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Ok, I have a question for the members that have replaced the main board or the power board. What mode did you operate you display in Quick Start or ECO mode? My display will be 5 years old in April, and I have been running in ECO mode for most of it's time. So I have been wondering if Quick Start has been the main factor in all of the failures.
 

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Ok, I have a question for the members that have replaced the main board or the power board. What mode did you operate you display in Quick Start or ECO mode? My display will be 5 years old in April, and I have been running in ECO mode for most of it's time. So I have been wondering if Quick Start has been the main factor in all of the failures.
Having followed this thread for years.... Most people with recent problems appear to be gamers. I am thinking the HDMI ports can not take the different frequency handshakes with the newer firmware. I don't game but I notice more magenta lines (occasional) when I change inputs for my video streamers. I have used Quick Start for the last couple of years.
 

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Over the past few days I've noticed that ghosting and trailing on my P65-C1 has gotten worse. At first I thought it was just me but then I noticed that a new update (10.0.36.2-2) was recently pushed to my display.

My set has always had some occasional reddish/purplish ghost trails following some dark objects (one of the negatives of it being a VA LCD panel) but now I've noticed that it's also happening to light objects as well. I played around with all of the settings I can think of but nothing seems to solve these new ghost trails following lighter objects. These new trails seem to be greenish in colour.

This is most evident in gaming with clear action enabled.

I did a factory reset and I think it improved somewhat but it's still very visible and distracting.

Has anyone else noticed this or am I just going crazy?
 

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Ok, I have a question for the members that have replaced the main board or the power board. What mode did you operate you display in Quick Start or ECO mode? My display will be 5 years old in April, and I have been running in ECO mode for most of it's time. So I have been wondering if Quick Start has been the main factor in all of the failures.
I'm also running Eco mode. My understanding of Eco mode is that it will powered down the main board on shutdown while Quick Start just turns off the display.

No gaming here, but I do occasionally plug my laptop into the display.
 

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I requested a PQX & they came back w/ a PQ as well. It's suppose to be here Monday.
I did get the PQ last Monday, 2/15. Opened it up and there was no feet in the box. Contacted Squaretrade they had to set up a pickup of this TV which happened today now I have to wait for another to get shipped. :(
 

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I did get the PQ last Monday, 2/15. Opened it up and there was no feet in the box. Contacted Squaretrade they had to set up a pickup of this TV which happened today now I have to wait for another to get shipped. :(
There is feet you have to cut open the box from the top & the feet are on top. I also though I had no feet but the watched an unboxing video on youtube and it showed me that and manual.
 

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At my residence, the Verizon FIOS DNS Servers have been going offline for short periods almost every day for the past few months. Thus, my worksite VPN servers names would not resolve properly and my client would not connect. This affected viewing streaming content, as well. When I changed my ISP's DNS servers on my client, I no longer had any DNS issues.

Unfortunately, my Roku devices will not allow static addressing along with static DNS. I will not purchase that product again.

My Nvidia Shield, Vizio TV, various handheld devices and Home Theater receivers are all hardcoded to a static IP address with Static DNS.

I changed the setting in my family Apple and Samsung phones with VERY positive results also. The phones are as fast as they were when they were purchased. Give this a shot and let me know how it works out for you.

Level 3
4.2.2.1 a.resolvers.level3.net
4.2.2.2 b.resolvers.level3.net
4.2.2.3 c.resolvers.level3.net

Level3
209.244.0.3
209.244.0.4

OpenDNS
208.67.222.222
208.67.220.220
2620:0:ccc::2
2620:0:ccd::2

Google Public DNS
8.8.8.8
8.8.4.4
2001:4860:4860::8888
2001:4860:4860::8844

Neustar DNS Advantage
156.154.70.1
156.154.71.1

SafeDNS
195.46.39.39
195.46.39.40

Verisign
64.6.64.6
64.6.65.6
2620:74:1b::1:1
2620:74:1c::2:2

Check out the howtogeek links below on how to configure different devices with the new DNS servers.
How to Switch to OpenDNS or Google DNS to Speed Up Web Browsing https://itwiki.nih.gov/wiki/pages/s1H6e76/VPN_Issues_with_Verizon_FiOS_Users.html
 

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There is feet you have to cut open the box from the top & the feet are on top. I also though I had no feet but the watched an unboxing video on youtube and it showed me that and manual.
They're suppose to be in that top piece of styrofoam. Only thing there was the box with remote, screws, power cable & batteries.
 

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New P65-C1 owner here. I've been "following" this thread since near inception. This was the TV I wanted when I bought my M60-C3 in Jan 2016 but there were availability and pricing issues in Canada that kept me with the M60. Between checks I was surprised to see the significant uptick in freeze/reboot failures and mainboard replacements.

This was a local classifieds find for a pretty good price worth taking a chance on. Owner reported the beginnings of the freeze/reboot issue which began occurring repeatably but usually only on the "most demanding" content (I interpreted what they said to mean [email protected] or [email protected] SDR gaming). I have a few questions and things to report.

1/ The first thing I did was open the set. I may have fixed or significantly improved the issue for no cost. More on that after I confirm. I have watched 10+ hours of [email protected] HDR10 and [email protected]/30 DV (Netflix) with not a single incident. I have been running test content [email protected] SDR and nothing's happened yet. Can anyone point me to good [email protected] HDR test content I could download and stream locally via PleX? Most of my searches point me to streaming sites, or they aren't 60fps. I cannot get the built in YouTube client to do 4K, my Shield Pro cannot do Youtube [email protected] HDR (a VP9p2 hardware limitation I believe). I want to try to exercise this thing at its max to check to see if I have fixed it.

Even if I get some crashing, I still have a <$1 improvement to test but it requires more disassembly than what I've done so far.

2/ The most trouble I am having is with the tablet remote. The included basic IR remote doesn't have enough functionality so I'm using my M60's IR remote to set everything up and test. The tablet and TV have been factory reset. They cannot pair. Googling has not taken me to useful hits for my situation.

Is the P65-C1 supposed to have bluetooth? System info says my BT rev is "N/A" and my BT MAC is blank. The P65 is connected by wired Ethernet, updated to the latest firmware, factory reset, and can using the Internet and all online content from Internet and LAN. I can use the "built in" Smartcast apps or cast from PleX.
  • With original software the tablet never pairs via BT or wifi, and nothing happens in the BT/NFC zone in the lower right of the screen.
  • If I put the tablet on my wifi, it updates the OS and the app (several rounds) from the Internet, but the new software cannot find any SmartCast device on my LAN except my nVidia Shield. The new version also doesn't give any indication at all of attempting a BT/NFC pairing (i.e. "hold the tablet near the TV").
  • Nothing says whether the TV needs to be in a certain state (e.g. on the SmartCast input, but that's where I usually have it when attempting this).
  • The tablet works on my LAN and on the Internet, just doesn't pair with the TV.
  • If I open the bluetooth settings screen on the tablet I can even see a dozen BT devices including my neighbours'. BT seems fine on the tablet.
  • If I put the Smartcast app on my iphone, it gave me trouble at first but eventually found the TV and works fine over wifi, no BT being used.
  • I cannot cast from Netflix on my phone, but I think Netflix might be messing with their app because I can cast from PleX on my phone.
So I know the tablet remote isn't all that fantastic, but I want something dedicated to the TV that the family can use/share and just gets the job done. I'm technical and this is driving me nuts. I don't see the average Joe getting this working out of the box - is something wrong with my P65 and BT isn't working? I would like the remote functionality to be via BT if that is available to me, as I'm hoping that power on/off might work over BT too. I know that casting etc... will need wifi (which also isn't pairing right now either).

So, I've tried - factory reset the entire tablet and pair with factory software revisions AND bypass the friendly Vizio welcome stuff, get the tablet updated to the latest revisions of everything and pairing from there. All of my HT equipment is wired. The HT and the phones/tablets are on the same VLAN with no endpoint isolation. Multicast is being filtered/whitelisted between wired and wireless, various combinations are working but I'll explore that more.
 

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You could try one of these 4K 60fps demos on a loop:

Many of those do look good - I have a whack of them on repeat-all for the last couple of hours. No crashes. Thank you

What did you do?
I'd like to try to kill it first before unfurling the "Mission Accomplished" banner :)

Now if I could just get the tablet to pair.
 

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Well after a few hours looping [email protected] HDR10 demo videos (the bitrate on some was so high it couldn't cast using the built in 100Mbit Ethernet so it was Shield only) heat was radiating from the whole set (lower formats especially SDR didn't do that) and I had not witnessed any crash/reboots.

I would love for someone with a set that fails pretty easy to give this a look. I have a really hard time believing that I'm the first to find this and do this... To recap, a lot of the reading I've been doing points me to heat as the leading suspect for the problem that is building over time. People with sets that boot loop from cold and whatnot aren't in the same category in my opinion.

After opening the set I did some routine cleaning and dusting. I observed what I'll call heat spreaders on the main board and what I believe is the LED driver board (approximately centered in the set with lots of ribbon cables). My M60 main board has a bare aluminum heat sink with vertical fins which align with convective airflow. The P65 main board has a flat, black aluminum panel with no fins over top of most of the board. There are two major contact areas which seem to be for large chips (i.e CPU and GPU or similar). The panel clicks down with some spring loaded clips. It may or may not contact other ICs. The heat spreader on the LED driver board is flat and featureless and fastens down with another kind of spring loaded device. I am guessing that there is a grid of SMT driver ICs underneath the spreader.

Both heat spreaders still had a medium-thickness clear protective film attached. This will act as an insulator and a barrier to heat transfer. The pads meant to keep the rear panel from flexing and touching the board were just stuck on top of this film. At first I notched the film to leave the pads in case they could not be re-attached, but I ended up pulling off the entire film, removing the spacers and reapplying them directly to the heat spreader.

I did not mess around with the film on the LED driver heat spreader on my first round. I subscribe to a theory of "collateral damage" when working on most things, including cars and electronics. I will probably have to score the film around all of the little springs and peel at a later time.

I expect that I could unfasten the main board heat spreader if I had access to the clips on the underside of the main board. At a later time I believe I will remove the main board, attempt to remove the heat spreader, and apply fresh ceramic thermal compound to any contact points. Again, ribbon connectors and my collateral damage theory prompted me to just leave things put and test it out instead. There might even be protective film on the underside of the heat spreader, which would be a huge find. Plastic film between chip and heat sink will have a greater effect than from heat sink to air. I suspect that I will proceed to investigate removal of the main board heat spreader some time soon. Inadequate cooling will cause unnecessary stress.

Now - if this plastic film alone is the difference between a 100% functional set and one that goes in the trash, IMO the cooling is marginal. What if I live in a hot climate? What about dust build up?. If there's also film on the contact side underneath - that's a much bigger deal. Ditto if the TIM (Thermal Interface Material) is dried up, misapplied, inadequate, or whatever. Combine it all together and maybe it's the root cause...

3097697
3097698
3097699
 

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Anyone watch or watching Umbrella Academy? There are a lot of scenes where HDR is shining. One that really stands out for me is in Episode 5 season 2. Not to spoil anything from the show, but it's about half way through where Diego is speaking to Luther, and Diego is basically blocking and unblocking the sun with his head as he speaks. That sun is bright... 😎🌞 Watching via internal app, so this is DV.
 

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My 4 year old P65 started acting up yesterday. At first it seemed to have lost the display name and also had a pop up suggesting a new remote was needed to navigate the apps. That was weird, but I proceeded to stream a YouTube video. The screen was acting up and eventually went out and turned all purple and blue on me.

I then unplugged the tv. When I restarted, it started to constantly turn on and off. After coming to Reddit and here, I see this seems to be common and may be a sign it's shot.
I left it unplugged, held in the power button a bunch and let it sit over night. Today it powered up, stayed on and I was actually able to cast to it. However, it started acting up again, went to the screen went to purple and blue again and then back to the reboot loop.

It seems it's a board issue like the others. Where is everyone having luck finding a board? I see they are out of stock. Ebay has some refurbished ones and one seller that will rebuild your board for $100. Not sure what to do with this thing.

What I find odd, 3 or 4 other people chimed in on my Reddit post with the same experience starting yesterday...
 

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What I find odd, 3 or 4 other people chimed in on my Reddit post with the same experience starting yesterday...
It's not that odd. Considering how many of these things Vizio sold 4 years ago there are probably several failing every day.

😟
 
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