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There's no certainty here regardless of content. Is your -10 a true -10 from reference? Do you run your subs dead flat with no house curve? Is your room EQ applying any filters to the subwoofer? All of these things play a major part in how the subwoofer will handle a situation. Being 13cuft boxes I would assume a small LT is still in use. This too affects the power consumption.
Thanks for the comments. i think I will put both subs in one channel. That will be roughly 1700w per sub into 4ohms.
To answer your question, I havn't played with minidsp yet, still setting up. Just got my 1st room measurement with audyssey calibration. This is how it looks, no filters yet.
 

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Thanks for the comments. i think I will put both subs in one channel. That will be roughly 1700w per sub into 4ohms.
To answer your question, I havn't played with minidsp yet, still setting up. Just got my 1st room measurement with audyssey calibration. This is how it looks, no filters yet.
A good start.

Tip: When posting response graphs, please make the y-axis constrained to 5dB increments to get a more granular look at the response.
 

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A good start.

Tip: When posting response graphs, please make the y-axis constrained to 5dB increments to get a more granular look at the response.
Just tried that and it looks terrible. I thought I was happy with audyssey results but clearly I have some work to do tuning things. Don't think the purpose of this thread is posting graphs so not sure I should keep doing that. I will set up the minidsp 2x4hd and try fine tune things.
 

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Just tried that and it looks terrible. I thought I was happy with audyssey results but clearly I have some work to do tuning things. Don't think the purpose of this thread is posting graphs so not sure I should keep doing that. I will set up the minidsp 2x4hd and try fine tune things.
With a 13 cu.ft. enclosure, which is on the large size, you definitely need to be careful with too much power. As Pradeep2 mentioned, Lone Survivor has a 6.7Hz signal that is 10dB louder than the rest of the soundtrack. Basically the engineer didn’t realize that signal was there as I guess they’re not aware people have systems capable of reproducing those signals. There are many other movies with content in the teens and lower though it isn’t consistent. I wish we could get all audio engineers in Hollywood to use 24s for mastering.

And the reason I recommended a pair of 18s to go along with your 24s was to even out the bass in your room, making it more optimal at multiple listening positions. Here’s an experiment you could try. Turn off one of your subs and walk around when playing some music with deep bass. You’ll find that as you get to the corners the bass will be stronger and maybe even boomy. I’m sure there will be other locations in the room where the bass will be a bit lean. Switch to the other sub as the only one playing and walk around the room again. Finally, turn on both subs and see if the bass is a little better throughout the room. If you were to add a pair of 18s to the back of the room, assuming your 24s are up front, you’ll get more even bass throughout the room.

Your idea to use a MiniDSP is a good one though if you don’t have one yet, get the 2x4HD or better as it has more power and more capability. One spec I remember being different between the 2x4 and 2x4HD is delay with the standard being limited to the 15ms and the HD allowing up to 80ms. And when you start working with the DSP, focus on cutting frequencies as opposed to boosting frequencies.
 

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Just tried that and it looks terrible. I thought I was happy with audyssey results but clearly I have some work to do tuning things. Don't think the purpose of this thread is posting graphs so not sure I should keep doing that. I will set up the minidsp 2x4hd and try fine tune things.
With a 13 cu.ft. enclosure, which is on the large size, you definitely need to be careful with too much power. As Pradeep2 mentioned, Lone Survivor has a 6.7Hz signal that is 10dB louder than the rest of the soundtrack. Basically the engineer didn’t realize that signal was there as I guess they’re not aware people have systems capable of reproducing those signals. There are many other movies with content in the teens and lower though it isn’t consistent. I wish we could get all audio engineers in Hollywood to use 24s for mastering.

And the reason I recommended a pair of 18s to go along with your 24s was to even out the bass in your room, making it more optimal at multiple listening positions. Here’s an experiment you could try. Turn off one of your subs and walk around when playing some music with deep bass. You’ll find that as you get to the corners the bass will be stronger and maybe even boomy. I’m sure there will be other locations in the room where the bass will be a bit lean. Switch to the other sub as the only one playing and walk around the room again. Finally, turn on both subs and see if the bass is a little better throughout the room. If you were to add a pair of 18s to the back of the room, assuming your 24s are up front, you’ll get more even bass throughout the room.

Your idea to use a MiniDSP is a good one though if you don’t have one yet, get the 2x4HD or better as it has more power and more capability. One spec I remember being different between the 2x4 and 2x4HD is delay with the standard being limited to the 15ms and the HD allowing up to 80ms. And when you start working with the DSP, focus on cutting frequencies as opposed to boosting frequencies.
Thanks David. I will consider the 18s the next time I get an itch. My 24s are both at the back of the room. Trying to maximize tactile response close to mlp. About the minidsp, I already have the 2x4hd version. I just haven't been able to set it up, but thanks for the advice.
 

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Just finished my DIY 10g cryo power cable for my SP2-12000-DP. I can't believe the tiny 14g cable they provide with the amp. Have they never heard of overkill?!

Also a quick pic of the 12g cryo cables I made for my Emotiva amps (a DR3 and 2x XPA-7's). Still waiting for my SI SHS-24's to get the theater build log going....
 

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Just finished my DIY 10g cryo power cable for my SP2-12000-DP. I can't believe the tiny 14g cable they provide with the amp. Have they never heard of overkill?!

Also a quick pic of the 12g cryo cables I made for my Emotiva amps (a DR3 and 2x XPA-7's). Still waiting for my SI SHS-24's to get the theater build log going....
Just curious, why did you go with the DP instead of the HT model?
 

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I hear that. What are you using the trigger the amp?
Built a small box that mounts to the back of my rack post, based on the relay box by @notnyt. I used a single relay board and wired one input and two outputs in preparation for a second SP amp in the near future.

Haven't tested it yet, so feel free to double check my work 👍
 

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Is the sp1-1400-ht a mono or a 2 channel amp???
And are there any output power measurements for any of the plate amps or the rack mounts?? I didnt go through the 23 pages here and the "measuring amplifiers" thread has 65900 pages!!!!
 

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Built a small box that mounts to the back of my rack post, based on the relay box by @notnyt. I used a single relay board and wired one input and two outputs in preparation for a second SP amp in the near future.

Haven't tested it yet, so feel free to double check my work 👍
can't tell from the angle, but you might need to run the 12v input to power as well.
 

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Is the sp1-1400-ht a mono or a 2 channel amp???
And are there any output power measurements for any of the plate amps or the rack mounts?? I didnt go through the 23 pages here and the "measuring amplifiers" thread has 65900 pages!!!!
The table on the first page of the SpeakerPower website show the 1400 to be an SP2-1400, which is a 2 channel amp. Realize those amps outputting 2,400w and below are only stable to 4-ohm.

SpeakerPower amps output their rated power and it is a continuous output capability, not burst. So the SP1-4000 will output a genuine and sustained 4,000w at 2 ohms. But realize these are subwoofer amps and not designed for full range output. Same with SP1-6000 though with 240V. And the SP2-8000 and SP2-12000 are just dual mono versions of the SP1 plate amps.

Regarding efficiency, they are over 95% efficient class-D designs, which is why they don’t need much in the way of heatsinks for the HT versions though the Pro versions do have heatsinks.

If you’re wondering whether these specs are over-rated, don’t. I’ve been using them for years and they are the real deal. And they’ve been tested multiple times and they have exceeded capability and are hands down the best subwoofer amp on the market at even twice the cost. Part of that is that there really aren’t any subwoofer specific amps and comparable full range amps by companies like Crown or Powersoft are much more expensive. The closest capable amp for consumers is the Peavey IPR2-7500 but having done a back to back test, the SP2-8000 is definitely more powerful but at twice the cost. And for those that might mention powerful clone amps from China, I won’t run or recommend amps without a UL listing since I don’t want my insurance company to have a potential reason to turn down a claim.
 

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Is the sp1-1400-ht a mono or a 2 channel amp???

And are there any output power measurements for any of the plate amps or the rack mounts?? I didnt go through the 23 pages here and the "measuring amplifiers" thread has 65900 pages!!!!
The sp1-1400-HT is a single input (mono) amp with two 700w output modules. You would generally use this for a dual woofer design (maybe dual opposed)?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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On SpeakerPower's facebook page I see some new models in the photos? SP2-12000-HCR. Does anybody know anything about this? Their website doesn't have anything on them.
Looks like they have a user adjustable high pass filter in addition to standard low pass filter (xover) knob, taking up the control previously used for room size/lfe boost.



Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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I bought a SP1-700-HT for a DIYSG 15" Utlimax sub build. The only issue i am having is locating connections on the amp for powering the sub. Speakerpower's website only shows a 6-wire plug for SP1 wiring, and i do not seem to have one as far as i can see.

There is a 4pin connector near the edge labeled P107, and a 2 pin labeled P108. As this doesnt match their documentation, i was trying to find the right connectors for this and the wiring diagram for the ports i have.

https://i.imgur.com/GeaTAEC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/12LredY.jpg?1

Does anyone have any insight on this?
 

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I'm looking to build 2 sealed 18" Fi car audio HT3's. In 6>3 foot boxes. They are rated for 2000 watts. It was suggested to me to look at the speakerpower amps to provide the necessary power to run these subs. Just looking for some clarification. The subs are 4ohm svc. So was thinking the sp2-4800 would be the amp I wanted. Correct me if I'm wrong.

1. I was doing research but lack of pictures and confusing info.
The wiring option on the DP model? Ch1+ch2 ch2? And ch1+ch1 ch2+ch2? What's this all about

2. Next is the dsp options in the Ht model. Is this just reference to the knobs on the front of the unit? I found a dsp quick start info on the website. But is this like a program like the inuke has or is this just options that you can request from manufacturer. Cause I read that guys can make requests to manufacture?

3. Speaker connections. Can someone confirm both models have speakon connectors or the ht has terminals?

4. Is there an advantage to either model? Would I be better off with a mini dsp and the DP. Or the ht model? Do i still need a mini dsp?

Thanks in advance
 

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Perhaps dumb questions-

1) Do the rack amps make any physical noise? Transformer hums or buzzing?
2) How about on the speaker side? Humm, hiss, or anything else besides beautiful bass?
 
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