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Not sure if this is the right thread to post this, but I just wanted to say that I ordered my first ever SVS subwoofer today. This will be my first “real” home theater subwoofer. The only other one I’ve had is a cheap Boston Acoustics 8” subwoofer (that I’m still currently using).

I just came across a PB12-NSD open box for a great deal, and they’re an authorized SVS retailer (IQ home entertainment, which I see listed on the SVS site) and told me it still comes with the full 5 year warranty. I wasn’t actually planning on upgrading my subwoofer quite yet. I had just started researching them. But they only had this one left and the deal just seemed too good to pass up (especially for my planned price range) and I’d done enough research to know that I couldn’t go wrong with an SVS subwoofer.

I’m very excited, to say the least!
 

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What are you running for an AV processor?
I have a Denon AVR-X4500H 9.2 Reciever (with Full Pre-Amp Outputs) 125 Watts Per Channel X 9 Channels as well as a Stereo Power Amp X 2 Channels all driving a 7.X.4 Atmos System:

(2) L+R FRONT Definitive Technology BP9080 Full Range Tower with a 455 Watt Amp driving a 12 inch Subwoofer and (2) 12 inch Passive Radiators
(1) CENTER Definitive Technology CS9080 Full Range Center Speaker with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 8 inch Subwoofer and a 10 Inch Passive Radiator
(2) L+R SURROUND Definitive Technology BP9060 Full Range Towers with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 10 inch Subwoofer and (2) 10 inch Passive Radiators
(2) SURROUND BACK Definitive Technology SR9080 Bi-Polar Speakers

All of the Subwoofer Output above serves as my LFE.

I am interest in additional extended LFE which is why I am looking at the SVS 12 inch Vertical PC-2000 or PC-2000 - Pro Subwoofer(s).

Is the App Control the main difference between the PC-2000 and PC-2000 - Pro ?
 

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I have a Denon AVR-X4500H 9.2 Reciever (with Full Pre-Amp Outputs) 125 Watts Per Channel X 9 Channels as well as a Stereo Power Amp X 2 Channels all driving a 7.X.4 Atmos System:

(2) L+R FRONT Definitive Technology BP9080 Full Range Tower with a 455 Watt Amp driving a 12 inch Subwoofer and (2) 12 inch Passive Radiators
(1) CENTER Definitive Technology CS9080 Full Range Center Speaker with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 8 inch Subwoofer and a 10 Inch Passive Radiator
(2) L+R SURROUND Definitive Technology BP9060 Full Range Towers with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 10 inch Subwoofer and (2) 10 inch Passive Radiators
(2) SURROUND BACK Definitive Technology SR9080 Bi-Polar Speakers

All of the Subwoofer Output above serves as my LFE.

I am interest in additional extended LFE which is why I am looking at the SVS 12 inch Vertical PC-2000 or PC-2000 - Pro Subwoofer(s).

Is the App Control the main difference between the PC-2000 and PC-2000 - Pro ?
The Pro has higher dynamic output, lower distortion, enhanced and expanded menu options and the subwoofer control smart phone app.

The reason I asked about the AV processor is to determine if it EQ's the subwoofer channel (which yours does). So that would be at least one factor to consider when deciding between the Pro and the 2000 - because the Pro comes with three PEQs which are very handy if your AV processor doesn't EQ the subwoofer.
 

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The Pro has higher dynamic output, lower distortion, enhanced and expanded menu options and the subwoofer control smart phone app.

The reason I asked about the AV processor is to determine if it EQ's the subwoofer channel (which yours does). So that would be at least one factor to consider when deciding between the Pro and the 2000 - because the Pro comes with three PEQs which are very handy if your AV processor doesn't EQ the subwoofer.
Thanks Ed.

How would you compare the PC-2000 Pro and the PB-2000 Pro Subwoofers if floor space is available for either?
 

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Thanks Ed.

How would you compare the PC-2000 Pro and the PB-2000 Pro Subwoofers if floor space is available for either?
They have very similar performance and sound quality. The PC-2000 Pro is a good choice when you want the performance of the PB-2000 Pro but simply don't have the floor space.

If floor space is not an issue - then it's really just form factor preference and visual decor integration.
 

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Glad you got this resolved. The power mode and the display setting function independently. The most common settings are display off, time-out 10 seconds and auto.

With this combination, the display will illuminate when you are using the app and will then go dark after 10 seconds.

When the amp drops into standby, the display will briefly illuminate and say 'goodbye'. When it wakes up from standby, the display will illuminate and show the last menu location and then it will time-out and go dark again.
Hi Ed thanks for that info I will set it up as suggested
 

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They have very similar performance and sound quality. The PC-2000 Pro is a good choice when you want the performance of the PB-2000 Pro but simply don't have the floor space.

If floor space is not an issue - then it's really just form factor preference and visual decor integration.
Ed,


I have a 16'X16' Media Room with 22' Vaulted Ceilings.

What would you say would dictate being (A) happy with (1) one PC-2000 Pro, or, (A) going for (2) two?

Also what is the optimum placement of one/two Subwoofer(s) in my room with the following AVR and Speakers?


I have a Denon AVR-X4500H 9.2 Reciever (with Full Pre-Amp Outputs) 125 Watts Per Channel X 9 Channels as well as a Stereo Power Amp X 2 Channels all driving a 7.X.4 Atmos System:

(2) L+R FRONT Definitive Technology BP9080 Full Range Tower with a 455 Watt Amp driving a 12 inch Subwoofer and (2) 12 inch Passive Radiators
(1) CENTER Definitive Technology CS9080 Full Range Center Speaker with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 8 inch Subwoofer and a 10 Inch Passive Radiator
(2) L+R SURROUND Definitive Technology BP9060 Full Range Towers with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 10 inch Subwoofer and (2) 10 inch Passive Radiators
(2) SURROUND BACK Definitive Technology SR9080 Bi-Polar Speakers

All of the Subwoofer Output above serves as my LFE.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Ed,


I have a 16'X16' Media Room with 22' Vaulted Ceilings.

What would you say would dictate being (A) happy with (1) one PC-2000 Pro, or, (A) going for (2) two?

Also what is the optimum placement of one/two Subwoofer(s) in my room with the following AVR and Speakers?


I have a Denon AVR-X4500H 9.2 Reciever (with Full Pre-Amp Outputs) 125 Watts Per Channel X 9 Channels as well as a Stereo Power Amp X 2 Channels all driving a 7.X.4 Atmos System:

(2) L+R FRONT Definitive Technology BP9080 Full Range Tower with a 455 Watt Amp driving a 12 inch Subwoofer and (2) 12 inch Passive Radiators
(1) CENTER Definitive Technology CS9080 Full Range Center Speaker with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 8 inch Subwoofer and a 10 Inch Passive Radiator
(2) L+R SURROUND Definitive Technology BP9060 Full Range Towers with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 10 inch Subwoofer and (2) 10 inch Passive Radiators
(2) SURROUND BACK Definitive Technology SR9080 Bi-Polar Speakers

All of the Subwoofer Output above serves as my LFE.

Thanks in advance.
If it's an option within your budget and space, always dual :)

I have a very similar setup as you but with dual PB4000's (although a bigger room). Dual subwoofers would allow you to get smoother combined response (and more SPL) and more flexibility to integrate your bass managed speakers.
 

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If it's an option within your budget and space, always dual :)

I have a very similar setup as you but with dual PB4000's (although a bigger room). Dual subwoofers would allow you to get smoother combined response (and more SPL) and more flexibility to integrate your bass managed speakers.
Thanks for the input.
 
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Pulled the trigger on the PB-13 amp upgrade. I have the original 750watt Bash Amp....so for $400 to move up to this 1200 watt beast with better DSP just made sense.

I also don't have the most modern receiver right now, so having the ability to use the app to flatten my curve a bit more will really help!

Plus who knows...maybe I will build a sub and use the old Bash Amp in it. 😁
 

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Ed,


I have a 16'X16' Media Room with 22' Vaulted Ceilings.

What would you say would dictate being (A) happy with (1) one PC-2000 Pro, or, (A) going for (2) two?

Also what is the optimum placement of one/two Subwoofer(s) in my room with the following AVR and Speakers?


I have a Denon AVR-X4500H 9.2 Reciever (with Full Pre-Amp Outputs) 125 Watts Per Channel X 9 Channels as well as a Stereo Power Amp X 2 Channels all driving a 7.X.4 Atmos System:

(2) L+R FRONT Definitive Technology BP9080 Full Range Tower with a 455 Watt Amp driving a 12 inch Subwoofer and (2) 12 inch Passive Radiators
(1) CENTER Definitive Technology CS9080 Full Range Center Speaker with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 8 inch Subwoofer and a 10 Inch Passive Radiator
(2) L+R SURROUND Definitive Technology BP9060 Full Range Towers with a 300 Watt Amp driving an 10 inch Subwoofer and (2) 10 inch Passive Radiators
(2) SURROUND BACK Definitive Technology SR9080 Bi-Polar Speakers

All of the Subwoofer Output above serves as my LFE.

Thanks in advance.
Square rooms are notorious for nulls at the listening position - so I recommend duals. If possible try opposite diagonal corners. If that isn't possible, midpoint of the side walls works well too. If that isn't possible both up front will not address front/rear standing wave null, so I recommend testing with REW and a UMIK-1 to see if the primarily listening position has a bad nulls and then moving it accordingly.

While some of your speakers do have powered woofers, they should still be set to Small which allows you to assign a crossover to those channels. The crossover can be deeper (say 40 Hz or 60 Hz) to reflect the bass extension/output of your speakers - but at some frequency the subwoofers will simply do a better job than the speakers, so don't run any of them on full-range.

The only exception might be the fronts where you could try Large with double bass (LFE+Mains) enabled and then set the double bass low pass (shown as a crossover for the fronts after you enable double bass) to 40 Hz or 60 Hz.
 

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Square rooms are notorious for nulls at the listening position - so I recommend duals. If possible try opposite diagonal corners. If that isn't possible, midpoint of the side walls works well too. If that isn't possible both up front will not address front/rear standing wave null, so I recommend testing with REW and a UMIK-1 to see if the primarily listening position has a bad nulls and then moving it accordingly.

While some of your speakers do have powered woofers, they should still be set to Small which allows you to assign a crossover to those channels. The crossover can be deeper (say 40 Hz or 60 Hz) to reflect the bass extension/output of your speakers - but at some frequency the subwoofers will simply do a better job than the speakers, so don't run any of them on full-range.

The only exception might be the fronts where you could try Large with double bass (LFE+Mains) enabled and then set the double bass low pass (shown as a crossover for the fronts after you enable double bass) to 40 Hz or 60 Hz.
Ed,

Thank you for your thoughtfull well researched response to my situation.

I re-measured, and my room is cloer to 17' X 18' with the listening position on a 1' riser.

If I were to place (2) subs, both up front to benefit a stereo sound stage for music, should they be placed outside the Front L & R Speakers or inside them? Would such placement be to detrement of Movie listening when compared to Cross Corner Placement?

Lastly, if I were to place (2) subs, both up front, would the PB-2000 Pro be a better choice than the PC-2000 Pro's?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
 

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Ed,

Thank you for your thoughtfull well researched response to my situation.

I re-measured, and my room is cloer to 17' X 18' with the listening position on a 1' riser.

If I were to place (2) subs, both up front to benefit a stereo sound stage for music, should they be placed outside the Front L & R Speakers or inside them? Would such placement be to detrement of Movie listening when compared to Cross Corner Placement?

Lastly, if I were to place (2) subs, both up front, would the PB-2000 Pro be a better choice than the PC-2000 Pro's?

Thanks in advance for your reply.
I recommend staying flexible and trying both sub locations on the front stage. One will typically sound/perform better than the other. If you want to remove the guesswork you can get REW software and a UMIK-1 mic and measure the sub response in both locations and pick the best one.

You also use REW to determine if you have a large null at the listening position, which might be better addressed with a different sub placement.

There really isn't a performance difference between the PB-2000 Pro and the PC-2000 Pro - so choose the model which best fits into your decor, available floor space and has the form factor you personally prefer.
 

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I recommend staying flexible and trying both sub locations on the front stage. One will typically sound/perform better than the other. If you want to remove the guesswork you can get REW software and a UMIK-1 mic and measure the sub response in both locations and pick the best one.

You also use REW to determine if you have a large null at the listening position, which might be better addressed with a different sub placement.

There really isn't a performance difference between the PB-2000 Pro and the PC-2000 Pro - so choose the model which best fits into your decor, available floor space and has the form factor you personally prefer.
I just bought the UMIK-1 mic to see what my system is doing now and in anticipation of bringing in Dual Subs.
 

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So I've experimented a bit with dualing my new PB16 Ultra with my PB2000 Pro. I know most people speak against dualing subs of different size but from the looks of my rew measurements the port tune seems to be very similar when both are in standard mode.

The PB16 is placed near my couch which is the position that gives the best average frequency response in my problematic (square) room. It's a mid side wall position but with some distance to the wall. This position also produces nice tactile response. :)

The PB2000 Pro is placed on the left side of the front wall. This position has a good low-end and puts a bit of pressure into my ears which I like. It has a huge null in the 50hz range though but this null is present at almost all locations in my square room so there isn't really anything I can an do about that.

I've aligned them with phase controls after which I'm getting a plus over almost the whole frequency range. My AVR does support dual subs but I don't like the results so I've just daisy chained them.

This is what the frequency response looks like after audyssey and some PEQ tweaks:


What I'm unsure about is what to do with the sub gain. With two identical subs you would just gain match them but since the PB16 has probably like 8-10db higher max output than the PB2000 I was wondering if I should still gain match them or adjust the PB2000 to like 8-10 db less so they max out at the same time? :confused:

For this first try I've set the PB2000 Pro 6db lower.
 

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I got the email about the 13 Ultra series amp upgrade and I want the blue-tooth control so I went for it.

The swap was incredibly easy on my PB13 Ultra. Images attached.

The first thing I noticed was the the bass was not as punchy anymore - Not sure why. Even at 0dB in the SVS app, and -5dB on the AVR (Denon X3400H) it was fairly low - For reference, the subwoofer was set to -15db on the older sledge amp. I was able to get it sounding louder by setting the AVR trim to 0, and then the shotgun scene in John Wick 3 and the intro to Overlord sounded ok. Ill be running Audyssey XT32 soon once my new center speaker comes in(Going from Klipsch R-25C to KEF R2C) and then do a full evaluation.
 

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Hi,
I'm proud to have a PB-4000 subwoofer.
But something puzzle me about the "Present" setting.
Can somebody tell me if the "Presents" (Movies, music, etc.) are so ready set or calibrated from factory...? Or they're references only to be calibrate by the owner?
Eddy
 

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Hi,
I'm proud to have a PB-4000 subwoofer.
But something puzzle me about the "Present" setting.
Can somebody tell me if the "Presents" (Movies, music, etc.) are so ready set or calibrated from factory...? Or they're references only to be calibrate by the owner?
Eddy
The "music" preset comes with a different PEQ setting, but they're technically containers that you can use to save any settings to each. They are just named for you convenience...
 
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So I've experimented a bit with dualing my new PB16 Ultra with my PB2000 Pro. I know most people speak against dualing subs of different size but from the looks of my rew measurements the port tune seems to be very similar when both are in standard mode.

The PB16 is placed near my couch which is the position that gives the best average frequency response in my problematic (square) room. It's a mid side wall position but with some distance to the wall. This position also produces nice tactile response. :)

The PB2000 Pro is placed on the left side of the front wall. This position has a good low-end and puts a bit of pressure into my ears which I like. It has a huge null in the 50hz range though but this null is present at almost all locations in my square room so there isn't really anything I can an do about that.

I've aligned them with phase controls after which I'm getting a plus over almost the whole frequency range. My AVR does support dual subs but I don't like the results so I've just daisy chained them.

This is what the frequency response looks like after audyssey and some PEQ tweaks:


What I'm unsure about is what to do with the sub gain. With two identical subs you would just gain match them but since the PB16 has probably like 8-10db higher max output than the PB2000 I was wondering if I should still gain match them or adjust the PB2000 to like 8-10 db less so they max out at the same time? :confused:

For this first try I've set the PB2000 Pro 6db lower.

Hi,

Personally, I wouldn't try to gain-match two subs with such dissimilar outputs. I would just level-match them, prior to Y-connecting them. What you are showing looks like a good frequency response, with no cancellation at all. So, that part worked well. But, I believe that the combined frequency response will change as you go up in volume.

If I were doing this, I would start with a FR for the PB16, in both Standard and Extended modes, to see what the PB16 looks like in-room. That will give you an idea of what you might gain or give up when you combine it with the PB2000 Pro. Then, I would do the same thing for the PB2000 Pro, just for comparison purposes. And, I might do compression tests for both subs independently. Finally, I would combine them, as you have done. But, now I would also do a compression test, to see how the FR changes as the volume increases. I think you will find that the PB2000 Pro runs out of gas, in the lower frequencies, much sooner than the PB16 does.

I believe that you would probably get better results from a pair of PB3000's than you will from the combination of a PB16 and a PB2000 Pro. It will be hard to make a PB2000 Pro play like a PB16, at higher volume levels, even when you restrict the PB16 to the Standard 20Hz port tune. And, if you do that, you won't get the benefit of the
 

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So I've experimented a bit with dualing my new PB16 Ultra with my PB2000 Pro. I know most people speak against dualing subs of different size but from the looks of my rew measurements the port tune seems to be very similar when both are in standard mode.

The PB16 is placed near my couch which is the position that gives the best average frequency response in my problematic (square) room. It's a mid side wall position but with some distance to the wall. This position also produces nice tactile response. :)

The PB2000 Pro is placed on the left side of the front wall. This position has a good low-end and puts a bit of pressure into my ears which I like. It has a huge null in the 50hz range though but this null is present at almost all locations in my square room so there isn't really anything I can an do about that.

I've aligned them with phase controls after which I'm getting a plus over almost the whole frequency range. My AVR does support dual subs but I don't like the results so I've just daisy chained them.

This is what the frequency response looks like after audyssey and some PEQ tweaks:


What I'm unsure about is what to do with the sub gain. With two identical subs you would just gain match them but since the PB16 has probably like 8-10db higher max output than the PB2000 I was wondering if I should still gain match them or adjust the PB2000 to like 8-10 db less so they max out at the same time? :confused:

For this first try I've set the PB2000 Pro 6db lower.
I think you are going to end up wanting to sell the 2000 Pro and save up for a 2nd PB16. Or do like Mike said and sell everything for dual PB3000s. However I got the upgrade bug and in my 6k cu foot room upgrading from dual 3000s to dual 16s in extended mode has sated my thirst of what am I missing.
 
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