Does the noise stop if you are in high lamp mode?Hello everyone, yesterday I have received my own HW45. Its brand new, was built in March 2018.
I really am loving it so far but I think there is an issue. In low lamp mode it is making a high frequency noise, sometimes I find it to be unbearable and distracting, sometimes it just goes away for a moment (some seconds) and comes back in waves. In high lamp mode however, it is not there at all. Do I have the well known power supply issue? I tried to locate the noise and it is kind of right there where the power cord goes in.
Do you have the same noise? Will it go away after a while?
I would be very happy to hear from you guys soon.
I would not be happy to send it back.
I didn't do any research on this, but I just used a Leviton surge protection receptacle. I figured if they are good enough for hospitals, they should be good enough for my home theater.Can anyone recommend a good outlet surge protector I can use for this projector?
Yes, it is not an issue in High Lamp Mode. The noise instantly goes away if I switch to high lamp mode. Can it be the dimming noise of the lamp? It really is a high frequency. And it is super annoying and loud.Does the noise stop if you are in high lamp mode?
Yes, it is not an issue in High Lamp Mode. The noise instantly goes away if I switch to high lamp mode. Can it be the dimming noise of the lamp? It really is a high frequency. And it is super annoying and loud.
Withing the last week it got better, but it is still there until today... I will wait for some days now and use it often. If it doesnt go away, I will send it to Sony Prime Support.
Its a shame. I bought a new projector and will have to send it back...
I recently decided to upgrade to 1080p from a 720p Optoma Infocus IN78 from 2007. Not satisfied after evaluating the BenQ HT2050A and Optoma HD29darbee, I decided to look for a used HW45ES. OneCall had a refurbished HW45ES with a new lamp on eBay for $1000, which was a bit more than I wanted to spend. As I continued to shop and consider other options, the 45ES dropped to $800 and came with a 60-day return policy. I set it up on one of my theater chairs (not mounted yet), and have been using it the past couple of days.
Setup: Dedicated theater room with black ceiling and front wall, dark red side walls, and black furniture. Screen is a 100" diagonal original Stewart GreyHawk. I don't know the exact gain; it's around .85 or .9.
Color accuracy/white balance: Despite everyone's raving about this projector's color being so perfect out of the box, I found it to be far from perfect. Immediately, D65 seemed too purplish. I don't have a colorimeter with me (it's in storage in another city), but I used my Samsung Galaxy S8+ camera set to 6500K and took pictures of gray screens at 25%, 50%, and 75% gray. I used an Android app with an RGB histogram to adjust gain and bias in the custom white balance menu. To get neutral grays at 6500K, I got a Gain of R: 18, G: 0, B: -24 and Bias of R: 3, G: 0, B -8. The D65 setting is much more purple than my settings. Maybe my phone is off, but I think the colors look great now.
Gamut: Speaking of colors, I like that I can expand the color gamut. After experiencing wide-gamut displays on my portable devices and at the theater, I find rec.709/sRGB to be dull. sRGB red is especially weak and desaturated compared to real red objects. I'm no longer a huge stickler for accuracy as long as colors aren't too garish and skin tones still look good. Again, I don't have my colorimeter so I don't know exactly what the 45ES is capable of, but I eyeballed it against a few modes on my Galaxy S8+. (Info on the Galaxy S8 gamut settings.) The 45ES's reds can match Cinema (DCI-P3) but fall short of Adaptive (max gamut). The 45ES's greens can get get *more saturated* than DCI-P3 and almost match the Samsung's Dynamic mode. (It seems xvYCC allows for very saturated greens, so this makes sense.) Settings I found close to DCI-P3 primaries while maintaining a natural, balanced look were Red: Cyan-Red 25, Magenta-Green 2; Green: Cyan-Red -2, Magenta-Green 15, Blue: unchanged. These settings seem to genuinely affect the primaries (and therefore the gamut) only. They have no effect whatsoever on white balance or grayscale.
Uniformity The uniformity hasn't been great. Out of the box with a new lamp, there was a very obvious hotspot, along with wavy lines/"floaters." The distortion went away after about half an hour, but there's still a bit of a hotspot after 18 hours. On anything other than hockey or PC use, I don't notice. A full-black screen is also not as uniform as on my older InFocus. My 45ES is brighter along a diagonal; I'd rather have a simple vignetting. We'll see if it improves. But again, it's only visible on a full-black screen. It's noticeable in letterbox bars if I really look for it.
Black levels: Black levels are not as good as on my InFocus, but better than the BenQ HT2050A and Optoma HD29. However, full black is not neutral - it has a blue cast. Photographing it, I need to adjust white balance to about 9800K to get rid of the blue cast. When content is showing, however, there's no noticeable blue cast. As I write this, I'm watching Jimmy Kummel, and his black suit looks black, and dark gray things look dark gray. No complaints. I may try out an ND or FL filter - anyone know the best way to mount one?
Contrast:Contrast is fantastic. Using the Lagom contrast-ratio calculator tool, I get a consistent CR of over 7000:1 on High lamp mode and 96+contrast, better than anything you'll find in a commercial cinema except Dolby Cinema and Sony's latest commercial offerings. On contrast 80 (which I like for TV), I get around 5800:1. At Contrast 50, I get a really impressive 2800:1, better than my InFocus at its best.
Motion: Motion handling is pretty good. With MotionFlow turned off, there's maybe a tad more motion blur than my DLP. True Cinema slightly but not completely reduces judder on 24p Blu-Ray material, but I find it stutters occasionally with media played over VLC at 60hz and creates SOE on content that's not 24p. Both Smooth Low and Smooth High produce soap-opera effect on any 24fps content. Smooth High is decent for sports. I still feel like I prefer PixelWorks DNX with DLP to Sony's MotionFlow, but motion looks great on the 45ES regardless with MotionFlow off. My favorite mode for both movies and sports is actually "Combination," which is similar to Impulse but darkens the image only slightly; I get a very respectable 5626:1 CR. There is some flicker in solid white areas, but it's fine for content that doesn't have static fields of color. I would say it's remarkably "plasma-like." Combination is not available in 24p mode. I've attached a sequence of frames recorded at 480FPS of tonights NBA Finals game (8 frames per one frame on TV). It's not definitely not black frame insertion like Impulse. What it looks to be doing is showing two underexposed images and two overexposed images per frame, with images flashing at 240Hz.
3D: Didn't get a chance to try 3D
I was originally thinking about getting a projector I could use for both home theater and business travel, but the HW45ES is just so good for the latter. I'm leaning toward keeping the 45ES, and maybe I'll get a cheaper projector for business presentations.
I tried them all. It's not too difficult to calibrate with the Color Analysis app and my phone set to 6500K. I take photos and adjust gain and bias at 80 IRE and 10 IRE respectively, and I can achieve neutral 6500K grayscale up to about 90 IRE. (0 still has a blue tint and 100 ends up with a slight cyan tint if contrast is above 80.) This is without the service menu. I've attached some example calibration histograms. The third image shows what pure "black" (full off) looks like. The only way to get a more neutral black floor without a filter is to raise the green and red bias, raising the overall black level.What user mode(s) did you try? No one says calibration is 'perfect' out of the box. It's just very good in film 2 and reference settings, to the point that you shouldn't have to do anything as an average user. Although setting contrast and brightness should be included as a basic setup IMO. Also, if do a full calibration you should wait until after there is 100hrs on the bulb. That's a common suggestion for all projectors.
I tried them all. It's not too difficult to calibrate with the Color Analysis app and my phone set to 6500K. I take photos and adjust gain and bias at 80 IRE and 10 IRE respectively, and I can achieve neutral 6500K grayscale up to about 90 IRE. (0 still has a blue tint and 100 ends up with a slight cyan tint if contrast is above 80.) This is without the service menu. I've attached some example calibration histograms. The third image shows what pure "black" (full off) looks like. The only way to get a more neutral black floor without a filter is to raise the green and red bias, raising the overall black level.
About 60 hours in, black levels are better and the image is more uniform. I've been experimenting with an ND2 filter and some 81A filters to improve black levels and compensate for the blue cast. The ND2 filter cuts the light in half, and
I'm certainly not performing a full calibration. I'm just using a MacBook Pro - one I watch content from. Why shouldn't a PC be considered an accurate source though? Because of color management?I'm sure you are aware but...
Are you using a device that provides reference test patterns, if not then the combination of app/phone along with inaccurate test patterns (a pc generating patterns is not considered to be accurate) then your readings will obviously be off as well.
That said you certainly can use your current method to measure for variance from one setting to the other with the understanding that the reads will not be entirely accurate.
I think what ever looks right to you is the best settings.I'm certainly not performing a full calibration. I'm just using a MacBook Pro - one I watch content from. Why shouldn't a PC be considered an accurate source though? Because of color management?
I don't know how accurate my results are, but I can tell you they look great - better than any of the presets.
My experience is with the Sony 40ES, not 45Es and I have cleaned the filter twice after getting a clean filter message. The filter is basically some kind of spongy material and is easily washed clean. After drying I replace it and reset the projector. My understanding is that a new filter comes with the replacement bulb.I'm actually interested in what to do with the filter (how to clean and when to replace).
Read that the filter needs to be replaced after changing the lamp.
Thanks for sharing. I'm right @ 500 hours on my first lamp so still a few months to go before cleaning/changing anythingMy experience is with the Sony 40ES, not 45Es and I have cleaned the filter twice after getting a clean filter message. The filter is basically some kind of spongy material and is easily washed clean. After drying I replace it and reset the projector. My understanding is that a new filter comes with the replacement bulb.
You'll get a new filter if you buy a 100% OEM lamp. If it not 100% OEM th elamp will not come with the filter. To clean it just turn the faucet on lightly and run cold water on it dirty side down so that the dirt doesnt go into the filter..Thanks for sharing. I'm right @ 500 hours on my first lamp so still a few months to go before cleaning/changing anything
Have a nice day,
Turns out there is a service menu accessed by pressing enter enter left enter on the remote. In other models, that code accesses the "factory" menu and a different code accesses the service menu. What I'm looking for is finer control of color balance than just two-point gain and bias adjustments. The service menu has a two-point adjustment that goes further than the regular menu adjustment, but it's still a two-point option. (The RGB sliders go from 0-255 with a default of 127 instead of -30 to +30 with a default of 0, and "bias" is called "offset.") Does anyone know if there's a factory menu for finer adjustments at different IRE levels? (Feel free to PM if you don't want to disclose here.)You just set the modes to custom and it allows you to change the settings.