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SVS Sledge STA-1000D

Is there an internal switch/jumper to convert the SVS Sledge STA-1000D from 110v to 220v ?
 

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Hi,

Personally, I wouldn't try to gain-match two subs with such dissimilar outputs. I would just level-match them, prior to Y-connecting them. What you are showing looks like a good frequency response, with no cancellation at all. So, that part worked well. But, I believe that the combined frequency response will change as you go up in volume.

If I were doing this, I would start with a FR for the PB16, in both Standard and Extended modes, to see what the PB16 looks like in-room. That will give you an idea of what you might gain or give up when you combine it with the PB2000 Pro. Then, I would do the same thing for the PB2000 Pro, just for comparison purposes. And, I might do compression tests for both subs independently. Finally, I would combine them, as you have done. But, now I would also do a compression test, to see how the FR changes as the volume increases. I think you will find that the PB2000 Pro runs out of gas, in the lower frequencies, much sooner than the PB16 does.

I believe that you would probably get better results from a pair of PB3000's than you will from the combination of a PB16 and a PB2000 Pro. It will be hard to make a PB2000 Pro play like a PB16, at higher volume levels, even when you restrict the PB16 to the Standard 20Hz port tune. And, if you do that, you won't get the benefit of the
 

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Hi,
I'm proud to have a PB-4000 subwoofer.
But something puzzle me about the "Present" setting.
Can somebody tell me if the "Presents" (Movies, music, etc.) are so ready set or calibrated from factory...? Or they're references only to be calibrate by the owner?
Eddy
The factory presets are just placeholders - a starting point for the owner to build out a customized preset.

The music preset does have two PEQs enabled for a mid-bass bump - but they can be disabled if you want.

The default volume for all three presets is -10 - but you can change that to whatever you want and then re-save the preset.

A preset is defined by all menu options that are enabled (including volume). So once you get the subwoofer set-up the way you want - you can save a preset as follows:


  • hit the orange up-arrow at the bottom of the app screen
  • then hit save to preset
  • then select the preset you want
  • then hit save
Note, creating and saving a preset is not the same as loading a preset. Once you have created and saved all of your presets, you can load the one you want from the preset window on the home page of the app.

Also note that if you change the volume after you load a preset, it will suddenly say preset none - but any other menu functions associated with that preset (like a low pass or a PEQ) will still be enabled.
 

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So I've experimented a bit with dualing my new PB16 Ultra with my PB2000 Pro. I know most people speak against dualing subs of different size but from the looks of my rew measurements the port tune seems to be very similar when both are in standard mode.

The PB16 is placed near my couch which is the position that gives the best average frequency response in my problematic (square) room. It's a mid side wall position but with some distance to the wall. This position also produces nice tactile response. :)

The PB2000 Pro is placed on the left side of the front wall. This position has a good low-end and puts a bit of pressure into my ears which I like. It has a huge null in the 50hz range though but this null is present at almost all locations in my square room so there isn't really anything I can an do about that.

I've aligned them with phase controls after which I'm getting a plus over almost the whole frequency range. My AVR does support dual subs but I don't like the results so I've just daisy chained them.

This is what the frequency response looks like after audyssey and some PEQ tweaks:


What I'm unsure about is what to do with the sub gain. With two identical subs you would just gain match them but since the PB16 has probably like 8-10db higher max output than the PB2000 I was wondering if I should still gain match them or adjust the PB2000 to like 8-10 db less so they max out at the same time? :confused:

For this first try I've set the PB2000 Pro 6db lower.
Hi,

Personally, I wouldn't try to gain-match two subs with such dissimilar outputs. I would just level-match them, prior to Y-connecting them. What you are showing looks like a good frequency response, with no cancellation at all. So, that part worked well. But, I believe that the combined frequency response will change as you go up in volume.

If I were doing this, I would start with a FR for the PB16, in both Standard and Extended modes, to see what the PB16 looks like in-room. That will give you an idea of what you might gain or give up when you combine it with the PB2000 Pro. Then, I would do the same thing for the PB2000 Pro, just for comparison purposes. And, I might do compression tests for both subs independently. Finally, I would combine them, as you have done. But, now I would also do a compression test, to see how the FR changes as the volume increases. I think you will find that the PB2000 Pro runs out of gas, in the lower frequencies, much sooner than the PB16 does.

I believe that you would probably get better results from a pair of PB3000's than you will from the combination of a PB16 and a PB2000 Pro. It will be hard to make a PB2000 Pro play like a PB16, at higher volume levels, even when you restrict the PB16 to the Standard 20Hz port tune. And, if you do that, you won't get the benefit of the
 

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I assume compression test means doing frequency sweeps while continuously increasing the volume until max output is reached?
While I didn't do that (yet), at least I measured max SPL of the PB16 single and combined with the PB2000.

Obviously it's not flat anymore at this volume level but at least the PB2000 seems to help somewhat. When I measured this I was only interested in the low-end so I stopped at 40Hz. Like I said previously, the place where the PB2000 is has a strong low-end and the PB16's place has the best average frequency response in my room.




I also did this with extended mode but only with the single PB16 and what I found really strange is that it has a higher output when I open the door, which basically is the only opening my room has.


I always thought sealed rooms produced more room gain than open ones. :confused:

Next time I have the house for my own I will run some more tests. Like the compression tests for both subs, single and combined. Also for the whole frequency range with and without audyssey...



By the way is there anything I could do wrong when doing these high SPL measurements? I'm always a bit afraid of damaging something. Also what sweep length should I use?




Well, it was never my plan to go dual.

I'm fine with the PB16 alone. It's placed at a location where I'm getting a flat frequency response after audyssey to the main (and only) listening postion. But I was still curious to see if I could get anything out of the PB2000 together with the PB16. I'm not in a rush to sell it and a second PB16 is always an option but not right now.... :)

Hi,

I may not try to answer all of your questions, but I will answer a few of them. First, you don't want your voice coils to overheat, when you do sweeps, so don't do too many in a row. You can let your subs cool-off a little if you are doing several compression tests in a row. You would typically start at around 85dB where most subs would be linear, and you would increase the volume in 5dB increments. At the upper end of the volume range, you would drop-back to 3dB increments and stop where significant compression was occurring.

Compression occurs where one part of the frequency response gets louder and another part doesn't. You will normally see the lines "compressing" (getting closer together in the lowest frequencies first) as they do in the example you posted. That means that as you continue to increase the volume, where compression is occurring, you will hear mid-bass frequencies get louder while lower frequencies stay about the same.

A sealed room can exhibit some air compression that doesn't occur when a door is opened, and you may feel that as pressure on your ear drums. But, sealing the room may have a modest effect on the actual room gain that is occurring. The lowest bass frequencies will still escape the room through all six surfaces. On the other hand, opening a door can sometimes enhance the low-frequency SPL in a room by literally tuning the room. The open door can act like a port on a subwoofer in some cases. Some people, including myself, have experimented with that and have found that opening the door to different widths may sometimes have a beneficial effect.

I would definitely go with just the PB16, in Extended mode, if I were you. But then, I really enjoy the low-frequency SPL and TR that the
 

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I assume compression test means doing frequency sweeps while continuously increasing the volume until max output is reached?
While I didn't do that (yet), at least I measured max SPL of the PB16 single and combined with the PB2000.

Obviously it's not flat anymore at this volume level but at least the PB2000 seems to help somewhat. When I measured this I was only interested in the low-end so I stopped at 40Hz. Like I said previously, the place where the PB2000 is has a strong low-end and the PB16's place has the best average frequency response in my room.




I also did this with extended mode but only with the single PB16 and what I found really strange is that it has a higher output when I open the door, which basically is the only opening my room has.


I always thought sealed rooms produced more room gain than open ones. :confused:

Next time I have the house for my own I will run some more tests. Like the compression tests for both subs, single and combined. Also for the whole frequency range with and without audyssey...



By the way is there anything I could do wrong when doing these high SPL measurements? I'm always a bit afraid of damaging something. Also what sweep length should I use?




Well, it was never my plan to go dual.

I'm fine with the PB16 alone. It's placed at a location where I'm getting a flat frequency response after audyssey to the main (and only) listening postion. But I was still curious to see if I could get anything out of the PB2000 together with the PB16. I'm not in a rush to sell it and a second PB16 is always an option but not right now.... :)
I also get more volume with door open across certain areas of the range, 17-22 hz i get about 2-3db more door open and with door close I get more below 16hz. I guess if I really wanted to be OCD I could look at bass charts for the movie I'm watching and open the door for movies with big 17-22 hits. :p
 
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Installed the new PB 13 upgrade amp. Install could not have been easier. 10mins tops. ReRan receiver calibration.

Watching 13 Hours Blu Ray.

I noticed immediately it felt more effortless, I feel like it has more punch, more impact and more depth. (Coming from the original Bash 750 watt amp)

I've yet to run REW or anything like that to play with the parametric's and balance it more. Can't wait to do that and see the difference as well, as my receiver is older and doesn't allow me to utilize that in the calibration.

I'll continue to report back for those of you who are in this similar situation.
 

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The "music" preset comes with a different PEQ setting, but they're technically containers that you can use to save any settings to each. They are just named for you convenience...
Thank you for your quick replay.
That means each present they have their own EQ frequencies and levels.
I was thinking play with the EQ's, but better don't touch them. The I'll do is increase the volume.
Thanks,
Eddy
 

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The factory presets are just placeholders - a starting point for the owner to build out a customized preset.

The music preset does have two PEQs enabled for a mid-bass bump - but they can be disabled if you want.

The default volume for all three presets is -10 - but you can change that to whatever you want and then re-save the preset.

A preset is defined by all menu options that are enabled (including volume). So once you get the subwoofer set-up the way you want - you can save a preset as follows:


  • hit the orange up-arrow at the bottom of the app screen
  • then hit save to preset
  • then select the preset you want
  • then hit save
Note, creating and saving a preset is not the same as loading a preset. Once you have created and saved all of your presets, you can load the one you want from the preset window on the home page of the app.

Also note that if you change the volume after you load a preset, it will suddenly say preset none - but any other menu functions associated with that preset (like a low pass or a PEQ) will still be enabled.
Thank you very much for the explanation.
That means I can play with the EQ with "Movies" but leave alone the "Music" present except volume.
Regards,
Eddy
 

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The factory presets are just placeholders - a starting point for the owner to build out a customized preset.

The music preset does have two PEQs enabled for a mid-bass bump - but they can be disabled if you want.

The default volume for all three presets is -10 - but you can change that to whatever you want and then re-save the preset.

A preset is defined by all menu options that are enabled (including volume). So once you get the subwoofer set-up the way you want - you can save a preset as follows:


  • hit the orange up-arrow at the bottom of the app screen
  • then hit save to preset
  • then select the preset you want
  • then hit save
Note, creating and saving a preset is not the same as loading a preset. Once you have created and saved all of your presets, you can load the one you want from the preset window on the home page of the app.

Also note that if you change the volume after you load a preset, it will suddenly say preset none - but any other menu functions associated with that preset (like a low pass or a PEQ) will still be enabled.
Me again.
Just I was checking the "Music" present parametric EQ but I find that all of them are off. As you said, they must be two of them on but all are off.
If I switch on, all of them have the same setting:
Freq: 50Hz
Boost: 0.0 dB
Q Factor: 1.0
Regards,
Eddy
 

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I assume compression test means doing frequency sweeps while continuously increasing the volume until max output is reached?
While I didn't do that (yet), at least I measured max SPL of the PB16 single and combined with the PB2000.

Obviously it's not flat anymore at this volume level but at least the PB2000 seems to help somewhat. When I measured this I was only interested in the low-end so I stopped at 40Hz. Like I said previously, the place where the PB2000 is has a strong low-end and the PB16's place has the best average frequency response in my room.




I also did this with extended mode but only with the single PB16 and what I found really strange is that it has a higher output when I open the door, which basically is the only opening my room has.


I always thought sealed rooms produced more room gain than open ones. :confused:

Next time I have the house for my own I will run some more tests. Like the compression tests for both subs, single and combined. Also for the whole frequency range with and without audyssey...



By the way is there anything I could do wrong when doing these high SPL measurements? I'm always a bit afraid of damaging something. Also what sweep length should I use?




Well, it was never my plan to go dual.

I'm fine with the PB16 alone. It's placed at a location where I'm getting a flat frequency response after audyssey to the main (and only) listening postion. But I was still curious to see if I could get anything out of the PB2000 together with the PB16. I'm not in a rush to sell it and a second PB16 is always an option but not right now.... :)
I get more SPL as well if my door is open. The "pressure" feeling is certainly more intense with the door closed though, which I tend to prefer for movies.

EDIT: As Mike mentioned though I tend to actually keep my door open a little less than halfway. I seem to get the best of both worlds that way.
 
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Me again.
Just I was checking the "Music" present parametric EQ but I find that all of them are off. As you said, they must be two of them on but all are off.
If I switch on, all of them have the same setting:
Freq: 50Hz
Boost: 0.0 dB
Q Factor: 1.0
Regards,
Eddy
Under Settings, reset the amp to factory defaults. That will restore the Music preset, which should have two PEQs active.
 

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I have a question on my new SVS sub. I bought a SVS pb12-nsd store display model. I’ve had it since yesterday.

I noticed that red limiter light flashing quite a bit today during some of the music I was playing, and then again during the opening scene to iron man 2 (starting about 4 1/2 mins in). Like any time there was heavy bass it would start flashing.

At the time I had the gain knob a just a few turns past 12 o clock, the subwoofer dB on my denon set to -4 and the volume on the receiver at about -20. I have the sub hooked up to the right input (LPF) and my lpf on the receiver set to 80hz. I would say my room mid sized at most.

The only way I can keep it from flashing during any heavy bass scenes or parts in the music (specifically lower bass frequencies) is to keep the gain knob set to 12 o clock or below, but this takes away much of the punch of the subwoofer. Any time I turn any of the settings up enough to feel the punch, that light starts flashing when the lower bass frequencies hit.

Is it ok for the light to be flashing like that? Is it something I should even worry about (obviously I’m not going to purposely abuse the sub and if I hear it being overdriven would back it off)? With this being a store display model I guess I just want to make sure nothing’s wrong with it. This is my first decent subwoofer so this is all new to me.

Thanks for any help.
 

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So I’ve set up my dual PB16 subs, I ran Audyssey on my x4500h and when level matching the the subs I had to set my front left sub to -18db and my front right sub to -21db, which gave me trims in my AVR of -11 and -10.5 for my subs. My subs are pretty much equidistant from my mlp, that is where I am getting the best response. So my question is if it is ok to have different gains on my subs even though they are identical? Or should I just turn up or down the gain to have the them matched?
 

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My room is 21 x 16 x 7. So 2352 cu. ft.

I only have enough room for 1 subwoofer in rear corner. I was considering the pc 2000 pro or pc 4000. Any recommendations. Thanks
 

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My room is 21 x 16 x 7. So 2352 cu. ft.

I only have enough room for 1 subwoofer in rear corner. I was considering the pc 2000 pro or pc 4000. Any recommendations. Thanks
If the 4000 is within your budget,then it's an easy choice :)
 
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