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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am now (I think) down to either the Samsung HL-R5067W 50" DLP or the Toshiba 52HMX94 52" DLP.


Anybody have a recommendation ? ? ?


I have Comcast cable with a HD box.


Am wondering about standard picture quality, HD pic quality, reliability etc.


Have looked at other sites and seen complaints about grainy picture on the Toshiba and wonder if it is an isolated occurence or not.


The general rating between the two seems about the same (if you throw out one really unhappy Toshiba customer... I have to wonder about the people who give 1 out a possible 10)


Anyway... any input is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So far... yes... I think.

I am being told that DLP is probably a bit more reliable and picture quality is similar. What do you think?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dckotwicki
So far... yes... I think.

I am being told that DLP is probably a bit more reliable and picture quality is similar. What do you think?
Reliable? I had a disaster story with DLP. It has a wheel in it that spins at 10,000 RPM, that alone smells like trouble.


I am moving to RP LCD.
 

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best thing to do is a search for Samsung DLP and you will see many many many threads concerning the well known audio delay (which still happens on the brand new HLR's), screen smudges and rainbows (all DLP's suffer from rainbows).
 

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IMO, all the new technologies have had their share of problems, and nobody can really say that one is more reliable than another. The sets leading the way in repairs are Sony LCDs, followed by DLPs, and then there are many, many DILAs with defective light engines. Fortunately, most sets really do work. Bottom line, IMO, choose your HDTV based on the features you want and based on which looks best to your eyes, rather than based on supposed reliability (there's not much anyone can do about the possibility of getting a defective set, which can happen with any brand and any technology). The best piece of advice I can give you, therefore, is to get an extended warranty, and then you don't have to worry about it. My 2-year-old Samsung DLP has worked perfectly, so I'm biased that way, but as long as you stick with a major brand and get a warranty, just sit back and enjoy.
 

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Originally Posted by Mark Oliver
all DLP's suffer from rainbows
One could just as easily say that all LCDs suffer from screen door effects! Most people do not see rainbows, and most people are not bothered by screen door effects at a normal viewing distances, but some people certainly are bothered by either, which is why one needs to view both technologies before deciding which way to go.
 

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Originally Posted by BillP
One could just as easily say that all LCDs suffer from screen door effects! Most people do not see rainbows, and most people are not bothered by screen door effects at a normal viewing distances, but some people certainly are bothered by either, which is why one needs to view both technologies before deciding which way to go.
Exactly, who said otherwise?
 

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Again, you will get lots of biased opinions to that question. There are many here who are very happy with their Samsung (myself included), many who are very happy with their Toshiba, and some who have had problems with either brand. That's par for the course. My advice is to look at both in several stores (since setup and feed can influence PQ big time) and go with whichever best meets your needs (there is no right or wrong answer).
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Oliver
Reliable? I had a disaster story with DLP. It has a wheel in it that spins at 10,000 RPM, that alone smells like trouble.


I am moving to RP LCD.
I had a disaster with 55" RP CRT...anyone of these sets can be a problem set. ;)
 

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Originally Posted by Mark Oliver
Also make sure whatever store you buy it from offers a 30 day return so you can decide if you like the set or not.
Excellent advice. I also believe in buying big ticket items like HDTVs locally, since it makes returns/repairs so much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for your reply... I must admit, I am still a bit confused.


I have a $100 deposit on the Toshiba. Don't like the fact that is is last years model. What is this years model # for the 50" - 52"?
 

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My HLR5667W is 3 weeks old now .Perfect picture,easy setup,price was great.Receives excellent HD on standard antenna mounted inside the roof.Broadcast towers are40 miles away. The set absolutely blows me away. An 11 on a scale of 1 to 10
 

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I too am somewhat torn between LCD and DLP. The Mits LCD had a great picture but is a bit too big. I enjoy the DLP picture just as much as the LCD but it seems that Samsung has the best experience in HDTVs and look the best in picture and style.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Oliver
Reliable? I had a disaster story with DLP. It has a wheel in it that spins at 10,000 RPM, that alone smells like trouble.
I've got to wonder... if that alone smells like trouble to you, do you refuse to drive a car? Car engines have a shaft in them that spins at thousands of RPM's... and... *gasp*... sometimes they even break down!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dckotwicki
Thanks for your reply... I must admit, I am still a bit confused.


I have a $100 deposit on the Toshiba. Don't like the fact that is is last years model. What is this years model # for the 50" - 52"?
This years is 52hmx95 I wouldn't get too hung up on the difference between last year and this. Last year's may be a better value with prices reduced to make room for new sets. I've viewed both and don't know that I'd call the difference mind blowing. Newer set is a bit brighter. If you plan to calibrate (ISF) the newer set is apparently more flexible.


As for the difference between the Tosh and Sammy, most obvious to me was that the Sammy had a softer image. This is a matter of personal preference. Sears has both sets and they are usually displayed almost next to each other. If you've not yet done so, I'd head over and do A/B comparison. Fiddle with the settings and see which you like best.


EDIT;


I should add that the difference I noted above was between HL-R5067w and 52HM95 which were right next to each other. I played with user adjustables and tried to get them equal for about 1/2 hour. Sharpness was at "0" on both sets.
 
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