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Not sure how that works. Is there a VESA bracket on the TV for a universal VESA stand?

Consult the manual. Most TVs are VESA compliant (have VESA holes) It's the same as mounting the TV to the wall, except it comes with a stand as well.
 

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Samsung F8500

Stopping into the local electronics store today to finally get a look at the 8K TV'S. I was somewhat thrilled at a few although I am still happy with my plasma. My question is can I get a even better quality picture with a Evolution kit? Samsung is offering a SEK-4500. My set is a 2014 model. From reading I see that the SEK-3500 is more of a upgrade, although discontinued. What would be my best option, look on Ebay for a 3500, go for the 4500, or will I not see a true picture quality increase with either?
 

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If you want a better picture quality, nr1 you should invest for a calibration.. Especially Plasma tvs change alot over time..

That said: The new 2018 (SEK-4500) Evolution Kit for a 2013 tv is still a very interesting option.. Picture quality most likely will not improve, but you get for sure newest apps.. I think it is great that Samsung pulled this of after many complaints..

https://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1537441037
 

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these things are cheap now, albeit used. i originally picked up 60" for my main viewer, but recently picked up a couple of mint 51" versions for $150 and 180 respectively - one for the bedroom and one for a friend who i refused to allow the purchase of a newer (o)led tv. :)

if you like this model, keep your eyes peeled.


thesharkman
 

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Hey guys been a while since I been on here! Anyway I have a 65F8500, I say 5-7 years old and now I only get sound no picture at all--I have tried diff sources and diff HDMI cables and no change at all. No screen blink on initial turn on, just plain black screen. Im hoping someone has had this issue and what fixed it or should I just Junk it and go with something new, guess that will depend on if easy or expensive fix--
 

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Hey guys been a while since I been on here! Anyway I have a 65F8500, I say 5-7 years old and now I only get sound no picture at all--I have tried diff sources and diff HDMI cables and no change at all. No screen blink on initial turn on, just plain black screen. Im hoping someone has had this issue and what fixed it or should I just Junk it and go with something new, guess that will depend on if easy or expensive fix--
Any action on the red LED?
Such as
Power On
(black screen)
2 sec pause
1,3 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink total nine 0,5 secs blinks
4,7 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink total four 1 sec blinks
Sound comes on but still black screen.

Take a look at this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-plasma-flat-panel-displays/1959809-samsung-pn64f8500afxza-issues-turning-18.html
 

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Hey guys been a while since I been on here! Anyway I have a 65F8500, I say 5-7 years old and now I only get sound no picture at all--I have tried diff sources and diff HDMI cables and no change at all. No screen blink on initial turn on, just plain black screen. Im hoping someone has had this issue and what fixed it or should I just Junk it and go with something new, guess that will depend on if easy or expensive fix--
Yeah, that sounds like the Y Sustain board issue discussed in the thread posted just above. The issue is three ceramic capacitors on that board, wherein Samsung cheaped out and used capacitors that were not properly rated for the level of heat that occurs inside the 65F8500.


It's a couple of hundred dollar fix if you can find the board (which is hard to find because of the high failure rate) on eBay or from an online parts place. It's about a $50 - $60 fix is you buy the capacitors for a few dollars and take the board to a local repair service to do the soldering. It's a few dollars to fix if you do the soldering yourself.


In my case, I removed the board and took it to a local guy who soldered the new caps onto the board for $50, because the soldering looked a bit too picky for my skills. A lot of people did the job themselves. Everything you need to know is in that thread mentioned just above.
 

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Yeah, that sounds like the Y Sustain board issue discussed in the thread posted just above. The issue is three ceramic capacitors on that board, wherein Samsung cheaped out and used capacitors that were not properly rated for the level of heat that occurs inside the 65F8500.


It's a couple of hundred dollar fix if you can find the board (which is hard to find because of the high failure rate) on eBay or from an online parts place. It's about a $50 - $60 fix is you buy the capacitors for a few dollars and take the board to a local repair service to do the soldering. It's a few dollars to fix if you do the soldering yourself.


In my case, I removed the board and took it to a local guy who soldered the new caps onto the board for $50, because the soldering looked a bit too picky for my skills. A lot of people did the job themselves. Everything you need to know is in that thread mentioned just above.

I was just going through that thread and was thinking how can it be the capacitors, so even with my TV coming ON (No picture but sound) it could still be those Capacitors? I can do the soldering myself so if thats all it is hopefully that would be great----Are these the correct capacitors to get?

Do you have a part number for the entire board, Im going to pull my back panel off tonight and start looking things over!

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/FG20X7S1H106KRT06?qs=qf2ddTMq67WcrUW7BHxGTg==
 

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I was just going through that thread and was thinking how can it be the capacitors, so even with my TV coming ON (No picture but sound) it could still be those Capacitors? I can do the soldering myself so if thats all it is hopefully that would be great----Are these the correct capacitors to get?

Do you have a part number for the entire board, Im going to pull my back panel off tonight and start looking things over!

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/FG20X7S1H106KRT06?qs=qf2ddTMq67WcrUW7BHxGTg==
They are the ones I got but they seem to be out of stock now.


Note: The ones I replaced looked perfectly fine visually.
 

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I was just going through that thread and was thinking how can it be the capacitors, so even with my TV coming ON (No picture but sound) it could still be those Capacitors? I can do the soldering myself so if thats all it is hopefully that would be great----Are these the correct capacitors to get?

Do you have a part number for the entire board, Im going to pull my back panel off tonight and start looking things over!

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/FG20X7S1H106KRT06?qs=qf2ddTMq67WcrUW7BHxGTg==

The caps linked in your post are the right ones. If Mouser is out of stock (because so many people are fixing their Samsung TV's), it is surely available elsewhere.

As far as "how can it be the capacitors", my understanding is that the Y-SUS-Board talks to the firmware, and the firmware says "Your capacitance is not OK, so no picture". I read on these forums that a firmware fix was released in Korea so that the TV would work with bad caps, but that firmware was not made available to the USA.

If you are going to pull your back panel off tonight and start looking things over, that is the best way by far to get the right part number for a replacement board.

And, I would suggest never buying any Samsung product, ever again, because Samsung really treats their customers like ****.


EDIT: And when replacing the caps, chop the old caps off at the junction between the cap body and the "legs", and leave the old legs sticking up, and then solder the legs of the new caps to the stumps of the old caps legs. Because you don't want to replace the legs going though a multi-layer circuit board.
 

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Any action on the red LED?
Such as
Power On
(black screen)
2 sec pause
1,3 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink
4 sec pause
0,5 sec blink total nine 0,5 secs blinks
4,7 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink
1 sec pause
1 sec blink total four 1 sec blinks
Sound comes on but still black screen.

Take a look at this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/167-plasma-flat-panel-displays/1959809-samsung-pn64f8500afxza-issues-turning-18.html

Looks like it blinks 10 times with a pause then 4 more at a slightly higher blink rate?
 

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Just a report on some odd behavior and the actions that seemed to have corrected it.


PROBLEM: Five year old PN51F8500 recently developed a single red sub-pixel vertical line running top to bottom an inch or two left of dead center (with all video input sources as well as the TV's built-in menu screens). The red sub-pixels were not dead, but rather appeared to misfire relative to the intended total pixel color. For example they would lite up in a region of solid blue and remain off in a region of solid red. Pure white areas looked normal. Examination under magnification indicated the blue and green sub-pixel were working fine and matched those in the lines of pixels to either side. Only the red sub-pixels were out-of-sync relative to the adjacent vertical lines.


"FIX": Initially the line disappeared on its own after about a week. However it reappeared several days later and had remained for weeks. After being unable to locate any forum posts that fit this exact case, and before opening up the set and fooling around with voltages or cable connections, etc., I tried the following. I simply displayed the built-in test image: Menu>Support>Self Diagnosis>Picture Test>OK and noticed the line had immediately disappeared. Upon returning to normal video content I saw the line was no longer there as well. After a minute, unfortunately it returned. So I repeated displaying the test image a second time. Again the line immediately disappeared and has not returned for several days now.


So any comments? Has anyone seen this kind of behavior before or understand the underlying cause behind something like this single line of sub-pixel misfire? TIA
 

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Just a report on some odd behavior and the actions that seemed to have corrected it.

PROBLEM: Five year old PN51F8500 recently developed a single red sub-pixel vertical line running top to bottom an inch or two left of dead center (with all video input sources as well as the TV's built-in menu screens). The red sub-pixels were not dead, but rather appeared to misfire relative to the intended total pixel color. For example they would lite up in a region of solid blue and remain off in a region of solid red. Pure white areas looked normal. Examination under magnification indicated the blue and green sub-pixel were working fine and matched those in the lines of pixels to either side. Only the red sub-pixels were out-of-sync relative to the adjacent vertical lines.

"FIX": Initially the line disappeared on its own after about a week. However it reappeared several days later and had remained for weeks. After being unable to locate any forum posts that fit this exact case, and before opening up the set and fooling around with voltages or cable connections, etc., I tried the following. I simply displayed the built-in test image: Menu>Support>Self Diagnosis>Picture Test>OK and noticed the line had immediately disappeared. Upon returning to normal video content I saw the line was no longer there as well. After a minute, unfortunately it returned. So I repeated displaying the test image a second time. Again the line immediately disappeared and has not returned for several days now.

So any comments? Has anyone seen this kind of behavior before or understand the underlying cause behind something like this single line of sub-pixel misfire? TIA
My 60FN8500 developed a thin blue/green vertical line three inches from the left side several weeks ago. The fix you suggested didn't have any effect with my set. The line was only perceptible against certain backgrounds at first, but now it has thickened and is visible all of the time. When trying your fix, I noticed a second line has developed just to the right of the first.

I don't know if my line is from the same cause as yours, but in my limited research (searching the web for "F8500 plasma vertical line"), the more knowledgeable responses I saw said it was a panel issue and the fix was to replace the panel.

There were some suggestions to open up the back and clean certain connections. I came across this YouTube video showing how to do this with an earlier Samsung model, although even he still had one vertical line when he finished:

I've been reluctant to try this on mine as of yet, and may just use the lines as an excuse to replace my F8500 with a 4K OLED.
 

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Thanks koan,

Unfortunately my line returned. Repeatedly displaying the diagnosis picture has not caused a similar effect and the line continues to appear and disappears randomly over time. I'm not a big believer in coincidence so I think the procedure probably had some effect, but whatever the source of the problem is it's borderline and the effect was marginal or temporary. I'll admit it was just an attempt at grasping at straws. I'll probably get around to removing the back panel to check voltages and cable connection since I've got nothing to lose by trying.


UPDATE 4/6: Well sometimes it pays to procrastinate... the "phantom" line disappeared on it's own again :smile:. Only been a week now, so who knows how long it will last this time. Definitively an intermittent problem and will bite the bullet to perform a little set surgery if it returns again.
 

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Just a report on some odd behavior and the actions that seemed to have corrected it.


PROBLEM: Five year old PN51F8500 recently developed a single red sub-pixel vertical line running top to bottom an inch or two left of dead center (with all video input sources as well as the TV's built-in menu screens). The red sub-pixels were not dead, but rather appeared to misfire relative to the intended total pixel color. For example they would lite up in a region of solid blue and remain off in a region of solid red. Pure white areas looked normal. Examination under magnification indicated the blue and green sub-pixel were working fine and matched those in the lines of pixels to either side. Only the red sub-pixels were out-of-sync relative to the adjacent vertical lines.


"FIX": Initially the line disappeared on its own after about a week. However it reappeared several days later and had remained for weeks. After being unable to locate any forum posts that fit this exact case, and before opening up the set and fooling around with voltages or cable connections, etc., I tried the following. I simply displayed the built-in test image: Menu>Support>Self Diagnosis>Picture Test>OK and noticed the line had immediately disappeared. Upon returning to normal video content I saw the line was no longer there as well. After a minute, unfortunately it returned. So I repeated displaying the test image a second time. Again the line immediately disappeared and has not returned for several days now.


So any comments? Has anyone seen this kind of behavior before or understand the underlying cause behind something like this single line of sub-pixel misfire? TIA

I think that advice is right on target, about all you can do is try to fix/see if it's the connections. When I fixed my Panasonic (which is still working BTW!). the hardest part was getting all the display connections 'reconnected' and when they were not I got lines like what like I think you are describing. If it's the panel you're just SOL.
 

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pdf51f8500 works again

I just repaired the power supply for a pn51f8500. It had the symptoms, from post 13171. The blinking red light, turns on and off, etc.. I had checked for cold solder joints in the power supply, but I had not removed all of the silicone blobs from all of the mosfets. I removed it again, removed more blobs, and the one closest to the power cord had no leg sticking out of the solder. Broken before the solder was flowed over the board? The area around where the leg should have been was cracked looking. I flowed some more solder around it, and it now works. I also redid some other of the mosfets, because, why not.
It can take cold solder joints a long time to show up. Several years ago, a Stereo 70 amp had dead tube, so I ordered replacements, and still no filament glow. It was a cold solder joint that appeared after about 45 years.
 

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Interesting observation 4K vs. F8500.

Watch "1080p Plasma TV vs 4K HDR LCD TV: Surprising results!!" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/1R94pRQK3rg
Not so amazing, an F8500 vs. a mid to low end 4K HDR LED LCD TV (from 2017 apparently) playing 1080p content.
The difference in color was distracting and could have been calibrated out. But the difference in motion resolution for the rippling stream was pretty dramatic.
 

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HDMI ports are out with "No signal"

Yesterday, while watching my PN64F8500, suddenly screen went blank with No Signal found error. So I thought, the Roku player connected to that hDMI port is gone. So I switched to Apple player connected to another port. I was able to watch for an hour or so, and the screen went blank with No HDMI signal error. Tried, hard reset, Hidden system menu reset, switched it off for 10 hours, no use. I have a beautiful TV with all it's HDMIs gone.

Any ideas, please? Is this time to to replace HDMI port board? Or time to buy new TV?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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