I sure most will agree ( not everyone)that you should buy the best you can afford and add another later if desired! Just makes for a less painful upgrade path!
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I'm just about to pull the plug and buy my first subwoofer. I have decided to get a BKE subwoofer based on the glowing reviews and comments I have seen on the internet. My dilemma is should i get a single monolith plus ff/df or maybe get a P12 300SB-PR to start with and if needed later on get another for a 5.2.2 atmos setup? The only thing that bothers me about the monolith plus is no auto power off function and not 100% which type would be best suited for me (ff or df). size of the monolith doesnt bother me, i would make it fit
My room setup is currently 4x4 meters upstairs with floorboards covered in carpet but will be moving to a similar size room next year with a concrete floor covered in carpet. I would say my usage is 40% movies, 10% music and 50% gaming
There is nowhere close by I can go to demo subs so any help or suggestions would be really appreciated
Of course nulls are not audible. They're the absence of sound. You can't "hear" a null. You only know about nulls when you hear the same content being played without the nulls and you hear the missing information. It's not surprising that no one has ever complained about missing notes in your system. The old expression: You don't know what you don't know... (is missing)... applies quite well here.One other important thing to consider when deciding between 1 large vs 2 small subs.
While a flat frequency response is a nice goal, the reality is that in normal listening, you are unlikely to hear dips and nulls unless they are severe (in width, not height). In my setup, the frequency response at the primary listening position is completely flat with no dips or nulls. All of the secondary listening positions have several peaks and valleys. I know this because I have checked it with REW, but I have never had a single person watch a movie and comment that certain frequencies were missing or louder than others. Instead, they are blown away by the system. Bass in most content is a complex combination of frequencies and narrow nulls really aren't audible, even if you know the nulls exist.
This is why many people recommend getting the single largest sub you can afford now. While you can seldom hear the occasional null in frequency response, you can absolutely hear the difference between a sub that is more powerful than another.
https://routledgetextbooks.com/textbooks/9781138921368/home-theatre.php Part 2, Subwoofer Options His book has a lot more information.The real problem is standing waves, which cause bass to boom at certain frequencies, to be absent at others, and to be different in different locations in the room. Equalizing a single subwoofer can improve the sound at the microphone location, but nowhere else. A single subwoofer has no ability to reduce seat-to-seat variations or remove peaks and nulls. Multiple subwoofers can do both, presenting an opportunity to attenuate resonances, alleviating the associated pesky peaks and nulls in the standing waves. Chapter 8, p. 215 describes the options for reducing the detrimental effects of room resonances on bass. Some solutions work only in rectangular rooms, reducing the number of active resonances, and creating areas of rooms within which seat-to-seat variations are reduced. In the most advanced solutions, the resonances and seat-to-seat variations are essentially absent. All of the most effective solutions involve multiple subwoofers and these are well explained in Chapter 8.
So if someone can afford to buy two of them off the bat, should they buy those.... or pause.... think for a moment..... and wonder why not buy a single subwoofer that costs as much as those two subs that was just about to be purchased?.... always buy the biggest and best single sub you can afford (unless of course you can afford two of them right off the bat)
I'm not saying you are wrong or that multiple subwoofers are a bad idea. In rectangular sealed rooms, they are almost a necessity to get a flat response.Bottom line, if the budget is fixed and no more will ever be spent on subs, then dual, smaller subs will generally sound better than a single, larger sub. OTOH, if the ability exists to buy a second sub down the road, then getting the single larger sub first is a good option with goal being to buy a second, (third and fourth+) down the road.
So if someone can afford to buy two of them off the bat, should they buy those.... or pause.... think for a moment..... and wonder why not buy a single subwoofer that costs as much as those two subs that was just about to be purchased?
When one adds a second identical *driver* to a system, one adds 3 dB of SPL acoustic power. When one *doubles the amplifier power*, one adds 3 dB of SPL acoustic power. When one adds a second, identical subwoofer, one adds a second driver and doubles the amplifier power, which adds 6 dB of SPL acoustic power being driven into the room.Lots of good advice from more knowledgeable people than I, but here is my two cents:
While the real answer is two large subs, I would go with one large sub vs. two smaller subs. My reasoning is dual subs give you ~ +3db over a single sub. The larger sub will likely be louder and play deeper than a smaller sub, and even after adding a second smaller sub, should still play deeper.
The OP is not looking for massive output. He's looking for high sound quality. Dual smaller subs, and the smoother and more consistent FR they can provide, will do a MUCH better job for him than a single larger sub.I'm after a sub which can handle small clear define details at low to medium volume, not bothered about it being boomy.would the monolith be able to do this or would i be better off with a p12 300sb?