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I want make compact speakers from CMS601DC drivers .
may be, anyone has fotos of CMS601DC crossovers?
What volume of box is optimal for 601DC ?
In spec's I see small volume of original sleel back can's.
 

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One fact forgotten: Because of plugging-in-a-row the two speakers have 16 Ohm instead of 8 Ohm, I have to level the center 6dB louder in the Denon X3500.
This is something I don't quite understand and would like some help with. I would like to use the AMS 6DC as Atmos speakers. I have a Denon 6500. With them being 16ohm speakers, will they work ok? Is there special considerations to take?

As an aside, my primary use case is gaming. With gaming, Atmos isn't "mixed" and could play a full-range sound at any time. I say this because my Atmos speakers will need as much power as any other channel in my system.

Will I be handicapped on max power output with 16ohm? It seems the AMS 6DC is power-hungry to begin with. Am I off base?
 

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I want make compact speakers from CMS601DC drivers .
may be, anyone has fotos of CMS601DC crossovers?
What volume of box is optimal for 601DC ?
In spec's I see small volume of original sleel back can's.
Sorry, I am not ignoring you, I just don't have those speakers nor photos of the crossovers.

Wish I could help more, good luck.

Aaron
 

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Hello all,

I have pulled the trigger and got a pair of Tannoy Legacy Arden, to replace my Tannoy DC10 Ti. Does anybody use them? Should I expect a significant step up with the HPD 15 inch driver over the 10 inch one?

Any advice on placement and toe-in? Do people configure the energy and roll off in the front control panel, according to toe-in, and differently for music and movie situations...
I don't have the exact speakers, but did make the driver size changes discussed.

I did slightly adjust the roll off on the front panel with the 10" but not the 15". I will try and see if they need any fine tuning but normally if I go higher on the treble, it just doesn't sound quite right to me.
(However; as of 3 wks ago my hearing is only good up to 16280 Hz, not 20k Hz--who knows if this makes that much difference.)

I think there will definitely be a difference /b/ 10" and 15" if just using the speakers alone. As I don't use a sub with my stereo set up, I think the 15" drivers perform as expected...effortless, solid bass reproduction- no booming. the 10" certainly weren't strained in any way, shape, nor form; but seemed to have slightly more boom to them. That being said I still have the 10" drivers and use them as my LR in the theater set up- and I love those speakers.

Toe in is important and I've heard can be personal preference. The handout that comes with some of the 15" speakers from tannoy has recommendations for distance away from side and back walls and toe in. Personally, I've heard, if you like a more treble sound; cross the toe-in of the speakers in front of the MLP (main listening position) but if you want a more relaxed less treble sound; cross the toe-in behind the MLP. However, I did what you did with the 15" drivers and just plopped them down and need to do more work adjusting them. With the 10" drivers, I had much better imaging (may have to do with the sized of the room and lack of treatments). I too will have to do an A/B test and see.

I have used the Tannoy XTC with the XT6Fs, XT6s and XT minis in a Dolby Atmos Setup and it was a great experience, with the center channel blending in seamlessly...Of course the XT6Fs are smaller than the XT8Fs...I will sell this center only to move to the prestige line, it now blends in even with my 15 inch Legacy Ardens
I agree I use ~6" drivers for the atoms duties in my theater set up. The the center speaker, I did feel that moving from a 6" driver to an 8" driver was a big step up, but nothing like going to a 12" driver for the center. In particular deep voices like in the beginning of Armageddon were so much more noticeable (and better than in a commercial theater- IMHO= in my humble opinion).

Frankly speaking for music I was expecting bit more. The resolution sounded similar in my ears but I did not A/B listened to both before getting them. I also didn't raise the Ardens with a stand which I would advise to, as the dual concentric driver is low...I would say get the Ardens as the bass in the cases I listened in pure audio from my Marantz, sounded better. I will trade mine in if I find a good price for the Prestige models.
I could hear a difference in the sensitivities of the speaker between 10" and 15" mainly because the increase in volume. I agree that the resolution and musicality was similar in many situations except in Female vocal solos, Acoustic guitars solos, and Cello solos were where I felt the biggest increase in musicality, though it wasn't that much of a difference. But as I said before I need to fine tune the toeing and do some A/B testing.

Aaron
 
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Hello Tannoy fans. I know nothing about these speakers and wondering if anyone had any info on them. A friends father past a little ways back and we went to start clearing his house. We brought back a pair of Tannoy 15" Gold (LSU/HF/15/8) which I believe are from the late 60s. The tag says they are Lancaster which I think is just the cabinet model. He told me they were working when he was there a few months back. I believe they were being driven by an old Tandberg receiver (a TR-1055 I believe). They seem to be in decent shape but one of the grills are broken (he say he did that when he was a kid and his father was pissed), and some of the veneer is peeling. If anyone can shed some light on these as far as things like value and what is needed to drive them properly it would be appreciated. (I like nice sound, but by no means would call myself an audiophile). Thanks.
 

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Hello Tannoy fans. I know nothing about these speakers and wondering if anyone had any info on them. A friends father past a little ways back and we went to start clearing his house. We brought back a pair of Tannoy 15" Gold (LSU/HF/15/8) which I believe are from the late 60s. The tag says they are Lancaster which I think is just the cabinet model. He told me they were working when he was there a few months back. I believe they were being driven by an old Tandberg receiver (a TR-1055 I believe). They seem to be in decent shape but one of the grills are broken (he say he did that when he was a kid and his father was pissed), and some of the veneer is peeling. If anyone can shed some light on these as far as things like value and what is needed to drive them properly it would be appreciated. (I like nice sound, but by no means would call myself an audiophile). Thanks.
Nice vintage speakers.

If it is mastering lab and original crossovers it could be worth a lot more ~7500

without more detail and or pictures price is difficult, but depending on how much damage is visible, and if it is not mastering lab and not original X-over; 1950-2250 USD likely, 7/10 condition is ~2000 USD.

Aaron
 

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As far as I can tell they are all original. It doesn't look like it was every opened and there is still a paper tag on a string hanging on the back. The cabinets are in ok shape, but not great (some peeling veneer, a cup stain and a bit dirty). The wooden grill has a hole in the middle (as I said from my friend when he was a kid). Here is a pic of the model number from the back. (I'll take some more shots when I get over to his house again. It was cold and dark when we were unloading).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V1uup0ZnCeBKusvAEddmtOL5uoWX2ZlY/view?usp=sharing
 

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I was wondering if that would work (all my pictures stuff changed when Flickr went to a 1k limit). For some reason it worked for me even when I was logged out of everything.
 

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I was wondering if that would work (all my pictures stuff changed when Flickr went to a 1k limit). For some reason it worked for me even when I was logged out of everything.
Unless it has been opened and altered it is likely the original X-over, so I would guess it's worth ~2K but I would check on eBay and, US AudioMart (and the Canadian counterpart- given that they purchase a lot more Tannoy products) for a more specific price.

Good Luck

Aaron
 

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Thanks for the info. I will do some more research. Not sure if my friend hooked them up to his system yet, but look forward to hearing them.
 

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Why? Your speakers are much better. MUCH better.
What makes you think the 8T's are much better than their bigger brother the 10A's? You could be right, and I'm hoping you are, but I'd like to hear your reasoning.

The original Definition mode lineup was :
10A $16,000 top of the line
10Ti $10,000 level below
8Ti $8,000

I do know my 8Ti's graphed well, except for a dip in the midrange:


Thanks.
 

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What makes you think the 8T's are much better than their bigger brother the 10A's?
The 10A’s use an expensive obsolete retro-fetishist magnet material, Alnico, that actually demagnetizes if you put a lot of power to the voice coil. It also uses Tannoy’s old tweeter phase plug. Basically it’s 1940s speaker technology in an contemporary wrapper. Your Tannoys use more stable magnets and have a superior tweeter phase plug.

And that’s before even discussing the real world performance improvements from adding a helper woofer to reduce Dual Concentric excursion.
 

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The 10A’s use an expensive obsolete retro-fetishist magnet material, Alnico, that actually demagnetizes if you put a lot of power to the voice coil. It also uses Tannoy’s old tweeter phase plug. Basically it’s 1940s speaker technology in an contemporary wrapper. Your Tannoys use more stable magnets and have a superior tweeter phase plug.

And that’s before even discussing the real world performance improvements from adding a helper woofer to reduce Dual Concentric excursion.
That is a very interesting point and I was reading something similar about the Genelec speakers, with a Dual-Concentric equivalent driver, that a fundamental design flow of the DC is that the woofer movement modulates the sound from the tweeter, creating a doppler effect. The louder the sound and the more movement the woofer does, the more pronounced the effect is. My DC10Ti was an amazing speaker and the helper woofer, that was alleviating some of the modulation, could be the reason. I haven't thought that this could be an advantage over higher spec'ed Tannoys like the DC10A. Do you think that speakers from the Prestige line, with Alnico and Pepperpot waveguide might also be compromised versus a dual woofer speaker?

I am currently saving for a pair of Tannoy Westminsters Royal GR, which hopefully is the end of the journey from a speaker point of view. Anybody here has them and can comment on their difference versus other speakers?
 

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That is a very interesting point and I was reading something similar about the Genelec speakers, with a Dual-Concentric equivalent driver, that a fundamental design flow of the DC is that the woofer movement modulates the sound from the tweeter, creating a doppler effect. The louder the sound and the more movement the woofer does, the more pronounced the effect is.
I’d say yes and no. With bigger drivers it’s not as big a deal. However, the problem becomes a woofer that’s too large for a smooth handoff to the tweeter. The Tannoy 15s are all a sonic step down from the 12s. I had a chance to hear 15DMTIIs and almost bought them. Fortunately I lugged one of the 12DMTIIs I was using at the time, and it was quickly apparent the plastic 12s were much smoother and tonally true than the paper 15s.

Do you think that speakers from the Prestige line, with Alnico and Pepperpot waveguide might also be compromised versus a dual woofer speaker?
I think the primary compromises there are the obsolete phase plugs and too large woofers, followed by the retrofetishist magnets.

If you’ve heard them and like them, cool. If not, listen carefully and with a speaker you know and like as a control. The “Prestige” Tannoys are not accurate to the source, but if you like what they do to the music you like, then go for it.
 

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Do you think that speakers from the Prestige line, with Alnico and Pepperpot waveguide might also be compromised versus a dual woofer speaker?

I am currently saving for a pair of Tannoy Westminsters Royal GR, which hopefully is the end of the journey from a speaker point of view. Anybody here has them and can comment on their difference versus other speakers?
Sorry I don't own them, but
I Have the Prestige Kensington SE's and The Prestige Canterbury GR's (just a step below the Westminster Royal's) and have no sonic issues with either sets of speakers. I have played and sung in orchestras, bands, and choirs for decades and have had no issues with the realism of the sonic performances of the speakers.

I do own plastic and paper tannoys, tannoys with separate woofers and even super tweeters and still prefer the Canterbury's over the others for music, especially: female vocals, cello and others. If it is your dream, audition them and compare them to others...as everything it is all personal preference, but I would probably get the speakers second hand given the extraordinary expense.

Aaron
 

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...I’ve made topic here, please have a look to see if you have any suggestions on how I can proceed
I think you're doing exactly what I would (and have done with mine in the past). I love moving companies that refuse to put it in the box it came in...and then don't replace the cost of the item they broke.

Good luck and I think the DIY crew has you going in the right direction.

Aaron
 
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