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Man that looks like a really open floor plan. Good for design, not so good for acoustics, especially LFE :) Sound waves don't care about where arbitrary lines are drawn on a floorplan for where rooms end - they care about where the walls are. If I'm reading this right, your "room" is actually the great room, kitchen, cafe, dining room, foyer, heck even the stairs. That's maybe 7500 cu ft. Are the arches to the DR down to the floor, or just "windows" to the great room? The more wall there the better for acoustics. I'm just not sure any sealed sub can really pressurize that space. They will sound OK, but I don't think you'll feel much unless it's near field, sitting next to your couch. I don't think you'll be wowed by the experience. Just don't buy it until after you move in, so you can try it out and have the 45 day return policy.

Thank you for the reply. I was concerned when we visited the build site again and this was probably the first time I visited after doing some research/looking around for a sub, which is what lead me to posting the floor plan. I was originally planning on sticking the sub in the bottom right corner of the great room so it appears some what "hidden" when you walk into the area, so it would not be considered near field. Those are indeed archways to the dining room. It seems like I might just be better off going with a PB vs SB. I could potentially do dual SB but it goes against my "smaller" footprint focus.
 

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Thanks Mike.

Terry - email SVS CS at [email protected] and indicate you would like to communicate with me. My team will flag the ticket for me in our system and I'll reach out. Thanks.
Morning Ed,

Thank-You kind Sir the E-Mail has been sent.
Please let me know you received it ???

It should come to you as I did use your Full Name, Ed Mullen ..............

Terry Honaker
Ed,

Just checking in buddy to confirm you did receive the E-Mail I sent you ???

Thanks,
Terry Honaker
 

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Pb13 ultra....received the email today about the amp upgrade with app support. Decided to order as it is supposed to make it similar to the pb4000. Figured I would give it a try as I had contemplated going dual at some point. Pleased they are providing a path forward.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I got my upgrade notice too. While I'm seriously thinking about it, I wonder how much I will actually change the settings. Once eq is dialed in, how much do people use the App to change settings? Sure, changing eq settings on the SB Ultra 13 is a major pain, but measure, set, forget. right? What am I really getting for $400 is I'm not changing settings?

Plus my receiver has a 4 band eq for subs between 15Hz and 250Hz
 

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Thank you for the reply. I was concerned when we visited the build site again and this was probably the first time I visited after doing some research/looking around for a sub, which is what lead me to posting the floor plan. I was originally planning on sticking the sub in the bottom right corner of the great room so it appears some what "hidden" when you walk into the area, so it would not be considered near field. Those are indeed archways to the dining room. It seems like I might just be better off going with a PB vs SB. I could potentially do dual SB but it goes against my "smaller" footprint focus.

Hi,

FWIW, this is what I advised in the first response to your question. I believe that you will prefer a ported sub for the type of listening that you will be doing. Porting greatly increases a subwoofer's ability to produce
 

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Thank you for the reply. I was concerned when we visited the build site again and this was probably the first time I visited after doing some research/looking around for a sub, which is what lead me to posting the floor plan. I was originally planning on sticking the sub in the bottom right corner of the great room so it appears some what "hidden" when you walk into the area, so it would not be considered near field. Those are indeed archways to the dining room. It seems like I might just be better off going with a PB vs SB. I could potentially do dual SB but it goes against my "smaller" footprint focus.
Mike always has great advice, so the only thing I'll add is if "footprint" is really an issue, rather than visual size, then a PC may be a better option than PB. Given your situation, I'm not sure one PC2000 will be enough of an upgrade, and they don't make a PC3000, so you'd be looking at a PC4000 or dual PC2000's. Yeah that's getting up there in cost though.

While I don't think sealed would be a good idea in your room, if you have to go that route for some reason the one advantage is they are easy to tuck away under end tables or whatever, so hiding several of them isn't that bad. But do plan on at least 2, and probably the SB3000 or 4000.

One other thought - if the walls aren't in yet, I would recommend pre-wiring for 7.1.4. If you've never experienced 7.1, it really is a step up from 5.1. It is so cool to have things come from directly behind you, or bullets whiz by your ear in a shooter game, that 5.1 can't replicate (even phantom rears). And background music / sounds envelop you and put you in the center of the scene, rather than a forward half-dome. A movie like "Gravity" is just a different experience in 7.1. You don't have a rear wall in your room, so go pretty far back along the side walls, I'd say at least 6 feet behind your MLP. Dolby guide: https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/7.1.4-overhead-speaker-setup-guide/ . Even if your current AVR can't handle it, your next one probably will, so think of it as future proofing. My AVR can do either 5.2.2 with phantom rears or 7.2, and I tried both, and actually prefer 7.2 over 5.2.2.
 
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I didn't mean to sound ungrateful as I do appreciate that you replied

personally I like the display but I do agree instead of a black display when turned Off a small discrete led with red for standby green for active would let users know the sub was powered and working

as for the display I tried what you suggested but I thought you meant toggle it on and off with the app and then the timer will work when you probably meant what @jl82 shows in his post
I have now done that and it works

going back to the question of both subs not being on Auto from the factory well I was sure that's what I read it should be but when setting the display I now notice that the app says ON is default
whether its brain freeze or old age its all good now

certainly trivial compared to a dead sub after just 10 days so good luck
I didn’t do a very good job of explaining the process for the timeout feature. Should have included a screenshot like the other poster did.

I had to toggle the power off for a minute then back on for timeout to work constantly for some reason. Technology is great when it’s working. Helps me work on my profanity skills when it isn’t.

Folks at SVS have been absolutely awesome throughout my my buying experience. I can’t think of another company that has been more helpful over my 60+ years on earth.
 

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Mike always has great advice, so the only thing I'll add is if "footprint" is really an issue, rather than visual size, then a PC may be a better option than PB. Given your situation, I'm not sure one PC2000 will be enough of an upgrade, and they don't make a PC3000, so you'd be looking at a PC4000 or dual PC2000's. Yeah that's getting up there in cost though.

While I don't think sealed would be a good idea in your room, if you have to go that route for some reason the one advantage is they are easy to tuck away under end tables or whatever, so hiding several of them isn't that bad. But do plan on at least 2, and probably the SB3000 or 4000.

One other thought - if the walls aren't in yet, I would recommend pre-wiring for 7.1.4. If you've never experienced 7.1, it really is a step up from 5.1. It is so cool to have things come from directly behind you, or bullets whiz by your ear in a shooter game, that 5.1 can't replicate (even phantom rears). And background music / sounds envelop you and put you in the center of the scene, rather than a forward half-dome. A movie like "Gravity" is just a different experience in 7.1. You don't have a rear wall in your room, so go pretty far back along the side walls, I'd say at least 6 feet behind your MLP. Dolby guide: https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/7.1.4-overhead-speaker-setup-guide/ . Even if your current AVR can't handle it, your next one probably will, so think of it as future proofing. My AVR can do either 5.2.2 with phantom rears or 7.2.1, and I tried both, and actually prefer 7.2.1 over 5.2.2.

Looks like I really need to start considering a PB, seems to be the advice of everyone here albeit dual SB....In which I'll probably lean towards a PB 4000 as if I go PB it will certainly only be one.

It is too late to wire up 7.1.x, I was considering it at first but like you said there is no rear wall and would be difficult for me to persuade for more speakers (WAF). I was originally going to put surrounds in the walls however one side was the archway post which didn't have enough space in it and the other was the perimeter wall, again not enough depth. So I've got my surrounds mounted there.

Again, thanks for the info.
 

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Ed Mullen,

I need to contact you via E-Mail or PM on this site or even a quick cellphone call.
I don't see anyway to do that when I looked at your profile.

Terry Honaker
@Ed Mullen may work a little faster. :)
Thanks Mike.

Terry - email SVS CS at [email protected] and indicate you would like to communicate with me. My team will flag the ticket for me in our system and I'll reach out. Thanks.
Morning Ed,

Thank-You kind Sir the E-Mail has been sent.
Please let me know you receive it ???

It should come to you as I did use your Full Name, Ed Mullen ..............

Terry Honaker
Ed,

Just checking in buddy to confirm you did receive the E-Mail I sent you ???

Thanks,
Terry Honaker
Ed Mullen,

I have now officially made the change from the current 4 SVS PB-4000 Subs to the now (Ordered) 4 SVS PB-16 ULTRA Subwoofers.
If interested Left Click on the Link below.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/2995466-tigerhonaker-s-home-theater-phase-1of-being-up-dated-august-2018-a-22.html#post59873576


Looking forward to hearing from you ........ Kind-Sir. :D :) :D

Terry Honaker
 

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I am debating whether to save $200 a copy and get two of the Closeout SVS PC-2000 (Non-Pro, i.e. No App Control) Subwoofers, or go with the New SVS PC-2000 Pros.

Have the Pros improved beyond the App?

https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-...ant=9559987395

What do you think?
 

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Ed,

Just checking in buddy to confirm you did receive the E-Mail I sent you ???

Thanks,
Terry Honaker
Hi Terry -

Sorry - I don't see anything in our CS inbox under your last name. I checked in our Shopping Cart and don't see anything under Honaker.

What email address did you send it from - I can search for that. Also, make sure you sent it to [email protected]. Thanks.
 

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Ed Mullen,

I have now officially made the change from the current 4 SVS PB-4000 Subs to the now (Ordered) 4 SVS PB-16 ULTRA Subwoofers.
If interested Left Click on the Link below.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-general-home-theater-media-game-rooms/2995466-tigerhonaker-s-home-theater-phase-1of-being-up-dated-august-2018-a-22.html#post59873576


Looking forward to hearing from you ........ Kind-Sir. :D :) :D

Terry Honaker
Hi Terry -

Congrats on the upgrade! We can assist you with set-up and calibration as needed - the process will be very similar to your PB-4000s.
 
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Hi Terry -

Sorry - I don't see anything in our CS inbox under your last name. I checked in our Shopping Cart and don't see anything under Honaker.

What email address did you send it from - I can search for that. Also, make sure you sent it to [email protected]. Thanks.
I'll send again .........

Hi Terry -

Congrats on the upgrade! We can assist you with set-up and calibration as needed - the process will be very similar to your PB-4000s.
Thank-You Ed M. :)

Terry

Ed, below is the actual content of the E-Mail I just now sent you:

Attention Ed Mullen, I need your Help I'm tigerhonaker over on the AVS Internet site.

Ed,

I need all the little feet that come under the SVS PB-4000 Subwoofer.
I have 4 of the PB-4000 Subs so I need 24 Feet.
When I purchased the 4 PB-4000 Subs I also purchased the SVS Isolation Packs for them.
The techs installed the SVS Isolation Soft Feet they did NOT save the Feet that came under the 4-PB-4000 subs.
I just Up-Dated Saturday from the 4 PB-4000 to 4 SVS PB-16 ULTRA’s.

Your assistance would be Greatly Appreciated as I don’t really know how to get the Stock-Feet that come under the SVS PB-4000 Subs.
I need those 24 Stock-Feet ASAP …………..

Terry Honaker
Address here is Not Shown:
The above is the Exact E-Mail I'm now sending you Ed M.

Terry Honaker
 

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Hi Terry -

Sorry - I don't see anything in our CS inbox under your last name. I checked in our Shopping Cart and don't see anything under Honaker.

What email address did you send it from - I can search for that. Also, make sure you sent it to [email protected]. Thanks.
Ed,

I just received "Confirmation" that they did receive the last E-Mail.
I also Replied to that "Confirmation" E-Mail and ask again that my E-Mail went to ED MULLEN.

Terry

Attention Ed M,

Your support request (65599) has been received and is being reviewed by our Customer Service staff.

To add additional comments, reply to this email.



.
 

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So I have received my 2 x SVS SB16 Ultra's and when getting familiar with using the app
I have found that Standby on both of them is set to ON
according to the manual the default should be Auto so I am curious as to why that could be

after checking the manual my second question is that again on both subs the display is set to the 10 sec (Default) but nowhere does it explain what that actually does?
I assumed it would mean that the display turns Off after 10 seconds but so far that has not happened on any of the 2 subs
Any suggestions?
well turning off the display using the app works but it didn't do anything to help with initiating the 30 sec default

with a single sub I would agree you would hear if it was powered on but when using duals the display is the only indication that both the subs are is powered up
we can only work with what we have got, not what we would like
for what you / we would like there is always the cheaper DIY option

that aside it doesn't answer my original questions
I didn't mean to sound ungrateful as I do appreciate that you replied

personally I like the display but I do agree instead of a black display when turned Off a small discrete led with red for standby green for active would let users know the sub was powered and working

as for the display I tried what you suggested but I thought you meant toggle it on and off with the app and then the timer will work when you probably meant what @jl82 shows in his post
I have now done that and it works

going back to the question of both subs not being on Auto from the factory well I was sure that's what I read it should be but when setting the display I now notice that the app says ON is default
whether its brain freeze or old age its all good now

certainly trivial compared to a dead sub after just 10 days so good luck
Thanks
well I could swear that the default was Auto but while resolving the display timer I noticed that the app says ON is the default so its all good now
Glad you got this resolved. The power mode and the display setting function independently. The most common settings are display off, time-out 10 seconds and auto.

With this combination, the display will illuminate when you are using the app and will then go dark after 10 seconds.

When the amp drops into standby, the display will briefly illuminate and say 'goodbye'. When it wakes up from standby, the display will illuminate and show the last menu location and then it will time-out and go dark again.
 
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Does the SB-3000 hit noticeably harder than the SB-2000? I don't necessarily need deeper response than the 2000 but I'd like a bit more impact in effects like a cannon shot as opposed to wanting deeper earthquake rumble.
Yes, the SB-3000 has twice the dynamic output of the SB-2000 in the 40-80 Hz octave with subjectively more punch/impact at higher playback levels.
 
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Hello, I am new to this forum and trying to get some advice.

I just ordered two SB2000 pro's for a dedicated stereo system. I am trying to figure out what is the best way to hook the subs up to my system. I have been using a single REL Storm III hooked up from the high inputs to my McIntosh MC-60 mono blocks. The SB2000 pros only have one set of inputs which are RCA's. My preamp has two sets of outputs, one set goes to the mono blocks. I have downloaded the manual and it shows for two channel system to use a splitter at the preamp and run one RCA to sub and the other to amp. I also talked with someone from SVS on the phone to ask the best way to connect everything up. Not really quite sure he understood. he said refer to the manual. So if I have two outs on my preamp, I see no reason why I need a splitter at preamp. Also the manual does not show where to or how to hook up on the sub side. Do I plug it in to the LFE which is Right channel? Do I plug into left channel since I do not need LFE? or do I use a splitter and plug it into both? Or is there a better way? Ideally the signal going into the subs would probably be best coming from my amps, but I decided the convenience of the app was more important than a slight loss of sound quality if any.

I tried looking this up here and in the two channel forum first. Sorry if the answer has already been posted and I somehow missed it. Thanks in advance for any help.
Connect one set of pre-outs to your loudspeaker amp.

Connect the other set of pre-outs to your SB-2000 Pros - naturally left side pre-out to the left side sub, and right side pre-out to the right side sub.

It doesn't matter which input you use at the subwoofer - they are electrically identical. You don't need a splitter at the subwoofers.

Set the low pass frequency and slope on the SB-2000 Pros to blend with your speakers - we can advise you on a good starting point based on the brand/model loudspeaker in your system. There is no 'right or wrong' low pass setting - just trust your ears and tweak as needed from the starting point.

Then adjust the volume of the SB-2000 Pros to level match with your loudspeakers.
 

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Hey guys,

After 15 years, it is finally time to upgrade from my trusty PB-10 NSD that has served me well over the years. I'm currently debating between the PB-2000 Pro and the SB-3000. My living room is about 22’ x 10’ with 8ft ceilings, but one side is completely open to a dining room and kitchen. My use is 80/20 HT/music, and I’m looking for something more in the way of oomph and SQ than what I have now. Size is not a deal killer, but the form factor of SB-3000 is an attractive feature. I like the additional power in that amp, but I’m concerned I might be disappointed by a perceived lack of response in the sub 30Hz range if I go with a sealed model. My budget tops out at $1000 for the sub, so the PB-3000 and above are really out of reach for me. I will be getting an all new 5.1 system with this upgrade with speakers from Ascend and a modern Denon receiver.

I’ve searched for direct comparisons of these two models, but no luck. Can anyone offer some insight? They are very close in price. Thanks in advance!
Based on your room size and system usage, I recommend the PB-2000 Pro for your application. The larger ported cabinet will allow it to fill and pressurize that room nicely on LFE in the 18-36 Hz octave, and it will be a great upgrade in all respects (SQ, deep extension, overall performance and user control/connectivity) over your PB10-NSD.
 

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Connect one set of pre-outs to your loudspeaker amp.

Connect the other set of pre-outs to your SB-2000 Pros - naturally left side pre-out to the left side sub, and right side pre-out to the right side sub.

It doesn't matter which input you use at the subwoofer - they are electrically identical. You don't need a splitter at the subwoofers.

Set the low pass frequency and slope on the SB-2000 Pros to blend with your speakers - we can advise you on a good starting point based on the brand/model loudspeaker in your system. There is no 'right or wrong' low pass setting - just trust your ears and tweak as needed from the starting point.

Then adjust the volume of the SB-2000 Pros to level match with your loudspeakers.


Thank you Ed!

This is exactly what I needed. Kind of figure, but wanted to make sure so I have the right cabling. They should be here Wednesday....getting excited.
 

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