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Could not figure out how to just send video.
That sounds weird. Like the fan is rubbing on something and making a sound a bit like a motorbike.
Needs to get to a service centre if under warranty.
It is not something you want to take apart yourself unless you have to.
 

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I had my Sony 695ES installed along with an upgraded 145 inch diagonal Stewart 130 G4 scope screen 3 months ago. Since I had my 695ES on order with my installer during this past summer I was anxious that maybe I should cancel the 695 and pay 2K more to get the newer 715 model or switch to a JVC after reading so much about them. With COVID and delays with changes to my screen, I decided to stay with the 695ES and have been generally happy with it. As I previously had an Epson 6010, the improvements in my projector and screen combo were great! Sharpness, contrast and upgraded 4K and zoomed 2:40 for movies have been a game changer. For 4K movies I was generally pleased with the image and initially loved it. Then after watching direct TV 4K images for the World Series and other sports I became disappointed with the image. In close up zoomed images of the players, the picture was brighter but with wide angle shots, the picture was dim and contrast was not there. I decided to switch to the standard HD version on Fox and the picture was much brighter. The sharpness and clearness of the 4K picture was not there but the brightness made it better to watch.

So like many others with a big screen -watching 4k images can sometimes be a mixed bag. Maybe I went too large of a screen for my projector I thought?! Streaming 4K on Apple TV with Netflix, Amazon, Disney, etc looked overall ok but in darker, dimmer movies it lacked punch and contrast. Even outdoor scenes looked dimmer to me with some content. Reading through the forums, I found that I was not alone and not having Digital tone mapping with Sony is an issue. It appears that the Sony 715 may be improved and has a better picture. The specs of the projector however for lamp lumens and the base product look pretty much identical as Archibald has pointed out.

So, in looking for a better picture, I did some research and decided to go with a Lumagen radiance pro. I paid 2K less for the 695ES, so adding the difference there plus the discounted price off the msrp for the Lumagen Radiance pro seemed worthwhile. Wow, it was so worth it! The Lumagen now makes my images pop! Watching 4K sports gives me the contrast and pop that I was missing. Everything I watch is better! Deeper, inky blacks and a contrast and picture pop that I hadn’t seen before! Lumagen has not only made my 4K better, the Lumagen recently made some updates and their scaling has made standard HD images look great. So, I believe now my 695ES looks better than the 715 and rivals the JVC’s. I have not viewed the newer Sony or the new JVC’s but with the Lumagen I now have the DTM that I was missing! I now also get auto scaling to automatically size my image to 16 x9 to 2:40 and everything in between. Lumagen regularly updates their product with new improvements on a regular basis. This is something you don’t get very often with projectors alone. So, fellow 695 owners- instead of lamenting not getting the latest projector - a video processing solution such as Lumagen, MadVR, etc. could be the answer you are looking for! It certainly has been for me!

As for adding additional brightness- my next potential upgrade - Panamorph DCR lens for a reportedly 38% improved brightness! Uhhhh sorry- gottta pause here! My upgrade budget is spent! My Sony 695ES looks great now! It actually looked fairly good right out of the box. But, it now went from good to great!
 

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I had my Sony 695ES installed along with an upgraded 145 inch diagonal Stewart 130 G4 scope screen 3 months ago. Since I had my 695ES on order with my installer during this past summer I was anxious that maybe I should cancel the 695 and pay 2K more to get the newer 715 model or switch to a JVC after reading so much about them. With COVID and delays with changes to my screen, I decided to stay with the 695ES and have been generally happy with it. As I previously had an Epson 6010, the improvements in my projector and screen combo were great! Sharpness, contrast and upgraded 4K and zoomed 2:40 for movies have been a game changer. For 4K movies I was generally pleased with the image and initially loved it. Then after watching direct TV 4K images for the World Series and other sports I became disappointed with the image. In close up zoomed images of the players, the picture was brighter but with wide angle shots, the picture was dim and contrast was not there. I decided to switch to the standard HD version on Fox and the picture was much brighter. The sharpness and clearness of the 4K picture was not there but the brightness made it better to watch.

So like many others with a big screen -watching 4k images can sometimes be a mixed bag. Maybe I went too large of a screen for my projector I thought?! Streaming 4K on Apple TV with Netflix, Amazon, Disney, etc looked overall ok but in darker, dimmer movies it lacked punch and contrast. Even outdoor scenes looked dimmer to me with some content. Reading through the forums, I found that I was not alone and not having Digital tone mapping with Sony is an issue. It appears that the Sony 715 may be improved and has a better picture. The specs of the projector however for lamp lumens and the base product look pretty much identical as Archibald has pointed out.

So, in looking for a better picture, I did some research and decided to go with a Lumagen radiance pro. I paid 2K less for the 695ES, so adding the difference there plus the discounted price off the msrp for the Lumagen Radiance pro seemed worthwhile. Wow, it was so worth it! The Lumagen now makes my images pop! Watching 4K sports gives me the contrast and pop that I was missing. Everything I watch is better! Deeper, inky blacks and a contrast and picture pop that I hadn’t seen before! Lumagen has not only made my 4K better, the Lumagen recently made some updates and their scaling has made standard HD images look great. So, I believe now my 695ES looks better than the 715 and rivals the JVC’s. I have not viewed the newer Sony or the new JVC’s but with the Lumagen I now have the DTM that I was missing! I now also get auto scaling to automatically size my image to 16 x9 to 2:40 and everything in between. Lumagen regularly updates their product with new improvements on a regular basis. This is something you don’t get very often with projectors alone. So, fellow 695 owners- instead of lamenting not getting the latest projector - a video processing solution such as Lumagen, MadVR, etc. could be the answer you are looking for! It certainly has been for me!

As for adding additional brightness- my next potential upgrade - Panamorph DCR lens for a reportedly 38% improved brightness! Uhhhh sorry- gottta pause here! My upgrade budget is spent! My Sony 695ES looks great now! It actually looked fairly good right out of the box. But, it now went from good to great!
Which Lumagen Radiance Pro did you go with? Seen a few model numbers so was just curious.
 

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I went with the 4 input, 2 output Lumagen Radiance Pro 4242. It is the least expensive Lumagen. I will be getting a lot of use from it since I plan on using it with the 695ES I have now and possible future projector upgrades. This Sony now looks so good I won’t need a projector upgrade!
 

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Anyone using a Panasonic UB9000 with the 695? When using the Netflix app on the 9000 the colors are extremely washed out. Anyone have settings for either the 9000 or 695 that they have adjusted to provide better color?
 

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Anyone using a Panasonic UB9000 with the 695? When using the Netflix app on the 9000 the colors are extremely washed out. Anyone have settings for either the 9000 or 695 that they have adjusted to provide better color?
Do you have HDR set to auto on your PJ?
Is the Panasonic set to the correct settings?
Does the built in app even do HDR?
Colours will be washed out if an HDR signal is not received as such.
 

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Do you have HDR set to auto on your PJ?
Is the Panasonic set to the correct settings?
Does the built in app even do HDR?
Colours will be washed out if an HDR signal is not received as such.
I have an Oppo (non-4k) in the rack along with the 9000. The Netflix app on the Oppo has great color through the 695...when switching inputs to the 9000 the color is totally faded...so I don't know if the projector settings are the issue or the 9000 settings are the issue. The owners manual for the 9000 is very limited in terms of its settings for projectors. I haven't yet determined if the 695 is considered as standard luminence or high luminence as I can't find a source from Panasonic that provides that info. Frustrating, it is. Unable to determine exactly what the "correct settings" would be for either the 9000 or the projector when using them in combination.
 

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I have an Oppo (non-4k) in the rack along with the 9000. The Netflix app on the Oppo has great color through the 695...when switching inputs to the 9000 the color is totally faded...so I don't know if the projector settings are the issue or the 9000 settings are the issue. The owners manual for the 9000 is very limited in terms of its settings for projectors. I haven't yet determined if the 695 is considered as standard luminence or high luminence as I can't find a source that provides that info. Frustrating, it is.
Sounds like the Oppo is out putting BT709 and teh Panny is outputting BT2020 butit is being shown as BT709 which would be washed out.
Set the panny to auto f or res and colour depth etc as much as possible and make sure that the PJ is set to HDR 'Auto' too.
Also check to make sure you haven't manually set BT709 or a different colour space inadvertently on the PJ too.
The 695 would be considered 'basic luminance projector' i.e. 350 nits.
 

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I have an Oppo (non-4k) in the rack along with the 9000. The Netflix app on the Oppo has great color through the 695...when switching inputs to the 9000 the color is totally faded...so I don't know if the projector settings are the issue or the 9000 settings are the issue. The owners manual for the 9000 is very limited in terms of its settings for projectors. I haven't yet determined if the 695 is considered as standard luminence or high luminence as I can't find a source from Panasonic that provides that info. Frustrating, it is. Unable to determine exactly what the "correct settings" would be for either the 9000 or the projector when using them in combination.
I have a Panasonic UB820, and I would imagine the settings are pretty similar.

Here's a post where I discussed my settings. It may or may not work well for you, but perhaps a starting point.

 

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Sounds like the Oppo is out putting BT709 and teh Panny is outputting BT2020 butit is being shown as BT709 which would be washed out.
Set the panny to auto f or res and colour depth etc as much as possible and make sure that the PJ is set to HDR 'Auto' too.
Also check to make sure you haven't manually set BT709 or a different colour space inadvertently on the PJ too.
The 695 would be considered 'basic luminance projector' i.e. 350 nits.
Thanks for your assistance!
 

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I have a Panasonic UB820, and I would imagine the settings are pretty similar.

Here's a post where I discussed my settings. It may or may not work well for you, but perhaps a starting point.

Thank you...I found your post earlier using the search function and will see if I can use the information...I appreciate you responding!
 

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Ran across something very interesting last night. I had my 695 professionally calibrated (about a year ago now) and have been pretty happy with the picture I get in my bat cave HT (with triple black velvet on side walls and ceiling). However, some movies seem very dim in very low light scenes, such as the movie I was watching last night, Captain Marvel. So, I decided to mess around with settings, switching from gamma 2.4 to 2.6 and then eventually cycling through all gamma settings and even turning gamma off. It seemed that turning gamma off had the best result in terms of bringing some decent brightness to the scene without washing it out. I then proceeded to experiment further, and found that with gamma off, I could set contrast enhancer all the way to the max setting and it looked really impressive! Great black levels, excellent brightness, colors popping, just really fantastic! This is with color setting custom 3 (based on D65 but with RGB values bumped up to 152 from 128) and the Panasonic UB820 with dynamic slider at +6. I'm not saying everyone should go out and turn off their gamma settings, but I decided to experiment last night and I was pretty amazed at the result. I will run through a lot more content to see if the settings hold up or just worked for this particular movie, but I'm all about trying things out, even if they don't make a lot of sense, because you never know when you might come across a combination of settings that really hits home with your particular space.
 

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Ran across something very interesting last night. I had my 695 professionally calibrated (about a year ago now) and have been pretty happy with the picture I get in my bat cave HT (with triple black velvet on side walls and ceiling). However, some movies seem very dim in very low light scenes, such as the movie I was watching last night, Captain Marvel. So, I decided to mess around with settings, switching from gamma 2.4 to 2.6 and then eventually cycling through all gamma settings and even turning gamma off. It seemed that turning gamma off had the best result in terms of bringing some decent brightness to the scene without washing it out. I then proceeded to experiment further, and found that with gamma off, I could set contrast enhancer all the way to the max setting and it looked really impressive! Great black levels, excellent brightness, colors popping, just really fantastic! This is with color setting custom 3 (based on D65 but with RGB values bumped up to 152 from 128) and the Panasonic UB820 with dynamic slider at +6. I'm not saying everyone should go out and turn off their gamma settings, but I decided to experiment last night and I was pretty amazed at the result. I will run through a lot more content to see if the settings hold up or just worked for this particular movie, but I'm all about trying things out, even if they don't make a lot of sense, because you never know when you might come across a combination of settings that really hits home with your particular space.
Great find.
Not all settings will be relevant or indeed necessary for all so I always find that getting the image as best you can in the environment you are in is most important, regardless of 'standards'.
Only projectors are this beholden to the room they are installed in.
 
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I've been noticing a lot of what I think is macroblocking in dark scenes from streaming sources. The attached photo is an example from Enola via Netflix. I think it is compression artifact.

Are there any specific settings I can adjust on the projector that might improve this?

Some more information:
  • I see this from multiple streaming services: Netflix, Apple, Vudu
  • I have seen it from the same streaming source across multiple devices: AppleTV, Panasonic BluRay player, PS4
  • I do not see the artifacts if I look at the same movie on disc
  • Does not happen if I switch to SDR

So to summarize, it is not unique to any specific streaming source or streaming device. It does seem to be linked to compression.

Question is can I do anything in projector settings to help?

Thanks a ton!!
3078410
 

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I've been noticing a lot of what I think is macroblocking in dark scenes from streaming sources. The attached photo is an example from Enola via Netflix. I think it is compression artifact.

Are there any specific settings I can adjust on the projector that might improve this?

Some more information:
  • I see this from multiple streaming services: Netflix, Apple, Vudu
  • I have seen it from the same streaming source across multiple devices: AppleTV, Panasonic BluRay player, PS4
  • I do not see the artifacts if I look at the same movie on disc
  • Does not happen if I switch to SDR

So to summarize, it is not unique to any specific streaming source or streaming device. It does seem to be linked to compression.

Question is can I do anything in projector settings to help?

Thanks a ton!!
View attachment 3078410
The only thing that I can suggest is to adjust your brightness or contrast a bit. Or cycle through the presets to see if any render it better and adjust from there?
 

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3,757 Posts
I've been noticing a lot of what I think is macroblocking in dark scenes from streaming sources. The attached photo is an example from Enola via Netflix. I think it is compression artifact.

Are there any specific settings I can adjust on the projector that might improve this?

Some more information:
  • I see this from multiple streaming services: Netflix, Apple, Vudu
  • I have seen it from the same streaming source across multiple devices: AppleTV, Panasonic BluRay player, PS4
  • I do not see the artifacts if I look at the same movie on disc
  • Does not happen if I switch to SDR

So to summarize, it is not unique to any specific streaming source or streaming device. It does seem to be linked to compression.

Question is can I do anything in projector settings to help?

Thanks a ton!!
View attachment 3078410
Are you using wireless? If so, maybe try and get a wired connection (maybe MoCa if you don't have a way to run ethernet cables). Also, check and see if you have this set: "Smooth Gradation: Low".
 

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The only thing that I can suggest is to adjust your brightness or contrast a bit. Or cycle through the presets to see if any render it better and adjust from there?
Are you using wireless? If so, maybe try and get a wired connection (maybe MoCa if you don't have a way to run ethernet cables). Also, check and see if you have this set: "Smooth Gradation: Low".
Thanks very much to both of you.

I finally had time to experiment a bit more today. I noticed that turning the brightness setting up from 50 to 53 eliminated most of the problem. However, I was under the impression that brightness should always be left alone at 50 for HDR, so I'm a bit confused whether I should put it back to 50 or leave it on 53.

m0j0, the internet is wired and has 600Mbps down and up, so I don't think speed is the issue. Smooth Gradation is set to low.

Also, my dynamic iris suddenly started working again. It is clicking though. I am concerned that if I leave it on, it will get stuck in a dim setting, so I have it turned off with brightness on max. Would be great to know if you'd suggest something different.
 
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