Online cabinet design service?

Brett Hays said:

I had been hoping to find flat packs, but I have a built in entertainment center and I need a specific width and height to fit and the flat pack for Ultimax 15’s at PE is 1.5” too wide to fit.

So I need to make that up with depth, plus I wouldn’t mind having a ported cabinet(s) instead.

Is there anywhere online where I can tell them the driver I want to use and my space requirements and they can design me a cabinet with a detailed cut list, etc? I am handy enough with tools that I feel like I can build the cabinets, but I really don’t want to learn WinISD and all that...

I just need to build enclosures for two Dayton Ultimax 15’s with a max width of 18” and max height of 21”. The 3.0 cu ft can be made up from length where I have quite a bit of room to spare. If it were possible, I would actually like to go ported, however.

Anyone have pointers?


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This is a really handy Excel sheet that does a lot of math concerning the box and cut list for a slot ported cabinet - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-...202-new-modify-my-marty-excel-calculator.html

The biggest note with WinISD is it overestimates the port length by about 15%, use 85% of whatever it says the port length should be for a tune. If you have questions as you go, post them here

Cornering the UM15 and ported boxes, it really needs more volume to shine, I think 7 cuft is where it starts getting good for that subwoofer. Not knowing much about your goals I would also suggest looking into some of the pro subs, a lot of them are designed for higher output in smaller enclosures. Some of the pro subs offer higher xmax values for digging into lower frequencies.

if you can push the width by 0.05" or so to allow for the driver, this could be an option:



uses this driver:

https://www.parts-express.com/lavoce-saf18403-18-subwoofer-8-ohm--293-730

which is a medium excursion "crossover" driver. it has highish efficiency like a pro audio driver and medium excursion somewhere in between a pro audio driver and a home audio sub.

it would provide pretty good output in this enclosure.

max output vs the um 15 would look something roughly like this (limited to the 99 volts that a bridged 3000 can output)

it would look something like this. woofer with a port on it!



tuning would be right around 20Hz.

the driver is 8 ohm, so a pair could be run off the 3000 amp in bridged mode. you may need to employ the limiter on the amp depending on how hard you drive the subs.

if pushed too hard, the amp may power cycle. limiting Vp (peak voltage) to around 110-115 may be a safe starting point if required.

a protective high pass would be advised. 2nd order butterworth, 12db/oct, at 20Hz will keep driver excursion in check.

the 3000DSP/3000D amp has 50 volts output max per channel.

the um15 adn um18 are both either 1 or 4 ohm loads. so they would have to run 1 driver per channel at 4 ohms.

um15 is blue line in 4 cubic feet sealed per cab. 50 volts. 2 cabs, 2 pi space.

um18 is red line in 4 cubic feet sealed per cab. 50 volts. 2 cabs, 2 pi space.

the green is about 4.5 cubic feet ported and tuned to around 25hz (with 20hz high pass filter set) with the saf184.03 driver mentioned before. it is 8 ohm so two could be wired in parallel and the amp run in bridged mode. the green line shows the maximum output while limiting VA from the amp to about 1200 or so watts. that's about all it can do. you could EQ the response to be anything that you want so long as you don't exceed the green line. the behringer has dynamic eq that could allow for some change in the frequency response as the level increases in order to maximize mid-bass headroom without clipping the amp on the low end.



Another possibility could be to build relatively slim (perhaps 12-16" deep), but large volume enclosures and place them in the back or back sides of the room. that would allow you to get a lot more low end with the um drivers for pretty much no additional cost.

the orange line in the image below is the same um15 driver, same 50 volts, etc. but in 10 cubic footer cabs tuned to 18hz.



then, as further migration upstream, a couple of sealed cabs with cheap PA460 drivers could be put in 3-4 cubic foot cabs in the built-in center and crossed in around 50-60hz. that would allow increasing your crossover frequency quite a bit and give a lot more punch to your system. that would require picking up another amp though. a 1000D should be sufficient, but i always recommend the 3000D as it isn't that much more money and allows for quite bit more options.