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The general consensus is the "low impedance switch" isn't a "optimization circuit" as they'd have us think but rather a "limiter" which locks you out of playing as loudly. This is done to prevent heat buildup which makes it difficult for them to pass fire safety UL and CSA certification without investing an an expensive extra part: a cooling fan.

Throwing in the limitation circuit costs them 3 cents whereas the cooling fan would cost 87 cents each. Both lets them pass the tests but one saves them a ton of money.

I don't think 4 ohm will be a problem but be sure to provide good air circulation or invest in a cooling fan yourself. Sorry, it will cost you a lot more than 87 cents though.

Thanks I'll probably invest in one of those cooling fans I'm seeing after searching that sit on top and pull the hot air out.
Sooo... Bad news. the Emotiva C1 did sound good, but when I started pushing it my Amp kept shutting down. Towards the end of Rambo 2008 UHD during the climax with the receiver set down to - 3.0 db. It's mastered pretty loud anyways, but that was pretty loud for that movie. It had a fan on it and didn't really seem to even be getting warm. Must have a pretty conservative protection circuit. I don't watch at that level real often, usually around - 10 to - 8 db when I'm watching a movie, but I like having the option to. Typically -18 to -16 for my streaming or causal movie watching. Too bad. HTD Level 3 it will be. Receiver should have no problem pushing it since it's really meant and it's ratings on the spec sheet are all for a 8 ohm load.

I do have a question reguarding the amps crossover settings. It almost always detects my speakers as "Large" and presets to that and a crossover of 40 hz which is below what any of them are rated for, so I change the setting to small and set crossover to 60hz. I have noticed if you flip it back to "Large" the freq gets grayed out, but remains what you just set it to as "Small". Is it using that freq, or just displaying what it was last set to but still defaulting to 40hz internally after that?
 

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True and that is what I did. I bought two more Dolby Atmos speakers to sit on the speakers, so a total of 4, and I am going to add them today just to see what happens. The image will be the connection I am using but just one SW. The manual states that they will not play at the same time, depending on the signal, either one will play. If I don't see any advantage after testing with 4K Atmos and Blu Ray Atmos movies, I may take them back.
Just as I was expecting, no difference with the extra two so they go back or maybe switch them with the SL and SR in the bedroom or would that be a waste of time? Currently they are the Bose 161 in the bedroom.
 

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Sooo... Bad news. the Emotiva C1 did sound good, but when I started pushing it my Amp kept shutting down. Towards the end of Rambo 2008 UHD during the climax with the receiver set down to - 3.0 db. It's mastered pretty loud anyways, but that was pretty loud for that movie. It had a fan on it and didn't really seem to even be getting warm. Must have a pretty conservative protection circuit. I don't watch at that level real often, usually around - 10 to - 8 db when I'm watching a movie, but I like having the option to. Typically -18 to -16 for my streaming or causal movie watching. Too bad. HTD Level 3 it will be. Receiver should have no problem pushing it since it's really meant and it's ratings on the spec sheet are all for a 8 ohm load.

I do have a question reguarding the amps crossover settings. It almost always detects my speakers as "Large" and presets to that and a crossover of 40 hz which is below what any of them are rated for, so I change the setting to small and set crossover to 60hz. I have noticed if you flip it back to "Large" the freq gets grayed out, but remains what you just set it to as "Small". Is it using that freq, or just displaying what it was last set to but still defaulting to 40hz internally after that?
-3dB seems really loud on my setup (Klipsch towers, RadioShack Optimus center). Even with "high" volume for us, we're at like -21dB. Are the Emotivas just very insensitive (Klipsch are known for high sensitivity). Or maybe they're just bigger speakers (ie more power hungry)?


As far as I know, "large" means it doesn't crossover at all... so the "40" might be just the default number. When put to "small" the receiver diverts lower frequencies (per the xover) to the sub instead. I think the overall recommendation is to always set the mains to "large" when possible, but I always feel it's a personal preference thing. I use "large" on my R-820F speakers... and that's what YPAO selected as well.
 

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Yamaha RX-V685 NOT GETTING ATMOS

I have a new setup with the Yamaha V685, a Sony 85 X900H, and a Panasonic UB820. I have the player going to the receiver then arc to arc on TV. I'm not getting Atmos in the Netflix app on the TV even though it shows up next to the title, and even from the player no Atmos with it set to bitstream.
 

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Make sure the receiver is set to "straight" either by selecting that on the remote or through the onscreen menu. That way it isn't applying any surround decoding but merely passing through the encoding from the source.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

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-3dB seems really loud on my setup (Klipsch towers, RadioShack Optimus center). Even with "high" volume for us, we're at like -21dB. Are the Emotivas just very insensitive (Klipsch are known for high sensitivity). Or maybe they're just bigger speakers (ie more power hungry)?


As far as I know, "large" means it doesn't crossover at all... so the "40" might be just the default number. When put to "small" the receiver diverts lower frequencies (per the xover) to the sub instead. I think the overall recommendation is to always set the mains to "large" when possible, but I always feel it's a personal preference thing. I use "large" on my R-820F speakers... and that's what YPAO selected as well.
That's actually incorrect. If you have a subwoofers all speakers should be set to small regardless. Audyssey and YPAO frequently get this wrong due to factors such as room reflections, poor mic placement and extraneous room noise.

Your mains may well go down to 45Hz but the point of setting your crossover to 80Hz is to relieve the receiver of having to expend the watts required to power the lower frequencies and let the subwoofer do its job, and a good subwoofer is much better at reproducing them than all but the most elite tower speakers.

Start the mains at 80Hz and tweak to your ears content. Start your surrounds at 100Hz and tweak.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

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That's actually incorrect. If you have a subwoofers all speakers should be set to small regardless. Audyssey and YPAO frequently get this wrong due to factors such as room reflections, poor mic placement and extraneous room noise.

Your mains may well go down to 45Hz but the point of setting your crossover to 80Hz is to relieve the receiver of having to expend the watts required to power the lower frequencies and let the subwoofer do its job, and a good subwoofer is much better at reproducing them than all but the most elite tower speakers.

Start the mains at 80Hz and tweak to your ears content. Start your surrounds at 100Hz and tweak.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
FWIW, these mains go to 35Hz +/-3db per the specs. I keep hearing recommendations in both ways - one says to make it large so that there is more distribution on these lower sounds... others like you suggest setting it small. I'll admit I haven't tried both ways yet, and just let YPAO do its thing. Maybe I'll experiment this weekend. In the end, I don't disagree with your statement,

That being said, what would be the correct process to retune. Do I set the crossovers myself and then rerun YPAO, and it will leave my settings alone? Or is there some other process I need to follow? For that matter, I tend to like extra bass, so maybe just setting small and 80Hz will be fine...

EDIT: Also, being new to AVSforum (but well versed in other forums)... what's the deal with it putting multiple line-spaces between my paragraphs? Is there a way for me to turn that off?
 

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Run YPAO save the settings and then go into manual setup and configure speakers as small and set crossover to 80hz to start. Also a good time to check distance and levels etc... Regardless of what your mains are rated to go down to the subwoofer is specifically designed to handle the low frequencies and should result in a better low end.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

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FWIW, these mains go to 35Hz +/-3db per the specs.
That's in an anechoic chamber in a lab, not your room which greatly alters the sound. That's the reason why they supply the mic and the YPAO test procedure so we can correct for what the room does, hence the term for this technology: room correction.

The people who invented 5.1 say when using an outboard powered sub always use "small" and 80Hz for the sub crossover, assuming your speakers can successfully go that low which seems to be the case. This is also exactly what you are experiencing in an actual commercial THX certified movie theater, by the way.
 

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Thanks guys! I set all crossovers to 80hz last night! I ordered a HTD Level 3 yesterday to replace the Emotiva C1. I don't wan't the receiver working harder than it has to.
 

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Yamaha TSR-7850 / RX-V685 and Sound Blaster AE-5 Plus

Hello,

I am fairly new and have set up my Yamaha TSR-7850 (Costco version of the RX-V685 to have HDMI out to my TV on its ARC port. (KDL60R550A).

HDMI 1 has a HDMI output from my nVidia Geforce 1080 card on my Windows 10 Enterprise Pro PC.
The PC also has a PCI-Express Soundblaster Creative AE-5 Plus card. The AE-5 has an optical output port that I currently have on the receivers audio 1 input.

Supposedly, there's a way to have the match the HDMI input from the nVidia signal. I don't know how to accomplish this.

Can anyone direct me on how to have, when I'm gaming and want the output to come through the Soundblaster card, to get the sound from the optical input instead of from what the computer is feeding the receiver over the HDMI signal?

I originally tried this with the HDMI 4 input, but that didn't seem to match the Audio 1 line. I could only hear the sound when I had connected it to Audio 3, but that wasn't attached to the HDMI video input.


Thanks for the help ahead.
 

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Hello all, just received my 7850 Friday. I set up the speakers in the room, have the subwoofer hooked up (jbl 550p) and ran the ypao using the mic. Positioned the mic where i usually sit at and leave the room, came back, no errors on the results. I however did go into the settings to change the bookshelves to small and left most of them at 40hz except the two surrounds because the information for them probably falls in the range of 80hz. The max volume set on the receiver is plus 16db. As far the process goes, things looked normal. I guess due to no errors but I wouldn't know.


I have a pair of 530 bookshelves, a pair of infinity R162, the R263 center, and the JBL 550P subwoofer. I was using a fosi audio 2 channel amp, it's 100w x 2 . Just listing the info to give an idea of what i was using to show what kind of sound i was getting out of the speakers, except for the sub because it didn't have any connections for it. When i used the fosi amp the sound quality i received from the bookshelves and the center were great. I was thinking when i get the receiver, it would be better since i would be able to use the sub.



After hooking up the receiver with the speakers and sub, ran the mic check, did the changes to small speakers, sub crossover control set to 100 and volume at half way like stated on the manual. I have it plugged to the lfe port. The thing I'm seeing is that the sound quality is nowhere near what i was getting from the little fosi amp. It's rather a dumbed down, portable player with small speakers. I was thinking maybe it's the wiring, i double checked and all is well. I'm using banana plugs, so I'm not sure if that would affect anything. Even -12db volume, it feels weak. I'm almost close to the highest volume and it's just okay. It's like the speakers, subs are limited with this receiver. I tried some settings on the speakers individually, all and all, the receiver is either not working well or is under-powered. Everything just sounds weak compared to the fosi. The aux, the bluetooth, audio4 from the back using a rca to 3.5.



Can someone help me out, I want to make sure i did things right, or is the receiver having issues, because i don't believe it should be this bad. I don't feel close to anywhere near the experience i should be having. Thank you in advance. Just a bit disappointed and confused
 

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First thing I'd do is change those crossovers from 40hz to 80hz. You have a subwoofer, let it handle the lower frequencies. It'll do a better job than your bookshelf speakers.
 

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First thing I'd do is change those crossovers from 40hz to 80hz. You have a subwoofer, let it handle the lower frequencies. It'll do a better job than your bookshelf speakers.
I had them set at 80 at first but it doesn't make much difference. The levels just seem weak, i barely hear the bass from the sub, have to go near it to make sure it's on. Sound does come out.Made some changes, didn't help much, so i went and put the original ypao results back. My bad, forgot to add that to original post.
 

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Hello,



I am fairly new and have set up my Yamaha TSR-7850 (Costco version of the RX-V685 to have HDMI out to my TV on its ARC port. (KDL60R550A).



HDMI 1 has a HDMI output from my nVidia Geforce 1080 card on my Windows 10 Enterprise Pro PC.

The PC also has a PCI-Express Soundblaster Creative AE-5 Plus card. The AE-5 has an optical output port that I currently have on the receivers audio 1 input.



Supposedly, there's a way to have the match the HDMI input from the nVidia signal. I don't know how to accomplish this.



Can anyone direct me on how to have, when I'm gaming and want the output to come through the Soundblaster card, to get the sound from the optical input instead of from what the computer is feeding the receiver over the HDMI signal?



I originally tried this with the HDMI 4 input, but that didn't seem to match the Audio 1 line. I could only hear the sound when I had connected it to Audio 3, but that wasn't attached to the HDMI video input.





Thanks for the help ahead.
I have a home theater PC as well. Only it's still running Windows 7. If you go to the sound control panel, you can see what all your sounds outputs are. On my home theater PC, I have both a sound blaster doing analog out, as well as my GT1030 HDMI out to the receiver.

So on Windows 7, you can just switch the default sound output to one versus the other using that control panel.
 

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I just got in my TSR-7850 that I ordered for my first foray into home audio space as I recently purchased a house with some speakers pre-wired, but am running into some snags on the setup.

I have an Nvidia Shield (2019) that I've plugged into the TSR-7850, then have the HDMI out running to a Monoprice Blackbird 4K Pro HDBaseT Extender Kit, Cat 6 to the TV (75ft), then the HDBT receiver, then an HDMI into my tv. All the menu's and such work fine on the TSR-7850, but when I switch to the Shield as the input, my tv just keeps flashing in between a black screen and 'no input detected'. Any thoughts on why it might be doing this? I'm working through a firmware update at the moment to see if that affects it. This is a refurb unit, from the above unmentioned site, but I've tried every HDMI in/out with the same results.
 

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Hey all,

Been struggling with an issue with the TSR-7850 for a week or two and am wondering if anyone here might have insight. Picked one up new from Costco recently and soon noticed some crackling/popping coming from the speakers when we paused content where there was previously no issues (old receiver is a Denon S640H).

After troubleshooting through the various settings and input/outputs I tracked the problem down to having YPAO Volume and ADRC enabled in the options. Turn those off and we have zero issues. Turn those on (and a DSP mode to engage the modes) and we start getting audio artifacts (clipped popping sounds) during playback and continuous crackling/popping when content is paused and the volume is set to between -29 and -26db. Thus far I've done the following:


  • Tested all of our inputs individually (PS4, XBOX, Samsung SmartTV - both ARC and optical, Chromecast, and Firestick 4K) - only one that didn't do it was the Chromecast as it seems to drop the audio signal when you pause playback
  • Tested all of the HDMI inputs and both optical inputs
  • Tried both HDMI outputs (and no HDMI output)
  • Disconnected all but one set of speakers and then moved them around
  • Factory reset and tested the unit fresh with default settings (without running YPAO setup)
  • Toggled just about every setting I could find (including all of the various YPAO modes)

Nothing made a difference. I even tried other power circuits in my apartment to make sure it wasn't some weird electrical issue. Regardless of settings or other variables if the following was true, the issue would occur:


  • Some CinemaDSP mode enabled (this is required for the YPAO Volume/ADRC settings to engage)
  • One or more set of speakers set to "Small" (crossover, levels, PEQ do not matter)
  • YPAO Volume and ADRC enabled
  • Content paused
  • Volume tuned to between -29 and -26db

Thinking it was a bum unit, I exchanged it at Costco. Much to my dismay the new one had the exact same issue. Did some research and picked up an A780 at a local BestBuy. Same issue. Contacted Yamaha support and they suggested exchanging it (again) or sending it down to them for repair. Just for kicks I did pick another TSR up at Costco today (the third now) and sure enough it's the same damn thing. Also contacted a friend who has this unit and when he set his up with the above settings...same issue.

I'm at a bit of a loss. Sure, I can not turn these settings on, but I live in an apartment and ADRC really helps when gaming. Yamaha did test a unit while I was on the phone with tier 2 and said they couldn't recreate the issue and weren't aware of a problem. I suppose I could send the unit down to them for repair but I'm afraid I'm just going to get it shipped back to me or they'll send another new one with the same problem.

For reference I've paired this with the following:


  • Polk s35 Center
  • Polk S20 Fronts
  • Polk TL3 Rears
  • Dayton Audio Sub

I've also picked up some cheap bookshelf speakers ("AcousticAudio") for testing and they have the same issue. My friend has his own mix of speakers, so it doesn't seem to be some weird Polk thing.

Anyone have any thoughts on what I might be missing here or had similar experiences with their own unit?

If you're interested in seeing my test setup/hearing the problem I made a brief video today demonstrating the issue on both the unit I already had and the brand new unit. If someone can spot what I'm doing wrong I'd genuinely appreciate the feedback.


Thanks!
 

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Hey all,

Been struggling with an issue with the TSR-7850 for a week or two and am wondering if anyone here might have insight.
[snip]
Very weird indeed. I think you've done more than your due diligence to troubleshoot this, and it's real.

Funny thing is, I had a similar issue on my ancient Onkyo that I replaced with this Yamaha. The Onk would have a weird hum, but not all the time. That one had no HDMI or anything, so it's likely not related to any of this, but just funny to see that.

Yours is more crackly, as you mentioned. Almost sounds like electrical interference to me. Have you tried to see if this happens with non-HDMI sources (eg, CD player, etc)? And/or what about testing without that monitor connected at all? I know you won't see an image, but you should be able to get sound... so disconnecting anything electrical in the area of the receiver might help locate it?

I'm also wondering if the DSP/ADRC/YPAO might be amplifying the noise... so with those turned off, and the stream paused, can you raise the volume and still hear the noise?

One more trial - I've sometimes seen issues with my router being too close to the receiver. Funny enough, the Onk had this issue, but the TSR doesn't (my router sits right on top of it now). But I wonder if Wifi is part of the issue - try removing the antennas? I doubt this is it, but again, going with my electrical interference theory...
 

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Very weird indeed. I think you've done more than your due diligence to troubleshoot this, and it's real.

Funny thing is, I had a similar issue on my ancient Onkyo that I replaced with this Yamaha. The Onk would have a weird hum, but not all the time. That one had no HDMI or anything, so it's likely not related to any of this, but just funny to see that.
Thanks for the suggestions and the feedback - you start to feel like you're taking crazy pills when working on an issue like this so it's nice to hear an outside perspective.

Haven't tried a CD player but I've tried optical sources with no other HDMI input connected. Also tried that same setup I posted in the video without the HDMI output hooked up and still got the same result. I haven't tried no HDMI at all (e.g. optical only - no HDMI in or out). Might give that a go today.

With the YPAO/ADRC settings disable you can crank the volume to max and not hear any issues. Actually, you can do the same WITH YPAO/ADRC enable as well - you only hear persistent issues in that -29db to -26db range.

Had the same thought about Wifi and yeah, popped the antennas off. Also disabled Bluetooth trying to minimize any kind of interference but no luck.

I'll give no HDMI at all a try and see how that goes - thanks!
 
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