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His amplifier is my custom DSP version of the SP2-8000HT. For those in North America, I generally recommend sticking to the 120V line and simply run a dedicated circuit. Depending on what else is in the system, mixing the 240V with 120V can create some headaches with hum or buzz, and it only takes 1 component to cause a big headache. The 2x4000W amp is designed and optimized for 120V operation. The 2x6,000W version is less sensitive to power line sag due to the more complex power supply, but it adds cost unnecessarily. I only have a few customers in the US with the 6,000W amplifiers for unique situations or desires, and I generally only recommend them for our international customers who need them where the power systems are 230-240V AC.
Thanks for the info Mark.
 

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what does it usually cost to pay for a 240v line? is it hard to do? need a new box?
In the USA it can be easily performed by switching an existing 120V receptacle and using two hot wires on a new 240V (2-pole) breaker. But only if this is a dedicated branch circuit (i.e. there are no other receptacles on this circuit, just your panel box and then wire and then the receptacle, as all receptacles on the circuit will be delivering 240V and destroy anything you plug in thats expecting standard 120V. Make sure you label both wires as hot, on both ends.

I would engage the services of an electrician if you have any doubts on what you are doing. If you are comfortable doing it yourself the cost would just be a new breaker and a new receptacle, assuming you have 2 adjacent breaker positions available in your main panel.
 

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Your SubMersive wasn't wired out of polarity and the amplifier has the pin 2 hot. The DSP response shaping I use in the amplifiers has a similar effect as a Linkwitz Transform to maintain a more ideal sealed subwoofer response, especially through the roll off of the speaker. This is required to achieve the very deep in-room response our customers often observe. This response shaping creates an expected phase shift which causes what you observed. Nothing is physically wired backwards.
It posts like these that remind me why I don't feel there is any real value associated with saving a few bucks on subs by going DIY. ;)
 

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In the USA it can be easily performed by switching an existing 120V receptacle and using two hot wires on a new 240V (2-pole) breaker. But only if this is a dedicated branch circuit (i.e. there are no other receptacles on this circuit, just your panel box and then wire and then the receptacle, as all receptacles on the circuit will be delivering 240V and destroy anything you plug in thats expecting standard 120V. Make sure you label both wires as hot, on both ends.

I would engage the services of an electrician if you have any doubts on what you are doing. If you are comfortable doing it yourself the cost would just be a new breaker and a new receptacle, assuming you have 2 adjacent breaker positions available in your main panel.
think I would have better luck running my sub to my dryer outlet in laundry room :) think thats only 240v outlet I know of...i watched my kill o watt meter and Im not killin my electrical system that bad under 120db...this sub has crazy headroom efficiency or Im just not doing it right lol :)
 

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think I would have better luck running my sub to my dryer outlet in laundry room :) think thats only 240v outlet I know of...i watched my kill o watt meter and Im not killin my electrical system that bad under 120db...this sub has crazy headroom efficiency or Im just not doing it right lol :)
Yeah dont plug your sub into 240V unless you are certain it is designed for it. Not many are in the USA.
 

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Running my two SubMs & three Cats off a controlled 240v 40Amp circuit has worked well for me.
When I turn on my system (processor's remote) the processor's 12v trigger controls a solidstate relay which controls a 120v contactor which in turn controls a 240v contactor. (My system is now ready)
 

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Running my two SubMs & three Cats off a controlled 240v 40Amp circuit has worked well for me.
When I turn on my system (processor's remote) the processor's 12v trigger controls a solidstate relay which controls a 120v contactor which in turn controls a 240v contactor. (My system is now ready)
No issues with noise from the 120V gear. What do you have on 120V vs 240V?
 

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mirage had some sweet sounding gear back in 90's....they still in business? omnipolar right? I compared mirage with martin logan back in day and it was close.
 

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Glad to see this official thread!
 
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mirage had some sweet sounding gear back in 90's....they still in business? omnipolar right? I compared mirage with martin logan back in day and it was close.
API [Audio Product International] manufactured Mirage, Energy, and Athena brands out of Canada. Klipsch bought API and killed Athena off while moving Mirage and Energy production to China. I believe Klipsch was acquired and the distribution of Energy and Mirage was eventually halted. Klipsch liquidated Mirage stock via Amazon's woot.com. Klipsch actually ran some extra production batches based on fan demand on woot.com.

I don't believe the OMD-28s are worth their $7500 retail price but they are worth much more than I paid! I like them because they are a unique design (Omnipolar) with high WAF. The imaging doesn't collapse when you move your head or even switch seats. Not a bad seat in the house.
 

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I agree marc...the omnipolar design i listened to back then was very appealling and sounded downright great...think it was janet jackson back then i auditioned lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
is the umik in REW display the correct SPL ?

i adjusted my AVR levels in one of the settings but it doesnt feel this hot
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Do you have the Umik-1 calibration file?
yep

did some testing today. seems theres a possible null or black hole around 25hz depending on sub position on the MLP wall side

for now the back(mlp) and left walls are covered completely with shelves... which might mess something up

anyway, im not complaining, it sounds good to me, im just trying to see if i hear any difference compared to the measurements

the Chane 2.4 seem to be measuring to ~ 22000 hz then drops off. my hearing seems limited to around 17000
 

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yep

did some testing today. seems theres a possible null or black hole around 25hz depending on sub position on the MLP wall side

for now the back(mlp) and left walls are covered completely with shelves... which might mess something up

anyway, im not complaining, it sounds good to me, im just trying to see if i hear any difference compared to the measurements

the Chane 2.4 seem to be measuring to ~ 22000 hz then drops off. my hearing seems limited to around 17000
bulls,

Can you post a FR with the Limits changed to: Left: 5.0, Right: 200.0, Top: 125.0, and Bottom: 65.0?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
ok yep. F18s moved to front pointing at MLP just like the LCR ... kinda sounds better too ... its not WAFable tho (covers the windows)

had to turn down the vol wifes home
 

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The good news is that you have decent extension down to 9 Hz. At what dB did you take the green and purple graphs?

If we ignore the 2 nulls, the front locations ( green ) provides pretty flat FR. However, the purple graph is easily correctable with a minidsp 2X4 HD.
 

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i wouldnt care about extension...i would move or aim subs around...at least thats what i did when i got new gear. my 25hp sub at 200+ pounds got tested in 5 spots before I settled

just a turn up the master volume and see if its ok graph....still more work to do but its ok....

 

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