AVS Forum banner

14641 - 14660 of 14670 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
my PN8500 has recently developed some vertical lines across the screen.. first it was just on the left side then i got 2 more in the middle and towards the right side of the screen. i went on thinking if i replace the main board which has the T-con build it that it would fix my problem. however it did not, replace the board vertical lines still there which tells me it is not the main board / tcon. i also checked all ribbons to ensure they are clean and not damaged. can any one provide some input as to what i should be replacing next to potentially fix the problem or is this a panel issue (if it is, i probably wont even fix it) and mount this TV in my patio. thanks for your input in advance.
3032247
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Help me diagnose my PN60F8500 please. My TV have started having some kind of dead vertical lines on the left side. The lines are actually a bit of many colors and not stables. At first, there was only 1-2 lines but the number is slowly increasing.

According to this web site, it seems a control board malfunction

What do you think?

Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I've read through much of this thread and was hoping for some assistance. My 51'' has now turned off and immediately turned back on twice in the past two weeks. Is that a sign of either solder issues on the power board or the capacitor issue on the Y board? If so, which is more likely? Can someone point me to the instructions for where to find the three problematic capacitors on the 51'' model? I only see diagrams for the 64''.

In the meantime, I am planning to install a USB fan. Based on the thread, it seems the best place for one is the top left, if you are facing the screen, and to have the fan PULL air out from that area. Is that correct?

Any help appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
I've read through much of this thread and was hoping for some assistance. My 51'' has now turned off and immediately turned back on twice in the past two weeks. Is that a sign of either solder issues on the power board or the capacitor issue on the Y board? If so, which is more likely? Can someone point me to the instructions for where to find the three problematic capacitors on the 51'' model? I only see diagrams for the 64''.

In the meantime, I am planning to install a USB fan. Based on the thread, it seems the best place for one is the top left, if you are facing the screen, and to have the fan PULL air out from that area. Is that correct?

Any help appreciated.
No assurance of accurate advice here, as these things are really hartd to nail down accurately.

That said, my 64F8500 was displaying the symptom that you describe. It eventually failed due to the 3 caps on the Y-SUS board. Same problem or two different problems? No idea...

The conventional wisdom was to put a USB fan on the top left, because that is where the X board is, which gets quite hot. However, the Y-SUS board with the ceramic capacitors that are not properly rated for the temps inside the unit is in the top right. If I was doing it over, I would probably put a fan in both places.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
No assurance of accurate advice here, as these things are really hartd to nail down accurately.

That said, my 64F8500 was displaying the symptom that you describe. It eventually failed due to the 3 caps on the Y-SUS board. Same problem or two different problems? No idea...

The conventional wisdom was to put a USB fan on the top left, because that is where the X board is, which gets quite hot. However, the Y-SUS board with the ceramic capacitors that are not properly rated for the temps inside the unit is in the top right. If I was doing it over, I would probably put a fan in both places.
I know you don't think so, but this is really helpful. I'll try to find a second matching fan for the right side, and will track down someone with a mind to replacing the capacitors eventually (I don't have the equipment to DIY.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
My issue is progressing. Still showing classic signs of capacitor problems. But my model is 51'' and I have no idea what capacitors to replace as the internals are slightly different on the 51'' and 60'' models. Any insight from owners of non-64'' appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
My issue is progressing. Still showing classic signs of capacitor problems. But my model is 51'' and I have no idea what capacitors to replace as the internals are slightly different on the 51'' and 60'' models. Any insight from owners of non-64'' appreciated.
I was a 64" owner, and replaced just the 3 capacitors, but I remembered the links below. The kits are for the 64" "and possibly other models". He recommends replacing all the caps, not just the notorious 3. Oddly, he has two different kits, one with 7 capacitors and one with 17.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
My issue is progressing. Still showing classic signs of capacitor problems. But my model is 51'' and I have no idea what capacitors to replace as the internals are slightly different on the 51'' and 60'' models. Any insight from owners of non-64'' appreciated.
The symptoms on a 64" model are not turning on, or shutting down. Lines seem like a different issue.

I'd bet on it being more of an issue with the connection to the panel.
You might be able to double check the ribbon connectors, or might need to replace the "buffer boards" on it though I don't know how often those go bad.
The other possibility is the main board is having issues and it's sending out a slightly bad signal. That could be anything from the ribbon cable between main board and Y board to the main board itself.

The problem is that it could be on the connection to the panel itself. If that's where the problem is, I don't know what could be done to resolve other than a new panel.
Whether plasma or LCD, the ribbon connectors are attached directly to the panel and the other end goes to a buffer board in the case of a plasma screen. On LCD it goes to a "T con" board. In either case, these flexible ribbon connectors are very sensitive. If the connection on the panel itself has a problem, those connections are basically sealed to the panel itself. Don't know of a great way to really fix that. Since plasma screens are much heavier you might be able to lay it flat (face up) and see if it's any better?

Those ribbon connectors are a little bit of a challenge to connect perfectly. On these plasma screens, there are several. Each has tons of individual connections. (IF you feel comfortable removing the back, and working with potentially dangerous components) You could try lifting the connector piece that holds them in place, making sure they're free of dust, and CAREFULLY reconnecting fully. If you do that, you need to make sure the set has been powered off for a while to ensure voltages have dropped down (to zero, preferably). Always be cautious of potential for electric discharge and associated dangers etc. etc. etc.
In most cases, these should drain off high voltage within about 15-20 minutes. HOWEVER, capacitors may still retain a charge. Do not take forum advice as saying you should do anything. Especially if you aren't comfortable with any of it or have zero electronics experience.

edit: I may have mixed up who's posting what issue with these.
Lines? See above. Not turning on? Possibly the y board. Don't know if the 51"/60" model uses the same caps that fail. See link above (1st one I think) and see if it matches your Y board. Or, try a different Y board?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
The symptoms on a 64" model are not turning on, or shutting down. Lines seem like a different issue.

I'd bet on it being more of an issue with the connection to the panel.
You might be able to double check the ribbon connectors, or might need to replace the "buffer boards" on it though I don't know how often those go bad.
The other possibility is the main board is having issues and it's sending out a slightly bad signal. That could be anything from the ribbon cable between main board and Y board to the main board itself.

The problem is that it could be on the connection to the panel itself. If that's where the problem is, I don't know what could be done to resolve other than a new panel.
Whether plasma or LCD, the ribbon connectors are attached directly to the panel and the other end goes to a buffer board in the case of a plasma screen. On LCD it goes to a "T con" board. In either case, these flexible ribbon connectors are very sensitive. If the connection on the panel itself has a problem, those connections are basically sealed to the panel itself. Don't know of a great way to really fix that. Since plasma screens are much heavier you might be able to lay it flat (face up) and see if it's any better?

Those ribbon connectors are a little bit of a challenge to connect perfectly. On these plasma screens, there are several. Each has tons of individual connections. (IF you feel comfortable removing the back, and working with potentially dangerous components) You could try lifting the connector piece that holds them in place, making sure they're free of dust, and CAREFULLY reconnecting fully. If you do that, you need to make sure the set has been powered off for a while to ensure voltages have dropped down (to zero, preferably). Always be cautious of potential for electric discharge and associated dangers etc. etc. etc.
In most cases, these should drain off high voltage within about 15-20 minutes. HOWEVER, capacitors may still retain a charge. Do not take forum advice as saying you should do anything. Especially if you aren't comfortable with any of it or have zero electronics experience.
I think this is a response to Guillaume5.

I have the shutting off and on issue. And last night had it turn off with 5 double flashes on the LED.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
I think this is a response to Guillaume5.

I have the shutting off and on issue. And last night had it turn off with 5 double flashes on the LED.
Gotcha. That one, I don't know. I'm fighting it on my 64" :(
Had already done the 3 caps. Did all 7. Then replaced power supply. Thinking it needs a main board.
On the smaller sets, I think they also use some of the same caps that could fail. I think that 1st link in the post above had a set of them but you'd have to check that your Y board is the same. For a few bucks it couldn't hurt to try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Can anyone tell me if I have the infamous capacitor issue? My symptoms on my 64F8500 are a little bit different. My unit goes to black screen after 5-10 minutes of viewing content, no sound, and can't power cycle it with the remote. It's essentially frozen but perhaps not off since the red led never appears. After about two minutes, it clicks and power cycles back on (red led blinks, etc). It also only seems to happen when viewing content, but not sitting on something like an Xbox menu that has little to no motion. I've tried factory resetting and unplugging for 10 minutes, but the issue persists. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Can anyone tell me if I have the infamous capacitor issue? My symptoms on my 64F8500 are a little bit different. My unit goes to black screen after 5-10 minutes of viewing content, no sound, and can't power cycle it with the remote. It's essentially frozen but perhaps not off since the red led never appears. After about two minutes, it clicks and power cycles back on (red led blinks, etc). It also only seems to happen when viewing content, but not sitting on something like an Xbox menu that has little to no motion. I've tried factory resetting and unplugging for 10 minutes, but the issue persists. Any ideas?
Do you have the original capacitors on the Y board?
Is yes, chances are good that they need to be replaced.

I don't know if the exact things you're seeing is how the issue starts. It usually ends up that it won't power on the screen.

In your case it could be that, or something else. In any case, if the Y board still had the original capacitors, it's not unlikely that they're about done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I was able to find a local tech who actually had the full set of 64F8500 replacement parts, which was great. He was confident it was the power supply board and swapped it, and so far, no more issues as of four hours into with no interruption. He also noted that my Y board looked like a newer model that didn't have the three troublesome capacitors at all on it. He compared it to the Y board in his replacement set which had the older one and sure enough, it was different with the three capacitors showing. Is anyone aware of some of the Y boards having an updated design on later sets, like mine seems to have?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
That's cool. I don't know.
I suppose they could've put something else in. They do leave a convenient spot for an electrolytic capacitor above where the 3 ceramics are. Seems like the board designers knew something.

My eBay y board had one difference. Blue caps in a few places vs brown (electrolytic). The other ceramic ones were the same blue as others.

Of some interest to me was the buffer boards it came with. A2 vs A1 on them. Same model otherwise.

Missing what may be some kind of metal film resistor in a couple spots. Also no foam pads on the top two chips. Being that the panel lights up for a test pattern I don't think there's really any difference but I'd REALLY like to know if I should put the other buffer boards back in if there is some difference on the panels and if it's problematic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
2 questions.

After changing main board does that change panel hour count?

Never looked before. Wonder if that's set on the board or if it pulls from the panel? Not a huge deal either way.

Second.

Why does messing with settings seem to cause lockups, freezes, and even a reboot sometimes? Is this a main board getting too hot? Old one did it too. This one came with latest firmware which I hoped would help but it seems the same. Adjust a few settings, eventually it freezes up.
Maybe need another fan near the main board?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
...
I'd bet on it being more of an issue with the connection to the panel.
You might be able to double check the ribbon connectors, or might need to replace the "buffer boards" on it though I don't know how often those go bad.
The other possibility is the main board is having issues and it's sending out a slightly bad signal. That could be anything from the ribbon cable between main board and Y board to the main board itself.

The problem is that it could be on the connection to the panel itself. If that's where the problem is, I don't know what could be done to resolve other than a new panel.
Whether plasma or LCD, the ribbon connectors are attached directly to the panel and the other end goes to a buffer board in the case of a plasma screen. On LCD it goes to a "T con" board. In either case, these flexible ribbon connectors are very sensitive. If the connection on the panel itself has a problem, those connections are basically sealed to the panel itself. Don't know of a great way to really fix that. Since plasma screens are much heavier you might be able to lay it flat (face up) and see if it's any better?

Those ribbon connectors are a little bit of a challenge to connect perfectly. On these plasma screens, there are several. Each has tons of individual connections. (IF you feel comfortable removing the back, and working with potentially dangerous components) You could try lifting the connector piece that holds them in place, making sure they're free of dust, and CAREFULLY reconnecting fully. If you do that, you need to make sure the set has been powered off for a while to ensure voltages have dropped down (to zero, preferably). Always be cautious of potential for electric discharge and associated dangers etc. etc. etc.
In most cases, these should drain off high voltage within about 15-20 minutes. HOWEVER, capacitors may still retain a charge. Do not take forum advice as saying you should do anything. Especially if you aren't comfortable with any of it or have zero electronics experience.

edit: I may have mixed up who's posting what issue with these.
Lines? See above. Not turning on? Possibly the y board. Don't know if the 51"/60" model uses the same caps that fail. See link above (1st one I think) and see if it matches your Y board. Or, try a different Y board?

Yeah I talked to two tech and they think it's probably the panel. Because it's mainly individual lines (hard to see in the picture). It's actually similar to what's
ifeelsooblue has posted above my post (#14,641).
It appear that a band-like line could be a board but individual lines like that are most probably the panel. Sound like a bye bye 3D...:(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I have a PN64F8500 since July 2013. Purchased calibrated from Value Electronics in Scarsdale, NY. Also, the TV is not mounted on the wall and has good ventilation as we all know this bad boy gives off a good amount of heat.

The first few years after my 2 year warranty ended I lost 2 HDMI ports (1 & 2) as they started having connectivity issues. I ended up switching to HDMI 3(ARC) as the primary input from my Denon X4000 Receiver. HDMI 4 also works. Never used the ARC functionality as I use an Amazon Fire TV. That resolved my first issue. Then about a year later (approx 2017) I started having issues powering on. Typically if I had been watching for a hour or so, turned the tv off, then decide to watch again a half hour later the TV would not power on. Flashing red LED with no picture. Power cycling wouldn't work but waiting 15-20 mins to turn back on would work. Pre-Covid coming home from work to watch tv was never an issue. I could also duplicate get this behavior with long term watching of TV. IF I had no been watching for a few hours before I would never get the issue.

With everyone being home now it happens way more. Recently I had a new symptom where there the menu would freeze while I was going through it. Happened twice so far. Red LED would register the button presses but would not translate on screen. Picture and Audio would still be playing in the background but the menu was frozen. I ended up having to unplug to get it back up. I had been looking online for options. I tried to locate bad capacitors on the boards or anything out of the ordinary. Saw nothing but a light covering of dust which I removed with compressed air.

Looked into mailing my board's to Nick's TVs in Arizona but came across two threads that talked about damaged board upon return. Passed on that idea. I found a local place, Stanton TV, in Elmsford, NY, that fixes plasmas. I let them know about the HDMIs, the no picture picture issue, and the non responsive menu. Free pickup and diagnostic. Pickup is scheduled for 10/13. They would take it sooner if I dropped off myself but not confident on it fitting into my car.

I'll let you know how it goes.

3042843


3042844


3042845
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
I just acquired a PN60F8500 for repair. (I own the same set) The TV had no power, no red light at all. I had a spare power supply board and main(logic) board on hand so the first thing I changed out was the power supply board. This did not fix the problem so then I swapped out the main(logic) board. The little green led on the main board began to flash after powering on and I had a picture. The TV was fixed! My wife recommended that we put the original power supply board back in in order to make sure that it wasn't just the main board that was bad, which made sense to me so we did. This blew out the main board and now the TV was back to it's original non-working state. I hurriedly reinstalled the good power supply board but the TV was still dead. Apparently, the bad power supply board took out the main(logic) board, and this is likely what had happened to the set in the first place. Now I was out a spare main board for my TV. I was completely bummed out - I should have left well enough alone. After much searching I was able to find a replacement main(logic) board online (parts are becoming rarer by the day...), and after installing it the set powers up normally. I had intended to sell the set after repairing it (and still may) but am tempted to keep it as a spare. I absolutely love the picture on this plasma, and have mine fully calibrated. The moral of the story is that sometimes a damaged board can take out boards that are downstream of it. This is exactly what happened to my set back in 2016, a capacitor on the Y main board exploded and took out both of the Y-buffer boards along with it. I should have learned my lesson then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,438 Posts
I am having a strange issue with my 64". I noticed the picture was unusually dark so I went into the Picture menu and reselected the "Standard" profile. The picture gets noticeably brighter right away and then gradually gets dark again over 20 seconds or so. I have confirmed that I have all the "dynamic" picture enhancements/settings disabled so it seems the set is failing in some way?
 
14641 - 14660 of 14670 Posts
Top