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I see no DQ77KB in that thread, the one with all the pictures is an AMD board. Regardless a good part of the socket is in front of the heat pipe mount on the side, thin-itx is quite a bit different than all the other layouts.


I wish thin-itx would become a more popular standard, it dictates socket position, smaller so-dimms which are just as cheap and no obstructions above a certain height. It also uses onboard DC-DC with external bricks which removes some heat and wiring from the case. (pcio-psu are way overpriced for their wattage compared to good laptop bricks)
 

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Discussion Starter #222
I am sorry I didn't help. It looks to me that CPU placement on both MoBos is similar.


Regards
 

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I installed the short heat pipes in my FC8-EVO this weekend. My board is an ASUS H87I-PLUS and I'm using an i5-4570S CPU. I could fit pipes 1 through 3 but not number 4. There's a small vertical electrolytic capacitor in the way of number 4 and it's so close to the mounting block that I don't think I could easily bend past it. Still, without number 4 it seems to work just fine. I've not run Prime95 on it yet ... perhaps sometime this week.



 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman192  /t/1394604/official-streacom-thread/210#post_24325082


I was researching the Streacom IRRC for solutions to drivers which has to due with getting eHome drivers loaded.  I want my remote to work with XBMC after power up.  It does not.  If I load Microsoft Media Server, then exit and load XBMC the remote works as expected, so I'm guessing I need to find and load the eHome drivers at boot to get this working.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Second, I came across the discussion on an HTPC build using the following components which is what I used with my HTPC so wanted to share that it can be done even with the heatpipe issue.


[...]


Hope this helps anyone that gets stuck like this. 


Snowman192

I just read your post now. I wrote a rather scathing review about this case precisely because I couldn't get the Asrock Z87E-ITX to fit. I got it with a I3-4130T (tdp of 35W) so I would have been fine with fitting only the three heatpipes that don't interfere with the CMOS battery, but my problem was that the bend of the pipes (where the flat part that fits on the CPU hitsink bend slightly upwards toward the case heatsinks) were too far away from the wall of the case, i.e. I would not have been able to assemble the top of the cpu heatsink.


Your pictures pose with me with somewhat of a puzzle. I got the Streacom FC5 Evo to be exact (you state FC5 OD, I don't know the difference) and I am assuming we were working with the same heatpipes. Might there have been a QA issue where my pipes were bent just a few mm's off, did you need to bend the pipes when screwing the top of the CPU heatsink in place? Or am I going nuts and did I see wrong when dry-installing (by this I mean doing a dry run, I took one heatpipe, held it agains the wall of the case, held the bottom of the CPU heatsink as close to the bend of the pipe as I could, and saw that the bottom of the heatsink was clearly of center by about 5mm). I ended up returning the case.


Am I missing something? Hope you can reply to this.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by clom  /t/1394604/official-streacom-thread/210#post_24428338


I just read your post now. I wrote a rather scathing review about this case precisely because I couldn't get the Asrock Z87E-ITX to fit. I got it with a I3-4130T (tdp of 35W) so I would have been fine with fitting only the three heatpipes that don't interfere with the CMOS battery, but my problem was that the bend of the pipes (where the flat part that fits on the CPU hitsink bend slightly upwards toward the case heatsinks) were too far away from the wall of the case, i.e. I would not have been able to assemble the top of the cpu heatsink.


Your pictures pose with me with somewhat of a puzzle. I got the Streacom FC5 Evo to be exact (you state FC5 OD, I don't know the difference) and I am assuming we were working with the same heatpipes. Might there have been a QA issue where my pipes were bent just a few mm's off, did you need to bend the pipes when screwing the top of the CPU heatsink in place? Or am I going nuts and did I see wrong when dry-installing (by this I mean doing a dry run, I took one heatpipe, held it agains the wall of the case, held the bottom of the CPU heatsink as close to the bend of the pipe as I could, and saw that the bottom of the heatsink was clearly of center by about 5mm). I ended up returning the case.


Am I missing something? Hope you can reply to this.

I had the same problem. Even bending up by the battery wouldn't fix the issue because the CPU socket was too close to the all. The pipes transitioned from flat to round and would not let you assembly the CPU mount. There are the short pipes now you can order from Perfect Home Theater. They should work better.


Actually, they appear out of stock. Anyone know if the Short heatpipes for FLS chassis-HP4-97mm will be back in stock at Perfect Home Theater?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminum  /t/1394604/official-streacom-thread/210#post_24344120


I wish thin-itx would become a more popular standard, it dictates socket position, smaller so-dimms which are just as cheap and no obstructions above a certain height. It also uses onboard DC-DC with external bricks which removes some heat and wiring from the case.

They also let you use the mobo-specific half-height I/O shield in 1U case! Too bad those cases don't seem to exist. I'm thrilled with the DQ77KB I've got...it's an awesome little board, but I die a little when I remember it's currently sitting inside a huge Silverstone GD07
 

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I have a FLM-8 which is similar to the Streacom FC-8. I bought the short pipes from prefect home theater for my ASRock Z87 ITX motherboard and they fit and work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #228

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank_PD  /t/1394604/official-streacom-thread/210#post_24429579


I had the same problem. Even bending up by the battery wouldn't fix the issue because the CPU socket was too close to the all. The pipes transitioned from flat to round and would not let you assembly the CPU mount. There are the short pipes now you can order from Perfect Home Theater. They should work better.


Actually, they appear out of stock. Anyone know if the Short heatpipes for FLS chassis-HP4-97mm will be back in stock at Perfect Home Theater?
They are arrived today, so I grabbed FC5, installed ASRock H81M-ITX and checked how new pipes will fit. Look at pictures. CPU socket can be 4÷5 mm closer to wall and it still will be OK.

I don’t have ASROCK Z87E-ITX, but looking at pictures it looks to me, that socket on ASROCK Z87E-ITX is closer to motherboard edge, but just a little, so it should be OK – I think.

Just look at pictures, please.





I moved bottom plate close to wall ~6mm (total distance 32mm) and still could put upper bracket with no problem. I think that I can assure you that 33mm from wall is safe. So if the edge of CPU mount is at least 14mm from Motherboard edge – you are OK. (It is 19mm from the Motherboard edge on H81M-ITX)




I hope that my info and pictures are helpful.


Regards
 

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Zygmunt: when you compare the new short pipes to the regular pipes that come with the FC5, do they transition from flat to round at the same spot? "Earlier"?
 

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Discussion Starter #231
Yes, but only 2÷3mm and it may differ from sample to sample - I think. I compared carefully again Streacom pipes and PHT HP-97mm pipes today. I attached both pipes to radiator to be sure that both pipes are pressed against radiator firmly. Streacom pipe is on the left.

Results are about the same like before. Here are my pictures:





It looks to me that Streacom pipes are changing from flat to round slower than PHT pipes:





To be absolutely sure I made another test with bottom and upper plates:

Streacom pipe is 36mm, PHT is 32mm away from radiator (I think that I squeezed it a little), but another PHT pipes are 34mm away, so I would consider 34mm away from radiator as realistic. They may differ from set to set, I think.





I put all four HP4-97 into Intel plates. I don't know why , I was even closer to radiator:



You can also try to move Motherboard a little from radiator and cooling plates as well after loosing long and hex screw first. You should gain ~2mm - if you didn't do it already.

I hope that I helped you guys a little.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasto38  /t/1394604/official-streacom-thread/210#post_24502340


And for every one who doesn't like power adaptator  ...

a Streacom FC05 with power inside !

I have the same case, where can I get that power supply?
 

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I found mine here

 

http://www.reichelt.de/Power-Devices/SNT-HRP-150-12/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=108261&GROUPID=4959&artnr=SNT+HRP+150+12

 

the price is not with VAT and shipping ...

 

You can find  less expensive on amazon but this "Meanwell" is the only which is as little as possible to be with DVD in the FC05

(On amazon,I found a power for 13€ (20 usd i think) but it is too big
...)

here:

http://www.amazon.fr/Timetop-Transformateur-tension-commutateur-dalimentation/dp/B00EERWBNO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1M6E5YZXN0GGXJKVZYW7

 

Only with Streacom FC05 without DVD ...

 

And after I take this :

http://www.logicsupply.fr/power-supplies/dc-converters/picopsu-160-xt/

 

 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasto38  /t/1394604/official-streacom-thread/210#post_24506228


I found mine here

http://www.reichelt.de/Power-Devices/SNT-HRP-150-12/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=108261&GROUPID=4959&artnr=SNT+HRP+150+12


the price is not with VAT and shipping ...


You can find  less expensive on amazon but this "Meanwell" is the only which is as little as possible to be with DVD in the FC05

(On amazon,I found a power for 13€ (20 usd i think) but it is too big
...)

here:
http://www.amazon.fr/Timetop-Transformateur-tension-commutateur-dalimentation/dp/B00EERWBNO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1M6E5YZXN0GGXJKVZYW7


Only with Streacom FC05 without DVD ...


And after I take this :
http://www.logicsupply.fr/power-supplies/dc-converters/picopsu-160-xt/


This is awesome. Do you have any more detailed instructions? Did the female power chord from the power supply to the back of the case come with the small power supply, or did you buy that elsewhere too?
 

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No this power supply is "naked"


 

I bought this :

 



 

and this :

 





After It is very easy . You have a connector block with power in (110V / 230V) and DC out 12V where you plug your Pico PSU

Just fix it into the Streacom with one bolt through one hole in the bottom.

 

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I'm having problems with the IRRC reciever in my new FC5 EVO-case, it wont turn on (or off) by the remote controller

I have verified that the internal USB has power with a multimeter. The case power button switch works though. I've also tried remapping keys with the software from Streacom website.


Case power switch is connected to IRRC module pwsw1 and pwsw2 to mobo as in manual.


What command should be mapped to a remote button to act as the power switch?

What could I have missed?


Cheers, Mike
 

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Streacom FC8 and FC8 evo.

Can I use the same motherboard for Streacom FC8 which is compatible with
Streacom FC8 evo?
 

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