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I have the audio components of my rebuilt HT system pretty much in place. Here's what I have to work with:

Denon 3600 and Marantz 7205 for 7.2.4 setup with front LCR, side and rear surrounds, mid and rear height speakers.

Room is 26.5' long, 12.5' wide and 7.5' high. There is no room for subs on the screen wall.

PB16U and PB13U subs
Ultra towers and center
Ultra side surrounds
Prime bookshelf rear surrounds
Prime elevation heights (4)

I have not yet run Audyssey. What port configuration should I start with on the subs and the Ultra towers?

The PB16U seemed to only come with a single foam plug, why?

Merlin suggests 50hz crossover for the towers with PB16, agree?

Do I really need UMIK1/REW to get the most out of my system? I'm not set up for it at this point.

I will have the PB16 near field right behind the single row of seats. I wasn't originally planning on having both subs, not sure yet where to put the PB13. Obviously it's big so it can't just go anywhere. Sound aside, they don't look that great side by side because of the different dimensions. I could sell the PB13 if it doesn't really contribute.

I'm running the subs on wireless soundpath connects.

Experimentation is ok, but I'd like to start with a well-reasoned sound starting point. Thanks!

Hi,

I will make a few comments to help you get started. First, I would probably do my initial calibration with just the PB16. If it is already rear nearfield in a 2500^3 room, it may be enough by itself. And, you will avoid potential integration issues that way. You can always try adding in the PB13 later, if you want to, but at that point you will already have a listening baseline established to compare with the sound of the dual subs. You can calibrate the PB16 in either port tune, borrowing a plug from the PB13 if you want to use Standard mode. (Meanwhile, contact SVS, and they will send you two more port plugs for the PB16.)

There is some advantage to calibrating in Standard mode, and then switching to Extended mode afterwards, in that Audyssey won't EQ away quite as much of your room gain. You could achieve the same effect by establishing a HPF (high-pass filter) at about 20Hz, and then removing it post-calibration. But, I think most people may be more comfortable just switching modes. If you end-up using REW at some point, it will be a lot easier to make sense of the whole room gain issue.

You won't need to establish a port tuning mode for your speakers. Their port tune is not a variable. It is set by the factory and integral to the speakers' design. The lowest crossover I would personally consider for those speakers is 60Hz (regardless of what Merlin says), and Denon/Marantz AVR's don't offer a 50Hz crossover anyway. The next crossover choice below 60Hz is 40Hz.

There are multiple variables involved with selecting crossovers, including the inherent capability of the speakers, how they interact with the room, and their relative capabilities to play mid-bass frequencies, compared to the much more powerful PB16. You will learn a little bit about your speakers' interaction with the room from the initial crossover set by your AVR. Afterwards, I would probably start with 80Hz crossovers and see how that sounds. You can, and often should, go up from wherever your AVR initially sets a crossover. You should almost never go down.

The Cliff Notes on the the first page of the Guide, in my signature, will give you some additional tips to help you get started. At some point, experimentation will still be your best friend. But, it can always be informed experimentation, and other sections of the Guide can help with that.

Regards,
Mike
 

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Hi,

....
You won't need to establish a port tuning mode for your speakers. Their port tune is not a variable. It is set by the factory and integral to the speakers' design. The lowest crossover I would personally consider for those speakers is 60Hz (regardless of what Merlin says), and Denon/Marantz AVR's don't offer a 50Hz crossover anyway. The next crossover choice below 60Hz is 40Hz.
.....
Mike
The Ultra Towers did come with a plug for their single port and the manual mentions using it when room gain is excessive.
Leave it out initially?
 

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I've had my passive svs sub for well over 15 years now. The samson s1000 amp that I bought with it has started to have some issues. I'm wondering what my best options are if I need to replace this. Any suggestions on a good external amp to replace my dying one?
 

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Hi,

I will make a few comments to help you get started. ...
Regards,
Mike
Thanks again for the advice. I ran an initial Audyssey run-through yesterday with only the PB16U connected.
Audyssey had me turn the sub all the way down to -25dB in the pre level-matching at it's position only 2-3 feet away from the microphone. I think you are right that the second sub is probably total overkill for my near-field setup.

Unsurprisingly, the towers were set to "large", and given a crossover of 40Hz when changed to "small".
Subwoofer LPF set to 120Hz. Sub mode is LFE.

Somewhat surprisingly, the ultra center channel also got 40Hz. I might be ok with this as it might help with making dialog easier to understand, but that's just a theory. Ultra bipolar surrounds also got 40Hz.

Prime bookshelf speakers got 60Hz, elevations 80Hz.

I bumped the sub trim up by about 4 dB and it seemed subtle until there was real LFE content - then it becomes very noticeable.

The system seemed surprisingly quieter at, say, -20dB than my previous system using fewer, smaller speakers and an older Denon (X2000). Not sure why that would be.

Does this seem at all reasonable? I'm sure I will be tinkering with it more. I have a UMIK-1 on order.
 

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My SVS sub sb-nsd12 stopped working yesterday. No cone movement can be detected.

Is there an easy way to check if it is dead or my avr is not supplying any sub signal?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

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Hi Everyone,
I've had an SB-3000 for over a year now and love it. I felt i needed some louder low end extension, so i bought a PB-3000 a few weeks ago. I posted almost the same review on the svs site if you've looked at the reviews there.



Any music i could throw at the PB-3000 it could handle. The low frequency extension on certain electronic songs was outstanding. It matches very well with the SB-3000. The PB really out-shined on the low end push when the bass really dropped. Had my mouth open in awe when the bass would drop. Overall, it handles anything i throw at it, even at higRead more about review stating PB-3000 (with an SB-3000) music reviewh volumes. [The PB-3000 is phenomenal for movies as well, but i don't see peoples specific music tastes when reviewing so i thought i'd give some examples]

Yamaha RX-V685
-80Hz crossover
-Front L/R at -1.0dB
-Sub at -3.5dB
-Overall volume: -6 to -1.0dB (varies depending on artist)
-Tone Controls: -2.5dB Treble, +1.5dB Sub Trim
-YPAO off
-2 Channel Stereo Mode for music listening
Klipsch RP 280F Front Right/Front Left
Dell Laptop from '09 running Win 7
Foobar 2000 V1.3.10, Volume at -1.68dB, No EQ applied
PB-3000, Volume at -10dB, Ports open
SB-3000, Volume at -12dB


These songs are very well mastered in my opinion and i can use any of these to demo my setup to friends


Here are 10 songs or so that really blew me away and had me grinning ear to ear when listening:
Get Up by Liquid Stranger off of Nomad Volume 1, WAV PCM 1411kbps
Fuzz by Liquid Stranger off of Nomad Volume 1, WAV PCM 1411kbps
Stop by Liquid Stranger off of Nomad Volume 3, WAV PCM 1411kbps
Shatter by Liquid Stranger, WAV PCM 1411kbps
Dissolve by Liquid Stranger, WAV PCM 1411kbps
Music Is The Drug by Bassnectar off of Unlimted, FLAC 1049 kbps
Nomad by Dirt Monkey off of Rise of the Octopeel, WAV 2116 kbps
Square by FilosofischeStilte off of Secluded Island, WAV 2116 kbps
Browsing by FilosofischeStilte off of Secluded Island, WAV 2116 kbps
Friction by FilosofischeStilte off of Secluded Island, WAV 2116 kbps
Dotes by Um... off of .aiff, WAV 1411 kbps

Each of those songs sounded excellent in their own way. Um... utilities quite a bit of low frequency and when i didn't have both the PB and SB the SB was lacking just a little bit. But not anymore with both the PB and SB 3000. When the bass would drop with certain songs i would get a gust of wind that left me smiling.

I should note that while listening to Mac Millers new album Circles (on cd), either Good News or Everybody, i was getting a glue smell. Which after talking with customer service , i was able to troubleshoot and found that it was excess glue on the amp that was burning off. After thinking about it for awhile, i am glad i got some extra glue. It seems like its very well put together.



I can go into more detail if asked, or when i get a chance to. I wanted to give some detailed data about my set up and specific music choices
 

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Hi guys,

I have dual pb16ultras and was curious what everyone prefers: Standard Mode (all ports open) or Extended mode (1 port plugged)? I only watch movies on this system.

Also, do you guys prefer changing the LPF crossover to something like 80hz and then changing LFE to LPF to the same 80hz in the receiver (cascading crossovers) for movies especially?

So far I am really loving these dual pb16ultras. I found that having them face each other (the drivers) and having them at the middle wall of my room sounds best. I have the phase of each of them at 0 degrees. I shouldn't have to change this if they are roughly the same distance from the listening area right?

Thanks again ! I love SVS subwoofers!
 

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Hi guys,

I have dual pb16ultras and was curious what everyone prefers: Standard Mode (all ports open) or Extended mode (1 port plugged)? I only watch movies on this system.

Also, do you guys prefer changing the LPF crossover to something like 80hz and then changing LFE to LPF to the same 80hz in the receiver (cascading crossovers) for movies especially?

So far I am really loving these dual pb16ultras. I found that having them face each other (the drivers) and having them at the middle wall of my room sounds best. I have the phase of each of them at 0 degrees. I shouldn't have to change this if they are roughly the same distance from the listening area right?

Thanks again ! I love SVS subwoofers!
I tried them all, extended mode goes deep but seems a little low in volume, all ports plugged is great for music but for overall I just run in standard mode.
 

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I tried them all, extended mode goes deep but seems a little low in volume, all ports plugged is great for music but for overall I just run in standard mode.
Great! I'll probably just stick to standard mode because I'm loving it! I was just hoping I wasn't missing something lol. Any idea on the crossover? Cascading crossovers in particular. Or do you just keep LPF off on the sub and do LPF to LFE to 120hz in the receiver? That's how I currently have it.
 

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My SVS sub sb-nsd12 stopped working yesterday. No cone movement can be detected.

Is there an easy way to check if it is dead or my avr is not supplying any sub signal?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Connect a phone or CD player directly to the sub, play some music.
The above is good advice and will rule out the upstream source as a possible culprit.

Please reach out to SVS Customer Service for additional tech support and troubleshooting. We will help you isolate the cause of no sound and correct the problem. Thanks.
 

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Thanks again for the advice. I ran an initial Audyssey run-through yesterday with only the PB16U connected.
Audyssey had me turn the sub all the way down to -25dB in the pre level-matching at it's position only 2-3 feet away from the microphone. I think you are right that the second sub is probably total overkill for my near-field setup.

Unsurprisingly, the towers were set to "large", and given a crossover of 40Hz when changed to "small".
Subwoofer LPF set to 120Hz. Sub mode is LFE.

Somewhat surprisingly, the ultra center channel also got 40Hz. I might be ok with this as it might help with making dialog easier to understand, but that's just a theory. Ultra bipolar surrounds also got 40Hz.

Prime bookshelf speakers got 60Hz, elevations 80Hz.

I bumped the sub trim up by about 4 dB and it seemed subtle until there was real LFE content - then it becomes very noticeable.

The system seemed surprisingly quieter at, say, -20dB than my previous system using fewer, smaller speakers and an older Denon (X2000). Not sure why that would be.

Does this seem at all reasonable? I'm sure I will be tinkering with it more. I have a UMIK-1 on order.
Set all speakers to Small
Set the crossovers as follows:
fronts 60 Hz
center 60 Hz
surrounds (Ultra surround bipole) 60 Hz
rear surrounds (Prime Bookshelf) 60 Hz
Height effects 80 Hz (ok as is)
subwoofer mode LFE and LPP/LFE 120 Hz

Bumping the sub level up 4 dB is normal and fine. Upping the crossovers will also make an obvious difference in sub-output - as the redirected bass from the speakers channels will be increased by half an octave (i.e., going from 40-60 Hz).
 
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I've had my passive svs sub for well over 15 years now. The samson s1000 amp that I bought with it has started to have some issues. I'm wondering what my best options are if I need to replace this. Any suggestions on a good external amp to replace my dying one?
I like Crown or QSC. While the Samson was rated higher, I wouldn't throw a ton of power at a woofer that age - something in the range of 300-400W into 4 ohms is plenty.
 

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Hi guys,

I have dual pb16ultras and was curious what everyone prefers: Standard Mode (all ports open) or Extended mode (1 port plugged)? I only watch movies on this system.

Also, do you guys prefer changing the LPF crossover to something like 80hz and then changing LFE to LPF to the same 80hz in the receiver (cascading crossovers) for movies especially?

So far I am really loving these dual pb16ultras. I found that having them face each other (the drivers) and having them at the middle wall of my room sounds best. I have the phase of each of them at 0 degrees. I shouldn't have to change this if they are roughly the same distance from the listening area right?

Thanks again ! I love SVS subwoofers!
For now, keep it on Standard mode (all ports open) until you have a chance to get used to the sound and familiar with your subs' capabilities and performance. Once you switch to Extended, it will be easier to have a frame of reference to compare to. Normally I select a few movies/scenes that I'm very familiar with, so it makes it easier to do comparisons when I switch settings. For this case, I would suggest a movie from a disc with deeeeeeeep low bass.

The phase, sometimes when they face each other you need to reverse one of them, but if it sounds great then you can leave it. There's no way for us to tell you without you measuring it. There's some guidelines online on how to potentially check with an SPL meter, but even that to me is iffy because your meter can pick up a bigger peak that brings up the total SPL higher, but there could be some big nasty nulls.
 

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I have a pair of older SVS STS-01 towers for my R&L and a SCS-01 center. The specs show that they only go down to about 63Hz. I have a SB-4000 sub on the way, hopefully will be here tomorrow. Any suggestions on where I should set the crossover, should it be the standard 80Hz? Seems like it should be a little higher given that is pretty close to the maximum the speakers can handle, would a crossover at 90Hz or 100Hz be better for these speakers?



I have an Anthem MRX710 so I don't think I get to chose between large or small speakers, I am just allowed to set the crossover if I don't like the default ARC suggests.
 

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Hi guys,

I have dual pb16ultras and was curious what everyone prefers: Standard Mode (all ports open) or Extended mode (1 port plugged)? I only watch movies on this system.

Also, do you guys prefer changing the LPF crossover to something like 80hz and then changing LFE to LPF to the same 80hz in the receiver (cascading crossovers) for movies especially?

So far I am really loving these dual pb16ultras. I found that having them face each other (the drivers) and having them at the middle wall of my room sounds best. I have the phase of each of them at 0 degrees. I shouldn't have to change this if they are roughly the same distance from the listening area right?

Thanks again ! I love SVS subwoofers!
If you get into BEQ (which with these subs you should) then extended is a must. I personally try to BEQ everything I watch.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/2995212-bass-eq-filtered-movies.html

Otherwise most movies don't have a ton of output below 20hz and standard is probably best. BEQ + extended IMO is how you get your moneys worth with these subs.
 

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I like Crown or QSC. While the Samson was rated higher, I wouldn't throw a ton of power at a woofer that age - something in the range of 300-400W into 4 ohms is plenty.
If I'm looking at a crown amp in that power range it seems my options would be either XLi800 with 300w into 4 ohms or XLS1002 with 350w into 4 ohms. I know that one is a class a/b and the other is class d amp. That doesn't mean much to me and I'm not sure if there really would be much difference. I couldn't tell you what the classes of the amp even mean.
 

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Yeah, after I spoke with SVS, they also said that it's most likely an issue with my calibration/AVR settings and not because of the sub itself. It's very easy to tell that it's coming from the sub and not the speakers. I went over to the sub and placed my hand on it, but I knew it was the sub just from sitting at my regular viewing distance. Turn off the sub and the hard thumps during subtle movie noises are gone.

I'm using SVS Prime Towers and Prime Center. SVS support told me those should be fine set to a 60hz crossover, so that's what I did. Of course, with YPAO you have to go do all that manually, since it always sets everything to "Large" when calibrating. But I wouldn't think switching to 80hz would make any difference in regards to that. Those door slams, foot steps, or whatever are still going to be sent to the subwoofer regardless. Plus, I'm always worried about dialogue sounding boomy - which has been a problem I've experienced in the past with deep male voices setting off the subwoofer.

I dunno. YPAO has always been crap - and last time I had my set calibrated (Jeff Meier) did it - the settings he got were absolutely nothing like what YPAO gave me with the exception of the distance measurements - which were fairly close.

I'll experiment a little. SVS said that if I can't get it to a satisfying level, to just turn down the sub volume in 3db increments until it sounds "right" to me - which I may end up having to do until I can get someone out here to get a more in depth calibration and set everything correctly.
If you are hearing those types of effects consistently from the subwoofer, regardless of the speaker size and crossover - that simply means they are being mixed into the LFE channel and not the speaker channels on the soundtrack itself.

I do agree with small/60 Hz for your speakers - it's a good crossover choice which will allow the speakers to play some bass but routes the really deep stuff in those channels to the subwoofer.

YPAO does not EQ the subwoofer channel - so if the subwoofer has a standing wave peak at the listening position, that could be causing some over-emphasis at that frequency which would sound a bit artificial or overblown. Hard to say for sure unless you actually generated an FR sweep of the subwoofer.

You could also try moving the subwoofer around and see if you can find a more accurate sounding location.
 

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So I will be receiving my second PB16 Ultra this coming Wednesday, I can’t wait! But my question is when I run audyssey on my X4500H should I use both of the sub pre outs to EQ them independently, or run them through one sub pre out using a Y adapter? That is how I had my dual subs set up due to the fact that that they weren’t identical subs. But now since they will be identical is it better to run them using both sub pre outs? Hope my questions make sense😬 and thank you guys in advance.
I would use both sub-outs and let XT32 set distance and level for each sub and then it will EQ the combined FR.

The only exception to this would be if you have REW/UMIK-1 and are willing to integrate both subs off the same sub-out using the phase control. You might obtain better results this way over the conventional XT32 dual discrete set-up - but that remains to be proven out. It's simply an option for advanced users you could consider.
 
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So I ordered a PB1000. I'm currently using a cheap Klipsch synergy 12" sub. Should I hook up both and go dual or just use the SVS? Where is the best place for the sub? In the corner or elsewhere? Thanks
If I'm looking at a crown amp in that power range it seems my options would be either XLi800 with 300w into 4 ohms or XLS1002 with 350w into 4 ohms. I know that one is a class a/b and the other is class d amp. That doesn't mean much to me and I'm not sure if there really would be much difference. I couldn't tell you what the classes of the amp even mean.
Both are great choices. The Class D will run cooler and more efficiently and I believe that model has some DSP menu options available too. So I would lean in that direction.
 
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