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Just started a claim with SquareTrade. Let's see how this one pans out.

SmartCast is gone even after doing soft and hard resets.

Charlie Murphy just appeared out of nowhere in the top left corner.:oops:
I just checked mine again since Naustin said his was working. It was blank at first, even letting it sit for a minute. But I toggled inputs to WatchFree, then backed out of it. And SmartCast came back up. Maybe a glitch with the update.
 

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Hello,

I watched parts of the Thursday night game on FOX in 4K. It was the first time I've seen the HLG (Hybrid Log Gamma) indicator on my P65-E1. The picture dimmed a bit. Is that normal?

Hybrid Log-Gamma is a backwards-compatible high dynamic range standard that was jointly developed by the BBC and NHK. It provides the ability to encode a wide dynamic range, while still being compatible with the existing transmission standards in the standard dynamic range region.

Respectfully,
-B
 

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Hello,

I watched parts of the Thursday night game on FOX in 4K. It was the first time I've seen the HLG (Hybrid Log Gamma) indicator on my P65-E1. The picture dimmed a bit. Is that normal?

Hybrid Log-Gamma is a backwards-compatible high dynamic range standard that was jointly developed by the BBC and NHK. It provides the ability to encode a wide dynamic range, while still being compatible with the existing transmission standards in the standard dynamic range region.

Respectfully,
-B
That has been my experience with HLG on FOX 4K sports. Looks like a wider spectrum of colors but not nearly as bright. I don't think many will like it.
 

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The Smartcast acting up is certainly some kind of serve or FW issue because that has been happening recently on my P55-E1 also.

Question. Is Amazon Prime HDR way, WAY too dark for others? Netflix, Vudu, Apple, and all other sources look fine. But everything I've tried playing from Amazon that's in HDR is just way too dark. Latest example is the new Borat movie on Prime. If you check for example the scene starting at 18:08. I did some Googling and seems it's a common issue with Amazon's HDR? That's quite unfortunate. Why don't they fix it?
 

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Hi all, I've owned the P65-E1 since late 2017 early 2018... never had any problems with it. Today, during power up the white power indicator light came on as per normal but nothing actually appears on the screen. A few power cycles (unplug/replug power cable, long hold power button on TV etc.) and still no power and no screen activity. At this point, the white indicator light doesn't even appear.

I've spent a few hours researching and I can't quite place my finger on if the power board is shot or main board. The legend on the power board is fairly vague and doesn't indicate expected voltages on the appropriate pins (connect from power board to main board).

I guess my question is; have any of you experience a similar issue with the P65-E1 and if so... how did you resolve it? Do you know what types of tests would be beneficial to try using a multimeter? Since there are no obvious voltage information on the board it self I'm not sure what I should be looking at for a proper reading. I tested the pins and most appear to be around 16v. I'm leaning towards this being a main board issue?

Thanks for any tips!
 

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Thanks for any tips!
If it's anything like the 2016 P65-C1 or P55-E1, it's the main board. I've replaced the board in both.
 
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If it's anything like the 2016 P65-C1 or P55-E1, it's the main board. I've replaced the board in both.
Thanks! I'm starting to think the same because I don't see any obvious damage to the power board. I'm running my multmeter along each pin that provides voltage to the main board and each one gives out a consistent 16v (I'm assuming this is expected, there is no legend on the PCB board to indicate what the voltages should be).
 

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If it's anything like the 2016 P65-C1 or P55-E1, it's the main board. I've replaced the board in both.
I don't have any meters to test anything. Would your guess on my P55-E1 in this video also be the main board? Did Vizio kill some tvs with the recent updates that also broke CEC?

 

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I don't have any meters to test anything. Would your guess on my P55-E1 in this video also be the main board? Did Vizio kill some tvs with the recent updates that also broke CEC?

I don't even get a white indicator light any longer. At first I did (first few minutes of power cycling etc.) but now, absolutely nothing. I've already reached out to Vizio support and they were useless.... not thrilled with the "oh well, tough luck.. go look for a repair tech" response from them.
 

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Hi all, I've owned the P65-E1 since late 2017 early 2018... never had any problems with it. Today, during power up the white power indicator light came on as per normal but nothing actually appears on the screen. A few power cycles (unplug/replug power cable, long hold power button on TV etc.) and still no power and no screen activity. At this point, the white indicator light doesn't even appear.

I've spent a few hours researching and I can't quite place my finger on if the power board is shot or main board. The legend on the power board is fairly vague and doesn't indicate expected voltages on the appropriate pins (connect from power board to main board).

I guess my question is; have any of you experience a similar issue with the P65-E1 and if so... how did you resolve it? Do you know what types of tests would be beneficial to try using a multimeter? Since there are no obvious voltage information on the board it self I'm not sure what I should be looking at for a proper reading. I tested the pins and most appear to be around 16v. I'm leaning towards this being a main board issue?

Thanks for any tips!
I wish you the best of luck. Like others said, the Main board seems to be the one to go 1st. I just didn't want to take a chance and waste $ thru that process.

That's what happened to my P50C1 about a month back. Took it apart, saw nothing burnt, etc. Looked into the cost of boards and said screw it. Gave it to a neighbor who is willing to tinker or get some $ from scrap. Bought the Vizio 55" OLED and after 3 weeks with it, I don't miss the P50. It pushed me to upgrade :p
 

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Would your guess on my P55-E1 in this video also be the main board?
Yes.

FWIW, the last main board I bought was just less than $100 (US) with $20 for 2-day shipping.
 

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Yes.

FWIW, the last main board I bought was just less than $100 (US) with $20 for 2-day shipping.
Could the main board be a cause for led strips to sometimes fail to come on, or no? For example one time I turn on the tv it could be a couple strips in the top right that don't come on. Another time those will be working, but one in the top left will be out. Sometimes they all work, sometimes it's a random combination of the same 3-5 different strips/half strips that may or may not come on.
 

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Could the main board be a cause for led strips to sometimes fail to come on, or no? For example one time I turn on the tv it could be a couple strips in the top right that don't come on. Another time those will be working, but one in the top left will be out. Sometimes they all work, sometimes it's a random combination of the same 3-5 different strips/half strips that may or may not come on.
Maybe?

I'm assuming that the main board commands the backlight level but it also means it could be an issue with the backlight system itself.
 

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I wish you the best of luck. Like others said, the Main board seems to be the one to go 1st. I just didn't want to take a chance and waste $ thru that process.

That's what happened to my P50C1 about a month back. Took it apart, saw nothing burnt, etc. Looked into the cost of boards and said screw it. Gave it to a neighbor who is willing to tinker or get some $ from scrap. Bought the Vizio 55" OLED and after 3 weeks with it, I don't miss the P50. It pushed me to upgrade :p
How are you liking the oled? I still have my 65 E1 without any issues though i kind of am hoping it died but mine seems to be bullet proof. I was thinking of the 65 oled or 75 pqx
 
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How are you liking the oled? I still have 65 E1 without any issues i kind of am hoping it died but mine seems to be bullit proof and was thinking of the 65 oled or 75 pqx

Having a bulletproof set is good, some friends and co-workers still have Vizios I sold them 10+ yrs ago and they are still kicking. The 1st 26" I got at Kmart in 2006 is still in my friends garage and he uses it a cpl times a week. Ppl who say they are trash are haters, plain and simple.

The OLED is amazing. For movies and games, it's everything they say it is. I'm in a pitch black room so I don't need the searing nits other sets have. The HDR is jaw dropping, and most of us are getting excellent uniformity on these panels. I never thought I'd jump on the OLED hype train, but after having one for 3 weeks, I can confidently say that until something better comes out with as deep blacks, I'll never get anything else. If mini or micro LED FALD gets super close, I'd try one. The only plus those would have is no chance of burn in(and getting a lot brighter for those in normal lit rooms). but honestly, with keeping brightness/contrast/luminance at default, and not having bright red static images on for hrs straight, i'm not concerned about burn in.

Ask me again after a 8hr session of Assassins Creed Valhalla in 2 weeks
Step #1. Disable compass :ROFLMAO:

If you're in a dark room and can control who is watching and they don't leave a channel on with a logo for 10 hrs, get the OLED. No brainer. If it's going in a brighter living area, get the PQX.
 

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Having a bulletproof set is good, some friends and co-workers still have Vizios I sold them 10+ yrs ago and they are still kicking. The 1st 26" I got at Kmart in 2006 is still in my friends garage and he uses it a cpl times a week. Ppl who say they are trash are haters, plain and simple.

The OLED is amazing. For movies and games, it's everything they say it is. I'm in a pitch black room so I don't need the searing nits other sets have. The HDR is jaw dropping, and most of us are getting excellent uniformity on these panels. I never thought I'd jump on the OLED hype train, but after having one for 3 weeks, I can confidently say that until something better comes out with as deep blacks, I'll never get anything else. If mini or micro LED FALD gets super close, I'd try one. The only plus those would have is no chance of burn in(and getting a lot brighter for those in normal lit rooms). but honestly, with keeping brightness/contrast/luminance at default, and not having bright red static images on for hrs straight, i'm not concerned about burn in.

Ask me again after a 8hr session of Assassins Creed Valhalla in 2 weeks
Step #1. Disable compass :ROFLMAO:

If you're in a dark room and can control who is watching and they don't leave a channel on with a logo for 10 hrs, get the OLED. No brainer. If it's going in a brighter living area, get the PQX.
Thanks man for the detailed response & congrats on the new tv!
 
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2020 TCL 55R635 TV (OLED-Like) - Brightly-lit, Pinpoint, Tiny Stars!), Vizio Sound Bar
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Aw... no 50" or 55" P-series anymore. So, Santa-Brother got me a 2020 TCL 6-Series 55" (Mini LEDs) TV!

I don't like the Roku system and Menu system and the overly-simple remote. I can't do direct-channel entry? :mad:

I much prefer the Vizio Remote and Menu/Navigation. However, the TCL pic is amazing! The highlights pop as if all content is HDR! The colors are amazing. More hues to see. (Red is overly intense, but it's a much prettier, accurate red than what was on my Pee-Fiddy.

The pic is TOO BRIGHT for me. I had to turn down the Backlight. (Most of my viewing is at night.) When I browse my YouTube Subscriptions, the image is way, way too bright. Why can't I adjust the intensity of the pic when browsing the Apps or RowKoo Channels? :rolleyes:

Note: Off-Axis viewing quality looks bad real quick. Viewing must be on-axis for the best pic.

The Pee-Fiddy-See-One is picture dead. I'll open it up again and flex some boards to see if I can get a pic. My brother plans on getting used, working boards for it, to sell it. I'll be here until the Pee-50 leaves my possession, dead or alive. 🙃


I'm now in the 2020 TCL 6-Series Owner Thread...
 

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I don't even get a white indicator light any longer. At first I did (first few minutes of power cycling etc.) but now, absolutely nothing. I've already reached out to Vizio support and they were useless.... not thrilled with the "oh well, tough luck.. go look for a repair tech" response from them.
I don't have any meters to test anything. Would your guess on my P55-E1 in this video also be the main board? Did Vizio kill some tvs with the recent updates that also broke CEC?

my P65-C1 just died also will not power on anymore.

the main board is shot only lasted 3 years and cost $3000.

I searched reddit and a lot of users have had the same issue this month.
 

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Maybe?

I'm assuming that the main board commands the backlight level but it also means it could be an issue with the backlight system itself.
my P65-C1 just died also will not power on anymore.

the main board is shot only lasted 3 years and cost $3000.

I searched reddit and a lot of users have had the same issue this month.
If several people are all experiencing this around the same time, is what I said a possibility then, that recent FW is killing main boards? I hate to spend nearly $200 on one, only to have it happen again shortly later due to some severe FW issue. I searched the Vizio reddit but I couldn't find the posts you are referring to. Can you post links to the ones you mentioned?

Anyway, do either of you know if the main boards interchangeable? For example:

Mine:
XHCB0QK016030X

Also seen being sold as P55-E1 main boards:
XFCB0QK039050X
XGCB0QK025020X
XHCB0QK022020X

My brain tells me that the F, G, H revision numbers are from older to newest... but then are there also revisions within each number? Like the board in mine is an "H" version, but it ends with 16030 as opposed to the other "H" version I see being sold that ends with 22020. So should I be matching my main board with the 100% same version as listed on it's label? Or should I go with "supposedly" newer "H" 22020?

Regardless, With reports of this stuff happening with several people recently, I'm still hesitant to order one.
 
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