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Boy do I feel like I got ripped off, maybe the victim of bad timing not really sure. Anyway since I am not the only one what is everyone elses plan.


I just purchased an opened box A30 from Best Buy for $230, regular price $299. A day later the price dropped to $199, not to mention the announcement from Warner, has me questioning my purchase.


Now the tough question is should I just get a price ajustment, or get a refund on the player and wait for dust to settle after the 'war'.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adidas_nj /forum/post/12828576


Boy do I feel like I got ripped off, maybe the victim of bad timing not really sure. Anyway since I am not the only one what is everyone elses plan.


I just purchased an opened box A30 from Best Buy for $230, regular price $299. A day later the price dropped to $199, not to mention the announcement from Warner, has me questioning my purchase.


Now the tough question is should I just get a price ajustment, or get a refund on the player and wait for dust to settle after the 'war'.

Hmmm consider yourself lucky. Most of us here paid a lot more. I paid $399 for my A30 the first week of december at Best Buy. Don't get me wrong I like my player a lot and has worked great but it does bug me a little when I see all these sales now just a month later for $199 or whatever
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rynberg /forum/post/12830353


You might want to look into Best Buy's holiday return/price adjustment policy...you can get your money back...

I went to Best Buy a couple days ago and got $50 refund for A3 purchased late December. Just bring in your receipt and it takes a couple minutes. Their price guarantee is good for 30 days.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaselboy /forum/post/12843810


I went to Best Buy a couple days ago and got $50 refund for A3 purchased late December. Just bring in your receipt and it takes a couple minutes. Their price guarantee is good for 30 days.

Actually, you can get back 110% of the discount if you simply bring a competitor's ad (e.g., CC, Fry's B&M). The $50 would have been $55.
 

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Hey, guys, just to follow up on my issue I posted a few days ago about my A30 freezing up 55 minutes in. I ended up taking it back to Best Buy and exchanging it for another A30 and low and behold I notice there's a $100 discount on the model. So, as I'm exchanging my player I ask if I can get the credit and they gave it to me! I set up the new player, upgraded the firmware, and popped in Transformers in HD and it played straight through without a glitch. I was anticipating a freeze 55 minutes in but it never happened. Thank the Lord. That's been the only movie I've tested but it looks promising! Plus, I have an extra $100 to spend in Best Buy. They also gave me the option to credit back my card or cash so you have the option! I'm very pleased I exchanged it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorTex /forum/post/12845401


Hey, guys, just to follow up on my issue I posted a few days ago about my A30 freezing up 55 minutes in.

You still have the barcode on your box when you returned it?


xnappo
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by xnappo /forum/post/12845453


You still have the barcode on your box when you returned it?


xnappo

I actually didn't. I sent the rebate in. Here's the thing, I bought Best Buy's 2 year warranty plan with the player and since I exchanged it, the computer system automatically canceled the UPC code of the original box so they won't send you the HD-DVDs; however, I'm not sure if Best Buy would have honored the exchange (most likely not) had Toshiba sent the rebate back before the system could cancel it.
 

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I have all my HDMI components running through my Sony AVR, including my Toshiba A3-HD. Since the AVR is acting as the HDMI "traffic cop" for the system, I would think that it should either be the first component to power up or the last.


Anyone have any information as to which is true (or that it should not make a difference)?
 

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The third audio setting on the A35 is "Digital Direct Audio Mode" - Yes or No. This setting does not seem to be referenced in the Owner's Manual. Does anyone know the precise meaning of this setting?


Thanks,

Jerry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmozer /forum/post/12882474


I have all my HDMI components running through my Sony AVR, including my Toshiba A3-HD. Since the AVR is acting as the HDMI "traffic cop" for the system, I would think that it should either be the first component to power up or the last.


Anyone have any information as to which is true (or that it should not make a difference)?

Good question. There are some HDMI output source components that want to "see/handshake" with an HDMI input at powerup. In these cases, you want to turn on the "receiving component (TV, AV processor/receiver, etc.)" first. I don't know of any issues with the Toshiba HD players, but there were issues with SONY Bluray that have since been fixed. It's typically firmware correctable in my experience and if you aren't having any issues.........be thankful :)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry /forum/post/12893633


The third audio setting on the A35 is "Digital Direct Audio Mode" - Yes or No. This setting does not seem to be referenced in the Owner's Manual. Does anyone know the precise meaning of this setting?


Thanks,

Jerry

Depending on how you set the 2 above it, it decied whether to send the audio out as PCM (decoded inside the player) or Bitstream (decoded inside your receiver).


If you have an HDMI 1.3 receiver that can decode all the codecs (specially DD TRUE HD and DTS HD MA), then you wan this set to YES. But there is one small caveat - you will not get the menu sounds or the PIP sounds, only the movie sounds (all the movies sounds that is what you want anyway). But if you must have the director's commentaries, or the audio from the PIP, or menu sounds, then you select NO and set the other settings to PCM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lalarsons /forum/post/12902223


Good question. There are some HDMI output source components that want to "see/handshake" with an HDMI input at powerup. In these cases, you want to turn on the "receiving component (TV, AV processor/receiver, etc.)" first. I don't know of any issues with the Toshiba HD players, but there were issues with SONY Bluray that have since been fixed. It's typically firmware correctable in my experience and if you aren't having any issues.........be thankful :)

The XA2 has had some problems with shutdown that one of the temp fixes is to turn it on first, let it boot, then turn on your TV or receiver:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=939795
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by adidas_nj /forum/post/12828576


Boy do I feel like I got ripped off, maybe the victim of bad timing not really sure. Anyway since I am not the only one what is everyone elses plan.


I just purchased an opened box A30 from Best Buy for $230, regular price $299. A day later the price dropped to $199, not to mention the announcement from Warner, has me questioning my purchase.


Now the tough question is should I just get a price ajustment, or get a refund on the player and wait for dust to settle after the 'war'.

If you can get a refund, do it. Brand new they're going for $170ish on a large website that starts with an A.
 

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I purchased the A2 about 10 months ago and have only had one problem so far. 300 locked up and displayed an error code which was fixed in a firmware update about 2 weeks after the movie was released. This amount of time was acceptable to wait for the fix and I have been happy ever since with the A2.

I recently talked my parents into purchasing the A3 so that they could take advantage of the lower prices and they could watch all the movies that I have purchased. Picture quality and sound are great but when you cannot make it through a movie without it locking up, you wonder if the PQ and AQ is really worth it. I am very embarrased so far and wish Toshiba would get thier crap together and fix this issue. Reading these forums about the issues with the latest line of Toshiba players, it is no wonder why people are losing confidence in HD DVD.

Has anyone found that having the player hooked up to the internet, fixed any of thier issues?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lalarsons /forum/post/12902223


Good question. There are some HDMI output source components that want to "see/handshake" with an HDMI input at powerup. In these cases, you want to turn on the "receiving component (TV, AV processor/receiver, etc.)" first. I don't know of any issues with the Toshiba HD players, but there were issues with SONY Bluray that have since been fixed. It's typically firmware correctable in my experience and if you aren't having any issues.........be thankful :)

So, I am thinking, a good rule of thumb when possible would be to power up in this order:


TV (which is the slowest to come on)

HDMI Receiver

DVD or Cable Box


Now if I can figure out how to make my Harmony 550 do things in that order, I'll be set.......
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by grsz06 /forum/post/12904211


Firmware HD A3 1100 on Toshiba site. It was HD A3 1300.....Are we going backwards or is this really an update???

The ISO is still dated 10/10/2007. Guess there are not enough issues to justify a fix.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmozer /forum/post/12904347


So, I am thinking, a good rule of thumb when possible would be to power up in this order:


TV (which is the slowest to come on)

HDMI Receiver

DVD or Cable Box


Now if I can figure out how to make my Harmony 550 do things in that order, I'll be set.......

Should be OK. You mentioned TV is slowest to come on......it would be interesting to try powering up your receiver 1st to see if it improves TV startup time.
 

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Could one put a series of "dunzel" commands in these macros to buy time for certain components? Could one add on/off a bunch of times, ect. for some old VCR codes for a now gone component?
 
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