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I've read quite a few posts in this thread, and searched it a couple of ways without seeing anything about this issue...


Anyone getting shutdowns using this mobo ?


I've got an E7400 with stock HSF that I can't even load an OS because of random, QUICK shutdowns....


Tried it with a very robust ps, same thing, pulled memory and drives, same thing. It will shut down when in BIOS for less than 5 minutes...


Did I get a bad board ? Is the E7400 a poor match for this board ? I have access to other dual cord cpu's, but would prefer to use the E7400 if possible...


Is it temp related ? If so, how can I tell ? The HSF fan seems to be working properly and nothing seems all that hot...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by none74 /forum/post/16194213


I've read quite a few posts in this thread, and searched it a couple of ways without seeing anything about this issue...


Anyone getting shutdowns using this mobo ?


I've got an E7400 with stock HSF that I can't even load an OS because of random, QUICK shutdowns....


Tried it with a very robust ps, same thing, pulled memory and drives, same thing. It will shut down when in BIOS for less than 5 minutes...


Did I get a bad board ? Is the E7400 a poor match for this board ? I have access to other dual cord cpu's, but would prefer to use the E7400 if possible...


Is it temp related ? If so, how can I tell ? The HSF fan seems to be working properly and nothing seems all that hot...

I would have thought its a heat issue - possibly a badly fitting heatsink.


try going from cold into BIOS and then integrated peripherals then MCP hardware monitoring.


watch the temps. in BIOS I wouldn't expect it to go over 50C but it will let you see if it is overheating prior to shutdown.


other than that. no idea
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by opentoideas /forum/post/16194295


I would have thought its a heat issue - possibly a badly fitting heatsink.


try going from cold into BIOS and then integrated peripherals then MCP hardware monitoring.


watch the temps. in BIOS I wouldn't expect it to go over 50C but it will let you see if it is overheating prior to shutdown.


other than that. no idea

I'm fairly sure you nailed it first time.


I'm running MemTest right now, just to give it something to do since I don't have anything installed yet, and so far its working with no shutdowns.


I pulled the factory HS off of the GPU, found it had a TON of thermal compound, cleaned it all off and put an appropriate amount of Arctic Silver, but when I went to re-install it, I found that one of the plastic wire retainers on the cpu HSF was interfering with the GPU HS. I'm betting when I installed the cpu HSF, it put enough sideways pressure on the GPU HS to just lift it off of the chip.


I clipped off the plastic piece that was interfering and so far its remained powered up longer than it ever has before.


Thanks very much for the super quick reply to my question, btw, its really appreciated.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by none74 /forum/post/16194308


I'm fairly sure you nailed it first time.


I'm running MemTest right now, just to give it something to do since I don't have anything installed yet, and so far its working with no shutdowns.


I pulled the factory HS off of the GPU, found it had a TON of thermal compound, cleaned it all off and put an appropriate amount of Arctic Silver, but when I went to re-install it, I found that one of the plastic wire retainers on the cpu HSF was interfering with the GPU HS. I'm betting when I installed the cpu HSF, it put enough sideways pressure on the GPU HS to just lift it off of the chip.


I clipped off the plastic piece that was interfering and so far its remained powered up longer than it ever has before.


Thanks very much for the super quick reply to my question, btw, its really appreciated.


no problem, its a tight fit betwen the 2 heatsinks and realy easy to move them. the GPU heatsink is not at all well held in place.


good luck with the rest of the build - hopefully it will all be plain sailing from here on in
 

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The USB wake issue has always aggravated me, but I've had it in reverse - unless I disable the ability for my remote to wake the PC, it'll never properly sleep. Unfortunately I bought it long ago, before it was a known issue.


Anyways, since the stock USB headers are not powered, what about an addon card?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16815166001


Anyone try something like this?
 

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Here are some pics of the build...I just dumped them all up there, I will sort through them later. This is my first itx build ever and the first PC build in over 8 years, needless to say, it was fun getting my hands dirty again.


I am still trying to optimize media center so that the family can easily use the box, but so far I have been impressed with how easy its been pretty much out of the box. I haven't messed with using different decoders and only adjusted the screen resolution on the 9300 and it still is smooth with all my HD content (BR and HDTV).


I will put some more details up soon, but at least wanted to start sharing my experience with this MOBO. I have avoided all the USB/sleep issues since I also use this box to run my VoIP, so its cookin' all the time.


Pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/schisler...eat=directlink


Best,

NitDawg
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitdawg /forum/post/16195270


Here are some pics of the build...I just dumped them all up there, I will sort through them later. This is my first itx build ever and the first PC build in over 8 years, needless to say, it was fun getting my hands dirty again.


Best,

NitDawg

how do you find the cooling in there? looks like both fans are somewhat constricted.


I think I remember SPCR reviewing that case and being impressed by the cooling especially considering the restrictions.


I just use S1 for sleep, its not as efficient but it works without issue.
 

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I'll be honest, I'm a bit fuzzy with the temp monitoring proggies...speedfan averages 51 with heavy CPU load, CoreTemp is always about 5 degrees cooler on the reading (45 with >75% constant load)...any suggestions on Temp monitoring software is appreciated.


I have that 120 mm fan bringing air in to the case (only side ventilation is on that side where I put the fan) and it clears out the perforated back panel. Again, I'm getting re-acquainted with all this stuff, but I think my temps are in the clear thus far. This is with the Zalman fan (120 mm) at 'quiet' speed (with that inline resistor) and not changing any fan settings with the BIOS (silverstone NT07).
 

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I finished my HTPC build last night. Here are some pics from the completed build on my blog:
http://hardwarecomplex.wordpress.com/


Right now my temps are around 40C idling and it goes up to 55C on moderate load. I haven't tried anything intense like Orthos yet though. I also want to test out the gaming capabilities as well. It seems like it'll be a nice machine for a friend to pick up a coop game like Call of Duty World at War with.


I currently have Cyberlink PowerDVD for blu-ray playback and Media Player Classic Homecinema for everything else. I'm looking for some good media center software though (I have Vista Business and therefore no Windows Media Center) to organize all my files. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cman00 /forum/post/16185800


I've installed a PicoPsu 120, which dropped my idle wattage to 37 without speedstep enabled (9 watt drop) and my max wattage to 76 (also a 9 watt drop).

For cman or anyone else who has experience with Pico or Pico style PSU's...


I am really confused about these power supplies and their external bricks. I am wanting to build a rig around this Zotac board and am curious if I can make a decent all around rig with a discrete graphics card all in a relatively small footprint. I have read the power consumption numbers here and elsewhere but I don't understand the interplay between the power board and the external brick in the Pico style PSU's.


If I were to get one of the 200 watt Pico PSU's but could only get a 120 watt brick does that mean the rig really only has access to 120 watts? For that matter if I wanted to forgo the graphics card and just buy the newer Pico 150, is it similarly limited?


I was planning to build a case and would use this SeaSonic 300WTFX power supply if I have to but would prefer to use a Pico Style PSU and brick if I could.


Here is specifically what I was thinking.


Zotac board

C2D e7400 (or e8400 if I could get away with it)

Slim, slot load DVD or Blu-Ray drive

1 2.5" HDD

2 x 2GB of RAM

1 or possibly 2 120mm case fans

and this "soon" to be released Radeon 4750 which is supposedly going to only need the PCI-E slot for power


So let's say the max system draw without the graphics card is 90 to 100W's - the added card can only suck up another 75W max being that it is powered solely through the PCI-E slot, right? If so, I count 175W's max. Am I being a complete dope here or is that thinking sound? If so shouldn't one of the 200W Pico PSU's be able to handle the load?


Any insights or help any of you guys can give me would be much appreciated. Oh, and BTW this guys custom case build gave me the inspiration. You should really check it out. The look of his case wouldn't be to everyone's taste obviously but I thought the thing was very well thought out and put together.
 

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the DC power supplies like the Pico or the one in that build you linked to have a maximum rating like 200W. this means they can handle up to that power. the brick is what has to supply the power to the PSU and this is what determines the available power you have to work with.


so if you use a 200W Pico type PSU you can supply up to 200W to the board but it will depend on the rating of the brick as to how much you actually have to play with - eg. if you use a 120W brick with a 200W PSU you will only have 120W available.


one of the difficulties is in finding a brick with over 120W.


60W, 80W and 90W are easy to find. 120W are out there (I got mine on Ebay for £20) but I have not seen any higher. the 150W-350W DC-DC PSU's tend to be for use in a car where you have almost unlimited 12V power available.


I have got a 12V power supply that is rated up to 300W but it is horrendously inefficient (about 40-50% at 100W)


you will also need to make sure whatever you use is a full 24 pin as the Pico's are only 20 pin and with a bus powered graphics card you must provide those extra 4 pins of power


hope that helps
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by opentoideas /forum/post/16200664


hope that helps

It does help - immensely. That is exactly what I needed to know. Thank you very much.


However, now I am just disappointed. Oh well, we can't ask a piece of tech to do something it is incapable of doing. I suppose I will build this system for my father then and forgo the graphics card. A 120 or 150W Pico type should be able to handle it no problem. It is interesting to me that PicoPSU would even produce the "new" 150 model if they weren't going to supply a matching 150W brick. I guess they did it so they would have a 24 pin model? After all The PSU (not sure of the brand) that comes with that Morex T3500 case (that you found not so attractive
) is a 150W board with a 150W brick. So I guess there are at least 150W bricks out there to be had.


Anyway, thanks again for the help. Take care.
 

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did someone measure the hight of the components? I wonder how slim the case can be if i dont want to cut through heatsinks or build custom cooling solutions.

Would a 55mm or 60mm case be pushing it too far? I want to use the silverstone NT07 cpu cooler, its supposed to be 37mm high.
 

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Adnoto, what Opentoideas said is pretty spot on, but I'll add another couple of stipulations that, after some research, I believe to be true:


1. PicoPSUs are thermally limited. This means that you can run them near their max wattage, but if you do, you'll need to provide active cooling (fan) so that they don't get too warm. They can still throw off a good amount of heat when pushed. When I was running my 120 at about 85 watts, the little heatsinks (square metal yellow boxes) were getting somewhat warm (not quite as warm ast he IGP, but still warm).


2. A power brick rated at 120 max will provide 120 watts of power, but shouldn't for long periods of time. If you're going to be hitting that threshold often, then the brick may be too weak.


I think I remember reading about 200 watt bricks, but I don't remember where. SPCR forums may have some info about that.


That being said, does your dad really need an add-in vid card?
The whole point of this mobo is that it has a pretty good IGP to begin with.


(On a side note, after repasting the IGP with AS5, its temp has dropped 2 degrees C [57 -> 55] at idle. Hopefully it'll drop down some more as the AS5 breaks in.)


Now...to get a flat panel tv. Come on Sammy LED LCD's...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by micos99 /forum/post/16201213


did someone measure the hight of the components? I wonder how slim the case can be if i don't want to cut through heatsinks or build custom cooling solutions.

Would a 55mm or 60mm case be pushing it too far? I want to use the silverstone NT07 cpu cooler, its supposed to be 37mm high.

well my case is 65mm including 5mm of feet so it is possible.....


from the top of the CPU to the underside of the case is 47mm so the silversone will fit in the case with room to spare. BUT...


there is a big problem. these heatsinks are designed to draw air from directly above so unless the area above is open to ventilation you will have real problems. thats why I had to open up the case I used with all the holes.


all DC power supplies get hot, if you check out the Pico website there is a large derating of the system if used in a non ventilated case. as with all items the higher the power the higher the heat generated.


if you need a separate graphics card for gaming then you may be better with the PSU that comes with cases like the MI range recommended in the HD build thread.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by cman00 /forum/post/16202318


That being said, does your dad really need an add-in vid card?
The whole point of this mobo is that it has a pretty good IGP to begin with.

No, no. He doesn't need the card. The IGP would be more than adequate for him. I was just wondering if I could also build one for myself that could be my regular, everyday rig. I didn't really care about the IGP myself, only that the board had a PCI-E slot. For his purposes the IGP is fine.


I want to build one just to build one and my dad running a 3 year old, single core eMachines gives me a good enough reason. He needs* a new rig.


I will probably end up building an mATX rig for myself now. That probably makes more sense anyway.


*He says he doesn't need a new computer. What does he know??
 

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@opentoideas: thank you, that helps. If your build is just 47mm high, i should be fine



i'm still looking for the right case. I'm considering these 2 at the moment:

JCP MI 104 - 370x260x60 - ventilation holes from one side of the case to another.

Compucase 8K01BS - 268x318x70 - large area with ventilation holes above the mainboard area.


i dont think there will be heat issues.


both have a builtin 120w power supply, which should be more then enough for e5200+HD+ODD.
 

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Sometime after a reboot (XP 32 SP3) :

- Some USB ports does not work (specially the front ones)

- Already installed devices (USB devices and a Leatek TV card) are detected as new hardware and I have to install the drivers again.

It seems that I am not the only one with this problem (There is a post on the ZOTAC forum)

Very frustating, someone has an idea ?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by micos99 /forum/post/16205158


@opentoideas: thank you, that helps. If your build is just 47mm high, i should be fine



i'm still looking for the right case. I'm considering these 2 at the moment:

JCP MI 104 - 370x260x60 - ventilation holes from one side of the case to another.

Compucase 8K01BS - 268x318x70 - large area with ventilation holes above the mainboard area.


i dont think there will be heat issues.


both have a builtin 120w power supply, which should be more then enough for e5200+HD+ODD.

120W should be more than enough. with a 5200, 4Gb ,ODD and HDD I cant get over 65W


of those cases, unless you fancy a whole load of work, the compucase looks to have the needed ventilation above the CPU fan.


good luck with whatever you choose
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitdawg /forum/post/16195270


Here are some pics of the build...I just dumped them all up there, I will sort through them later. This is my first itx build ever and the first PC build in over 8 years, needless to say, it was fun getting my hands dirty again.


I am still trying to optimize media center so that the family can easily use the box, but so far I have been impressed with how easy its been pretty much out of the box. I haven't messed with using different decoders and only adjusted the screen resolution on the 9300 and it still is smooth with all my HD content (BR and HDTV).


I will put some more details up soon, but at least wanted to start sharing my experience with this MOBO. I have avoided all the USB/sleep issues since I also use this box to run my VoIP, so its cookin' all the time.


Pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/schisler...eat=directlink


Best,

NitDawg

I really like what your doing with that fan and moving the Hard drive. I have the same case and with the power supply fan pointing down at the cpu fan, it was over heating. What did you have to do to mount the hard drive? Also how is that Antec Basic working for you?
 
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