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JVC NX5 at 140", Denon X4200W (5.1.2) with Axiom Audio speakers + Bass Shakers
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Yes ur not breaking any laws, u buy the bluray disc, and ull have a bluray drive in ur pc, there are programs that u can rip the disc to ur drive so ull have easy access to it.
To play UHD or even BluRay or DVD with madVR does indeed break laws in the USA, but nobody cares.

You must circumvent the copy-protection on the disc in order to get the video into madVR and that is not allowed in the USA under the DMCA, even for personal use.

Just an FYI really.

 

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I guess then that if someone wanted to just play the bluray straight through the computer's disc drive, that can be done too?
Yes that can be done easily. You just need Redfox AnyDVD HD which decrypts the disc in the drive and presents an un-encrypted disc to the PC which can be played with any media player which supports the disc format, a few of which also support madVR. So no ripping of the disc necessary.
 

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To play UHD or even BluRay or DVD with madVR does indeed break laws in the USA, but nobody cares.

You must circumvent the copy-protection on the disc in order to get the video into madVR and that is not allowed in the USA under the DMCA, even for personal use.

Just an FYI really.

Oh didnt know its illegal in the states to buy the blu ray and rip it to ur media server, i see many members doing it here.
 

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It is absolutely worth it to use a HTPC and madVR.

Since bdht shared his madVR settings, I'll say this to anybody with a q750i who is using an HTPC... try turning the Adaptive Contrast on and then adjusting the levels in madVR.

Currently, I'm sending levels 18-242 with the Runco set to accept PC levels. If the Runco was set to accept Video levels, I would send it 20-234 or so. Some media requires an adjustment to the lower end, but it's pretty interesting how high you can jack it up. Boosting the lower end keeps the Adaptive Contrast from crushing everything into black and brightens the image a bit, and stopping the high end down just a tad helps keep the extreme whites from blowing out.

I guess I should say that I typically run the projector at 2.0 or 2.2, if needed, and that I am using a 3DLUT.

Anyway, the difference in picture quality between normal levels at either PC or Video settings is seriously extreme. I wish I knew more about how the Adaptive Contrast works... or what precise settings in the HDR functions of madVR controlled the peak white levels. Once you enable the Adaptive Contrast and adjust the lower end of the levels, the only problem is the extreme whites in certain scenes... which are annoying, but certainly worth the tradeoff because the overall image is so much more dynamic. If anybody can tell me exactly what to tweak in the new test builds of madVR to adjust those brightest parts of the image, I think I could maybe get this just perfect.
 

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Latest MadVR beta builds produces a stunning image with my m150 and correct settings.
I really think up to around 100inch 16:9 its extreemly hard to beat this projector, the whole picture is just so smooth with amazing shades of colours.

The images here are actually worse than the actual image on screen, it has so much depth and look 3d in alot of scenes, it looks plenty bright ( i m getting 65nits calibrated with that size )

@bdht i keep trying different settings, it actually addicting to keep seeing what u can improve still lol.
 

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Latest MadVR beta builds produces a stunning image with my m150 and correct settings.
I really think up to around 100inch 16:9 its extreemly hard to beat this projector, the whole picture is just so smooth with amazing shades of colours.

The images here are actually worse than the actual image on screen, it has so much depth and look 3d in alot of scenes, it looks plenty bright ( i m getting 65nits calibrated with that size )

@bdht i keep trying different settings, it actually addicting to keep seeing what u can improve still lol.
ya its shading ability is really something else. that cave photo goes way back with detail all the way back, i noticed that alot in hobbit uhd.

definitely gotta cap at 100-110". and depending on viewing angle because of 1080p too, regardless of how uniformly illuminated individual pixels are xD 2160p zonal 1500 lumens please.

where are you at with the settings? are you using fire tweaks?
 

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Oh didnt know its illegal in the states to buy the blu ray and rip it to ur media server, i see many members doing it here.
I think it is technically illegal in the UK too, but it is nigh on unenforceable and moreover why would anyone really care if you have bought a bluray/uhd bluray and want to rip it to a server?
Not those that P2P and illegally obtain their content mind, that is a different matter.
On a kind of related note:
Listen to that model of society and leading scientologist Mr Thomas Cruise laying into a couple of crew members on the MI:7 set recently about them supposedly flouting Covid safety protocols and how they may end up costing some of the thousands that work on movies their jobs.
Then read how his co star and EX scientologist says it was all a publicity stunt as he (as a scientologist) doesn't believe in illness and does not care about or for family values.
He sounded a little despotic if you ask me! "I care about you guys" he says and then threatens them with the sack.... laughable.
Tom Cruise's 'psychotic' Mission Impossible Covid rant was a 'Scientology publicity stunt', Leah Remini claims (thesun.co.uk)
 
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ya its shading ability is really something else. that cave photo goes way back with detail all the way back, i noticed that alot in hobbit uhd.

definitely gotta cap at 100-110". and depending on viewing angle because of 1080p too, regardless of how uniformly illuminated individual pixels are xD 2160p zonal 1500 lumens please.

where are you at with the settings? are you using fire tweaks?
I m using the "dont add peak nits" with 100dtn, highlight recovery at medium, and 55nits dpl, other stuff are off , and the desat option to my liking, i think desat 3 with 150 strength.
 
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I continue to be amazed with the images from the Runco LS-10. The lens is extremely sharp! The image is bright, sharp, accurate, and contrasty all at the same time. Moreso than any projector I've had. Its ConstantContrast feature works extremely well, and increases sequential contrast from 2828 to 16,071, a factor of about 5.7x. Reduces the black level from .04 nits to .007 nits. Very effective. It has another contrast feature, called Adaptive Contrast, which is very severe and I don't use it. The combination of extreme brightness coupled with the ConstantContrast performance makes for very enjoyable viewing. Here are a couple of screenshots from ColourSpace that shows the contrast with and without ConstantContrast being used. The improvement is quite striking. My LS10 was manufactured in late March of 2013, making it one of the last units made, and I expect it incorporates the latest of Planar's expertise in this area.

3077298
3077304
 

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I continue to be amazed with the images from the Runco LS-10. The lens is extremely sharp! The image is bright, sharp, accurate, and contrasty all at the same time. Moreso than any projector I've had. Its ConstantContrast feature works extremely well, and increases sequential contrast from 2828 to 16,071, a factor of about 5.7x. Reduces the black level from .04 nits to .007 nits. Very effective. It has another contrast feature, called Adaptive Contrast, which is very severe and I don't use it. The combination of extreme brightness coupled with the ConstantContrast performance makes for very enjoyable viewing. Here are a couple of screenshots from ColourSpace that shows the contrast with and without ConstantContrast being used. The improvement is quite striking. My LS10 was manufactured in late March of 2013, making it one of the last units made, and I expect it incorporates the latest of Planar's expertise in this area.

View attachment 3077298 View attachment 3077304
I think i found one for a good price and might add it to my collection, if its the same as the mico qualities but 3 times the light it will be a sight to behold with MadVR and 3dlut / Colorspace combination
 
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I think i found one for a good price and might add it to my collection, if its the same as the mico qualities but 3 times the light it will be a sight to behold with MadVR and 3dlut / Colorspace combination
id be very interested to hear if you find there to be differences in shading, especially near black, with the m150 vs 3chip. The m150 adjusts led power per frame to avoid near black luminance contouring, so I'd imagine they should look the same in terms of modulation. Aside from light output, will be interesting to hear color observations, as well as panel misconvergence, and the improved black level from the auto-iris.
 

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id be very interested to hear if you find there to be differences in shading, especially near black, with the m150 vs 3chip. The m150 adjusts led power per frame to avoid near black luminance contouring, so I'd imagine they should look the same in terms of modulation. Aside from light output, will be interesting to hear color observations, as well as panel misconvergence, and the improved black level from the auto-iris.
Yes if i get it ill definitely make comparisons, i suspect it ll be very close to the m150 but a lot brighter, we are talking difference between 60nits and 150nits on similar size screen, thats a huge difference, i m sure the m150 will have better colors specially with content that uses it, i m in love with the m150 picture at 65nits, imagine almost triple the brightness though, it ll have a lot of pop, by comparison with my jvc i m getting 75-80nits on 110inch while Bob got 130nits from the Ls10 on that size, that must look very bright while still having great contrast.
 

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Three negatives on my otherwise perfect LS-10. First, my brightness was 129 nits on my 110" screen when I put the new lamp in. Now, after 50 hours, it has dropped to 114 nits. Same screen, same meter, same software. This drop is to be expected with lamp based projectors, and we'll see if it flattens out or continues to drop. Second, convergence is not perfect. R and G are aligned well, but B is off by a fraction of a pixel. Fortunately, it is blue that is misaligned, and it is not visible at my seating distance, but it's definitely not as good as my nearly perfectly converged HT5000E. My LS10000 is also converged better. Third, the memory function doesn't appear to save the lamp power setting as the manual says it should. A minor inconvenience.
These are not major issues, but I want to make sure I'm not over-selling the LS-10. It is not perfect, but for my $500 investment, it's amazing!
 

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Three negatives on my otherwise perfect LS-10. First, my brightness was 129 nits on my 110" screen when I put the new lamp in. Now, after 50 hours, it has dropped to 114 nits. Same screen, same meter, same software. This drop is to be expected with lamp based projectors, and we'll see if it flattens out or continues to drop. Second, convergence is not perfect. R and G are aligned well, but B is off by a fraction of a pixel. Fortunately, it is blue that is misaligned, and it is not visible at my seating distance, but it's definitely not as good as my nearly perfectly converged HT5000E. My LS10000 is also converged better. Third, the memory function doesn't appear to save the lamp power setting as the manual says it should. A minor inconvenience.
These are not major issues, but I want to make sure I'm not over-selling the LS-10. It is not perfect, but for my $500 investment, it's amazing!
Its expected to lose 10% or so after the break in period of the bulb, it shouldnt lose any more light unless u put alot of hours on it.
Btw does it have low/high lamp mode ? Or just the iris to control the light, also hows the fan noise, on my jvc high lamp is very loud yet low is not audible.
 

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Its expected to lose 10% or so after the break in period of the bulb, it shouldnt lose any more light unless u put alot of hours on it.
Btw does it have low/high lamp mode ? Or just the iris to control the light, also hows the fan noise, on my jvc high lamp is very loud yet low is not audible.
It has normal and economy modes for lamp power. The figures I've been quoting are in normal mode. In economy mode, it now puts out 95 nits with 13,000 CR. Picture still looks incredible, but since bulb cost doesn't matter to me, I always use it in normal mode. There is no mechanical iris to reduce the light; wish it did. The projector is very quiet - even in normal mode. I'll take a noise measurement as soon as I can.
 

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It has normal and economy modes for lamp power. The figures I've been quoting are in normal mode. In economy mode, it now puts out 95 nits with 13,000 CR. Picture still looks incredible, but since bulb cost doesn't matter to me, I always use it in normal mode. There is no mechanical iris to reduce the light; wish it did. The projector is very quiet - even in normal mode. I'll take a noise measurement as soon as I can.
Good thing its not loud so its usuable, my jvc is very loud on high lamp, me too i dont care much since i only use like 600hours a years.
 

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What about the 110 to 120 range in a treated room on 1.0 screen?
110 i think yes but with a 1.3-1.4 gain screen or an A-lens, at 100inch the picture is the best, i do have a Navitar lens to push it to 110 and bigger, its good but a little dim with the benefit of better black level but less pop.
 
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What is your gamma setting? Try a higher power law gamma.
Great hint, thanks.

Changed from 2.2 to 2.5.
Much better now in direct comparison:
3078006

3078005


But still not perfect. Because of the low brightness I want to replace LEDs.

The LEDs in this projector (Wolf Cinema DCL-200 FD) are:
  • PT-120-R-C11
  • PT-120-G-C11
  • PT-120-B-C11
They are EOL.
I sent requests to more than five retailers. The parts are shown as "in stock" on their websites but unfortunately they all told me, they are not in stock...
If someone has an idea where else to get these parts. Let me know please.

From Luminus the right replacements are:
The maximum current is the same for both parts. The changes in voltage are minor.

What I don't know if it would give me the right color is the change in dominant wavelength:
  • Red: 624 nm --> 613 nm
  • Green: 528 nm --> 525 nm
  • Blue: 464 nm --> 460 nm
Is this something the color sensor would take care of?

Also the Red-LED has reversed polarity pin out.
But this could be solved by swapping red and black cables, right?
3078011

© 2009 www.cine4home.de
 

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Great hint, thanks.

Changed from 2.2 to 2.5.
Much better now in direct comparison:
View attachment 3078006
View attachment 3078005

But still not perfect. Because of the low brightness I want to replace LEDs.

The LEDs in this projector (Wolf Cinema DCL-200 FD) are:
  • PT-120-R-C11
  • PT-120-G-C11
  • PT-120-B-C11
They are EOL.
I sent requests to more than five retailers. The parts are shown as "in stock" on their websites but unfortunately they all told me, they are not in stock...
If someone has an idea where else to get these parts. Let me know please.

From Luminus the right replacements are:
The maximum current is the same for both parts. The changes in voltage are minor.

What I don't know if it would give me the right color is the change in dominant wavelength:
  • Red: 624 nm --> 613 nm
  • Green: 528 nm --> 525 nm
  • Blue: 464 nm --> 460 nm
Is this something the color sensor would take care of?

Also the Red-LED has reversed polarity pin out.
But this could be solved by swapping red and black cables, right?
View attachment 3078011
© 2009 www.cine4home.de
You are really getting into some nitty gritty there. Like it. Intrigued to see how your LED swap goes. IF you can get some that is! :)
 
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