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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This thread is intended for SV Sub owners to help one another with their wonderful sub. With any luck, you will find SV Sub employees helping to answer your questions.


Please remember...This thread is not intended to promote the line...but support it. It is with this spirit this thread has been opened.


It also is not intended to debate the line or be used to do A/B comparisons.


Thank you.


(This is something new we will try. Thus any manufacture is welcome to have us open a thread for the product as long as it will be for supporrt.)
 

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TV, I know you're very familiar with Mackie amps so maybe you can help me out here. I'm using an M1400i with my 16-46's and I want to introduce a low cut filter. I'd like to have it at the rolloff point which should be 16Hz, sound good so far? The knob on the Mackie isn't very precise, I believe it starts at 10Hz and then the 12 o'clock position is at 35Hz. Can you tell me what position the tick mark on the knob should be at for 16Hz? Any other enlightenment on this matter would be welcome.


Too bad my BFD is only good down to 20Hz or this would be a lot easier. :) Speaking of the BFD, would you recommend using an XLR I/C between it and the Mackie, a TRS, or a plain old unbalanced TS. The I/C length will be about 3 feet. And is there any benefit to using both channels on the BFD, one to each sub amp channel with mirrored settings or should I just use the "summed mono" on the amp and one channel of the BFD.


That's a lotta questions! All replies are welcome.


Thanks in advance.
 

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bigwally: I guess you could find a wav file with a 15Hz tone and then burn it to a CD, and then play that CD tone over and over while you tweak down the Mackie's knob. If the Mackie's low cut filter is brick walled, then you'd just adjust till you no longer get any output. If the Mackies low cut filter is a rolled off crossover type, then you'd have to use a RS meter to find where the knob produces a min -3dB(or more?) setting in 16Hz level. Or... you could simply count the number of hashmarks on the know control and divide the difference between 10Hz and 35Hz by that number and then count up from the 10Hz hashmark by the correct number of marks.
 

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Thanks Merc. I've got a sine wave generator on my laptop but knowing that Tom uses Mackie's and has played with the low cut filter I just thought he could save me a little effort. :)
 

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Hi guys,


With the *gross* tuning feel to the Mackie subsonic knob...I have always used the same method Merc described. Remember, if you technically want the highpass filter to be 16hz....than you would want the signal to be about 3dB down by then. Using 46s, what would be the lowest frequencies you will send the subs with actual source material? DVDs like TPM, TITAN AE, pipe organ music? Depending on the room size,and calibration/volume levels you use...you might be able to set the subsonic filter on the Mackie to its lowest (10hz) point.


I still have three M1200s in my "LFE" rack from the good ole' DIY days :) I know some folks don't think much of the Mackies...but I've never had a problem with my three,


TV
 

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Thanks guys,


Your right, at my spot the bass begins to rolloff at 16Hz and the music I listen to often uses every bit of that, so I don't want to actually set the filter at 16HZ, I want it to begin it's attenuation there. I've had an occasional rumble induced bottoming with certain movies in the past so I figured this couldn't hurt. OTOH I haven't found the excursion limit since I put in the newer double beef woofers, but at the same time I really don't want the woofers paddling air on occasion for no good reason.


Mackie says the lowest setting on the knob is actually "below" 10Hz so that makes it harder to WAG a setting. Guess I'll have to play with it if I decide to use this filter but I just thought I'd ask for a freebie since I'm getting ready to fight my way to the back of the rack to install the BFD. Wish that rack had wheels.


"I know some folks don't think much of the Mackies..."


Wasn't that mainly due to the ribbon cable bugs of a few years ago? I work a little with live sound and I remember some scuttlebut about that awhile ago but that seemed to be cleared up before I got mine. I slowed the fan down enough to get it quiet and it's been great for the 2 years I've used it.


Any opinions on the connection questions?
 

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With only a 3 foot run, I don't think it will matter which type of cable run you use. If the BFD accepts the big 1/4" plugs...just use a 1/4" to 1/4" run and you'll be fine. I can't remember what the big issue was with the Mackies...I do think it had something to do with the ribbon cables now that you mention it though,


Another nice thing about the Mackies is they are fine into 2ohms. I have one powering a couple of SV test units now :)


TV
 

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Thanks TV. That's what I ended up going with as I couldn't find compelling evidence toward a balanced connection benefiting such a short run in a meaningful way.


"Another nice thing about the Mackies is they are fine into 2ohms. I have one powering a couple of SV test units now :)"


Interesting. New PC model test mules or something completely different up your sleeve? One can only wonder.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes...ditto that.


Also also the port kits. What is the best way to go about these? Those who have used the port kit...Experiences?


Also...will the new drivers fit in the CS Ultra? If so...any advantage in doing so?
 

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Yes,


Free port plugs for "old" Ultra customers have been available for some time, and the grill upgrades have been up on the site for a couple weeks.


You can access both here: http://www.svsubwoofers.com/parts.htm


The primary reason to upgrade your grill would be to allow easy swap of the port plug (which allows quick tuning changes by plugging one of your three ports), since no damping screws need be removed once the modification is made. Cosmetically then, the new grill is much cleaner and high-tech looking but again, that's a distant second to quick removal allowed with the newer design.


We also moved this direction since it allows for easier/quicker assembly which yields a top less prone to shipping damage. A win-win, though it actually costs a bit more since the foam blocks were somewhat costly to design.


Sonically the old grill was no different from the new by our measurements.


Ron
 

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I have a question. :)


Will a single SVS CS-Ultra (with SVS SS driver) w/Samson S1000 amplifier be enough for a room that is about 14 feet by 14 feet? Will it provide bass that will shake you from the inside? :)
 

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Kain,


You might hear from folks with a single Ultra, or Tom Vodhanel (R/D Chief) might stop by (he's actually hip deep in some research at the moment) to provide some actual numbers based on our experience measuring the current crop of SVS products.


However, on a purely subjective basis, I think the answer to your question is certainly yes. Though what you consider "enough" might differ greatly from what others feel is "enough". I'm running a single Ultra at the moment in a 11'x14' closed HT and can tell you that anything not made of stone will be moved, if you care to. Naturally there is much more to bass performance than "shake" but that sort of described effect is certainly not going to be achieved without sufficient clean SPL's at various key bass frequencies. Generally we keep to Dolby specifications for home theater SPLs to maintain a common "baseline" for the many different HT and music enthusiasts out there. Anything Tom V. provides on this topic will certainly be couched in such terms of reference as it tends to minimize much of the "hype" in this arena.


Probably the most important consideration in achieving any given amount of bass "impact" is if your room open to other areas or closed. Drop us an e-mail or fax with a sketch of your room and Tom can determine just what sort of clean bass you can expect at various frequencies. Don't forget about the height of your room and those critical openings to other rooms. If you indicate where you sit and where your prime preferred subwoofer locations would be, even better.


You can send that sketch to [email protected] if you want to go beyond the pure subjective and get some hard numbers as to what you could expect with that combo. We can e-mail you our fax number if that would work better.


Ron
 

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I have upgraded to a Lexicon MC-12B which sounds great but I have lost bass output. I run a pair of 29-39CS+ subs driven by a Hafler XL-600 that provides 500watts/channel. Subs are next to each other rear corner loaded.


The MC-12 left sub output is connected to an RCA that is split to both Hafler channels. On the Lex sub=mono xover=70HZ LFE=on

All speakers have 80HZ crossover and lower response limits.


Previously using Audio Control Richter Scale xover40Hz Freq Response=1

No EQ. just via Lex=2

One sub=3

All values corrected


Hz 1 2 3

17 81.5

20 79.5 73.5 70.5

25 83.5 76 76

31 92 86 77

40 94 88.5 77.5

50 71.5 75.5 69.5

60 74.5 69.5 55.5

70 69.5 60.5 59.5

80 74 72 71


What has happened to my 20Hz and below response? Do I have the Lex hooked up correctly? Where do I go from here?


Thanks,

Dave
 

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Hi David,


The new drivers *drop* right in to the CS_Ultra enclosures. One thing you do NOT want to do is *drop* them on your foot though...I think this variation goes 35-40Lb :)


The performance differences will be subtle for the most part. The new design uses dual 9.8" spiders(compared to the older 8" spiders),and a new voice coil design. These 2 improvements(along with several minor tweaks) has increase the linear excursion capabilities of the Ultra driver by approx 30%. While that sounds very impressive, it should be mentioned that once you reach the level of performance the original Ultra driver was capable of...another 30% linear excursion might only give you another dB or so of clean output capabilities. The new voice coil is going to be more resistant to thermal compression factors...but just how audible that will be(compared to the already excellent original Ultra driver) is also debateable.


With dual Ultras in your room already...I would suspect upgrading to the new drivers might give you another dB or so of maximum clean output capabilities....but based on our previous conversations...I don't think you were running into any output limits on the *old* Ultras...correct?



TV
 

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>>>I have a question.


Will a single SVS CS-Ultra (with SVS SS driver) w/Samson S1000 amplifier be enough for a room that is about 14 feet by 14 feet? Will it provide bass that will shake you from the inside?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi Guy...


The twins are doing very fine (11x25 room). The only issue I have had is the Jarrisic Park III where it over extended the drivers. (not a nice sound.)


I was just wondering if it would be better. But seeing how these are wonderful now, and with what you mentioned, I guess it is not needed.


Thanks.
 

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Hi Dave, I know you have a couple of real MC-12 experts helping with the subwoofer stuff in another thread :)One thing though...are you saying you are lowpassing the subwoofer at 70hz and then lowpassing that signal with the AC eq at 40hz? if so...where does the highpass output of the AC eq go?


TV
 

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Hi David,


With about 0.01% of DVDs..at loud volume...it is possible to "over-extend" the SVs :) One thing you can try is plugging one port on each SVS(which will lower the tuning points from 20hz to about 16-17hz) and/or adding one of the new SVS blackboxes we offer that include several cool features including a subsonic filter that would slightly attenuate the deepest bass before it could cause the subwoofers to strain.With one plug in each CS_U...you should get very loud output down to the 12-15hz range in your room before the drivers strain at all.


Do you have a pair of the port plugs from SVS yet? If not...I'll have a couple on the way to you on Tuesday.


TV
 
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