[Dennis Moore]

Don't tell me I did it wrong, because I just put it all back together and hung it back up. That thing is incredibly difficult to ceiling mount by myself.

 

[Dennis Moore]

Technically that picture is of a 100 IRE field after I adjusted the Brightness/Contrast for clipping.

 

[JackB]

I took the cover off and put up the white test pattern like you advised. Then I adjusted the screws until HCFR looked like this:

Zombie,

is there a way to eyeball you dial adjustment and be accurate, more than it is presently?

 

[Dennis Moore]

Zombie,

is there a way to eyeball you dial adjustment and be accurate, more than it is presently?

Not in my experience.

 

[zombie10k]

I definitely would not try to eyeball it. a small change of any of the 3 dials and things can go south quickly without access to an accurate colorimeter.

 

[JackB]

I definitely would not try to eyeball it. a small change of any of the 3 dials and things can go south quickly without access to an accurate colorimeter.

I’m going to have an ISF guy come and calibrate my X790. Would he balk at doing the dial thing on the 750 as you have described the process? He Is very experienced.

 

[tnaik4]

I’m going to have an ISF guy come and calibrate my X790. Would he balk at doing the dial thing on the 750 as you have described the process? He Is very experienced.

Its not really hard specially for someone who is a pro calibrator, you can do it yourself though, but u need a meter to dial it perfectly.
Ive been trying to do it myslef for my Sim2 m150 but its extreemly hard to access that sensor on it so i just gave up, on a 750 its easier to access.

 

[zombie10k]

I’m going to have an ISF guy come and calibrate my X790. Would he balk at doing the dial thing on the 750 as you have described the process? He Is very experienced.

let the calibrator know these are not traditional RGB controls. They behave more like tint/hue controls and recommend a very small turn of each dial to get an understanding where the color shift is occurring while watching the results in real time using the colorimeter's output.

Once corrected and RGB gains in the menu are back at 0 0 0, it does make a big impact on the color shift when using the LED dimming.

.

 

[tnaik4]

let the calibrator know these are not traditional RGB controls. They behave more like tint/hue controls and recommend a very small turn of each dial to get an understanding where the color shift is occurring while watching the results in real time using the colorimeter's output.

Once corrected and RGB gains in the menu are back at 0 0 0, it does make a big impact on the color shift when using the LED dimming.

.

It completely disappeared after that fix ? No more color shifts with the dimming ?
Makes you wonder why keep it like that if its easily fixed.
I tried to do the same for my m150 but it requires disassembling the whole thing to access the sensor and i dont trust myself reassembling it correctly lol.

 

[zombie10k]

It completely disappeared after that fix ? No more color shifts with the dimming ?
Makes you wonder why keep it like that if its easily fixed.
I tried to do the same for my m150 but it requires disassembling the whole thing to access the sensor and i dont trust myself reassembling it correctly lol.

hi, I think it's going to vary from projector to projector depending on how they set it at the factory. This 750 had a very noticeable red shift even when not using the LED dimming. I could bring down the blue / green gains in the menu but it cost too much light output when it's already limited to begin with and also still had the shift with the dimming. I think it's a software bug and when corrected at the hardware level and the gains zero'd out it's now well behaved during the dimming.

maybe the same for the Sim2's and some just had a better factory setting? I don't see color shifts on this M50 during the dimming, it's almost perfect D65 out of the box with very small adjustments to the gains. Or perhaps they changed the software when they built the M150.

Do you have any specific scenes where you see it on the M150? I'd like to take a closer look.

 

[JackB]

Thanks guys for the thoughts. This color shifting may be also affected by my colorblind issue that I have posted about here:

Deuteranopia - Calibration Adjustments Necessary?

I would be interested in you opinions.

 

[Aztar35]

let the calibrator know these are not traditional RGB controls. They behave more like tint/hue controls and recommend a very small turn of each dial to get an understanding where the color shift is occurring while watching the results in real time using the colorimeter's output.

Once corrected and RGB gains in the menu are back at 0 0 0, it does make a big impact on the color shift when using the LED dimming.

I wanted to ask you, what is the color extension you're getting from your Mico and at what lumen output?

 

[zombie10k]

I wanted to ask you, what is the color extension you're getting from your Mico and at what lumen output?

hi, I just picked up a new i1Pro2 and going to do a full recal + 3D lut for the Mico 50. I'll post the info as soon as I have the results.

 

[tbase1]

I thinking about resetting my Mico 50, and redoing it for a demo........what's the best settings to show it off with just what's on board? Mind you it's going to be on a 103" dia. scope screen with a 1.1 gain.

 

[Dennis Moore]

I’m going to have an ISF guy come and calibrate my X790. Would he balk at doing the dial thing on the 750 as you have described the process? He Is very experienced.

Provided he can access it and has the right size flat-head screwdriver, he shouldn't have too much trouble? But like zombie says, it's not your typical controls. There seem to be threshholds that throw the entire balance way off once you pass them.

I'm not exactly sure how it works... but I just went back and redid it because the luminance levels weren't where I felt they should be. By carefully adjusted these little screws, I was able to raise the measured brightness back up by over 20%. The only advice I could give is to make sure you are doing very, very minor turns of each color, one at a time. Super minor turns, and then waiting several moments for it to adjust. On mine, each one seemed to have a point of no return, almost, where just one more tiny turn would send the balance way out in that direction. When I first did it, I turned the first one too far and the LEDs just shut off completely... but then turned back on once I turned it back.

I've labelled zombie's picture to show which screws control which color (at least, on mine). When looking at it from the same angle as the picture, counterclockwise increases the color and clockwise decreases it.

 

[JackB]

Provided he can access it and has the right size flat-head screwdriver, he shouldn't have too much trouble? But like zombie says, it's not your typical controls. There seem to be threshholds that throw the entire balance way off once you pass them.

I'm not exactly sure how it works... but I just went back and redid it because the luminance levels weren't where I felt they should be. By carefully adjusted these little screws, I was able to raise the measured brightness back up by over 20%. The only advice I could give is to make sure you are doing very, very minor turns of each color, one at a time. Super minor turns, and then waiting several moments for it to adjust. On mine, each one seemed to have a point of no return, almost, where just one more tiny turn would send the balance way out in that direction. When I first did it, I turned the first one too far and the LEDs just shut off completely... but then turned back on once I turned it back.

I've labelled zombie's picture to show which screws control which color (at least, on mine). When looking at it from the same angle as the picture, counterclockwise increases the color and clockwise decreases it.

I talked to the calibrator about this. His first thoughts were not very positive. He is a well known industry guy and teaches for ISF, so I think he is in tune with the technologies. I’m not sue I will actually have him work on the 750 as the picture is excellent, thanks to some suggestions by Brian, and the only issue is a possible perceived red shift after some time has elapsed viewing.

 

[Dennis Moore]

What were his thoughts that were not positive? Did he explain why he would not do it?

 

[Dennis Moore]

Like did he explain that I just ruined my projector, or?

 

[zombie10k]

Like did he explain that I just ruined my projector, or?

haha, you didn't ruin it, quite the opposite. You fixed a problem and tuning that sensor to D65 resolved a 10 year old issue. Look up any discussion on the 750 -- color shift with the LED dimming is usually mentioned. no solutions until I stumbled upon it earlier this year.

The calibrator can read the details provided in the thread, there is always opportunity to learn something new regardless of previous experience.

 

[zombie10k]

I thinking about resetting my Mico 50, and redoing it for a demo........what's the best settings to show it off with just what's on board? Mind you it's going to be on a 103" dia. scope screen with a 1.1 gain.

for SDR content, I would just set the gamma to 2.2, primaries to AUTO, white point to D65 and dynamic black on.