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Most of my AVRs have not allowed you to configure the scale for things. Get used to it.

Reference volume for theaters if about 89 dB I believe. Yamaha’s scale is telling you that you’re X dB below that loud level. So when you’re playing at -20 dB, that’s intended to be 69 dB. Make sense now? Above -0 dB, you could be hurting your hearing (or your speakers, or both!).

Need to get music from your Mac to your hi-fi? Get an Apple TV. Problem solved. (More expensive than a cable, but I’m guessing you have other Apple tech, so the TV would be handy in many ways.)
 

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YPAO and Subwoofer Question

Receiver - Yamaha RX-667
Subwoofer - Acoustech PL200
Mains & Center - Bic Dv62si & Dv62CLR
Surrounds - Bic Dv32s
Room - 13'*11' closed space
Room treatment - First reflection points

When I run YPAO with the sub volume set at 11 o'clock position, the sub trim is set at -7.

Then I usually check the results with the audio control spl meter app on my phone, placed exactly where the ypao mic is placed and the receiver pink noise with the main volume set at 0 on the Yamaha. All the speakers record 75db except the sub which I get 67-69 reading. If I run it 3-4 db hot(from -7 to either -4 or -3) I get a reading of 72-73db. To get 75db on the spl I have to set the sub trim to -1db, which sounds a bit hot.
I have done a sub crawl and placed the sub at the most optimal place.
Question is should I run the sub this hot to get to 75db. I know apps are not the best but why the big difference if it's reading all the other speakers to 75db as set by ypao except the sub.
 

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Receiver - Yamaha RX-667
Subwoofer - Acoustech PL200
Mains & Center - Bic Dv62si & Dv62CLR
Surrounds - Bic Dv32s
Room - 13'*11' closed space
Room treatment - First reflection points

When I run YPAO with the sub volume set at 11 o'clock position, the sub trim is set at -7.

Then I usually check the results with the audio control spl meter app on my phone, placed exactly where the ypao mic is placed and the receiver pink noise with the main volume set at 0 on the Yamaha. All the speakers record 75db except the sub which I get 67-69 reading. If I run it 3-4 db hot(from -7 to either -4 or -3) I get a reading of 72-73db. To get 75db on the spl I have to set the sub trim to -1db, which sounds a bit hot.
I have done a sub crawl and placed the sub at the most optimal place.
Question is should I run the sub this hot to get to 75db. I know apps are not the best but why the big difference if it's reading all the other speakers to 75db as set by ypao except the sub.
The short answer is don?t trust you phone mic that much. All the other speakers operate in a similar frequency range so it?s not surprising the phone will read the same level for each but the sub doesn?t that?s where the inaccuracy of your mic will show up. If you are looking cross check or improve ypao buy a calibrated mic.
 

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How to connect a bluetooth transmitter to my receiver?

I have a yamaha 667 receiver that I would like to connect a bluetooth transmitter to send sound to my bluetooth headphones.
Has anyone gotten this to work? It seems like the only sound out option is the headphone jack on the receiver (silent cinema), but If I plug the transmitter into that then the receiver audio is automatically muted, or?, if Its not muted then I can use that out put, but If that don't work is there any other outputs I can use?

I have a pair of sonys dolby surround headphones that I use independently but the bluetooth headset is for my 11 year old daughter, sometimes she likes to tag along on some late night movies watching when the others are sleeping :)
 

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looks like your receiver has pre-outs. use the L/R for the BT transmitter. however, if you are using the headphone jack, it will automatically shut off the main amps/ including the pre outs. you might try a splitter from the headphone jack...

your sony headphones have their own transmitter?

Bottom line: you will have to duplicate an output. either the headphones or the line out.

you'll have to get a distribution amp, something like this: (https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535821907&sr=1-2&keywords=AV+distribution+amp)

headphone jack ( 1/4" to stereo RCA adapter cable) > distribution amp > each transmitter... this would probably be best.
 

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Thanks, but why do I need to use a splitter if I use the L/R outout? The sony headphones is independent of the receiver. I think I read from some other forum member that they could not get sound on a bluetooth headphone using the L/R white red outputs, Isn't they analog and bluetooth digital?
 

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Hi. I have a Yamaha RX-V667 receiver. I also have a Vizio P55-F1 TV and an Xbox One X. I've managed to get the receiver to pass-through 4k 60 but not HDR. I understand this is because the AVR lacks HDCP 2.2 (or so I thought). To address this limitation I got a splitter that supposedly strips or downgrades the HDCP from 2.2. to 1.4. But even with this splitter in-between the Xbox and the 677 I'm still not able to get HDR. Is this some hardware limitation with the 677, I always thought that if the receiver could handle 4k 60 that it would have the bandwidth (i.e. HDMI 2.x ) to also pass-through HDR. Any thoughts? Thanks!
 

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Hi. I have a Yamaha RX-V667 receiver. I also have a Vizio P55-F1 TV and an Xbox One X. I've managed to get the receiver to pass-through 4k 60 but not HDR. I understand this is because the AVR lacks HDCP 2.2 (or so I thought). To address this limitation I got a splitter that supposedly strips or downgrades the HDCP from 2.2. to 1.4. But even with this splitter in-between the Xbox and the 677 I'm still not able to get HDR. Is this some hardware limitation with the 677, I always thought that if the receiver could handle 4k 60 that it would have the bandwidth (i.e. HDMI 2.x ) to also pass-through HDR. Any thoughts? Thanks!
You’re in the wrong topic thread, the 667 did not pass 4K as you describe.

Try posting this thread instead:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/1524316-yamaha-rx-v-77-owners-thread-2014-models-105.html
 

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If anybody wants the FWmod utility it's here:

You can change the wallpaper picture or any image in the GUI, and customize the startup message or any other front panel or GUI text strings.

Start by reading the included PDF. Ask if you have any questions.

Sorry to bring this thread back to life again but any chance you could reupload this? Takes me to a 'Generating download key' screen as if my IP has downloaded it too many times or something
 

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Sorry to bring this thread back to life again but any chance you could reupload this? Takes me to a 'Generating download key' screen as if my IP has downloaded it too many times or something

The latest version of FWmod is 1.1 which you can get from here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/c5mm3q7jbzkgipn/FWmod_v1.1.zip/file

If for some reason mediafire is not working for you I could upload it somewhere else this evening, just let me know.

It would also be interesting to hear from anyone who actually used custom firmware they generated with FWmod. It's been downloaded almost 400 times, but I've no idea how many of those people actually tried it.
 

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The latest version of FWmod is 1.1 which you can get from here:

If for some reason mediafire is not working for you I could upload it somewhere else this evening, just let me know.

It would also be interesting to hear from anyone who actually used custom firmware they generated with FWmod. It's been downloaded almost 400 times, but I've no idea how many of those people actually tried it.
Welp that's unfortunate

Turns out it's no good for my AVR. I have a HTR-6067 which is just a rebranded RX V677 which uses bin files for its firmware, not wav.
Was really hoping to replace that ugly piano/grey screen.

Might just buy a different one when the industry finally figures out HDR/HDMI/HDCP/ARC and gives me a GUI that doesn't look like something straight out of the 90s
 

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Too bad, but as far as I know no-one has customized the models that use bin files for firmware.

But have you tried the Yamaha AV Receiver App (works on any Android or Apple device)? You can pretty much control everything without looking at that ugly background. For music I just use the App and don't even turn the TV on.
 

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Hi All,


I just picked up a used HTR-6063 (Canadian model) of this receiver. I am replacing an RX-V579 for this purpose (moving that do a different system in the house).


The firmware version is 1.14 and I know there is an upgrade, but I would like some feedback before I attempt it - some things worked on the 579 that don't work correctly on this receiver and I am wondering if a firmware upgrade might fix it.



My setup is unique - I run the receiver for HT and music with separate speakers. Essentially for HT is is used as a bi-amped 5.1 system. For music I use my PMC-FB1s with the crossovers removed in 7.1 mode via HDMI PCM where the front channels drive the midrange driver and and the surround back channels drive the tweeter. The music is FLAC files pre-upsampled (with a ridiculously good filter) to 176.4/24 or 192/24 (depending on the source ). I have updated the foobar crossover plug-in and I'm using 8th order Linkwitz-Rily filter so generate the correct channels (and the driver sensitivity is taken care of as part of the with the tweeters -3.5 dB down). As well, I drive the sub channel with the below 40HZ freqs as well.


All of this worked on the 579 - I have to switch the speaker cables between the front speakers for HT and Music - but the results are great. The center and regular surrounds are always driven by the Yamaha directly and aren't present in the music 7.1 HDMI LPCM.



The HTR-6063 was interesting to me because it had pre-outs and I have some nice power amps sitting in a closet so I wanted to drive the front speakers with them. I knew before that there is no way to independently switch the amp/pre-outs on and off which would have been great as I wouldn't need to switch speaker cables, I could drive the HT from the Yahama and the music from the external amps. its fine though - I am OK with switching the cables (does firmware 2.05 have this capability?)



Before I hooked up the amps, I tried a test:


Running just like the 579 for music (with the 6063 amps in play), 7.1 normal with surrounds backs driving tweeters and fronts driving mid/low. Works in straight mode but in pure direct, the surround backs are not there at all. I tried 5.1 material in pure direct and the normal surround channels are definitely there in pure direct mode - this seems to be a bug as it works correctly on the 579, Can anyone with fw 2.05 and actual surround back speakers confirm they work in pure direct with 7.1 material?


The next test was to hook up the power amps to the front and surround back channels. In pure direct this works for music (and it was ridiculously good) - so the pre-outs are correctly present on surround back in pure direct mode even though the speaker outs are not. The downside here is when I switch back to HT by switching speakers and setting the yamaha to bi-amp - the surrounds back pre-out have no signal, unlike the amplified versions which match the fronts for bi-amping. Also curious with anyone with fw 2.05 if when in b-amp mode the surround back pre-outs match the fronts so you can externally bi-amp.



As it stands, I have stopped bi-amping the HT speakers (leaving one external amp off), and then switch only one cable for music (leaving the other cables permanently connected to the music speakers and turned on the second external amp in this case)



Since updating firmware on this model is such a pain - I would like to confirm if any of these issues are fixed in the latest firmware. The first issue is not an issue on the RX-V579 so it sounds like they have software that does the right thing...and yes I know this all sounds crazy - but removing the crossovers was a huge leap in quality - and I can change crossover points and sensitivities and use different drivers.


...[edit] I also found 2.06, 2.11, 2.12 firmwares - has anyone successfully tried these on a North American HTR-6063? Thanks!


...[edit] I don't know why I didn't think of it before but the fact that pure direct mode prevents the surround backs from working on the internal amps is actually a good bug for me, since when I listen to music it is with pure-direct and the pre-outs. This means I have my separate HT speakers connected to the surround back internal amp output, so when I listen to music there is no output, but I can switch to 5.1 bi-amp mode and not-pure-direct via the remote and and surround backs internal amp output is the same as the fronts. This means no more cable switching on speakers, and I can switch between setups using just the remote...
 

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Wow...I'm impressed 6-22-2010 to 10-14-2019...quite a run for these old birds. What with the variety of models out now-a-days. Still pump'n 7.2 thru mine and still strong as ever. Never gave gett'n a newer one a second thought.:cool:
 

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Turn table distortion

Good morning everyone,

I have a Yamaha RX-V667 amp with Onkyo speakers, I have recently purchased a record player (without pre-amp). when the record player is connected to the amp the records sounds distorted this is connected via a phono lead from the player to the amp. When I connect the record player to a Cambridge audio TV2 speaker with the same phono lead it sounds perfect. I know this is an Amp issue, I bought the amp second hand and everything else on the amp works fine, it's only the phono function that has the issue.

Does anyone have the answer please as it's driving me nuts, The aim was to sell the Cambridge speaker and just have the amp and surround sound.

Thank you in advance.
 

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Good morning everyone,

I have a Yamaha RX-V667 amp with Onkyo speakers, I have recently purchased a record player (without pre-amp). when the record player is connected to the amp the records sounds distorted this is connected via a phono lead from the player to the amp. When I connect the record player to a Cambridge audio TV2 speaker with the same phono lead it sounds perfect. I know this is an Amp issue, I bought the amp second hand and everything else on the amp works fine, it's only the phono function that has the issue.

Sounds like the turntable does have a pre-amp, otherwise you would have very low (if any) output on your TV2 speaker. Try using one of the other inputs on your yamaha receiver.
 
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