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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid /forum/post/17634151


Yes, 10 IRE is pushing the limits of my meter (as is with most). To be honest, I haven't noticed any discoloration in the dark shadows (athough Cnet says there is a blueish tinge in the deepest blacks). I watched Scent of a Woman last night and the picture was phenominal.


Are you noticing them sitting straight on? Is the middle of the screen eyelevel from your seating position? Unfortunately, LCDs aren't plasmas, and off-axis viewing, whether it be from side to side, or up and down will cause some degrading and discoloration of the picture.


P.S. If you are still getting a yellowish tinge, try going into white balance and increasing the blue bias (low end) by a click or two, since yellow is an indication of blue being too low.

My problem is a weird hump in my graph. I will have to re run my graph and post it for you. If I up the blue bias the blue moves up the graph into 30-40 IRE. Not fun. I for sure sit straight on.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdub998 /forum/post/17634558


My problem is a weird hump in my graph. I will have to re run my graph and post it for you. If I up the blue bias the blue moves up the graph into 30-40 IRE. Not fun. I for sure sit straight on.

Hmmmm. Yes, please post the graph so I can better understand what you're experiencing.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid /forum/post/17634248


Congratulations on your purchase, and I'm glad your enjoying your new display.


Since the posted settings are calibrated to the posters viewing environment, you should only be using the calibrated settings as a starting point, and tweak to your environment/liking. Personally, as an ISF calibrator, I calibrate to industry standard.


If the faces look sunburned, just move the hue setting towards green a few notches. The settings I posted were for a darkened room, the way you'd view a movie in a theater. If you have a bright room, you can increase backlight or gamma.


As far as setting it to "vivid", it isn't accurate to what the director/industry wanted you to see, but if it looks good to you and your wife, that is all that matters since the both of you are the ones watching it.


Happy viewing.


John

Thanks John. I'm not done messing around with the settings yet (I like to tinker with things too much) but I'll let you guys know what else I change on my config.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by fidoprincess /forum/post/17634515


I ordered the N460 bluray and read that I need a wireless bridge. I found this info: "It is missing an integrated WI-FI and a USB drive to buffer the content" & "Sony recommends the Linksys WET610N Wi-Fi bridge" but reviews say it is very hard to work and others say get this instead: TRENDNET Wireless N Gaming Adapter TRENDnet Wireless N Gaming Adapter-Black (TEW-647GA) (V1.0R) (Version 1.0R).

You don't need a wireless bridge; you do if you want wireless. I found that it was worth it to route an ethernet cable directly to the box in order to maximize bandwidth. Another option would be a powerline adapter, which is pretty neat technology that transmit internet content through your power lines as if they were ethernet cables. Really. I don't have any firsthand experience with these, but again that's probably going to have more bandwidth than wireless. More bandwidth means less stutter when you stream.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fidoprincess /forum/post/17634515


So I buying this and now am wondering if I need to upgrade my router to "n" as well so I can do the streaming netflix. I have dsl and an old router right now. What is a USB Drive listed above? Just one of those stick things that will plug into the blue ray? How many gigs do I need?

I can't tell you about the router. The USB drive is only there to act as a buffer if you're going to use "BD Live" content. Right now, I think this is mostly a joke, and I wouldn't worry too much about it. I don't know what the minimum recommended size is, but if it's a buffer, the bigger the better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fidoprincess /forum/post/17634515


I know I need an hdmi cable to hook the tv and blu ray together but what else do I need? I have cable going straight into the tv now, no box or anything but still get about 4 high def channels on the current 37" lcd.

If your cable is going straight to your TV via coaxial cable, and you don't have any way/reason to change that, that's fine; the TV will accept the coaxial cable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fidoprincess /forum/post/17634515


I want to surprise my hubby and have everything ready for Christmas morn. We have a Wii hooked up too but that seems like it will be easy enough to do. Sorry I am such a novice but thanks in advance if you can help me understand what else I need to buy:


The bridge listed above-trendnet

An HDMI cable (3.1?)-just one?

USB Drive? plugs into what and how big should it be?

Newer Router-N or range max N?


How does this all hook up? Do I hook the Wii to the bluray or hook both up to the tv itself and the bridge too?

I can't advise you about the bridge or router, but you may want to consider a direct ethernet connection or powerline adapters.


The Wii will hook up directly to the TV. There are three ways to hook up a Wii -- with RCA (red/yellow/white) cables, with RCA + S-video (looks like an old-fashioned keyboard jack) and with component (red/green/blue/red/white) cables. If you want the Wii to output at maximum resolution, you need component cables.


The Blu-Ray will also hook up directly to the TV, preferably over HDMI.


The bridge would connect directly to the Blu-Ray player via ethernet cable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fidoprincess /forum/post/17634515


The tv is stuck in transit at the warehouse and I am waiting for a delivery time but they said with Amazon's "White glove" they will bring it into my garage and unpack it, plug it in to check that it works and the screen is not cracked and put it back in the box for me to hide until Christmas. Will I be able to see that it is okay without hooking it up to cable right then?

Screwing in a coaxial cable is not a big deal. Ditto plugging in the Wii or unpacking/repacking the Blu-Ray player. Your white glove folks shouldn't object.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fidoprincess /forum/post/17634515


I am so nervous doing this as a surprise and don't want to mess it up but really know very little about this stuff. If I get all of this equipment listed above, will the netflix streaming movies be in Hidef? Do they stream to the computer first or directly to the bluray? I can stream movies to my computers now but the kids are getting new laptops so it will be faster if I get a new N router, right? Does Wii already play in Hidef? I can really notice when DH is watching football now on those hidef channels. He gets a great picture and loves it so imagine when he gets the new 55"!

The Netflix goes directly to the N460, no computers involved (although the movies available on your N460 may only be those that you have put into your instant queue, which you manage on your computer). I can't speak to the quality of Netflix in particular but the N460 does process streaming HD content pretty well. (If you go to, say, the Video Detective channel, you'll see a trailer for a movie called TRON LEGACY. It's a lot of CGI so it's predisposed to look good on an HD video monitor, but it looks pretty good.)


The Wii needs those component cables to output in hi def, but even then it's a pretty lo-def hi-def.


Enjoy! If you got that cheap 55" V5100 and N460 bundle from Amazon then you got a pretty good deal.
 

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I have a "sling box" powerline adapter hooked up in my living room for my blu ray player for firmware updates, and it works well. You plug one unit into an outlet near the router, and hookup the adapter to the router with a short ethernet cable, and do the same by your tv / blu ray player. Like Sean said, it uses your electrical line as routing wires.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdub998 /forum/post/17634558


My problem is a weird hump in my graph. I will have to re run my graph and post it for you. If I up the blue bias the blue moves up the graph into 30-40 IRE. Not fun. I for sure sit straight on.

Are you aware that when calibrating grayscale, when you reduce r-gain (or bias), it will impact b-gain (or bias) and vice-versa? and if you increase g-gain (or g-bias) it will reduce both red and blue? They interact.


If you're using a meter and software, don't just go by the % indicator for each color under each IRE, look at the numbers. Red (x) should be as close to .313 and blue (y) as close to .329 as possible. At that point, you'd also want green to be close to 100%. For example, if red reads .310 and blue reads .324, and green is at 104%, drop green a tick or two and see if that fixes both red and blue.


Also, keep in mid that the high end (gains) and low ends (bias) also interact, so there is some going back and forth until you get it right. Since the high ends interact to a greater degree with the low end readings, than vice-versa, start at the high end and then do the low end.


Like I said, ideally, you'd want red to be .313 and blue .329, with red, green and blue being as close to 100% for all IRE's. If you're going to error, let it be at 0-20 IRE and 90-100 IRE, with 30 IRE to 80 IRE as close as possible.


Fortunately you're in the User menu and not in the service menu, so you if you go too far astray, you can alwys hit "reset" and start over.
 

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WOW! Thanks so much Sean for your fast and helpful reply. Yes, I "think" I got a great deal. The tv was $1311 and the bluray was $167. IS that a good deal? For me, there was no tax or shipping so that helped too.


For delivery, I was just going to have them bring it into the garage so there is no cable or anything there. I was going to ask them to get it out and plug it into the power outlet and just turn it on to make sure it works. Then they will just put it back into the box so I can stash it there until Christmas eve. There won't be an actual picture, I am assuming it will just be a blue screen to check?


Thanks to you, I understand quite a bit more now about how the all hook up. I have to go and check to see how I could get another ethernet cable to the blu ray. Right now I have the dsl line (looks like a phone cord)going directly into the dsl "box" thing and then that box is hooked up to the wireless router but it is all in the family room, not near the living room so I don't know how I can get the ethernet cable to go right into the bluray in the living room. Maybe I can just move the whole router and dsl box to another phone outlet in the living room? If I do that, I get a new N rangemax router, I guess, since it will be even more far away from the other computers in the house that barely get a signal now. (My son built me a parabolic antenna out of Reynolds wrap so I can get a signal in my bedroom-lol! Works too.) I have a ton of unused ethernet cables around the house not in use and I just checked and the Wii is hooked up with the component cables you described so that should be easy.


I will go research more about the powerline adaptor. Seems like that would be the best but I bet it is expensive. The bridge is only $50ish but I don't want "stutter"-even I know what that is-lol. Thanks again for any more thoughts or help!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid /forum/post/17634248


Congratulations on your purchase, and I'm glad your enjoying your new display.


Since the posted settings are calibrated to the posters viewing environment, you should only be using the calibrated settings as a starting point, and tweak to your environment/liking. Personally, as an ISF calibrator, I calibrate to industry standard.


If the faces look sunburned, just move the hue setting towards green a few notches. The settings I posted were for a darkened room, the way you'd view a movie in a theater. If you have a bright room, you can increase backlight or gamma.


As far as setting it to "vivid", it isn't accurate to what the director/industry wanted you to see, but if it looks good to you and your wife, that is all that matters since the both of you are the ones watching it.


Happy viewing.


John


I AGREE WITH YOU. I hope that with more calibration test can be improved IRA 10 values
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBEN PORTILLO /forum/post/17634976


I AGREE WITH YOU. I hope that with more calibration test can be improved IRA 10 values

I doubt it. For the most part, the RGB levels are linear (due to the limitations of two-point grayscale adjustment in this display), meaning with the low end, the settings (red, green and blue bias) for 30, 40 and 50 IRE are the same as for 0, 10 and 20 IRE. And 60 IRE to 100 IRE share the same settings (red, green and blue gains). You compensate to get the most linear readings you can across 0 IRE to 100 IRE.


So assuming I upgraded from a $7,000 meter (which loses some accuracy between 0 and 20 IRE) to a $20,000 meter (which I'm not), and I made adjustments to 10 IRE, it may throw off 30, 40 and 50 IRE. And if you are going to have errors, under 20 IRE is where you want to have them.


It could also very well be just be the limitations of the display, which is normal for even higher end displays, and something we just have to accept.


For what it's worth, if you go to Value Electronics website (not permitted to link), where they had a "shoot-out" of the top displays, (they've posted the calibration reports), you'll see that I achieved better a better calibration with the KDL-46V5100 than they did with Sony's flagship model, the XBR9.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid /forum/post/17635067


I doubt it. For the most part, the RGB levels are linear (due to the limitations of two-point grayscale adjustment in this display), meaning with the low end, the settings (red, green and blue bias) for 30, 40 and 50 IRE are the same as for 0, 10 and 20 IRE. And 60 IRE to 100 IRE share the same settings (red, green and blue gains). You compensate to get the most linear readings you can across 0 IRE to 100 IRE.


So assuming I upgraded from a $7,000 meter (which loses some accuracy between 0 and 20 IRE) to a $20,000 meter (which I'm not), and I made adjustments to 10 IRE, it may throw off 30, 40 and 50 IRE. And if you are going to have errors, under 20 IRE is where you want to have them.


It could also very well be just be the limitations of the display, which is normal for even higher end displays, and something we just have to accept.


For what it's worth, if you go to Value Electronics website (not permitted to link), where they had a "shoot-out" of the top displays, (they've posted the calibration reports), you'll see that I achieved better a better calibration with the KDL-46V5100 than they did with Sony's flagship model, the XBR9.


is very interesting that you propose results in measuring the gray scale in this TV
 

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Just got the 52" v5100 and was able to swap the BD for the PS3 and just last night Got the Sony Home theater 589W.


I hooked up the Home theater as described but when the tv is on I do not get any sound thru the surrond sound speakers??????


If I have the home theater receiver on FM radio I get sound from all 5 speakers.


I am pretty sure I have all cable connection correct, wasn't that hard compare to an older surrond sound system I previously had.


The tv input sound is set to home theater but in order to hear sound I have to set it to tv speaker.


Thanks in advance.


RON
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRUMPE /forum/post/17636953


Just got the 52" v5100 and was able to swap the BD for the PS3 and just last night Got the Sony Home theater 589W.


I hooked up the Home theater as described but when the tv is on I do not get any sound thru the surrond sound speakers??????


If I have the home theater receiver on FM radio I get sound from all 5 speakers.


I am pretty sure I have all cable connection correct, wasn't that hard compare to an older surrond sound system I previously had.


The tv input sound is set to home theater but in order to hear sound I have to set it to tv speaker.


Thanks in advance.


RON

Also where is the best place to pick up a couple more speaker stands for the rear speakers.


RON
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid /forum/post/17634891


Are you aware that when calibrating grayscale, when you reduce r-gain (or bias), it will impact b-gain (or bias)? and if you increase g-gain (or g-bias) it will reduce both red and blue? They interact.


If you're using a meter and software, don't just go by the % indicator for each color under each IRE, look at the numbers. Red (x) should be as close to .313 and blue (y) as close to .329 as possible. At that point, you'd also want green to be close to 100%. For example, if red reads .310 and blue reads .324, and green is at 104%, drop green a tick or two and see if that fixes both red and blue.


Also, keep in mid that the high end (gains) and low ends (bias) also interact, so there is some going back and forth until you get it right. Since the high ends interact to a greater degree with the low end readings, than vice-versa, start at the high end and then do the low end.


Like I said, ideally, you'd want red to be .313 and blue .329, with red, green and blue being as close to 100% for all IRE's. If you're going to error, let it be at 0-20 IRE and 90-100 IRE, with 30 IRE to 80 IRE as close as possible.


Fortunately you're in the User menu and not in the service menu, so you if you go too far astray, you can alwys hit "reset" and start over.

Thanks that makes a lot of sense. I am using a meter and the ColorHCFR software. I haven't been messing with it much anymore because i am waiting until I get a new meter. I will see what I can get with my meter sometime soon though.
 

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Some pics....I'm a terrible photographer.....for some reason contrast in hair goes up and loses detail when I photograph.










 

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[Originally Posted by dsskid ]Some pics....I'm a terrible photographer.....for some reason contrast in hair goes up and loses detail when I photograph.


have you tested calibration cine mode?
 

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So I'm about to go to sonystyle tomorrow and get the 46v5100 w/ ps3 bundle for 1k. They say they're sold out but they can order it and I'll get the same deal. I'm getting the tv mostly for gaming and blue rays as I'm in my school's apartment and they don't offer HDtv
This is my first flat screen and I'm wondering what are the things I need to do to maximize the quality? I've read a bit about calibration, are the initial settings they give you never good enough? For the ps3, are there separate cables I need to buy to get better quality? Also I'll probably do a bit of hooking up the tv to my macbook pro, is there a wireless way to do that? Also someone mentioned they updated the firmware recently, how do I know if my tv will have that? thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belkin /forum/post/17638641


So I'm about to go to sonystyle tomorrow and get the 46v5100 w/ ps3 bundle for 1k. They say they're sold out but they can order it and I'll get the same deal. I'm getting the tv mostly for gaming and blue rays as I'm in my school's apartment and they don't offer HDtv
This is my first flat screen and I'm wondering what are the things I need to do to maximize the quality? I've read a bit about calibration, are the initial settings they give you never good enough? For the ps3, are there separate cables I need to buy to get better quality? Also I'll probably do a bit of hooking up the tv to my macbook pro, is there a wireless way to do that? Also someone mentioned they updated the firmware recently, how do I know if my tv will have that? thanks


Settings right out of the box are utilized to attract a buyer's attention on the briughtly lit showroom floor. Hopefully your viewing environment is very different, so to maximize your viewing experience, you'll have to calibrate the new TV to your environment (lighting, wall color, etc). Keep in mind that TVs don't always come out of the factory set identically, so why you can utilize the calibrated settings (for movie viewing) that I posted a few pages back as a starting point, you may find you'll need to tweak them to your room. I'm not a gamer, but many utilize very different settings for games, but that's ok, because you can calibrate your a seperate mode for gaming from the mode you use for watching blu rays (Vivid, standard, cinema, etc).


I'm not sure if the PS3 comes with cables or not, but you may have to purchase some component cables (or HDMI) for the best hookup.


If Sony is out of stock, there is a good chance that the TV your getting will have been manufactured after August, and will have the firmware installed. Ask them.


And finally, the Sony doesn't have wireless built in, so you'd have to do some research at your local computer store to see if there is an adapter that you can use to make it wireless.
 

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Hey all...it's been awhile since I logged in and had a say...wow, what alot of threads here..I guess Mike hasn't been on in awhile. I have been very lucky in the fact that the flashing red issue hasn't surfaced from what I can see in my 52V5100..and my HTPC looks fine without any video problems (going through HDMI). From all the searching I have done on alot of the calibration help sites as well as calibration DVD's and such, here is what I have found to be a good picture in my habitat!


Custom

Back Light.......3

Picture............82

Brightness.......52

Color..............40

Hue................R6

Color Temp......Warm

Sharpness.......2

Noise Reduct....OFF

ACE.................OFF

Gamma............OFF

Clear White......OFF

Live Color.........OFF

Cine Motion......Auto 1

Game Mode......OFF

Motion Flow......OFF

White Balance....Default
 

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Does anyone have the V5100? If so, does having the HDMI inputs on the side look bad? I want good picture quality but don't want people to see the wires sticking out the side of my t.v. Anyone have an opinion or are dealing with this issue? I bought the Sharp lc-46sb57U but was thinking about returning it to buy the Sony V5100.
 
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