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So I’ve set up my dual PB16 subs, I ran Audyssey on my x4500h and when level matching the the subs I had to set my front left sub to -18db and my front right sub to -21db, which gave me trims in my AVR of -11 and -10.5 for my subs. My subs are pretty much equidistant from my mlp, that is where I am getting the best response. So my question is if it is ok to have different gains on my subs even though they are identical? Or should I just turn up or down the gain to have the them matched?

Hi,

Even though the subs may be equidistant from the MLP, the way that they are interacting with the room (at their specific locations in the room), is not identical. That's why the gains are different. Audyssey has set your subs to play at the same volume at the MLP, which is exactly what you want.

Any adjustments that you ever make to either the sub gains, or to the trim levels in the AVR, should be symmetrical from your current baseline gain settings of -18/-21, and from your trim settings of -11/-10.5. Just adjust both subs equally for any increases or decreases in volume.

Regards,
Mike
 

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If the 4000 is within your budget,then it's an easy choice :)

How about choosing between (2) PC-2000 Pro’s , or, (1) PC-4000 ?
 

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So I’️ve set up my dual PB16 subs, I ran Audyssey on my x4500h and when level matching the the subs I had to set my front left sub to -18db and my front right sub to -21db, which gave me trims in my AVR of -11 and -10.5 for my subs. My subs are pretty much equidistant from my mlp, that is where I am getting the best response. So my question is if it is ok to have different gains on my subs even though they are identical? Or should I just turn up or down the gain to have the them matched?

Hi,

Even though the subs may be equidistant from the MLP, the way that they are interacting with the room (at their specific locations in the room), is not identical. That's why the gains are different. Audyssey has set your subs to play at the same volume at the MLP, which is exactly what you want.

Any adjustments that you ever make to either the sub gains, or to the trim levels in the AVR, should be symmetrical from your current baseline gain settings of -18/-21, and from your trim settings of -11/-10.5. Just adjust both subs equally for any increases or decreases in volume.

Regards,
Mike
Thanks @mthomas47 much appreciated, so would it be ok to adjust the gain on my subs as well as long as it’s symmetrical adjustments? I’ve already adjusted the trims on my subs by 6db but I’m a bit of a bass head and would like a bit more rumble 😬
 

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How about choosing between (2) PC-2000 Pro’s , or, (1) PC-4000 ?
It would really depend on your room size and bass goals for usage...my gut still tells me 1x4000 over 2x2000s. I would want dual 3000s to get me to bite over a single 4000. But again, that's just me. I don't feel too comfortable making that decision for you:)
 
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Thanks @mthomas47 much appreciated, so would it be ok to adjust the gain on my subs as well as long as it’s symmetrical adjustments? I’ve already adjusted the trims on my subs by 6db but I’m a bit of a bass head and would like a bit more rumble 😬

You are very welcome! You absolutely can turn-up the gain on your subwoofers. Most people don't buy the bigger PB16's unless they really do appreciate the low-frequency rumbles. :cool: You have plenty of headroom to turn-up the gain on those subs by as much as you want to. After all, the factory default setting is -10, so they are just loafing along at an average gain setting of -19.5.

Regards,
Mike
 

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Thanks @mthomas47 much appreciated, so would it be ok to adjust the gain on my subs as well as long as it’️s symmetrical adjustments? I’️ve already adjusted the trims on my subs by 6db but I’️m a bit of a bass head and would like a bit more rumble 😬

You are very welcome! You absolutely can turn-up the gain on your subwoofers. Most people don't buy the bigger PB16's unless they really do appreciate the low-frequency rumbles. /forum/images/smilies/cool.gif You have plenty of headroom to turn-up the gain on those subs by as much as you want to. After all, the factory default setting is -10, so they are just loafing along at an average gain setting of -19.5.

Regards,
Mike
Awesome! I am going to adjust the gains and then throw on some Mad Max Fury Road to take my subs on a test drive, it sounded awesome with current settings but a little more oomph won’t hurt. 😬 thanks again @mthomas47
 

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It would really depend on your room size and bass goals for usage...my gut still tells me 1x4000 over 2x2000s. I would want dual 3000s to get me. But again, that's just me. I don't feel too comfortable making that decision for you:)
I can give you my personal experience with SVS PB2000 Pro compared to SVS PB 3000 running a single sub only.
Ive had them both in my house over the last 30 days and I kept the PB2000 Pro
 

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I can give you my personal experience with SVS PB2000 Pro compared to SVS PB 3000 running a single sub only.
Ive had them both in my house over the last 30 days and I kept the PB2000 Pro
 
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Does anyone else have very large dual subwoofer cabinets both at the front stage (I have dual SVS PB 16 ultras in one room and dual PB4000s in another room) and find it difficult to line up their front towers and center?

My issue is that these SVS subs stick out so much I would have to move my stand up in line and move my ultra towers up far as well to make it look "right." I know room correction systems set the delays for the subwoofers to be time aligned with the other speakers but besides aesthetics, does it matter if I just keep my stand and towers further back towards the front wall?

I hope this make sense. Basically I am asking if I should move my stand up really far to be in line with these big sub cabinets or just keep it all back and make sure the center and front towers are aligned?

Thanks for any help! I have always just read you want your sub drivers to be aligned with the tweeters of the other speakers if used on the front stage so everything sounds even and blends well together.
 

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I got the email about the 13 Ultra series amp upgrade and I want the blue-tooth control so I went for it.

The swap was incredibly easy on my PB13 Ultra. Images attached.

The first thing I noticed was the the bass was not as punchy anymore - Not sure why. Even at 0dB in the SVS app, and -5dB on the AVR (Denon X3400H) it was fairly low - For reference, the subwoofer was set to -15db on the older sledge amp. I was able to get it sounding louder by setting the AVR trim to 0, and then the shotgun scene in John Wick 3 and the intro to Overlord sounded ok. Ill be running Audyssey XT32 soon once my new center speaker comes in(Going from Klipsch R-25C to KEF R2C) and then do a full evaluation.
Which amp did you have previously?
 

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Does anyone else have very large dual subwoofer cabinets both at the front stage (I have dual SVS PB 16 ultras in one room and dual PB4000s in another room) and find it difficult to line up their front towers and center?



My issue is that these SVS subs stick out so much I would have to move my stand up in line and move my ultra towers up far as well to make it look "right." I know room correction systems set the delays for the subwoofers to be time aligned with the other speakers but besides aesthetics, does it matter if I just keep my stand and towers further back towards the front wall?



I hope this make sense. Basically I am asking if I should move my stand up really far to be in line with these big sub cabinets or just keep it all back and make sure the center and front towers are aligned?



Thanks for any help! I have always just read you want your sub drivers to be aligned with the tweeters of the other speakers if used on the front stage so everything sounds even and blends well together.
I have both of mine in the front.

I don't think it matters beyond visual aesthetic, as long as you time align everything. I kept my cabinet where it was but shifted my speakers forward and slightly toed so they line up better and create an arc shape. Little more pleasing to my eyes (I even gave in and moved my right sub closer to corner and not equidistant haha).
 

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I have both of mine in the front.

I don't think it matters beyond visual aesthetic, as long as you time align everything. I kept my cabinet where it was but shifted my speakers forward and slightly toed so they line up better and create an arc shape. Little more pleasing to my eyes (I even gave in and moved my right sub closer to corner and not equidistant haha).
Looks very clean! I'm just going to go with what sounds the best and ensure my center and fronts match up. I'm going to have to ditch the aesthetic piece a bit because it looks weird if I move my stand up to match these behemoth subs, lol! Since the distances and delays are set in Dirac and Audyssey (the two room corrections I use) i should be fine to line the speakers up back behind the sub cabinets a bit and it shouldn't affect performance much. Your setup is top notch though! Thanks for your thoughts and sharing!
 

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I have both of mine in the front.

I don't think it matters beyond visual aesthetic, as long as you time align everything. I kept my cabinet where it was but shifted my speakers forward and slightly toed so they line up better and create an arc shape. Little more pleasing to my eyes (I even gave in and moved my right sub closer to corner and not equidistant haha).
What wedge are you using under your center channel?

Thanks
 

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Does anyone else have very large dual subwoofer cabinets both at the front stage (I have dual SVS PB 16 ultras in one room and dual PB4000s in another room) and find it difficult to line up their front towers and center?

My issue is that these SVS subs stick out so much I would have to move my stand up in line and move my ultra towers up far as well to make it look "right." I know room correction systems set the delays for the subwoofers to be time aligned with the other speakers but besides aesthetics, does it matter if I just keep my stand and towers further back towards the front wall?

I hope this make sense. Basically I am asking if I should move my stand up really far to be in line with these big sub cabinets or just keep it all back and make sure the center and front towers are aligned?

Thanks for any help! I have always just read you want your sub drivers to be aligned with the tweeters of the other speakers if used on the front stage so everything sounds even and blends well together.

If the subs run any DSP they will add a delay to the sound effectively moving them back. As long as they don’t physically impede the towers, I don’t see any issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If the subs run any DSP they will add a delay to the sound effectively moving them back. As long as they don’t physically impede the towers, I don’t see any issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for your thoughts! The sub cabinets are just so long that it makes the most sense to just leave the towers back in line with the center channel and stand. If I move the stand up to match the subs then it just looks weird since there is so much of a gap between the stand and the wall. These subs are HUGE! Lol!
 

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well, I did it. I was going back and forth between what sub to get and I was driving myself a bit bat **it crazy. From the plan of dual SB 2000 Pros, dual SB 3000s, to a single SB 4000 to the last minute quick decision to say "eff it" and just get the SB16 Ultra. My ultimate goal was a single sub (footprint/WAF), with hopefully enough bass to satisfy my thirst. After tons of reading and reviews I had decided on the SB 4000 and was very happy with that decision but for some reason right before I ordered it I looked at the physical specs of the SB-4000 and the SB16 and it was just marginally larger. I thought, who would notice the difference in such a small increase of size. :D So here is my SB16 in tow.


I was just hoping with that last minute move that I wouldn't find myself wanting another sub and it would be worth the extra cash. We'll see if it pays off.
 

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well, I did it. I was going back and forth between what sub to get and I was driving myself a bit bat **it crazy. From the plan of dual SB 2000 Pros, dual SB 3000s, to a single SB 4000 to the last minute quick decision to say "eff it" and just get the SB16 Ultra. My ultimate goal was a single sub (footprint/WAF), with hopefully enough bass to satisfy my thirst. After tons of reading and reviews I had decided on the SB 4000 and was very happy with that decision but for some reason right before I ordered it I looked at the physical specs of the SB-4000 and the SB16 and it was just marginally larger. I thought, who would notice the difference in such a small increase of size. :D So here is my SB16 in tow.


I was just hoping with that last minute move that I wouldn't find myself wanting another sub and it would be worth the extra cash. We'll see if it pays off.
Hey, go big or go home as the saying goes. Best of luck and congrats.
 
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