You are never going to be happy, just get rid of your television. You sir, are better off not watching television at all.

 

I never really understood the attitude of people that seem to think that you must either love something entirely, or hate it.
That you can't be happy with a display despite being aware of its flaws, and hoping that they are improved upon.
Or that you shouldn't point out, or look for flaws at all, and just remain oblivious.
Things would not progress at all if we all just buried out heads in the sand and said that they are "good enough".

 

The problem is if they were setting brightness to where 17 and above flashes, then they have incorrectly set their brightness on this tv if they used a contrast of 80. It will not give you a perfectly black 0% slide. On this tv, 17 is the real 16, and must be set accordingly so only 18 and above flash. If you want to clip 1%, then 19 should be barely visible.

 

16 is 16 is 16! The EF is incapable of properly separating 16 & 17 and it is a display flaw. Once you get beyond that, the EF is still the best TV out there with the possible exception of the Panasonic. You'll never see the difference watching content on a single display.

 

"we thought that the LG was actually displaying them too brightly"

What's their reference here? You can think this or that, but you need some correct reference to know.

 

I stopped calibrating with 17 and above flashing, because that gives a too bright gamma in the dark grays. Movies black level is graded for gamma 2.4-2.6 and if you calibrate with 17 visible, you're going to see gray darkness more often than black.

 

How can these critical guys find a wife and live with her "forever" ?

 

This is one of those things that if you go looking for it or have a reference to compare against you will find it and won't unsee it. So if you aren't seeing it why go looking for it? I know what it looks like because I owned a VT30 at one point and those had it bad. If you want to see it go watch Half Blood Prince when Harry and Dumbledore go into the cave. If you have floating blacks then that scene will show it.

 

All I know is that I am ecstatic about my 65EF9500 except for the occasional poorly mastered content that I have to deal with. At least I though is was poorly mastered content but more and more I a, realizing it is actually specific scenes within content that otherwise seems perfect (perfect blacks).

I don't have another TV to compare with, but it had been occurring to me that I wonder what some of those same scenes would look like on my old Panasonic 65ZT60 or Vizio P70.

Then I ran into that HDTVTEST shootout from 2 months ago where they did a side-by-side comparison of the 65EF9500 against a ZT60 and the new Panasonic OLED and I saw this reference to 'floating blacks'.

I don't know what floating blacks are and I have no easy way to confirm that the content I am watching occcassioally gets impacted by them.

I do know that the poor blacks I am occasionally experiencing on Bluray content is a far bigger picture quality defect than any halo/bloom I have ever experienced on my P70 FALD LED/LCD, and I also know that defect is severe enough that if it is not in the content but being caused by the EF9500, it will quickly be exposed through shootouts against other flagship TVs (the Panasonic OLED being the best reference).

I also know I have enough respect for HDTVTEST and the methodology they bring to testing and comparing TVs that when they make mention of a defect with LG OLED TVs that has been corrected by Panasonic, I take that pretty seriously.

This issue is going to be hard to track down one way o the other without a comparison TV as it could be caused by content or the TV, so for now, I'm just going to start noting scenes with poor blacks more rigorously and checking whether those poor blacks are repeatable or not.

If they are not, it's pretty clear evidence that the TV is causing the issue (floating blacks) and the content is fine. If they are repeatable, hopefully I can eventually enlist an EF9500 owner who also has a good plasma display to do a quick head-to-head comparison on the same content/scene.

This is becoming an annoying-enough occurrence for me that I am surprised other EF9500 owners have not noticed it, but then again, I only watch in the dark and am calibrated accordingly, so even small increases in black level are very evident under my viewing conditions.

 

Floating blacks

Noticed it too but I only have about 30 hours on the tv thus far.

Settings are as 10k specced for the gamma 2.4 (have not WOW'd) it again. I'm just an average consumer; no calibration tools & techniques other than my eyes, a dark room and the WOW disk (and blue filter!).

Was watching Penny Dreadful on tv (Uverse) last night and I saw it quite a bit. Later watched a fair amount of Maleficent and it looked amazing.

Curiously no floating blacks when I watch Sin City - which looks out of this world good on this tv.

I still have 24 days to return it but from what Ive seen, I'm keeping it. Just upgraded my Netflix to 4K and will re-watch some content later this week.

 

Examples to test

Alright so if we want to do some comparisons let's do it! Maybe I'll get out my dslr camera at some point and try to capture what I'm talking about. Seems like a lot of work though

Background: I'm currently running gamma 2.4, brightness 52, oled 90, dynamic contrast low, noise reduction minium, sharp 0, wide color ON. Tru motion 2/10. All else default. These settings were specifically crafted to help make this content look proper on my 55" EF9500 set, while also helping with vignette.

Check out the movie Kristy on Netflix starting at the 29:20 minute mark.
There are several moments when she is going through the hall and the lights turn off and the movie appears to have an improperly graded black level - so the black scene will be elevated above my black bars. However, this is reduced if I crush 1 or 2% brightness - but still shows some minimal black elevation on my current settings (I find this acceptable).
Continue to Go all the way until she is done looking at a laptop and she gets intruded on by a chick in a hoody. Is the chick's face in the hoody grey or black? On 54 brightness at 2.4 gamma it would be grey, but at 52 brightness it looks normal. On bt1886 gamma, 47 brightness is required here.
There is a moment where the camera pans down to the box cutter she is holding - do you see a halo around the box cutter?
A few moments when the camera is looking at the lead character here the black floor suddenly changes a bit in the movie - probably the cinematographer's way to try and help draw out more detail. OR maybe my set's ****ed? lol

Another example - any scene at all in Oculus on netflix. Especially dark ones, or nearly dark ones. Check it out. Does it look like trash on your default settings? What if you just keep dropping the brightness till blacks are not grey - then does it look good throughout? I have to turn brightness down to 45!!! on 2.4gamma for this film to look correct, it looks great/fine at 45 brightness for me.

Blu Rays
Check out the beginning of the first Matrix - do you see crappy noise near black? With 52 brightness and 72 contrast it's okay on gamma 2.4. or 47 brightness on gamma 1886. There's a spot where the camera spins around trinity when she is jump kicking the dude - the brightness flashes/looks ****ed. I think it's content. Old content at that.
My biggest concerns here, where it might be a TV set issue/flaw, are the items near black that are grey toned. Example - the garage door behind the agents when the exit their vehicle and the wood slats behind Trinity when she briefly hides behind a pillar during the rooftop chase. These items seem to get crushed to black too quickly when I set my brightness to prevent the rest of the blacks in the movie from looking ****ed up. They look splotchy. Dynamic Contrast to low fixes these issues though...

Check out the Dark Knight Rises - the chapter with the icon of Bane standing with his arms folded in the sewer. IE the sewer battle between him and batman including the lead up to it with Catwoman and Batman in the subway. What do the grey walls look like here to you? Do the shadows or dark splotches on the wall get crushed where they look kinda crappy? Like oil painting splotchy? I can't run 54 brightness on this movie so I have to settle for 52 on gamma 2.4, the reason being, fades to black will show a faintly illuminated band at 54 brightness. This whole chapter has been the Bane to my existance - I want to know if those shadows and grey tones look messed up for other people. And I'm not talking about banding, that's not an issue - I'm talking about possibly a loss of ability to display brightness correctly at all near black.

One more streaming
The intro to the first episode of sense 8 on netflix in 4k. That looks noisy as hell to everyone right....?

 

Alright so if we want to do some comparisons let's do it! Maybe I'll get out my dslr camera at some point and try to capture what I'm talking about. Seems like a lot of work though

Background: I'm currently running gamma 2.4, brightness 52, oled 90, dynamic contrast low, noise reduction minium, sharp 0, wide color ON. Tru motion 2/10. All else default. These settings were specifically crafted to help make this content look proper on my 55" EF9500 set, while also helping with vignette.

Check out the movie Kristy on Netflix starting at the 29:20 minute mark.
There are several moments when she is going through the hall and the lights turn off and the movie appears to have an improperly graded black level - so the black scene will be elevated above my black bars. However, this is reduced if I crush 1 or 2% brightness - but still shows some minimal black elevation on my current settings (I find this acceptable).
Continue to Go all the way until she is done looking at a laptop and she gets intruded on by a chick in a hoody. Is the chick's face in the hoody grey or black? On 54 brightness at 2.4 gamma it would be grey, but at 52 brightness it looks normal. On bt1886 gamma, 47 brightness is required here.
There is a moment where the camera pans down to the box cutter she is holding - do you see a halo around the box cutter?
A few moments when the camera is looking at the lead character here the black floor suddenly changes a bit in the movie - probably the cinematographer's way to try and help draw out more detail. OR maybe my set's ****ed? lol

Another example - any scene at all in Oculus on netflix. Especially dark ones, or nearly dark ones. Check it out. Does it look like trash on your default settings? What if you just keep dropping the brightness till blacks are not grey - then does it look good throughout? I have to turn brightness down to 45!!! on 2.4gamma for this film to look correct, it looks great/fine at 45 brightness for me.

Blu Rays
Check out the beginning of the first Matrix - do you see crappy noise near black? With 52 brightness and 72 contrast it's okay on gamma 2.4. or 47 brightness on gamma 1886. There's a spot where the camera spins around trinity when she is jump kicking the dude - the brightness flashes/looks ****ed. I think it's content. Old content at that.
My biggest concerns here, where it might be a TV set issue/flaw, are the items near black that are grey toned. Example - the garage door behind the agents when the exit their vehicle and the wood slats behind Trinity when she briefly hides behind a pillar during the rooftop chase. These items seem to get crushed to black too quickly when I set my brightness to prevent the rest of the blacks in the movie from looking ****ed up. They look splotchy. Dynamic Contrast to low fixes these issues though...

Check out the Dark Knight Rises - the chapter with the icon of Bane standing with his arms folded in the sewer. IE the sewer battle between him and batman including the lead up to it with Catwoman and Batman in the subway. What do the grey walls look like here to you? Do the shadows or dark splotches on the wall get crushed where they look kinda crappy? Like oil painting splotchy? I can't run 54 brightness on this movie so I have to settle for 52 on gamma 2.4, the reason being, fades to black will show a faintly illuminated band at 54 brightness. This whole chapter has been the Bane to my existance - I want to know if those shadows and grey tones look messed up for other people. And I'm not talking about banding, that's not an issue - I'm talking about possibly a loss of ability to display brightness correctly at all near black.

One more streaming
The intro to the first episode of sense 8 on netflix in 4k. That looks noisy as hell to everyone right....?

This is fantastic - thanks.

I will check out Dark Knight Rises and The Matrix tonight.

Now all we need to do is find someone with a properly-calibrated reference plasma to check these same scenes.

If the scene looks correct on a plasma, it is floating blacks and not the content.

If the scene looks too bright on the plasma as well, it is mismastered content (in which case we don't really care and it should be taken off the list).

Once we have identified any consistent provable examples of floating blacks on the EF9500 OLEDs, I will update the lead post and hopefully we can nail down whether this is an issue impacting all OLEDs or only certain panels (another manufacturing defect) or only certain models (an engineering defect).

 

Hills Have Eyes 2 was on Comcast the other night and the lengthy dark cave / underground scenes caused my 9500 picture to look like blocky messy oil painting with flashing gray light similar to indirect light from flickering candle. That is the best way I can describe it. Is that floating blacks? Have seen it on dark scenes of other content too, but not all. Curious if this sounds like a bad panel. Or is it normal or partly poor content. I am using default isf1.

 

Yes I know what you are talking about (not that specific movie though), and I really think that's poorly mastered content. If you lower brightness, it would probably go away, and the rest of the movie would probably look better too. If it's just that one scene, the movie creators may have boosted the brightness up to help create more detail near black, but that's also bringing out more noise and removing perfect black on our panels. On top of that it's already heavily compressed and that really does not help with near black flashing when you have different colored/brightness blocks floating around.

 

You guys are overthinking this. Just go in the basic setup folder of the avshd calibration patterns.

Pull up black clipping and note where black is (should be 17 or 18 if you set brightness correctly). Now open the apl clipping file. Black will now be 19 or 20.

Black on these tv's changes based on the rest of the content on the screen, even with dynamic contrast off.

Now that you can easily see (and measure if you like), understand that there is nothing you can do about it.

If the floating blacks are really bothering you then you should refund and get a different tv.

 

Yep, I'm aware of this difference and I do think that I've become borderline obsessive over the content I watch. It's just difficult when some content can look so great and nearly flawless, especially when spending a long time adjusting settings - it gives that taste of perfection. I then become deflated when I pop in a movie like The Gift - which I just watched tonight (Blu Ray Rental From Netflix)- and the mastering is so jacked that I have to adjust brightness wayyy down for it to become tolerable. This is probably the ****ties looking new release I've viewed on this set yet - even after dropping brightness down. My concerns have been more about finding settings where I have to do the least amount of on-the-fly adjustments for most content to look good- which I've done, but there are many outliers. I've never felt the need to adjust for so much specific content on my previous plasma, but I believe the lack of perfect black allowed me to be more forgiving of mastering faults. But this need to adjust has also led me to be concerned that others may not have so much trouble.

I can tolerate some floating blacks, and I rarely see it in properly mastered content, but with certain scenes or certain movies looking so poor, I just wanted reassurance that it's not just my set exacerbating the issue and that others have trouble with this content as well. So that's my primary reason for posting these scenes and looking into this "issue". I'm more concerned with a possible personal set flaw than I am with a general technology weakness - because for many things this TV produces the best and most realistic image I've ever seen.

Hope that makes sense and I do appreciate the input you have been giving.

 

I have a love/hate relationship with mine also.

It's fine to blame "the content", but getting a good picture out of these tv's is much much harder than any other led or plasma I have seen. Even the free 4K lcd we all got renders a picture which is consistent across media types.

Im pretty sure the floating blacks is across all sets, I checked black clipping vs apl clipping on 3 of my sets and it was all the same un/fortunately.

 

Dynamic contrast is probably the closest you will come to a fix, but anything besides low (maybe medium with some willful ignorance) really messes up the picture imo.

 

Don't switch dynamic contrast on then off if you pause a movie. There is a bug where if you switch dynamic contrast on in a dark scene, and then back to off, the blacks actually become elevated. You will end up needing to stop the movie, switch hdmi ports, and then go back to the port you were watching the movie to get those blacks to return to normal. That happened on all 3 of my tv's.

If you have a brightness setting that allows 18 and above to flash, and then turn dynamic contrast on, 20 and above will flash. You can get better results by setting brightness where 20 and above flash, and then crank contrast up to near 100. It does not look anywhere a bad as dynamic contrast set to medium where skin tones get washed out and bright. You also eliminate floating blacks. Not that I recommend that, but it is an option if you want to eliminate floating blacks without looking as bad as dynamic contrast set to medium.

 

Measurements taken using my gamma 2.4 settings, brightness 53, no dynamic contrast.

 

Why have brightness set so low? What happens if you set so 18 flashes?

 

If nothing else, what the measurements you and I have done should make clear is that using p,use patterns to set brightness on one of these OLEDs is utterly meaningless - with an APL dependancy on visible brightness, the fact that 18 flashes within the pluge pattern says nothing about whether video level is actually visible or not (just read the HDTVTEST article - they were mystified by the fact that with Brightness set by pluge pattern, they still got floating blacks on content.

I will try a higher brightness setting of 56 (I am at 54 now) but want to complete testing with this calibration first since this is the calibration I use for content and I know it occasionally shows a very obvious (and objectionable) increase in black levels during scenes.

If you have time to try to recreate some of these video-level-versus 1%-to-5% APL measurements with HCFR, I'm eager to know if my panel has a problem or they all functions like this (which is my suspicion )

 

Yea those are big shifts when the black level rises, definitely would be obviously visible.

I wonder whether it's something about coarse voltage control, or whether it's some kind of rounding error introduced from either wb low settings, 5 ire setting, or brightness setting.

Might be worth resetting to factory default (or use cinema mode if you haven't used it yet) and take the same measurements.

 

I was thinking the same thing.

My suspicion is that whether is is a bug or by intent, that some of the Dynamic Contrast technology is still doing something even when it is set to OFF.

The 2% window dimming is clear evidence of some instability around that luminance level - do you see the same thing?

Before putting too much more time into this, I want to track down some specific examples of scenes in content that clearly look off (mismastered ) but that look fine on a reference display like a 65ZT60 or F8500 plasma (proving that it is not the content).

Do you understand how to use HCFR to make measurements at specific video levels? (User Defined color checker patterns).

My measurements were more fine-grained than yours - perhaps you could check for evidence of instability near video levels 23 and 24 at low APL levels (APL 3% to 6%).

I hesitate to lose my entire 20-pt calibration but I suppose I can reset the other Expert mode and use that to check factory defaults...

 

I have found an easy way to expose true 'floating blacks' on my 65EF9500 and would be interested in anyone else with an EF9500 checking for the same behavior.

A meter is not needed for this test, but Ted's Lightspace Disk and a pitch-black viewing environment are (can probably also be seen with AVSHD709 or HCFR generator, but Ted's disk makes the test easiest and is easiest to explain).

First, calibrarate for dark-room viewing. That means:

Dynamic Contrast OFF
Gamma 2.4
Contrast 80 (for example)
OLED Light 25 (for example)
Brightness using pluge pattern - 54 in my case

The base settings should be set for a brightness of 100-120cd/m2 (which B=80 and O=25 achieves).

Then use the pluge patterns to find the brightness setting where video level 18 is visible above black (and hopefully 16 is invisible from viewing distance). Since the resolution is screwed up near-black, also find the brightness settings 'one click up' (where 16 should be visible from viewing distance) and 'one click down' (where 18 should be invisible and either 19 or 20 is the first visible bar).

Once brightness has been set, use the near-black patterns of the Calman patterns.

These patterns include 10% windows at IRE of 100%, 0%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%.

In the dark, either let the patterns play through, or use the skip-forward button on the remote to cycle all the way to 5%.

Then use the 'skip-backward' button once (or twice, depending on your remote) to reverse the sequence and go 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%. 1%, 0.5%.

Viewing windows with the following IRE sequence will expose very interesting behavior with the black surround:

100%, 0%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, 1%, 0.5%.

If the surround is perfectly black through the sequence, try increasing Brightness by 'one-click' as defined above and try again, and if the surround is visibly above perfect black throughout the sequence, try decreasing brightness by 'one click' and try again.

I'm going to wait until I hear confirmation that there is another owner seeing something strange before I say more about the issue.

I know Buzz is not going to be back to his OLED for another few weeks, but if SS was able to try this test, that would be fantastic.

And between 10K and others who are on this thread, I've lost track of who still has an EF9500 and who has abandoned ship.

Again, no meter needed, just eyeballs in a dark room, and Ted's Disk makes this IRE sequence easiest to embody but the same can be approximated using the 'User Defined' Color Checker spreadsheet in HCFR...

One hint on he effect I am seeing: it makes the APL issue that has been exposed on Plasma (and that eventually caused an entirely different set of calibration technique and APL calibration patterns to be developed) look like child's play in comparison...

 

For me I can get the 0% to become elevated after cycling through 0 to 10% and then directly back to 0% by setting brightness to where 17 is faintly visible. When it is faintly visible, 0% slide is initially black as it should be. Cycle through the slide 1% at at time all the way up to 10%, and then go directly back to 0%. 0% is no longer completely black. It now has a faint grey color to it. The way I fix it is to set brightness to where 17 is faintly visible, then go into 2 point low settings and set red low to -1. 0% remains black. I'm not sure if this is the same issue you are discussing, but also lowering red low to -1 eliminates most of the artifacts on blu ray.

 

I never had the original, only commenting on the one currently available for download. The IRE patterns seem to be spread across several subdirectories.

 

One thing you could do is take the "normal" 3 images from this post - http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-d.../forum/139-display-calibration/1466036-calibrators-lets-talk-shadow-detail.html

Make a few copies of them and in ms paint make a thick border around them, maybe 3" wide of solid gray. Try looking at a slideshow of no border, 10% border, 20% border, 50% border.

That should show you the "real content" impact on shadow detail of varying apl level.

Alternatively, create a 3dlut using a 5% window and black background, and one using a 5% window with 20% linear apl background. Once you have those you can use a player like mpchc to take a screenshot with 3D lut off, on1, and on2. Viewing the images side by side on a reasonably well calibrated monitor will show you the degree of correction required by 3dlut to get the same picture given varying apl. This is of course, a time consuming process.

 

All of the extra work sounds like too much bother, but just checking those three pieces of content would be interesting - do we know what 3 Blurays those 3 scenes come from?

 

Not sure, it looks like casino royale, either despicable me or maybe the incredibles?, and maybe twilight zone... You can click the image to get the full size version.

 

HCFR includes some test patterns from Casino Royale that show the loss of shadow detail pretty effectively.

At the 'high' brightness setting that can cause floating blacks, the shadow detail such as lapels on a black coat are bately visible. On the 'low' brightness setting that avoids floating blacks, the near-black shadow detail is all crushed into black.

HCFR can be used as a pattern generator (and test image generator) without a meter and I believe there is a version for Mac (I use PC).

If anyone is interested in seeing this 'floating blacks or black crush' issue on the 65EF9500 for themselves, it is probably worth downloading HCFR (freeware here on the Calibration Forum).

I am going to be talking to Robert in the hope that he will include a proper shadow detail test in this year's VE Shootout...

My camera is not good enough to include a picture of this (iPhone) - the bright areas bloom and completely crush the blacks in the camera (but clearly visible by eyeball...).

 

Here are two screen shots from the same 3DLUT.
EF9500 set to 2.4, Lightspace set to BT.1886 to make the 3DLUT from the profile.

1st screen shot is with 0 APL.
2nd screen shot is with 25% APL, constant gray.

Look at the Y values for 0 and contrast ratio difference between 0 APL and 25% APL.

ss

 

I don't know Calman well, so it is a bit difficult for me to be sure, but here is my understand of your data and what it means:

You used your 3D LUT to almost perfectly calibrate to BT.1886 using Windows on a black background (0% APL). This results in the first set of data showing a near-zero black level and close adherence to BT.1886 so that target contrast is closely matched to actual contrast.

With that same table, you then did a sweep at 25% APL. At the higher APL level, the 0% black level was dramatically higher (0.02 FL) which resulted in targets for BT.1886 being raised as well, but the actual measurements from 5% on were close to their earlier values (meaning that the actual measurements were actually lower than where you would like them to be based on BT.1886 using that crappy black level).

I'd like to understand whether this interpretation of your data is correct and what you think it means.

I believe that if you now reverse the process, set brightness so that 0% black is actually close to 0 cd/m2 with a 25% APL, then calibrate to BT.1886 also with a 25% APL, the second set of data will look close to perfect, and if you then perform a sweep using 0% APL, I believe you will see that the contrast (target versus actual) data looks much closer and you will only be able to measure the difference in crushed blacks by characterizing near-black patterns (where this 0% APL sweep will show that an additional video level or two is crushed into black versus the 25% APL sweep).

Thanks for this effort and appreciate your assessment of what it means as far as best calibration methodology for these EF9500 OLEDs...

 

Thanks for doing that. .02 is still a very good black level. I noticed the 3D lut corrected the 5% Y output for both cases, which wasn't the case with my non 3dlut measurements. It seems then that if you want to avoid potentially losing shadow detail that a 3dlut is a must.

 

0.02 FL is an awful black level (0.07 cd/m2)

As a reference, my Vizio P70 with local dimming deactivated had a black level of 0.01 FL (0.03 cd/m2) with a peak brightness of 150 cd/m2 and with local dimming activated, it could easilly getbdown to levels 1/4 or even 1/8th of this level (0.004-0.008 cd/m2).

I don't see how a 3D LUT is going to help recover shadow detail - you either have to suffer from floating blacks or losing both video levels 17 and 18 into black...

 

The Y in xyY is nits not fl

 

Well that's a bit better then (factor of ~3) but doesn't change the overall message (not sure why I thought it was FL ).

A half-decent VA-based FALD LED/LCD like the 2015 Vizio M can get down way below this level with local dimming activated.

And more significantly, a perfect BT.1886 curve with a black level of 0 cd/m2 and a peak brightness of 150 cd/m2 has an ideal output for video level 21 (2.5%) of 0.0172%.

The use of the LUT may exacerbate the magnitude of this issue (which is why I am interested to see the outcome if SS calibrates using APL of 25% and then tests using APL of 0% .

 

Thanks for sharing the quote. That first step out of black is a relatively big one, and seems to be the root cause of the near black issues. Hopefully the 2016 models have a finer response.

 

Crushing shadows is just foolish. Why buy an expensive TV to crush all your shadows because the display cant handle them? Its stupid.
This is mine with 2% grey. Thats a solid color on my plasma. This is what it look like on my EG9100
Contrast 80
Brightness 54 (19 is just barely ... BARELY visible on black clip pattern)
gamma 2.4

 

Zzzzzzzz

 

audioduck you have the option to call LG and get a replacement if is still under LG warranty. unless you bought this from a non authorized dealer, but I think that as long is no over one year old ,you could still get a replacement.


why not just do that ?

 

I am doing that. Its going back to Best Buy this week. Thats not the point. I feel its important to out companies when they pass bad product to consumers. I am not a fanboy nor do I have any specific hate on for LG. But when you pass something like that panel thru quality control, then it deserves attention.

Also, have you contacted LG? Getting service from them is a full time job. I have my own work to do. I do not enjoy spending money and then dancing for the manufacturer to get what I paid for. Spending money means YOU do the work. If I do the work then you pay ME.