone.


Edit: Just wanted to add that I do not see the artifact issue on Blurays and other high quality content such as 4K streaming. I'll stick with HDR+ in those cases


Yep, the better the source the better it is. Lower sources give faces a weird metallic look.
 

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Can you check that AutoMotion Plus is turned off specifically for HDR+? The TV treats HDR+ as a totally separate mode, so turning off AutoMotion Plus in Movie mode will not carry over to HDR+. You'll need to explicitly turn it off again in HDR+.
Well of course that was it. I didn't realize it was a real separate mode. Thanks!
 
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