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I have a Panasonic ub9000. Even don't know, maybe my particular unit has a problem. I will buy a Sony later today just for a test...... Will see..
 

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I don't think that's true what they say. I did a comparison test LSP9T vs optoma p2 (which has 0.47" chip) using Spears and Munsil's HD 4K disk and all other possible soft on my laptop. The "native" resolution of LSP9T is way better than Optoma's.
Have you compared the two Samsungs? However, you could ask Samsung USA (Samsung Italy does not know...)
 

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But it looks like I found a big issue with Rec2020 video processing. I did the tests Spears and Munsil's HD 4K call HSV Sweep BT.2020 and HSV Sweep P3D65/BT.2020plus Quantization Rotate. Look at the pictures!! ! Top right photo looks fine, but the color space is BT.709.
View attachment 3077292 View attachment 3077293 View attachment 3077294 View attachment 3077295 Above are HSV Sweep BT.2020. Below HSV Sweep P3D65/BT.2020.

Look at the dark blue line. It has to be a smooth color transition. You can spot the same dark line in a Cr
I don’t know enough about the test, but is it possible it’s because you have the projector set to RGB?
 

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Have you compared the two Samsungs? However, you could ask Samsung USA (Samsung Italy does not know...)
Customer service usually knows nothing about the goods they sell. They can only tell you the information you can read from their web-site And a manual.
 

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quick question to any LSP7T or LSP9T owner. German seller heimkino.de list Free Sync VRR support for both of the projectors, however none of the official Samsung spec documents contains more details about supported features. I think they are mistaken, can someone confirm?
 

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Discussion Starter #669
quick question to any LSP7T or LSP9T owner. German seller heimkino.de list Free Sync VRR support for both of the projectors, however none of the official Samsung spec documents contains more details about supported features. I think they are mistaken, can someone confirm?
There is no VRR.
They do support ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode)


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Does anyone have any tips and tricks to fit the LSP9T to the screen without using the built in screen adjustment? I can't for the life of me get it exactly square by using the three feets.
 

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Have you compared the two Samsungs? However, you could ask Samsung USA (Samsung Italy does not know...)
I compared all of them, P1, P2, LSP7T and LSP9T and the 9T is far sharper, far far better than any of the others.
 
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Does anyone have any tips and tricks to fit the LSP9T to the screen without using the built in screen adjustment? I can't for the life of me get it exactly square by using the three feets.
Make sure your screen is flat. Get yourself a long straight edge and check for any deformity in the screen caused by the wall not being flat, which is very likely. This is a primary cause of distortion with a UST projector especially one with as short a throw as the 9T.

After that you should work on making sure your projector is perpendicular to the screen, as in level.

I have no issues with getting my straight without using the adjustments, if maybe a very slight adjustment.
 

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Make sure your screen is flat. Get yourself a long straight edge and check for any deformity in the screen caused by the wall not being flat, which is very likely. This is a primary cause of distortion with a UST projector especially one with as short a throw as the 9T.

After that you should work on making sure your projector is perpendicular to the screen, as in level.

I have no issues with getting my straight without using the adjustments, if maybe a very slight adjustment.
I tried getting the projector perpendicular to the wall by using a laser measurer, however, since the projector doesn't have any straight edges or sides its's useless.
I'll try it the old fashion way, thanks for the tips.
 

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Does anyone have any tips and tricks to fit the LSP9T to the screen without using the built in screen adjustment? I can't for the life of me get it exactly square by using the three feets.
Just make sure you have the correct height from the floor and square to the screen, which is nothing new of course. But not always that easy when such extremely small movement makes it right or not. Have to be sure you do have the right height and all that or it won't fit right to the screen. I wasn't use to doing that but when getting serious to get it right it was amusing at times. I use a windows desktop and other patterns also, just to see how it was looking overall. At the end I had it right except for one corner. I decided it might need to go up more, so I slipped a really thin bar coaster under one of the feet and that did it. Just that little amount. So was able to get that foot out a tiny amount without moving anything else. I refused to use the electronic adjustments though.
 

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Just make sure you have the correct height from the floor and square to the screen, which is nothing new of course. But not always that easy when such extremely small movement makes it right or not. Have to be sure you do have the right height and all that or it won't fit right to the screen. I wasn't use to doing that but when getting serious to get it right it was amusing at times. I use a windows desktop and other patterns also, just to see how it was looking overall. At the end I had it right except for one corner. I decided it might need to go up more, so I slipped a really thin bar coaster under one of the feet and that did it. Just that little amount. So was able to get that foot out a tiny amount without moving anything else. I refused to use the electronic adjustments though.
I haven't mounted the screen to the wall yet, i didn't want to do that before i had the picture "calibrated" first on the wall itself.

Am i thinking right that if the screen is perfect on the wall (measuring each side from the ceiling/wall), the most important fitment is the height of the screen? All else can be adjusted on the projector side after the fact?
 

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Discussion Starter #677
Just make sure you have the correct height from the floor and square to the screen, which is nothing new of course. But not always that easy when such extremely small movement makes it right or not. Have to be sure you do have the right height and all that or it won't fit right to the screen. I wasn't use to doing that but when getting serious to get it right it was amusing at times. I use a windows desktop and other patterns also, just to see how it was looking overall. At the end I had it right except for one corner. I decided it might need to go up more, so I slipped a really thin bar coaster under one of the feet and that did it. Just that little amount. So was able to get that foot out a tiny amount without moving anything else. I refused to use the electronic adjustments though.
I would add that adjusting the screen itself can dial in the last corner or edge. As walls aren’t perfect, neither are screen mount points. Sometimes you can “shim” a corner of the screen with a washer (or wood depending on the screen and how you mounted it) to achieve the perfect alignment.


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Make sure your screen is flat. Get yourself a long straight edge and check for any deformity in the screen caused by the wall not being flat, which is very likely. This is a primary cause of distortion with a UST projector especially one with as short a throw as the 9T.

After that you should work on making sure your projector is perpendicular to the screen, as in level.

I have no issues with getting my straight without using the adjustments, if maybe a very slight adjustment.
If your wall isn't completely flat, do you have to move the screen to a different location or are there ways to go about it?
 

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If your wall isn't completely flat, do you have to move the screen to a different location or are there ways to go about it?
not relevant strictly to the LSP9T, my apartment has extremely uneven walls and even ceiling height is a bit off from A to B end of the Room; and trying to adjust the UST to it (UHZ65UST when i still had it) was a sheer nightmare - i was spending hours adjusting feet, trying to add packs of paper below its back feet trying to level it out to match the wall as good as possible. It was never satisfying - and if it was it was only for short time as the slightest move to the projector would mess it up completely again. What helped in my case ultimately was to adjust the screen slightly rather than the UST. Screen is a XYScreen 100" PET Crystal, i added a small spacer on in one corner to move that corner further away from the wall and had to lower the screen like 2cm on one of it sides. Having a unleveled screen on the wall was the lesser evil in my case and even with my mild OCD it didn't bother me that much.

I did intentionally not use smart fit as this gets deactivated during game mode in the case of Optoma, just some light warp correction afterwards to fix a uneven line which bothered me during movies but not during games.
 
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